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Old 08-08-2019, 05:02 PM   #476
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Originally Posted by Sjeng View Post
What are your suspension mods at this point? Looks like you still have a lot of body roll.
Uhhh.. Firewall braces. That's it. Every bushing is 37 years old. There's nothing wrong with the suspension and I've got more important things to fix/improve right now. Although it is gonna need strut mounts soon.

I do have an IPD 25mm drop swaybar set but the front one interferes with the skid tray. Maybe someone with a V8 or a diesel wants to trade for a normal 25mm bar?

EDIT: I'm reluctant to ditch the M46 because I just got the speedo working and swapping to something better would cost money. I think I'm just gonna try and remember to go easy on third..
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Old 08-10-2019, 12:06 AM   #477
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I'm really starting to hate these things..

Cobbled my pile of transmission trash into one mostly functional M46 and installed it. Only problem is a fairly wasted first gear synchro. Just gotta remember not to bang third..

Also, last week my radiator fan fuse committed suicide. I thought these things were supposed to prevent fires.



I'm having a problem with boost spikes when the turbo spools. With it set to 16psi it'll spike to nearly 20 before settling back down. Cleaned out my boost controller which did nothing. Guess I'll take the wastegate actuator apart again.
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Old 08-23-2019, 10:18 PM   #478
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Transmission #4 is installed. Came from a diesel 240, no idea now many miles are on it, and it works perfectly. Overdrive engaged at 20mph no problem. I put in some brand new shifter parts and a knob so there's almost no slop at all now. Shifts like butter. I hope this one lasts..

I think I'm gonna rebuild one of my overdrives and stick it onto the aluminum M46 I also got, just as a backup. The overdrive on the back of transmission #3 failed about 550mi into a 600mi trip. Might be because I kept using a lead foot instead of turning it off to accelerate, since it was kinda sticky once it got hot.. Also the issue with it banging itself out of first gear under any acceleration.


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Old 08-23-2019, 10:52 PM   #479
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Transmission #4 is installed. Came from a diesel 240, no idea now many miles are on it, and it works perfectly. Overdrive engaged at 20mph no problem. I put in some brand new shifter parts and a knob so there's almost no slop at all now. Shifts like butter. I hope this one lasts..
Glad to hear it's working well!

Start gathering stuff for a t5 swap- its definetly worth the $$
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Old 09-12-2019, 08:44 PM   #480
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Is it possible a missing bell housing dowel pin would cause my first gear shudder? It fell out like two years ago.

I got new clips for the windshield bezel and managed to crack my windshield trying to whack one into place.. I guess I'll get a newer style windshield if the crack grows. I would've just ignored it completely but the loose bezel was making a really annoying noise on the highway.




Also finally put in a windshield washer. I didn't feel like trying to figure out how to mount a tiny tank in the engine bay so I used the original diesel tank in the trunk.



I went to Thompson today. First session the power steering upchucked some fluid, second session the rad fan fuse blew and it got a lil hot, third session I was getting the hang of it and actually passing some people. Then the exhaust broke. Turbo stayed put tho. Brakes were smoky hot after 20 minutes but I never lost the pedal.





This catch can was about half full this morning, which took about 1500mi or so on the street.

Suspension stuff is next for the car. I'm still working on stripping down my locker axle, gotta order parts..




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Old 09-13-2019, 12:02 PM   #481
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First gear shudder is entirely due to your driveline angles being off, and is exacerbated by soft motor and carrier bearing mounts.
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My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
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Old 09-13-2019, 12:10 PM   #482
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First gear shudder is entirely due to your driveline angles being off, and is exacerbated by soft motor and carrier bearing mounts.
I had the same issue when my torque rod bushings were nonexistent, which throws off angles.
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Old 09-18-2019, 04:39 PM   #483
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First gear shudder is entirely due to your driveline angles being off, and is exacerbated by soft motor and carrier bearing mounts.
My torque rod bushings and TABs are wrecked, but they were fine a few months ago and it's been shuddering in first ever since I swapped the M47 for an M46 in the wagon, which had all new bushings. You're probably right but I'm still not sure what it could be, gonna wait until after I get the axle swapped out before I start poking.

Anyway, I welded a center hanger onto my exhaust to hold up the (far too large) flexy bit, to keep it from hanging down and looking ugly, and also to take some weight off the downpipe so hopefully it doesn't break. The weld that broke at Thompson had like no penetration, so I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did. Also wrapped the section that's right up by the gas tank.



Speaking of Thompson, the day after the event (after I welded the downpipe back together) it was running really weird. It was fine pooting around but in boost it was just a dog. Took the distributor cap off and the problem was pretty evident.



Also the powersteering cap had something wrong with it, it wouldn't stay tight. Turns out an old style cap fits just fine.






I stuck my fake gopro in the engine bay cause I wanted to see the turbo glowing, but the battery died immediately and the audio is terrible. Oh well. I'm surprised how much it still moves around with the torque rod.



EDIT: Oh yeah, and the manifold to turbo gasket blew out again. So I got rid of it. Doesn't leak.

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Old 09-19-2019, 07:32 PM   #484
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Cool video. Sounds crazy lol
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Old 10-11-2019, 11:03 PM   #485
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I added an itty bitty glasspack. This let me change the angle of the exhaust a bit so it wouldn't rattle against the spring, which is an issue I've had since swapping the exhaust from the wagon, and it killed the droning I was getting around 3k.



I also did the front brakes. New caliper seals, steel lines, OEM pads, Brembo rotors. I managed to get the lines off the drivers side but it was a huge pain. On the passenger side I went right for the angle grinder, which was much quicker.

They bite better now and there's no more warpage, but the pedal feels the same. I dunno if this is cause I still have old rubber hoses in the back or if there's still a bit of air hiding in the system. I haven't had a completely solid pedal in this car since I boiled the brakes the first time I went to Palmer. Also it seems the rear drivers tire is rubbing on the body. I guess that's just the bushings.





Got all the flaky rust off the axle and POR15'd it, hopefully I'll have the ability to do 11s by next month. The parking brake system was so crusty the shoes fell off one side, which explains why it quit working. And the funny noise.



Also my brother bought a cheap V70R AWD that's no longer AWD.


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Old 10-11-2019, 11:05 PM   #486
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I would definitely do the rear brakes hoses too and then proceed to bleed the brakes 3-4 times.
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Old 10-11-2019, 11:07 PM   #487
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I would definitely do the rear brakes hoses too and then proceed to bleed the brakes 3-4 times.
Picture looks like new braided steel lines.

Edit: woops those are the fronts.
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Old 10-16-2019, 11:09 PM   #488
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I have no idea how to finagle this doohickey.

MS2 v3.0 set up for LH2.4 use. Plan is to figure out how to set it up for 2.2 and make a plug and play harness so I can drive with the stock ecus while I learn how to megasquirt. I don't need a proper TPS do I?
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Old 10-17-2019, 12:05 PM   #489
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I have no idea how to finagle this doohickey.

MS2 v3.0 set up for LH2.4 use. Plan is to figure out how to set it up for 2.2 and make a plug and play harness so I can drive with the stock ecus while I learn how to megasquirt. I don't need a proper TPS do I?
Are you running speed density? IAT?
If you're going to spend the time to convert, you may as well spend the $50 on the Yoshifab components to get a real TPS.
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Old 10-17-2019, 12:28 PM   #490
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Are you running speed density? IAT?
If you're going to spend the time to convert, you may as well spend the $50 on the Yoshifab components to get a real TPS.
I think I'm gonna try and get it working with just MAP and IAT but I'm still reading the manuals and deciding how I'm gonna go at it.

I gave it 12v but it wouldn't communicate because I don't have the right serial cord. So I ordered one of those.
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Old 10-19-2019, 12:16 AM   #491
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Making progress. I stared at wiring diagrams for awhile, made these connectors, did what the DIYautotune article told me to do, and gave it a try. I got it communicating with my laptop and pushed some random configuration buttons. Then I turned the key and the on-screen tachometer stayed at 0. Turns out I Kentucky fried the hall sensor. I put in a spare distributor, swapped around the power and ground wires going to it on the EZK jumper thingy, and now it shows 200rpm on screen when I crank it. Next is to figure out why it doesn't trigger the fuel pump..




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Old 10-19-2019, 09:10 AM   #492
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Busy man.
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Old 10-19-2019, 11:32 AM   #493
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You're gonna need a t5 really soon once you get a 1/2 decent tune in that bitch.
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Old 10-19-2019, 04:10 PM   #494
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Hehehe.

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Old 10-21-2019, 10:48 PM   #495
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I drove around on MS a couple times. I got the idle AFRs pretty good, but it seems to be misfiring at idle. Dunno what's up with that. Also I gotta figure out how to get the IAC to work with this thing, not having that is really annoying. I can't find a whole lotta info on getting a 3 wire IAC to work. I gave it an intake temp sensor and wideband signal, still need IAC, knock, and MAF. My thinking is that MAF will get me good throttle response without a TPS.

Needs some real tuning work too. Cold starts are awful and it runs way too rich in boost. I guesstimated the spark table and the AFR table, then I drove for a little bit with autotune running which helped a lot.

Also for some reason spark cut quit working.. It was the first thing I played with when I got it running, but now when I turn it on nothing happens.




I tried JB welding the IAT bung at first. Didn't work.
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Old 10-22-2019, 09:49 AM   #496
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I drove around on MS a couple times. I got the idle AFRs pretty good, but it seems to be misfiring at idle. Dunno what's up with that. Also I gotta figure out how to get the IAC to work with this thing, not having that is really annoying. I can't find a whole lotta info on getting a 3 wire IAC to work. I gave it an intake temp sensor and wideband signal, still need IAC, knock, and MAF. My thinking is that MAF will get me good throttle response without a TPS.

Needs some real tuning work too. Cold starts are awful and it runs way too rich in boost. I guesstimated the spark table and the AFR table, then I drove for a little bit with autotune running which helped a lot.

Also for some reason spark cut quit working.. It was the first thing I played with when I got it running, but now when I turn it on nothing happens.

I tried JB welding the IAT bung at first. Didn't work.
PM Kenny (linuxman51) with all your specifics and info you have. He can probably get you sorted in like 10 minutes (hopefully).
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Old 10-22-2019, 09:59 AM   #497
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I wouldn't spend too much time chasing your tail on the knock sensor.
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Old 10-22-2019, 02:18 PM   #498
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MAF is wired in and working. Throttle response is sooooo much better now. I logged for a little bit, hit 120% duty cycle at like 14psi. Intake temp stayed at about 60f while I was moving.



Full size pic
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Old 10-23-2019, 05:42 PM   #499
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I wouldn't spend too much time chasing your tail on the knock sensor.
Do you remember that time I completely destroyed my engine because I couldn't hear it knocking? I need a knock sensor. But, actually, it doesn't matter cause knocksense still works without anything connected to the sensor on the ICU plug. Didn't think that would be the case.

I spent a day working on the MAP VE map thingy but it was still kinda gutless and I was getting really bad spark blowout at around 10psi. Turns out my tachometer and ignition outputs were switched around. Much better now.

Here's where I'm at:




Note the 160% duty cycle. I still don't know what I'm doing, but now I can actually do wot pulls without it completely falling on its face which is a vast improvement over yesterday.
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Old 10-26-2019, 10:30 PM   #500
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I basically started over with my fuel tuning. I made a new tune that was MAF only and worked the MAF curve into something that actually works, then I added speed density as secondary for fine tuning.

It runs pretty damn good now. If I stab the gas pedal above 2k it doesn't go lean at all. Main problem, not a huge one, is that if I give it too much gas too quickly off idle it'll go dead lean until I lift my foot. Still needs work but I'm getting there. I tried raising the rev limiter, just because, but it pings hard (I can hear it) as soon as it crosses 6000rpm no matter how much timing I pull out. Guess my rev limiter is staying at 6k.

Gas mileage has suffered slightly.. 11.3mpg last tank. On LH2.2 I got around 16-18mpg with my best tank being just over 20. (Actual numbers are slightly higher cause I still have the wrong speedo gear, but whatever)

I saw people in some megasquirt threads saying to just use the base idle screw instead of making the IAC work. I don't know what's wrong with those people, not having a functional IAC was easily the most annoying thing about the car. I replaced Q4 with a transistor, threw a diode in there somewhere, and connected pin 3 of the IAC to ground through a fat resistor, which effectively turns it into a two wire PWM IAC. Works like a charm.





Also, just for funsies, I loaded my map only tune and took off the intake. Ignore all the blowby.

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