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Old 10-02-2019, 03:38 PM   #476
Broke4speed
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Even the base 960 transmission is tough as nails. It's the same as the non-turbo MkIV supra boxes, and with the accumulator delete/line pressure increase, they hold 400+ft/lbs. The Aristo/Supra version has some extra clutches, and an extra solenoid for controlling the accumulator backfill as well as line pressure...but the volvo valve body can swap right in without issues if required.

Honestly though, considering people throw the aristo A341e transmissions away 'because auto', they're a CHEAP way to hold lots of power. Be sure it's tagged AW30-40xx on the side though, because there's a 5-speed version that sucks balls. It is essentially the same box, but it uses a mixup of O/D and 1st or 2nd gear to make a mid-gear that is supposed to help acceleration...but only helps transmissions explode. Also, the shifter rod mounts to the opposite side of the transmission to the 960 box, so some creativity will need to be employed to make it work with a volvo shifter.
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Old 10-02-2019, 04:36 PM   #477
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broke4speed View Post
Even the base 960 transmission is tough as nails. It's the same as the non-turbo MkIV supra boxes, and with the accumulator delete/line pressure increase, they hold 400+ft/lbs. The Aristo/Supra version has some extra clutches, and an extra solenoid for controlling the accumulator backfill as well as line pressure...but the volvo valve body can swap right in without issues if required.

Honestly though, considering people throw the aristo A341e transmissions away 'because auto', they're a CHEAP way to hold lots of power. Be sure it's tagged AW30-40xx on the side though, because there's a 5-speed version that sucks balls. It is essentially the same box, but it uses a mixup of O/D and 1st or 2nd gear to make a mid-gear that is supposed to help acceleration...but only helps transmissions explode. Also, the shifter rod mounts to the opposite side of the transmission to the 960 box, so some creativity will need to be employed to make it work with a volvo shifter.
I am hopeful that the Aristo trans swap is successful, as that would be a good source of stout transmissions for RWD whiteblock swaps.

Now for a dumb question- on your POI-shift setup, do you get engine braking in 1,2,3, and OD? I spent the weekend with RoadRacer4Life and he has a 245 with a 2jz/A341e and a handheld electric "shifter" (push buttons for up and downshift). His car, for some reason, only has engine braking in 3rd and OD. I'm wondering if theres another solenoid that needs to be connected beside the 3 shift solenoids or something else is missing.
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the only problem with that is what you define as cheap and fast
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Old 10-02-2019, 06:53 PM   #478
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Honestly, the stock AW30-40/A340 that the 960 comes with is good for 400tq if you bump up the line pressure. The aristo box is just extra candy .

I only have engine braking in OD and 3rd as well. It is due to the shifter position. If left in 'D', like mine is, that's just how the valve body operates. The only way to gain engine braking would be to come up with a way to use the shifter to row through the gears, instead of up/down buttons/stick/paddles. It would be pretty easy to do if you really wanted engine braking, but you'd still need buttons for O/D and lockup since the shifter only has three positions.
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Old 10-12-2019, 07:59 AM   #479
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I've been having some issues with my wheel setup. The chinabay 25mm adapters I shaved down to 15mm in the front have been causing some wobble. It's my fault, because I didn't take enough care when re-drilling the pockets for the stud 'heads' and some of them are crooked. Live and learn. So I then took my spare hubs to a local engineering/machine shop to get them redrilled to 5x114.3...and they totally f**ked them up. The machinist didn't read the instructions and drilled them wrong, then redrilled them AGAIN so I had hubs with 3 bolt patterns on them now. I was going to use thread-in studs so they also tapped the holes for me...AND THEY WERE NOT DONE STRAIGHT. I had two studs that were nearly 10* out of perpendicular with the hub! I re-tapped them myself, but now I had loose thread engagement so I had to tack weld them in. They wobbled like a drunk at any speeds over 60kph. F**K.

The lesson learned is ALWAYS get a receipt. It was a cash deal, so no paper trail, and they charged me $300 to do it. The shop rate is listed on the wall as $115 CAD/hour, so this idiot wasted three hours doing the job wrong twice. I'm very certain I won't be going back.

I really like the Jeep wheels, so I sucked it up and spent on 'proper' adapters. I figured I was already into this for way more than I wanted, so why not keep spending. I bought some 5x108 to 5x114.3 (15mm) adapters from Blox, which have a 63.3 hub bore and a 73.1 'wheel side' hubcentric lip. I will be boring them out to 65.1, and cutting down the lip to 71.5 at work, because I know that I can at least use the lathe properly. At the very least I now have a set of 4 adpaters and only need two, so I have two as backups if something goes wrong.

I have to say though, I'm REALLY impressed with the Blox stuff. They sent two types of lug nut (low profile and REALLY low profile) and some little rubber caps for the inner studs to keep from scratching the wheel surface when mounted to the adapter. Fingers crossed they fix my issues...

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Old 10-15-2019, 06:03 PM   #480
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The wheel saga is over. After boring the Blox adapters out to 65.1mm, and cutting the hubcentric lip down to 71.5mm...they're a perfect fit. I just got back from a test drive, and I'm calling it a win . There's still a weeeeeeeee bit of wobble, but at this point it could simply be a bit of an imbalance in the wheels, too-sensitive steering transmitting too much road 'noise', or rural roads. I'm good with it the way it is.

I might hit up a local show and shine this weekend and when I come back...the megasquirt is coming out ;).
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Old 10-31-2019, 01:11 PM   #481
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Ok, winter project time!

I'm going to be switching to Speeduino soon, and one of the companies that supports the system (DIY-EFI.co.uk) has come up with their own 'core' module that incorporates the Atmel processor from the Arduino Mega256, and all the main functions that the standard DIY Speeduino kit offers. It's seriously tiny, and I had to have it...because I am addicted to this stuff.

So, in order to use it, a daughterboard needs to be created. This module's main function is to be used in custom PnP projects, but since my 244 came carbed, there's no harness to adapt to. The MS2 harness is being pulled out and a new one will be made, which will plug into this new ecu. The daughterboard I made has a 42-pin TE Junior Power Timer connector and fits into a Hammond 1455N1202 case (the standard one that everyone uses). The stencil is mostly a joke between a buddy and I, but hey...I dig it. The bluetooth header is under the CORE4 module, and is set up to allow connection with a USB cable without unplugging the BT module.

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Old 11-02-2019, 06:18 PM   #482
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Ha, I just noticed that my thread title has changed slightly. Thank you, whoever you are . I have no idea how long it's been like that, but I'm grateful for the edit, lol.
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