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Old 05-03-2013, 07:40 AM   #126
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^^^^ What beacme of this? Did you get it to run?
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Old 05-03-2013, 08:46 AM   #127
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I worked on the car until Winter spending $1400 in fuel system replacements. Tank was rusted to the point of being unusable. Rust had destroyed the lift pump and pressure pump and gummed up the fuel distributor. The rebuild company was good enough to clean it out under warranty. Injectors were rusted shut. Fuel pressure regulator was full of rust. Everything replaced now but in the mean time Winter shut me down and I swapped over to the V8 Volvo that had a stall in a heated garage. I now have it running and only a few things to finish up then off to the paint shop. That will allow me to move the Bertone inside and get it wrapped up. It does run but has timing issues and vacuum leaks.

Lots more detail in this thread: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=259627

Thanks for asking!
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Old 05-03-2013, 02:31 PM   #128
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Good to hear you didn't give up. Subscribed to the other thread.
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Old 07-23-2013, 10:22 AM   #129
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I haven't made any progress on this car but found one just like it in north Georgia. Would love to put it away for future restoration but at the rate I work on cars I may not live that long.

Anyone else interested in a real classic should grab this one.

The utter '81 is, indeed, gold and bronze as Volvo called it and only has 28k miles. Nothing I saw would indicate that it is other than what is claimed. It was a west coast Florida car purchased by the current owner out of an estate. Owner very interested in selling it. He stated that he turned down $1000 and is asking $3000 so that sorta brackets the final selling price.

The paint is solid without any visible rust in the usual places but does need repainting. No signs of sheet metal repair. The leather is very dried out but is not cracked. The leather needs to be removed from the seats and soaked in Leatherique's Restorer for a couple days. Of course the dash is cracked.

The car has sat for 7 years but ran fine to where it is parked. I cautioned him about trying to start it without flushing the fuel system based on my experience.

I would go take pictures but you can look at this Bertone Restoration thread to see pretty much the same condition. It does have a couple variations from mine; it has the original 25 spoke 14" wheels, it does not have butt cheeks and has the white outline rear mud flaps which I now remember from my earlier car.
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Old 10-24-2013, 03:54 PM   #130
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I'd say it depends on how much you paid for it. If you paid a TB price for it and don't mind taking a hit with the paint color change on resale....then paint it like you want. If you plan to keep for a while and possibly turn it over for a profit as a collector car...try to restore without paint.

Some of the work a TB member has done to refinish paint has been incredible....he might could give some insight as to how to restore without painting.

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Old 10-24-2013, 04:10 PM   #131
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The car I was referring to is not mine but is (desperately) for sale. The owner paid $7000 for it but that was 7 years ago when it ran and has sat outside since then. Due to changing family situations he never followed through with his restoration/V8 plans. Still looking for a good home for it.

My Bertone's lower bronze paint can be restored to life but the gold upper areas is just too faded to salvage. My Volvo wagon V8 is running and about to be kicked out of the garage so the Bertone will be a Winter project.
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Old 10-24-2013, 04:29 PM   #132
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wooow- Man, thats awesome! i cant even explain my feelings. you should be lucky as ... this car with that color combination is the nicest bertone i´ve ever seen.. what a find! total WIN! sorry but im so jealous and happy at the same time.. ( i found this thread today, sorry for my late reaction)
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Old 03-20-2015, 08:17 PM   #133
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Got caught up with the rest of my life and am now back to the Bertone. A lesson that everyone should accept is that it is not a good idea to try to restore more than one car at a time.

The engine runs now if you want to catch up on a couple years of part time engine work here is the separate running gear thread: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=259627

Because the passenger door glass had remained up stuck to the weather stripping when the regulator was lowered I started by disassembling that door. Window and regulator was easy but with the door card off I thought that would be a good place to start the leather restoration.

While the door card leather was sun faded it was not completely dried out and hard especially across the top.







This card itself was the first of many that came off without finding significant damage to the less than adequate fiber backing. It was really pretty much as new.

I have had great success with leather restoration using Leatherique's products and this one is no exception. I ordered a pint (16 oz) of their dye custom matched to a sample of the original leather and requested that the sheen match as well as the color. They did a great job doing that.

The results of this product line is completely dependent on the preparation for the dye application. The card leather was treated with their Leather Rejuvinator and cleaned with their Pristine Clean product. As an extra step uncovered in a conversation with George at Leatherique the leather was cleaned again with rubbing alcohol. All that took the leather finish very near to tanned leather.

The dye was applied with a 2" short bristle brush in a very thin coat intended to soak into the pores rather than as a 'paint'. You do not want to make it look like a coat of paint.



In the mean time I disassembled the wood and stainless trim and polished and refinished. The highly figured wood is really natural wood and deserves a finish to show it off. Lots of experience in finishing high end gun stocks so I knew how but it is still a lot of work to get it right.





Hard to capture the true finish on the wood but it is there.
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Old 03-20-2015, 08:45 PM   #134
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I like.
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Old 03-24-2015, 09:06 AM   #135
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The engine now starts reliably but needs timing and probably other work. More on that later.

But . . . I got started on the seat reconditioning.

How's this for 34 year old leather?





Really in good shape but sun faded so the finish is not completely even.

The carpet also needs dye/paint which it will get.


Great to be moving on this thing again.
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Old 04-02-2015, 05:24 PM   #136
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. . . and here are the pictures of the passenger seat refinish. This thing is really looking good.







Center console up next. Cleaned but not re-dyed.





Anyone know how to get the cigar lighter out?

Last edited by TestPoint; 04-02-2015 at 07:03 PM..
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Old 04-02-2015, 10:31 PM   #137
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It should unscrew from the bezel.
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Old 04-03-2015, 12:25 PM   #138
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Holy smokes! look at that console now!
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Old 04-03-2015, 12:32 PM   #139
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Let it set for about a week or 2.
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Old 04-03-2015, 01:57 PM   #140
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Hey Tom , I know you're very thorough but just curious did you remove the back side of the seat along with the small side panels?
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Old 04-04-2015, 09:33 PM   #141
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Took it all apart. Never could figure out how to remove the seat tilt knob so that side panel got re-dyed in place with clean up. Removed the map pocket on the back of the seat. The driver side map pocket elastic is broken so it will get fixed.
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Old 04-18-2015, 10:29 PM   #142
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Got most of the interior out and am working on the package or hat shelf. It was very faded but restorable. The shelf itself as well as the rear trim with the plastic vent was all vinyl although Volvo advertised that the Bertone interior was all leather. Disassembled and cleaned with alcohol and a paint scuff pad and applied an initial thin coat of Leatherique's leather dye. It works very well on vinyl also as it is a flexible vinyl paint.



The plastic vents were not salvageable and I bought a pair of black vents. The dark colors, black, blue seem to survive much better than the tan.


Using the old board as a pattern a new one was cut from the tempered hardboard. Where cut and drilled the hardboard 'feathers' and needs sealed with an exterior enamel for moisture protection.




The black vents were painted with the closest plastic paint color and left to harden for several days before application of the dye. Reattached the dyed vinyl to the new hardboard with contact adhesive and 1/4" staples. Used cotton quilt batten to substitute for the original foam padding between the backing board and the the vinyl.




I used aluminum pop rivets with securing washers to secure the shelf to the vent trim.




After all that I applied a second coat of the Leatherique dye to the assembled shelf.

Last edited by TestPoint; 04-19-2015 at 10:13 AM..
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Old 04-18-2015, 10:53 PM   #143
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Nice work. Where did you get hardboard?
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Old 04-18-2015, 10:54 PM   #144
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Lowes.

With the dash completely apart it was time to address the little leak in the heater core from sitting in a barn for 19 years.





Never seen copper pipe break like that. It also had a leak in the core itself.

Core back in the box ready to go back in. I just used some hardware store adhesive backed foam insulation to seal the sides and bottom of the core to the box.


Last edited by TestPoint; 06-14-2015 at 07:13 AM..
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Old 04-18-2015, 11:12 PM   #145
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Old 05-11-2015, 07:47 PM   #146
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Finished all the leather interior.

Next on the agenda is the interior and trunk carpet. The interior is faded and generally overall dirty but not any baked on milkshakes or other stubborn stains. Took it all out and spent more than an hour vacuuming, air hose blowing the deep down grit and then vacuuming it again.

The carpet is in good physical shape but certainly not acceptable due to fading.



Then spot cleaning of the extra soiled places with Clorox Cleaner and a good scrub. Then I mixed a pint of laundry Clorox in two gallons of hot water with a cup of Tide liquid laundry detergent and sprayed the mixture on all the carpet with a 2 gal pump up sprayer and let it soak for a half hour while I got my pressure washer set up. Big pressure washer so I turned the volume down to about what you would find in a spray car wash. In fact, using a spray car wash with soap then rinse would be pretty much what I did . . . except for the Clorox. It was amazing the dirty water that was produced by the rinse. Dirty car wash bucket nasty and this car only has 25k miles on it. Bet it will even smell better.

After 6 hours in the pleasant 90* Georgia sun it was dry and after a vacuum the carpet looked as new physically but it was a few shades short of original.



The 'gold' carpet showing in the middle of the front piece is the trunk carpet. It cleaned up after the same treatment as new having been out of the sun lo these many years. It is also a different color than the interior based on the unfaded under seat areas.

NOW . . . after long research I need to find the formula for the RIT Dye mixture that will approximate the original color. I stole a large plastic storage bin from the wife that is big enough for complete immersion of the carpet pieces.

Anyone have any experience doing this? Oh! By the way . . . I am color blind in the green/gold area of the spectrum. It is not that I don't see those colors, it is just that I do not see them as everyone else does.

After a week exploring carpet dye I have come to the conclusion that dying carpet is not a viable solution. The RIT Dye tech support center says they do not support use on auto carpet as it will come off on shoes, etc. The SEM folks say their carpet color product must be carefully brushed in or the carpet fiber will be hard as if it had been painted . . . which it would have been. Even Leatherique says that their dye should be brushed in with a toothbrush.

On to OEM replacement carpet.

Last edited by TestPoint; 05-19-2015 at 08:56 AM..
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Old 05-19-2015, 09:03 AM   #147
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Default Coverelay dash cover installation

Since I have to take the dash out to replace the leaking heater core I thought it was the appropriate time to cover the dash. Coverlay makes a cover that is difficult to notice without close inspection. Ordered one from the limited color selection and it going to need to be painted to get closer to the original.

I got the instrument panel out but not without breaking the speedometer tamper device off. First I had to remove the speedometer cable from the transmission in order to get enough slack to move the panel out enough to get to the tamper device.

CAUTION: Don't pull the panel out by force. The first thing that will break is the plastic locking nut on the speedometer cable. Then you will have nothing holding the cable in.

Once the tamper device was off a simple twist of the locking nut and the entire panel came out. I did remove the steering wheel because it is easy and in the way.

Most of the connectors are unique and do not require much documentation. There are three single connector wires. The red/white goes to the tach. I sorta lost track of the other two but noted the wire colors on the other hobby car panel with a Sharpie. If I can't figure it out I know how to and will come back and document the connections.

Following CleanFlametraps guidance on the mystery connectors removal I got the dash out without breaking anything else.



The 3M tape solution is attractive but the temperature specs on the tape is 200*F. While the interior may not get beyond 140* or so the dash itself will certainly hit 200*. The Coverlay Sil-Bond RTV 4500 is rated to 400*F.

Done . . . for better or worst.

I used an electric sander to sand the raised cracks and to rough up the surface for the adhesive.



I followed through on my flash of adequacy regarding using 3M Super Strong Attachment Tape. Ran strips all around the edges that the cap instructions say requires a silicone adhesive seal which I applied. The instructions are to attach at the edges leaving the open areas free to move. Hope that doesn't mean bubble/warp up. The intent is that the double backed attachment tape would hold the cap tightly to the dash until the high strength adhesive had time to set.

Note on the tape: the backing of the double backed tape is a little difficult to get off. It would be a good idea to peal them off before applying the silicone as it took me 15 minutes to get all that off and the work time of the silicone is supposed to be 10 minutes.



Seemed to have worked. The cap is held down pretty tight to the dash. Now, if it just won't release before the silicone sets.



Plastic bags of water was plan B.

Now, to address the part about the Coverlay brown, which was the closest selection to the dark palomino of the original color. It has got to be refinished and I have yet to find a close match. The local auto color shop is ordering in a can of SEM Palomino but I suspect that it is going to be too light. Next closest if the SEM Camel.



The Bertone dash does not seem to be a 'normal' color for Volvo's of the period. The local paint shop says that they can mix a match for only a few dollars more but I would have to provide the spray equipment. I have that. Leatherique could do that also with their vinyl paint that they claim is suitable for dashes. Cost $50 vs. $20 for a can of SEM vinyl paint.

Decision for another day.

Now I have to figure out how to get the heater core out.

If I wasn't having so much fun I might get frustrated about now.
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Old 05-19-2015, 10:36 AM   #148
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wow, you're going nuts with this thing!!! keep up the good work.

This is the most baller factory paint job offered on the 200 series.
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Old 06-10-2015, 01:35 PM   #149
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Default Ash tray

Didn't feel like a big project this morning so thought it was time to restore the ash tray.

Took it all apart and did a little media blasting.



A shot of galvanizing primer and some pop rivets and it is all pretty again.



The new carpet has arrived and is going through its 'relaxing' exercises in the sun before any installation efforts are made.

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Old 06-10-2015, 01:47 PM   #150
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nice work on the ash tray
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