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Old 10-08-2019, 10:29 PM   #1426
cosbySweater
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Do you need a oil cooler? Ive never seen mine get much higher then coolant temp
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Old 10-09-2019, 08:56 AM   #1427
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Probably overkill. Just looking for ways to keep it cool during and immediately after driving it hard.

It has less of an issue now that fall weather has arrived. And it never actually overheated, but the gauge does just keep going up the longer you thrash it, until I slow down and let it cool off again. And it was clearly heading for overheating when I got stopped on the interstate. But I suspect that's more fan airflow related.
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Old 10-11-2019, 12:17 PM   #1428
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And lol, pardon my derp on the oil cooler adapter:


Yeah... if you twist it around *that* way, it fits on. I just need to do a little something for my turbo oil supply - it currently just reaches straight down the the top of the turbo oil supply adapter now, and won't reach around to one of the small ports. And maybe I'll just run the lines up the back of the engine and along the driver's side of the engine compartment to the nose. There really wasn't a good way to get them there from below, with the header, crossover tube, steering shaft, tie-rod ends, sway bar, low control arm all vying to chew it up down there.
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Old 10-11-2019, 02:49 PM   #1429
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I have to admit, I'm pretty jealous of how integrated that block is.
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Old 10-11-2019, 02:54 PM   #1430
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If you wanted to get a little cute you can buy them with a thermostatic bypass:


Wouldn't work well if you wanted to put a remote filter in the line at some point.
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Old 10-11-2019, 04:08 PM   #1431
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And yeah, that is a neat feature on an LS engine. I'm sure it was done to simplify machining - they just drill two angled oil passageways into the pan to get from a to b, and from there back to c. Angles would be hard to do easily without them intersecting at the surface, so they jsut have a pretty simple plate that bolts on there to connect the two holes:


So you can easily just replace that plate and either tap into it just to check the temperature, or pressure, or get oil for a turbo, or in the most extreme case - to route 100% of the oil pump output through some other component like a cooler.
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Old 10-14-2019, 10:28 AM   #1432
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Got a 240 hood from a junkyard. They just rarely show up anymore. And I keep thinking I might want to chop up my hood by putting some heat extractor vents on it.



Scrubbed on it a little, turns out it was once red.

Last edited by JohnMc; 10-14-2019 at 11:04 AM..
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Old 10-14-2019, 10:53 AM   #1433
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Holy moly.
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Old 10-14-2019, 11:08 AM   #1434
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If I stick it on my car, I'll probably just paint it black.

With something sort of like this on both sides above the headers:
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Old 10-14-2019, 10:46 PM   #1435
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Wow. You really brought that hood back to life!!!
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Old 10-15-2019, 08:51 AM   #1436
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Holy elbow grease batman!
I’d run the mismatched red hood, but then again, I’m lazy. It might work well with the “classic” red of the rest of the car.
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Old 10-16-2019, 10:14 AM   #1437
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reminds me of an old Top Gear when James is doting on some junker car "Behold, the miracle of polish"
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Old 10-22-2019, 03:40 PM   #1438
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Now 4th gear is very gently popping out into neutral. Noticed that on my drive to work this morning.

The motor part is great... but so far the CD009 part has been a bit iffy. That's 4th (very occasionally) and 5th (more frequently) popping into neutral. It takes practically no pressure on the shifter to keep it in gear, but still, PITA. Grrrr...
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Old 10-22-2019, 04:00 PM   #1439
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Now 4th gear is very gently popping out into neutral. Noticed that on my drive to work this morning.

The motor part is great... but so far the CD009 part has been a bit iffy. That's 4th (very occasionally) and 5th (more frequently) popping into neutral. It takes practically no pressure on the shifter to keep it in gear, but still, PITA. Grrrr...
Could it be that the shifter relocator is not engaging the 4th and 5th gear completely on the shift rod?
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Old 10-22-2019, 04:04 PM   #1440
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Could it be that the shifter relocator is not engaging the 4th and 5th gear completely on the shift rod?
The way it is happening makes me think it's a bit more related to the shifter than anything in the trans itself. Worn transmissions sometimes pop out of gear with some modest degree of force. This seems very gentle.

I guess at some point I'll be doing arthroscopic surgery and pulling the shifter off the trans with it in the car to see if anything is noticeably out of whack inside there.

Maybe take the stock rubber shifter boot off just to make sure it's not gently tugging it out of gear.
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Old 10-22-2019, 04:11 PM   #1441
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Quote:
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The way it is happening makes me think it's a bit more related to the shifter than anything in the trans itself. Worn transmissions sometimes pop out of gear with some modest degree of force. This seems very gentle.

I guess at some point I'll be doing arthroscopic surgery and pulling the shifter off the trans with it in the car to see if anything is noticeably out of whack inside there.

Maybe take the stock rubber shifter boot off just to make sure it's not gently tugging it out of gear.
I too think that it's probably shifter related. 5th gear synchro are pretty common for these transmission but I've not heard much about them popping out of gears.
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Old 10-22-2019, 04:25 PM   #1442
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It almost doesn't feel like there's a detent keeping it in 5th at all. Which would coincide with it not being pushed far enough by the shifter leverl.

Looking back over my pics of the relocated shifter install - there's one spring loaded ball widget on a bracket that locks the lever forward and backward (1/3/5 and 2/4/6 gears). Originally, this just interacted with 2 1/2 slots on the shifter shaft (1/2 for a slight neutral detent). But that was cut and replaced by a machined metal piece with the 2 1/2 notches on the side that the shift lever interacts with.
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Old 10-22-2019, 04:28 PM   #1443
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Quote:
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It almost doesn't feel like there's a detent keeping it in 5th at all. Which would coincide with it not being pushed far enough by the shifter leverl.

Looking back over my pics of the relocated shifter install - there's one spring loaded ball widget on a bracket that locks the lever forward and backward (1/3/5 and 2/4/6 gears). Originally, this just interacted with 2 1/2 slots on the shifter shaft (1/2 for a slight neutral detent). But that was cut and replaced by a machined metal piece with the 2 1/2 notches on the side that the shift lever interacts with.
There is another guy with the same shifter here on TB... I wonder if he's having the same problem with his.
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Old 10-22-2019, 04:31 PM   #1444
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This guy:

https://forums.turbobricks.com/showt...ighlight=CD009
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Old 10-22-2019, 04:33 PM   #1445
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I also cracked the original plastic ball on the shifter lever, which made it all sorts of floppy. CBF Performance sent me a replacement, made of a different material. Presumably less brittle (I broke mine when I tightened the offset shifter arm - and I really wasn't gorilla-handing it).

I sort of get the impression that this has already loosened up a little bit, in about 2K miles of use.
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Old 10-24-2019, 10:08 AM   #1446
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Was having a little fun with it on the way home yesterday. Vrooom, vroom, vroom. Lol, 3rd and up is usable, it's a bit much in 1st and 2nd.

And then about 1/4 mile from home, some smoke started coming out from under the hood. WTF? Something on fire again? It's been quite a while since something caught fire.

Turns out it was just the dipstick popped out of the tube - and splattering a little oil onto the downpipe. Yeah, settle down, adrenalin. No fire.

I might need to rethink my crankcase ventilation. It seems to be fine *most* of the time, but I've had this happen twice now. I'm using only the two valve cover vents. One with a one-way valve leading to the intake (pressurized under boost), and the other venting into the air cleaner/turbo inlet. So off-boost, it can vent out of both, but under boost, one shuts off and all the crankcase vapors (which increase quite a bit under boost, I'm sure) have to go out the other.

This apparently leads to a bit of pressure buildup under extended bits of boost (I got on it for a few seconds in a row in 4th, lol, warp speed). Which pops out the dipstick. Which shoots my stress levels way up.

Maybe I'll get one of those LS6 valley covers with a vent on it.
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Old 10-24-2019, 10:17 AM   #1447
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hm. I don't have either vent connected to... well, anything. I should probably do something about that...

when I re-did everything for the turbo stuff, the dipstick was kind of an after thought, and the tube got bent a little to fit better, as a result the dipstick just about cannot come out on it's own. Food for thought ;)
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Old 10-24-2019, 10:33 AM   #1448
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I had to resort to making a new dipstick tube out of copper on mine - I tried bending the F-body tube I got enough to fit, and it ended up breaking. So I just got some copper tubing and shrank one end (to fit in the block) and stretched the other (to fit the dipstick) and that made it a whole lot easier to make the shape needed to avoid the motor mounts/starter/headers and pop up back by the firewall.

And I fear that if it held the pressure, it'd just get out some other way, probably blowing out past a seal. Maybe before I bother getting an LS6 valley cover I'll jsut unhook that manifold attached line and run it to the turbo inlet as well, so both of them can flow under boost.
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Old 10-24-2019, 11:27 AM   #1449
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Quote:
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I had to resort to making a new dipstick tube out of copper on mine - I tried bending the F-body tube I got enough to fit, and it ended up breaking. So I just got some copper tubing and shrank one end (to fit in the block) and stretched the other (to fit the dipstick) and that made it a whole lot easier to make the shape needed to avoid the motor mounts/starter/headers and pop up back by the firewall.

And I fear that if it held the pressure, it'd just get out some other way, probably blowing out past a seal. Maybe before I bother getting an LS6 valley cover I'll jsut unhook that manifold attached line and run it to the turbo inlet as well, so both of them can flow under boost.
I would route both into the turbo intake. You're going to make pressure crankcase regardless under boost, so you may as well make use of all that free top-end lubrication.
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Old 10-25-2019, 09:38 AM   #1450
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I just disconnected the breather line from the driver's side valve over to the throttle body (and plugged the TB side), and just left it laying open for now. And drove it to work. The dipstick didn't pop out. But I did get oil smoke wafting from under the hood.


It was just the oil in the downpipe wrap smoking off.
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