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Old 02-17-2012, 04:39 AM   #126
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Those seats look great! Are they comfy?
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Old 02-17-2012, 04:52 AM   #127
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Seats look nice

No problem for the welding bud!
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Old 02-17-2012, 07:30 AM   #128
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thanks, yeah i really love the seats, they are pretty confy but i have no been driving in them for a while so no idea how i will like them in the long run once installed.
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Old 02-17-2012, 07:48 AM   #129
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hah
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Old 02-17-2012, 01:53 PM   #130
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Jw?

It's me Jelmar ;) wake up B!
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Old 02-23-2012, 12:47 PM   #131
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These showed up way sooner than i expected. All OEM parts from the other side of the world

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Old 03-11-2012, 05:56 PM   #132
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242 project has been idle for a while 360 Cup needs to be done by the end of the month and helping my dad out with his 940.
Did put in the new seats and took all the stuff out, still heavy leaks in the car. tor down the strips of the windschield and found a hole, not big enough for all the water. Seems like the seal of the passengerdoor is leaking too cause the chair there got water on it, not just under it.





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Old 04-24-2012, 03:32 PM   #133
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Been really busy with the 360 Cup car to get it ready for the first race. Thats behind me now and the next 2 i wont do because of funds. That means some time to work on other projects.. real volvo's it feels good!

My dad picked up the rear axle, 2 petrolpumps and the cluster for swapping the KM gauge that way i dont need a wired km gauge and gearbox. Also received a modified manifold for the LPG. too bad it was not complete now i will need to swap everything over and buy new seals but thats not too bad i guess.


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Old 05-02-2012, 05:19 PM   #134
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Cleaned off the axle and hit it with some anti-rust and paint. Does anybody know the ratio on this nr and how its gonna be with a Aw71. I know it was a manual car where the new axle came off



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Old 05-02-2012, 05:28 PM   #135
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Do you have the pictures of the speedo swap? Can't find them anywhere, they used to be on volvolvo.
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Old 05-02-2012, 05:39 PM   #136
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Nope have not yet gotten there.. so if you find them i'd want to see them too
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Old 05-02-2012, 05:44 PM   #137
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Also have been playing with the design of the car. One of my Swedish friends drew me a blueprint for my 242 so my designer can work with it. Here is the progress on that.




getting really exited!
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Old 05-04-2012, 11:54 AM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JW240 View Post
You may run into an issue with the rear brake lines where the steelflex line attaches to the axle, the form of the coupling can be wrong for the hard line on the axle. The thread fits but the end of the steelflex line is like this > and the end of the hard line is like that too <. You need > to > flared. Kinda hard to explain here but on my 240 i ran into that issue, also have Goodridge lines but maybe this seller sells the correct set? Fixed it by modifying the copper tubing on the rear axle.
seems to fit

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Old 05-04-2012, 12:10 PM   #139
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Looking at the axle from the rear of the car, there should be a sticker on the axle tube on the left side. The ratio will be there. I've held a razor blade perpendicular to the axle tube and scraped the coating off the sticker that way.

What year is the axle from and what engine did the car have? Could be a 3.31 if it's from a manual trans car.
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Old 05-14-2012, 03:16 PM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by towerymt View Post
Looking at the axle from the rear of the car, there should be a sticker on the axle tube on the left side. The ratio will be there. I've held a razor blade perpendicular to the axle tube and scraped the coating off the sticker that way.

What year is the axle from and what engine did the car have? Could be a 3.31 if it's from a manual trans car.
I'll do that!
Today i got down some sanding and removing the last wiring (its hiding under the breakservo)
Now i'm not sure if i will colorcode paint it or just go with cheap and also sort of cool black

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Old 05-14-2012, 03:29 PM   #141
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Black paint looks cheap in an engine bay.
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Old 05-16-2012, 04:30 PM   #142
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Quote:
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Black paint looks cheap in an engine bay.
the ones i saw looked okay, anyway might just do colorcoded 0,5 liter less or more wont make a huge difference.

Tonight i unbolted the tank, (i need to replace the cap for a intake pump and return one) was much easier than i expected. The rust on the top of the tank however came as a surprise not trough but i do need to look into getting the tank off the lines. The one line connected to the front wont come off because its sealed with plastic and has a rubber cover. Tips on how to undo that are welcome.

Also the fuel inlet hose does not seem to want to come undone, i removed the clamps in the trunk. Now this is a bit of a hassle because i cannot remove the plastic cover. Because the LPG tank holder is mounted over it. They do come loose but i dont have enough play to wiggle it off. Called it a day because i got annoyed and had a long day at the office too.





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Old 05-17-2012, 04:55 AM   #143
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Use a heat gun on those lines.. heat em up and wiggle.. turn on heat gun before getting close to tank area, incase of "ON" spark......
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Old 05-17-2012, 05:08 AM   #144
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If you haven't found the sticker on the axle, you can check the axle gear ratio by rotating the flange where the driveshaft mounts and count how much revolutions it takes for the wheels to go round once. That'll be the ratio.
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Old 05-17-2012, 10:26 AM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueSwede View Post
Use a heat gun on those lines.. heat em up and wiggle.. turn on heat gun before getting close to tank area, incase of "ON" spark......
Thanks i will give that a go, Tank is empty already so thats one less thing to worry about

Quote:
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If you haven't found the sticker on the axle, you can check the axle gear ratio by rotating the flange where the driveshaft mounts and count how much revolutions it takes for the wheels to go round once. That'll be the ratio.
Thanks, not yet looked to be honest just derust and painted it. Thats a good tip tough.
On the petrol lines issue, i sort of forgot i need the lines from the tank to the engine with the Filter fittings etc. You prob will use those of the 940 for your new project?
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Old 05-21-2012, 06:10 AM   #146
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here's a fun read for people who might not have seen it. I see some stuff i'd like to do :-)

http://www.vandors.com/240mods.html
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Old 05-21-2012, 01:13 PM   #147
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My dad gave a go on welding the 242 today with electrodes. Its really thin so the metal melted. He hates the result. Still progress in my eyes so i want to update.

We are gonna look for a MIG with a bigger bottle soon. We have seen some nice ones used for around 500 euro´s of good brands and like the crappy italion ones for 500-700 new. Where not really sure what to do here what are the odds of a good brand (2000 euro new one) will brake down and what are the partscosts on those when they fail. I'm sure the italian ones will breake down and spareparts are nowhere to be found


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Old 05-21-2012, 01:40 PM   #148
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Get a used one of a good brand. They will weld better and break down less often. Should something break, you can always get parts for it. Don't you already have a MIG welder? Just get a bigger bottle for that one.
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Old 05-21-2012, 02:41 PM   #149
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It only takes little bottles, they are kinda expensive. Also considering the amount of welding we are going to be doing for the next few years its probabbly a good idea to get a better MIG
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Old 05-21-2012, 04:53 PM   #150
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yeah get a 10 or 20 l bottle of gas. shop around for gas prices, i've had quotes range between 250 and 400 euro for the same bottle of gas (20L ar/co2 mix).
bigger machine, 2nd hand, good plan. 2 years ago I got a barely used 280 amp Esab mig/mag for ~1/3 of new price, works prefect. you dont need one of the same size for car work, you only need 30-50 amps for most bodywork but you hardly find quality machines in that range so you'll probably want to aim for a 150-200 amps machine.
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