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Old 02-01-2012, 12:51 AM   #51
klr142
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Definitely looking spiffy!

Does it have stock springs in the back and lowering springs in the front, or? The rear looks stock height to me.
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Old 02-01-2012, 08:58 PM   #52
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It just looks that way because volvos are so tall. It has IPD/tme black lowering springs on it with one coil off the front. It is much lower then stock. I do need to pick up a set of coilovers for it though. It needs blower motor ($250) then new front and rear glass ($250) first. I'm hoping to have it looking awesome for IPD in may.
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Old 02-02-2012, 11:23 PM   #53
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I drove the car home from work today, seems like a bi-monthly tradition. Observences:
1. I can't see out of the windshield at all, its chipped really bad
2. the reflective parts on the mirrors are only there in spirit
3. alternator isn't charging as much as it's supposed to. new battery, yet volt gauge doesn't touch half-way
4. something in the back of the car vibrates and rattles all the time really loud
5. that Tiny, thin GLT steering wheel needs to be replaced with a thick sparco one, it's hard to get a good grip on.
6. I need new foam or tan cloth race seats, OEM 240 seats are garbage for support, I might as well be sitting on a beanbag chair
7. My 850GLT feels faster and more stable
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Old 02-04-2012, 10:25 PM   #54
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Since I had an unexpected day off and the weather was nice, I decided to install the skinny bumpers that have been in my garage for 4 years!


note that there are a bunch of bumpers, I was at a junkyard a couple years ago and forgot that I already had a set, i pulled them apart and made a nice pair. All remaining bumpers and the original bumpers from Lucifer got thrown in the dumpster.


rear fits nice, there is about 1/2" of rubber in the trim that I need to cut off to make it look nice, no way for the sides to be attached, the mounts are completely different from the big bumpers


I forgot to take a picture of the front while it was off, these sides fit nicely, it needs a 1/4" metal spacer on the mounts though because they are pulling the fenders out a little and making the fender liners not fit nicely. The tow hooks are different between the square headlight and TV lights, the old style hook doesn't fit behind the cover. I'll go look in the junkyard to see if i can get the flush newer style so I can put the cover back on.

I think the lips are a little different with the 86+ bumpers, the lower opening is a little different so the air diffuser for the intercooler doesn't fit nicely in the groves. You can cut a 1/2" by 1" notch in the diffuser to make it fit, but I'm going to try and do something out of metal.

The Numbers:
I did these bumpers with a scale next to me to make record of the differences.
Skinny front w/ shocks: 35#
Commando front w/ shocks: 45#

Skinny rear w/ shocks: 30#
Commando rear w/ shock: 57#

The shocks are 5# each and I had about a pound of extra bolts and brackets that I pulled off while switching to the new bumpers

Total weight reduction: 37#
I'm going to buy a holesaw kit and heat gun next time I get paid and put some holes in the aluminum, and work on removing some of the sound deadening tar. I should be able to remove another 6#, 3# off each end.
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Old 02-04-2012, 10:29 PM   #55
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Should've taken the commandos to a metal salvage facility. That's good money in aluminum.

And why on earth would you swap to skinny bumpers? Lose your man card?
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Old 02-04-2012, 10:36 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by propav8r View Post
And why on earth would you swap to skinny bumpers? Lose your man card?
almost 40 pounds more weight off the car. I'm shooting for 2600 with full interior, so have to pull off about 400+lbs. I'd like to find a truck scale or garbage dump around here so I can get a number of what the car is at right now. I know stock it was supposed to be 2900-3100lbs. Mine was a fully loaded GLT, leather, a/c cruise, tow hitch, fog lights, cb. I'm slowly converting it back to a DL to save some weight on trim spec. the DL's are at the low end of the scale. It should take off about 200lbs changing trim levels.
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Old 02-05-2012, 12:37 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DurableSwedish View Post
I drove the car home from work today, seems like a bi-monthly tradition. Observences:
1. I can't see out of the windshield at all, its chipped really bad
Insurance may cover it and replace it for free
2. the reflective parts on the mirrors are only there in spirit
No need to see whats behind you.
3. alternator isn't charging as much as it's supposed to. new battery, yet volt gauge doesn't touch half-way
I have a Denso 80a that tested bad that you can have for the core value. Then you can rebuild it to make something like 5000a
4. something in the back of the car vibrates and rattles all the time really loud
Are the butt checks cleaned out? I keep finding crap under my spare tire.
5. that Tiny, thin GLT steering wheel needs to be replaced with a thick sparco one, it's hard to get a good grip on.
6. I need new foam or tan cloth race seats, OEM 240 seats are garbage for support, I might as well be sitting on a beanbag chair
There is a nice set of grey Celica seats listed on OVT for a steal of a price.
7. My 850GLT feels faster and more stable
Paint it gold, ??????, profit

Even in the dark of night the paint is amazing after the detail job. IMO the back end should come down about a half inch, then the stance will be perfect.
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Old 02-05-2012, 01:10 AM   #58
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Yep, i agree with the stance. I would like to buy some coilovers from trianglesunlimited, but the car needs poly bushings first, coilovers and roll center correctors are a close second.
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Old 02-05-2012, 02:38 AM   #59
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Rsi has their short struts on sale right now
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Old 02-05-2012, 07:04 PM   #60
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This is the Weight reduction numbers Post so I have a total for reference.
(The guide I'm going off of)
Start weight 3100lbs:

-40lbs from no a/c
-20lbs from miata battery
-40lbs from removing everything from the trunk (carpet, spare tire, tar, repair tools) in progress
-20lbs from scraping the tar out from under the carpet in progress
-12 pounds from switching to lightweight wheels (about 4lbs lighter per corner with the enkei race wheels versus virgos)
-20lbs from removing the stereo and all wiring
-5 pounds from removing charcoal canister and all brackets
-30lbs from removing the crash triangles from the rear of the car
-40lbs from upgrading to skinny 86+ bumpers
-5lbs remove metal door trim and replace with vinyl stripe
-2lbs replace cam pulley with 2-piece aluminum adjustable

Tentative total:
234lbs!

To Do:
-Lightweight lug nuts -3lbs $50
-Sparco Evo Plus seats $650 w/ trianglesunlimited seat brackets $85, -50lbs
-carbon/fiberglass hood $700 -35lbs
-block off glovebox with plastic plate -7lbs
-rear seat delete with fiberboard + black carpet -33lbs
-remove rear seatbelts and latches -15lbs
-RSI lightweight flywheel - 12lbs
-update to 90+ rubber glass seals instead of old metal ones- 3lbs
-holesaw bumbers 5lbs
-Foam backed sound deadener mats - rear floors, front floors and transmission hump = 23.6 lbs
-tar - rear floors, front floors and hump = 21.45 lbs
- tar - boot and under rear seat areas = 8.8 lbs
- tar - total of inside front and rear doors = 5.1 lbs
- B21 K.L. racing lightweight crank pulley - 10lbs $150
- convert to Haltech and remove K-jet junk -20lbs
- convert to late model gear reduction starter -6lbs
- convert to late model 100A alternator -7lbs

- install 940 e-fan and remove clutch fan -5lbs
(It saves 60lbs removing the sunroof, still debating on that)
To do total: 270lbs

Total car goal: 2500lbs

Last edited by DurableSwedish; 02-09-2012 at 11:14 PM..
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Old 02-05-2012, 09:56 PM   #61
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Where the heck are you getting these numbers??
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Old 02-05-2012, 10:05 PM   #62
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Quote:
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Where the heck are you getting these numbers??
Which ones? The ones from the first section are things that I've weighed, the 2nd section are from anthony hydes web page, a couple from turbobricks threads and posted weights of things, which ones do you think are the wrong weight?
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Old 02-09-2012, 11:15 PM   #63
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I just took the car out to a truck scale, it came in at 2950 without me in it. If here-say is correct and my fully loaded 244 with sunroof, leather, p/s, a/c/ trailer hitch, fog lights, cruise control, spare tire with tool kit was 3100lbs from the factory, I have pulled about 150lbs off the car. I still need to work on gutting the trunk and removing the tar. It's getting there!
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Old 02-17-2012, 02:14 AM   #64
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Thinking about driving this thing around a lot more in the summer and I need to make a list of things it needs to be a "reasonable" daily driver:
1. new steering rack ($250)
2. new windshield, mirrors, rear glass seal ($350)
3. heatercore/blowermotor ($300)
4. fix speedometer, I've replaced the speedo and cable but it still fluxuates and reads about 10mph too high. I've been using a GPS on my phone for now ($100?)
5. new seats (sparco evo2, $750ea)
6. all new poly bushings, panhard rod, lateral links ($300)
All that should make it not so sketchy to drive?

Last edited by DurableSwedish; 02-17-2012 at 02:36 PM..
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Old 04-20-2012, 07:45 PM   #65
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New steering rack, poly control arm bushings, trianglesunlimied.com adjustable swaybar end links, front wheel bearings and new strut mounts were installed a few weeks ago. One of the techs here at the shop made me some shortened front coilovers that we are going to try and install next week. Saab struts and some welding made coilovers that were about 3" shorter then the factory strut tubes. Those strut tubes and an alignment should make the car handle pretty good.

-The car has developed an oil pressure problem now. The light comes on at idle and goes up to about 2.5 bar when the car has some RPM at it. Running 10w30 Royal Purple oil in it right now.

-The car has almost no horsepower below 3000rpm, so it's pretty painful to drive.

-Last tank of gas averaged 11.5MPG. I think I need to drop the car off at RSI or somewhere to have the power tuned, k-jet must be running like garbage.
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Old 05-14-2012, 03:40 PM   #66
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Coilovers being installed right now. I weighed the stock setup and the new coilover setup. It is saving exactly 10lbs per side. another 20lbs off the front of the car!

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Old 05-16-2012, 03:58 PM   #67
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Nice! Let me know how the tire/wheel clearance is at the same ride height. So, those are stock 240 spindles that you had cut down and re-welded to work with the Saab inserts? What spring rate and hardware are you using? Where'd you get it and how much $$?
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Old 05-16-2012, 07:06 PM   #68
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Old man John built them. They're turned down 740 tubes slipped into 240 spindles and welded. I don't recall which lock rings he used...
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Old 05-16-2012, 07:06 PM   #69
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And he'd be happy to build more
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Old 01-19-2013, 02:16 PM   #70
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I guess there's some progress being made:



Bought ben's vurbo's/john(the asperator)/doug's old blueprinted 300hp+ shortblock to replace the no oil pressure original 200k miles engine that is in Lucifer right now, been cleaning it up and painting to install it in the car. Been waiting 4 weeks for the salvation army to come pick up a 10' giant old couch that's been living in the garage so I can bring the car in and start with the cleanup and engine swap. I have all the parts I need and the engine hoist and everything, just need this couch out of the garage to get started.

The plan is to install this short block and do some light porting to the 90- manifold that's on there then drop it off at RSI for a dyno and baseline then retune for 200whp on k-jet. Once that's sorted out I'll focus more on sorting through the chassis (LSD, Seats, steering wheel, brakes, and buttoning down the rear end)

Last edited by DurableSwedish; 01-19-2013 at 02:33 PM.. Reason: photobucket was being retarded
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Old 03-26-2013, 06:33 PM   #71
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Spent the weekend working on the car again:

Engine is out, starting to clean and transfer pieces to the new shortblock. I found out that my throw out bearing was broken and flopping around, my clutch fork rivets for the pivot point was broken and cracked and the clutch friction disk has a date stamp of 1997 on it, still about 50% material left on it also.

I found that my idle air control motor has been unplugged for at least 6 years since I replaced the engine harness with a n.o.s one back in 2005. Thinking of removing the cold start equipment since it doesn't work anyway, might simplify the wiring even more.

strangely, about 5 seconds after the transmission cleared the front bumper as the engine was being removed, the power went out in the garage and I was stuck in the tiny garage with an engine hoist taking up 80% of the available space in the absolute dark. I thought it was funny that the power went out as Lucifer's heart left the confines of his body. Is that a good or bad omen?

Last edited by DurableSwedish; 03-26-2013 at 07:08 PM..
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:03 PM   #72
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Nice! And, no idea on the omen... Haha
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Old 11-11-2013, 03:38 PM   #73
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It's alive!
It turns out that everything was hooked up correctly and my hours and hours (I think I ended up spending about 12 hours total retiming and double checking wires, relays, fuel pressure, etc) was kind of a waste of time. The breather hose from the crank case to the turbo inlet pipe had hardened and made a big vacuum leak. In addition, the fuel distributor flap had been gummed up pretty bad and was very hard to lift so the vacuum wasn't lifting the plate enough to give it enough fuel.

To the nay-sayers: I removed the cold start injector and warm up regulator assemblies and complete wiring and blocked off the ports on the fuel distributor and the car runs fine without them. You have to give the car some revs when it is cold to warm up enough to idle on its own, but once it's warm, the car runs fine without them.

Cooling system is hooked up with the heater core hardlines removed and plugged off, no coolant leaks anywhere.

New problems:
-I reused some crush washers for the oil cooler lines and they didn't crush enough and are not leaking a significant amount of oil on the ground. Jim fisher has ordered OEM ones for me which cost about $2.50 for the 4 of them.

-Alternator ground wire exploded, so the 2 alternator I have are dead. I ordered an 80A one for a 940T which looks like the same size, but higher power from the 200k + miles 55A OEM one that was on the car.

-I need to order a driver's side motor mount, the OEM diesel mount I installed on it last year popped when I was removing the motor. The motor flops around pretty good with only one motor mount.

-I think my starter is on it's way out, it makes lots of noise when it's cranking. It is also the original one on the car, so probably very worn out after 200k+ miles. It's good enough for now.

-original t3 turbo is probably dead, it makes bearing noise and lots of blue/white smoke out of the tail pipe under boost. No coolant in the oil or vice versa so most likely not a headgasket. (Elring engine gasket was used with proper torque and installation)

-It won't idle below 1300RPM. The throttle plate isn't sealing completely, the idle lowers if you manually close the throttle plate, probably needs to be readjusted?

-The licence plate expired within the last year that the car has been sitting in my garage, so the idle has to be below 1k before I take it through emissions.

Making progress!
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Old 02-24-2015, 08:47 PM   #74
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I dropped Lucifer off at ARD (http://www.ardideas.com/) last week for some major work to make the car more reliable.
  • Remove K jet system/install LH fuel system & wire
  • Quote for custom wiring, brand new wiring loom
  • Fabricate intake and shroud
  • Motor mount replace
  • Gasket match/port intake, head, t body, spacer
  • Powder coat intake manifold, brackets, etc..
  • Check Fitment on AEM gauge, fit blanking plate CNC
  • Upgrade wiring to Coil +
  • Alternator, test and confirm operation. Includes remove and replace
  • Ground wiring update alternator, chassis, engine block
  • Remove head studs (intake) install Yoshifab studs
  • Install strut brace
  • Install phenolic spacers, check for porting
  • Set MBC and wastegate for 1 bar
  • Fit skid plate, may need hardware
He said it'll take a couple weeks, and I can't wait until it's on the road again!
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Old 02-24-2015, 09:01 PM   #75
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hahahaah my old motor! That dirty slut motor gettin all over town.

BTW if you paint it red, it won't leak oil but it will be stuck in the 14's. If you keep it blue, it WILL leak but +10hp.
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