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Old 12-02-2012, 11:35 PM   #151
kyle242gt
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Oh hai neupage!

Didja know I had a 62 ropeshaft Tempest. Neat car. One of many on the long train, basically sold off for the rust work needed, unobtainium interior bits, and Naderesque handling. Course 205's on 4" wheels didn't help.

The driver side universal will be inside the firewall. One of the significant upsides to the collapsible column is the leeway with the endpoint. But given the location of the block, frame rails, pedals, I don't have a terrible lot of options.

Frankly, I'm hopeful that it will all just sorta shake out in the end. As long as it handles reasonably well, stops straight, and goes where it's pointed at full boil, the rest of the ergonomics kinda fade out. It's turning into something of a test bed for a Factory Five project, or a full-on Kool Kal Kustom, or me hanging up my wrenching bits and calling it a day. Given that my previous bragging rights build was a trans-raised and narrowed lowered 64 Bug, I'm makin bacon on this thing no matter what. Worst case, I'm out 5K or so. Watch it burn.
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Old 12-16-2012, 06:11 PM   #152
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At this rate I should finish this project roughly by the year 3,000.

It's taking a while because everything depends on everything else, so it's hard to know where to put components without mocking up a bunch of other pieces.

Got the first column mount figured out, spotwelded for now. The upper mounts will be to the dash. Still playing around with the left/right up/down specifics there... nice to move the column more central to the seat, but then it takes on a notable twist. Very little room around the clutch quadrant and gas pedal.

Big news today was building the universal shaft. The upper end is from the Mustang, the lower end from the Subaru, and the middle is more sprint car tubing. Ground down the DD Ford end to fit inside, the Subaru end fit already. Did my best to get it more or less straight, then welded it up.

So now the steering wheel turns the wheels!
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Old 02-02-2013, 05:03 PM   #153
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Motor mounts!

Not really a big deal, just had to get the engine situated, make sure there was clearance for the steering shaft (hence the early focus on the steering, pedals, and column).

The mounts actually rest on each other, instead of the bolts.

Wound up with about 3/8 clearance between the bottom of the front sump and the crossmember. Hopefully that will be enough, otherwise it'll be some more surgery.

Have the bottoms welded in, will finish the tops a little later.

Will also add some sort of bracing for the rear end of the mounts, was planning to bolt in to preserve that aspect of the front suspension... but the way the mounts fit in, I don't think the crossmember would be droppable anyway, so I may just weld them to the frame rail. Thanks for any advice on that.

Not sure what I'm doing next, tax season is starting up, so I'll have a lot less time and energy for a few months. So much left to do, I don't really know where to start.
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Old 02-02-2013, 05:30 PM   #154
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Be careful, we dont need another Ayrton with a welded column.
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Old 02-17-2013, 12:16 PM   #155
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FANTASTIC THREAD.

Great work!
Love it.
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Old 07-21-2013, 07:57 PM   #156
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Update time. After getting some great feedback in OT, I turned my attention to the rear axle.

The stock setup:


The axle clearly won't stand up to the V8, but I didn't see any glaring shortcoming in the rear arms and panhard. Top link will have to go, however, due to the way it attaches to the axle housing.


I don't have the ability to modify the Ford housing to match, and suspect the whole shebang may get upgraded to a four link kit in the future. However, I do want to get the car running and driving, so this is the easiest way to get something functional.

I modified the Volvo bushings that secure it to the trailing arms. I cut them with a utility knife then cleaned them up with my bench grinder.


There's a lot of crap on the Ford axle, but none of it is it the way... if I get it narrowed, I'll have the pros remove the unnecessary brackets at that time.


Voila!


The Ford axle is about seven or eight inches wider, but at least it's symmetrical, being from a Mustang instead of an Explorer.



I have this crazy idea of putting 275/60s on the rear 15x7's, in place of the current 195/55's. That's going to make the inner fender space helpful, but really make the rears interesting.



No idea where that will end up... currently thinking of just cutting the stock fenders up into pieces, then working them and filling in as I go. I hate the simple slice-and-widen treatment, really ruins the curves of the car.


This could work, and has a certain insane flair to it.


Then again, always thought box flares would fit well with the fender trimlines.


For now, I'll just run fenderless.


In retrospect, not sure what the delay was getting this step done. Chalk it up to summer vacations and all that good stuff.

Next step will be the top link. You can see where the top plate attaches - the holes next to the tunnel.


Interested in any ideas. My basic plan is to tie the Ford top mounts to one Heim that mounts to the 544's top mount plate. My main worry there is using a Heim and the threads in tension/compression.
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Old 07-22-2013, 01:30 AM   #157
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Can it be narrowed?
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Old 07-27-2013, 02:05 PM   #158
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Got a pretty simple solution for the upper link for your rear axle. Let me see if I can find the pics on my other laptop to illustrate better.

I would get the rear mounted under the car and functional before worrying about the fenders. Once it's mounted and your wheels/tires are on it you can modify the fenders to fit. Maybe find a set of rear donor fenders to give you the extra sheet metal you need, already curved to match.
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Old 07-27-2013, 02:58 PM   #159
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just narrow the rear, its actually very easy to do at home in the garage. i did my 8.8 only on one side but still its maybe a 2 hour process taking your time.
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Old 07-27-2013, 03:01 PM   #160
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Got a pretty simple solution for the upper link for your rear axle.
Working on mounting the 544's upper mount to the Ford inner ears.

Curious to see your suggestion!
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Can it be narrowed?
just narrow the rear, its actually very easy to do at home in the garage.
Don't really want to address the axle width until I have tires/wheels picked out. Just trying to get it rolling.
Don't the axles have to be resplined?
Also not sure if my 135A 110 welder is heavy enough to weld the axle housing....
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Old 07-28-2013, 04:55 PM   #161
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Making the upper mount...

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Old 07-28-2013, 06:51 PM   #162
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full droop



The lower driveline loop will need to be reworked/removed, or the checkstraps shortened. The one-piece Ford driveshaft's larger diameter and greater range of motion will cause contact.


middle of travel



Hard to get a good picture of full compression, but the driveline is very close to straight, it hits the axle stops and diff snubber at the same time. That works for me.

Panhard is next. That's going to be interesting, since I think the diff housing is totally in the way now. Been lucky so far as far as clearance goes, so we'll see.
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Old 07-31-2013, 06:08 PM   #163
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Added some braces to the front of the diff.



Using more sprint car frame (and some slave labor)
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Old 07-31-2013, 10:47 PM   #164
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slaves ftw!












wat...
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Old 08-18-2013, 04:11 PM   #165
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After getting the rear end bracket welded up and painted, found the forward bars hit the floor near the center link. So I cut the tubes in the middle, rotated them around, and welded them back up.

Now it gets to about 1/2" from the rear bumpstops before hitting the center bumpstop. Good enough!

Next step is the panhard. Because the Ford diff is bigger, I can't use the old mounts - the bar gets pinched between the diff cover and a floor crossmember. So I'm going to lower the body mount and move it back an inch or so. Don't happen to have steel stock on hand right now, so that'll be next week's job.
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:34 PM   #166
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Panhard is done, frame mount is done, axle mount is partially in. Need to weld the top and bottom joints as well as add a gusset toward the center.

Adjustment hardware is grade 8 1/2 fine thread.

Body mount is 1/8" plate, axle mount is 1"x1/8" square tubing.

Bearing in mind this is all likely temporary, I think it's coming along nicely.

Interested in feedback on the structure of the frame mount as well as whether to add top /bottom gussets to the axle mount.

The body mount was a pain in the butt to form in my vice, and didn't come out square initially. I think I'd have been better off making it from segments of plate welded together instead of steel origami.

And I messed up the panhard, cut it too short and had to run to the hardware store for a longer bolt. Ugh.

Still, the rear suspension is about done.

What's next? Thinking floor, tunnel, firewall, trans mount. More metal work, hooray. Then wiring, headers, brakes, fuel system, driveline. Hey! Almost done!

Attached pics of the body mount, axle mount, and full compression, full droop.
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Old 08-22-2013, 09:01 AM   #167
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Project is looking great!

If I could make any suggestions, I would:

1. Gusset the panhard mount at the axle. There will potentially be a lot of force on that mount in a hard corner and I would feel better about making it stronger than it needs to be.
2. Plate the other end of the panhard mount at the frame. Capture the original mount stud and the new bolt with a plate that spans the weld. Front and back would be ideal.

I tend to over-build things sometimes but I never have to worry about whether or not it is good enough. (with exception to not making a lower spring retainer or limiting straps for my wagon, but I thought I would get it done before I jumped it that much)

Anyway, keep it up! I can't wait to see it on the road!
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Old 08-24-2013, 11:16 PM   #168
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Put plates on the front and rear of the frame-side panhard mount.
Put a 1/4"x1" gusset on the axle-side panhard mount.
Have to run some 1/4" rod around the axle tubes to keep the trailing arms located, then the rear is done.

Turned my eyes to the floorpan, moving on to the floor/tunnel/firewall sheetmetal. Damn it's a rusty mess. Hope to take the whole Volvo floor out and sub the Foxstang panel. We'll see how that turns out.
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Old 08-25-2013, 12:54 AM   #169
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Sorry to cause you more work, lol! Glad to hear you beefed it up though. I would have hated to see a "Look what broke in the middle of a hard left today", thread.

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Old 08-25-2013, 02:57 AM   #170
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All good brother, glad for any constructive criticism. Funny thing is discarding the temporary nature of the rear design... "maybe it'll hold up!"
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Old 08-25-2013, 05:17 AM   #171
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once upon a time, i drove this car!

to the progress
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Old 09-29-2013, 07:51 PM   #172
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Once upon a time, Pat told me this car looked rust free. I thought so too.

I think I'll have to remove the angle section to access the rusty area. Air hammer to the rescue.

Any ideas on using flat steel (16ga) for the floors instead of beadrolling it?
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Old 10-02-2013, 02:37 PM   #173
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http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ighlight=floor

^ has good ideas
Also have seen people chase a groove (bead) with a drift over a recessed piece of plywood.
Do you have a router?
No need for a bead roller. (would be nice though)

Cool build!
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Old 10-02-2013, 02:47 PM   #174
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Something like this in your air hammer could make life easy.
http://www.toolfetch.com/grey-pneuma...FbCDQgodZGsAeA

Another floor pan post. http://allmetalshaping.com/showthrea...ighlight=floor
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Old 10-02-2013, 03:57 PM   #175
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Thanks a lot for the links! Great to see the fab in action. Picked up a HF beadroller, exchanged the 16ga for 18, and bought a 20' length of 1x2x.125 to build a perimeter frame.

Air hammer is a great tool (noisy as hell though). Be great with an assortment of body hammers. Might head back to HF, they have a body hammer/die assortment that might come in handy.

Going to start on the patch today, maybe pull the driver's floor - depends on if the frame rail is secure at the rear (under the seat support) or floating free in a lacy sea of rust.
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