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Old 02-24-2015, 09:05 PM   #76
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lol, it's ford red now.
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Old 03-20-2015, 10:10 PM   #77
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update: the car is still at ARD and eating more $$$$. The engine is looking really good with the EFI installed and K-jet removed and wiring cleaned up and tucked. Powdercoating everything is making it look good. I bought an NPR intercooler from a vendor at work for $130 so we are upgrading that at the same time. ARD recommended to upgrade to s70 T5 blue injectors for a 320hp goal and improved tech/fuel economy/cold start/response versus the green 740T injectors he was going to install. Once it's buttoned up I'll probably drive it to a local dyno and see what it makes now that it'll run nicely. I've got my fingers crossed for 200+ whp!
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Old 03-21-2015, 09:01 AM   #78
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Shoot, I am starting to like the 80's 240 front end more and more! Especially with those old school amber turns. Good to see the car coming together nicely, replace the darn crush washers next time!
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Old 05-07-2015, 06:01 PM   #79
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Still at ARD, the new wiring harness was upgraded to thicker gauge wires for the ignition system and additional thicker grounds were installed to help the electricity go where it's supposed to go. They used my car to prototype a heat shield and cold air intake system for 240s with turbo and efi. They are selling them for $45


The alternator has also been updated from the 45A 240 giant 20lb one to one off an early 90s 740 with 90a and only weighs about 6lbs. Custom intercooler piping has been made to attach the tall/thicker NPR intercooler to help with more underhood temps. There is a slight misfire that he's been diagnosing. The car is going to be rock solid reliable once he's done which is why I've been spending the additional for the increased attention to detail.

I'm finally having my Group-A spoiler installed by them also, they are working on designing me spoiler spacers like I see on the original group-a car to give an increased spoiler angle for more down-force.
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Old 12-04-2015, 02:14 AM   #80
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months later...making progress. ARD got everything wired up and running, but i had really low compression in one cylinder. Turns out that one valve was bent some how. He took the head off, ordered up some fancy double valve springs and had the head skimmed and rebuilt for me. I thought it would be a good idea to put 10mm exhaust studs in while everything was off so my custom exhaust manifold has something solid to hang off of, plus he's port/polishing everything up a bunch. I sent him pictures of the group-a heads and a couple high power heads from Europe to base my head off of. The motor is almost very solid so i can focus on the chassis build and weight reduction again (still shooting for <2700lbs). Here are some pictures:
double valve springs, ipd turbo cam and adjustable cam gear:

ported exhaust ports:

ported intake ports:

resurfaced head:

we are still deciding what to do with the combustion chambers, maybe polish and even bowl size?
hopefully the car will be on the road by the end of the year, he's got a lot left to do for me though.
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Old 01-30-2016, 03:01 PM   #81
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The car runs. The cylinder head just had some other clean up and smoothing. The oxygen sensor was doing something weird, so we replaced it. I'm still working to organize a day to have the car tuned on a dyno as a baseline before it gets a bigger turbo and new exhaust setup.

My speedometer isn't really working either, we are trying to decide if a GPS speedometer would be better or converting to a late model electric one and a tru-trac lsd while it's apart.
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Old 08-10-2016, 01:59 AM   #82
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I guess I've got some updates.
the head is back on, nothing leaks, the o2 sensor was replaced, my turbo was shot and causing so much oil blowing through it that the oxygen sensor was getting fouled out and making the car run poorly. I thought, well, I'm this far into it, might as well keep going...
I bought a stainless steel header from captain bondo in a turbobricks group buy about 10 years ago that has been in my garage. I've been putting off installing it because it needs custom oil lines, water cooling lines, intake lines, down pipe, etc to work. The shop decided to have the header sent out to swaincoating (http://swaintech.com/) since the local ceramic coater was having issues with his oven. The header just got back (3 months later!) and we should be headed into the next step of upgrading the turbo and giving the car a true 3" mandrel bent stainless steel side exit with high flow catalytic converter within the next few months.

I've decided to go with a 16t with a big flat flange because it's a little bit bigger than a 15g and should be good for the almost 300hp goal that I'm shooting for while i beef up the rest of the car's drivetrain (transmission and differential are next after tightening up the rear suspension). The car's old turbo was a 200k+ mile T3 turbo from a junkyard that ran 18psi violently through it for a couple years before dying. I'll get some more pictures of the exhaust work as I receive them.

Last edited by DurableSwedish; 09-01-2016 at 12:44 AM..
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Old 08-30-2016, 10:57 PM   #83
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making more progress:

spark plug wires are very close to the tubes:


ordered up some spark plug heat insulators to prevent melting:


also had to order low profile exhaust nuts because the stock studs were increased in size to prevent breaks:
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Old 08-31-2016, 12:37 AM   #84
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Normally the ones I use have a reservoir tip on the end Idk how well it will work.
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Old 08-31-2016, 12:42 AM   #85
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JOke aside, you have any pictures of the combustion chambers on your finished head?
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Old 09-01-2016, 12:45 AM   #86
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not really, the shop cleaned them up a little. didn't do much. he focused mostly on the runners, port matching and polishing them I guess.
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Old 03-16-2019, 07:31 PM   #87
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I got tired of messing around so dropped the car off with a wheelbarrow of cash at P.R.E. (https://preracing.com/)
They are making it fast and solid so I can do track days with it finally. Here's what they are working on and fixing:

Turbo drain leaking.
2/4/2019 Downpipe not fully tightened onto turbo
2/4/2019 Smoke tested, found leak at turbo compress housing where wastegate actuator bolts to housing-recommend removing actuator and inspecting housing. Leak at BOV, idle air lines, throttle shaft, and wastegate shaft also.
2/4/2019 O2 bung plug in downpipe not sealed with crush washer-bolt is tight but washer is free
2/4/2019 Coolant low.
INSTALL IAT SENSOR
header wrap to prevent #1 spark wire from melting and other wires getting too hot and causing misfires
wrap downpipe with remainder wrap • wire up and tune idle air control motor, clean up/hide hoses • preform max power tune, see if it runs out of boost

2/4/2019 Cylinder leakdown Cyl1-12% Cyl2-9% Cyl3-12% Cyl4-3%
2/4/2019 Compression test Cyl1-144psi Cyl2-160psi Cyl3-146psi Cyl4-160psi
calculated CR @ 8.4:1
2/6/2019 Recommend accessory belt replacement
2/7/2019 All systems functional. Turning up boost and clutch started slipping.
2/7/2019 Engine overheating at idle. Need to check coolant system. Was low on coolant, topped off now holding temp although dash temp no longer reading for some reason. ECU shows holding 80c
2/7/2019 fixed fuel prime and coolant temp fuel corrections to make car start cold on first crank. need to confirm.
2/7/2019 coolant temp and air temp do not read the same at key on cold motor. Suspect coolant temp sensor is OEM volvo and needs to be generic gm (haltech) sensor.
WAVETRAC LSD INSTALL / ADJUSTABLE BILLET TRAILING ARMS
RADIUM CATCH CAN INSTALL
REPLACE TIE ROD ENDS
4 WHEEL ALIGNMENT
REPLACE CLUTCH DISC AND PRESSURE PLATE
SURFACE OR REPLACE FLYWHEEL
ADD TRANS FLUID
HYDRAULIC CONVERSION CLUTCH PEDAL
3/14/2019 Speedometer cable broken at transmission. Missing threaded collar that secures it took transmission also.
3/14/2019 Driveshaft carrier bearing mount rubber dryrotted and falling apart, recommend replacement

so far it made 240WHP at 14psi on the 16t turbo before the clutch started slipping. They said it should easily make over 300whp when it's all buttoned up. I have 750cc injectors if it runs out of fuel.
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Old 03-17-2019, 09:29 AM   #88
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This is rad Colin, I didn’t know about this one...you’ve done some great work so far! Glad to see you’re still around!
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Old 03-17-2019, 11:16 AM   #89
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Also, what’s your coilover setup?
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Old 03-17-2019, 03:34 PM   #90
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had a machine shop make some for the fronts, ipd lowering springs in the rear. been fighting with this engine for so long, i haven't messed with the suspension too much. with all the power the setup is making, i think i'll have to save up for the TKO600 transmission swap next.
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Old 09-25-2019, 05:30 PM   #91
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P.r.e. Is all done with it this year. I'm broke now lol. Time to do more research on a 400hp+ transmission!
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Old 09-25-2019, 09:11 PM   #92
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Any recent pictures of the car/motor?
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Old 09-26-2019, 01:11 AM   #93
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Not yet, I need to detail it. They are finishing up some cold start tuning so it runs easier when it's cold.
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Old 09-26-2019, 04:30 PM   #94
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Originally Posted by DurableSwedish View Post
P.r.e. Is all done with it this year. I'm broke now lol. Time to do more research on a 400hp+ transmission!
Transmissions are rated in torque, but yes, a Volvo transmission will not last long with that much torque, especially in third gear!

It looks like the boost isn't falling off at high rpm but instead it's creeping up! So, the wastegate needs to flow a little better, maybe? Or something else. In any case, the tuning looks good with the rock solid AFR under load and the boost is very well controlled other than the very slight creep at higher rpm. Unless they have it tuned to request that so it doesn't have lower HP numbers.

TKO600 is a bit much for your setup, a decent T5 will probably suffice.

Congrats! Now you just need to figure out a better way to isolate your spark plug wires from moving around and/or touching the header. Did you say the header is already ceramic coated?
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Old 09-26-2019, 07:58 PM   #95
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Its already ceramic/swain coated and header wrapped. the wire doesn't melt if there is an air gap, but when it bumps the manifold it arcs almost immediately.
it has a TD04-16t converted to at 22T with the little conical exhaust housing, 2.25" outlet going into a 3" downpipe instead of the 3" on the big flat flange one. it spiked to 25psi, but they said it didn't make any more power at 25psi, so they lowered it to 20psi.
They recommend a GTX3076R (https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan..._Code=GG2-3076).

I'm looking into one of these strengthened T5's:
https://astroperformance.com/product...-transmission/
http://promotionpowertrain.com/TRANSMISSIONS_.html

Both should be overkill, but want it to take track day abuse up at PIR.

M47000 (http://shop.rallybaron.fi/product/68...-to-a-5--speed) would be fun too for $4,800, but I haven't seen the rating for it, their web page says for use above 200ft-lbs, so maybe not the strongest?
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Old 09-27-2019, 11:44 AM   #96
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I see I see. A larger turbo will definitely be a nice upgrade as it will make the same/better power with less boost and less heat underhood. That being said, you need to make a way to hold the spark plug wires in place so they don't move and touch the manifold, it seems!

There's also just the Ford Racing T5-Z transmission which I expect should be fine. The M47000 is not what you want, that will not survive.
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Old 10-19-2019, 01:39 PM   #97
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Doing measurements for more tire.
24545R18 in the front and 27540R18 in the rear!
fronts are going to be pretty tight, may need to get wider fenders. rears fit well. Need some 35mm spacers for the front and 35mm for the rear.
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Old 10-19-2019, 01:44 PM   #98
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passenger seats and seatbelts removed for more weight reduction. I have a carbon bucket and new steering wheel picked out, just need to pay some other bills before dumping another $1500 on the car.
I have an uncracked 90+ black dashboard to go in the car too, but debating on having it covered in leather to make it nicer. The car is also getting 90+ (flush mount) front windshield and rear window seals put in on the 30th.
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Old 10-19-2019, 01:46 PM   #99
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The money shot. Literally. OMG so much money.
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Old 10-19-2019, 02:50 PM   #100
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Colin! I haven’t seen pictures of what you have for years, this is impressive. That first picture of the rear wheel...those aren’t 275s are they? Also, what wheels are you running?
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