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Old 02-13-2016, 01:10 PM   #51
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Looking really good. Love the water-jet parts!
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Old 02-15-2016, 04:06 PM   #52
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I really like the up pipe idea
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Old 04-23-2016, 12:04 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Then I raided a 960. I got the engine wiring harness so I could dig out the coil pack wiring:

[img
http://lloydd.angrywaffles.net/122/122_538.jpg[/img]

And grabbed the coilpacks:



Then I talked to Beust tuning who's going to do the coil on plug conversion, and I forgot to get the coil drivers, which I didn't know were separate on this generation. So these parts are basically useless, I'll need to use newer coilpacks which have the drivers built in. They're better anyway. And Beust provides the wiring harness too.
I've been trying to get a hold of best tuning for two weeks solid for that same 4.4 coil over plug conversion and they will not respond how'd you get a hold of them??

Last edited by carfreak; 07-10-2016 at 06:27 PM.. Reason: Mistakes
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Old 04-23-2016, 01:24 AM   #54
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Dude come on, don't quote a 15 picture post just to ask a question. Feel free to edit that down.

Aaron who runs Beust is local to me so I know him personally. I'll ask how the best way for you to get ahold of him is.

Edit: I got ahold of him right away, he says the website should be working and you can also use his direct email at Tightmopedman9@gmail.com.
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Old 04-23-2016, 10:36 AM   #55
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I'd forgotten that you were so close (to the Broomfield office, where I am right now), I'd have tried to swing by if I had remembered, loving the build and would have liked to have taken a closer look and said hello.
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Old 04-23-2016, 06:14 PM   #56
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You'd be welcome any time. PM me for my phone number next time you're available.

I guess I can post half an update so it's not a worthless bump. I got my intake adapter tacked together, I'll finalize it after I get an alternator installed and the idle control motor laid out.

Trimmed it a little more for extra angle:



Clears the PCV box enough:



Should be able to get a hose out without hitting the steering box, I might have to trim the corner of the manifold itself though:



And plenty of room for a throttle linkage. I have a plan for that already.



My welder has the up-pipe parts so as soon as he frees up a few hours I'll post that too. After that will be the engine mounts.

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Old 05-11-2016, 02:15 AM   #57
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Finally got the carpet out so I can start to saw the tunnel:



And today I got the up pipe welding done!





Good fender clearance, a little tight but that lip with the notch can be trimmed back another 1/4" or so.





Redrilled the CHRA for re-clocking to the new orientation.



Crap, bent one of the fins on the compressor wheel. I thought I was careful but it's been kind of tossed around my workbench for about a year now.



I'm going to have to get creative with the oil drain, it pretty much hits the flange now.



Boom. Pretty close to final mounting position.





It's a little crooked which puts the cold side closer to the head than I like, I think I'll drill out the up pipe holes so it can be straighter and maybe allow the cold side to rotate a little more.



Hot flange is pretty close to the intake tube here, have to research how much heat silicone can take, might have to figure out some heat shielding. Another reason to rotate it just a little more.



But it's a good position for the outlet, straight at the intercooler between the intake and the lower radiator hose. I'm really pretty excited at how well this is laying out.





Doesn't really leave much room for an air filter but I can go into the fender well if I really need to.

Next, cut the floor to get clearance for the transmission, then pull things out and drop the crossmember for motor mount fabrication. While the car is apart, I'll start working on turbo oil and cooling lines, and cooling pipes in general. Once the motor is situated well, I'll lay waste to my credit card and buy the radiator/fans/intercooler core, all of which I have picked out.

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Old 05-11-2016, 12:36 PM   #58
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Very cool! looks well planned, and great execution.
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Old 05-11-2016, 11:41 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LloydDobler View Post
Dude come on, don't quote a 15 picture post just to ask a question. Feel free to edit that down.

Aaron who runs Beust is local to me so I know him personally. I'll ask how the best way for you to get ahold of him is.

Edit: I got ahold of him right away, he says the website should be working and you can also use his direct email at Tightmopedman9@gmail.com.
My bad man didn't mean for that to happen
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Old 07-05-2016, 03:18 AM   #60
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Still unemployed, doing some low budget things to the car to pass the time. I've also been doing a bunch of routine maintenance on my other cars, and car work to make some side money. That's basically charity from friends and family who would rather see me get paid than a random shop.

I did a full motor swap in a 2007 C70 for my dad
I installed an intercooler and AC hose in his 95 850 (he hit a curb and damaged them)
I installed and aligned a tailgate on a '94 940
I replaced the accessory belts for both my brother in law and nephew
I installed a stereo and starter motor in a 2003 Subaru Outback for a friend
I installed an AC compressor, hoses, and receiver/dryer in my 01 V70
I installed new front control arms in my 03 C70, the aftermarket ones I put in 20k miles ago wore out prematurely.

So consistently working on cars, and cutting way back on snacking since January I've lost about 20 pounds so far this year.

On with the update:

Back when I did my axle swap I found that the 1800E parking brake cable that came with the axle was too short to work in this car. I recently found out from Ian at Hi Performance Auto that the 140 parking brake cable is longer but otherwise the same design, and is still available without breaking the bank. So I gambled on it and it was perfect. I had to slightly shorten the pull rod but otherwise it worked perfectly.

Attaches to the axle like factory:



Connects to the parking brake lever like factory, and worked perfectly with the brackets I made previously:



I think I can poke out the old rubber holder, enlarge the hole above the suspension bolt and use the rubber hanger just like the other cars.



The only problem is this bangs against the body of the car, but I think I'll just cut that tunnel material out as it does basically nothing.



So now I have a parking brake for the first time in 6 years.

Moving on, I bought this mini 90 amp alternator which is actually overkill in the small department, but it should work great. I'm only running the engine, lights, fan, wipers, and stereo.



With the alternator question answered, I removed the motor again.



I bought a chevy single V pulley to go with the V belt alternator and gain myself another half inch clearance for the radiator fan. This will be great because I've selected the fans and radiator, and designed the intercooler and I'm basically out of space in the front of the car. I was needing another 1/4 inch and if I used the serpentine belt pulley I'd probably have had to notch the fan shroud. The really cool part is that it's already got the right dimensions to mount backwards and tuck tight up against the motor.



Here it is compared to the serp belt pulley:



I will have to modify the timing belt cover as it just barely hits on this side. I could probably just melt it with a heat gun and make it work.



I'll have to copy this bolt pattern to the pulley, and I have to get a center adapter bushing as the pulley bore is 5mm bigger than the crank snout.



I'll have to cut that extra material off the top of my engine mount plate:



The brackets to mount it should be really easy to design and build. It'll be about an inch lower than in this picture.



With the engine laid over like this I can start to lay out and modify the coolant and turbo piping.



And after that, I removed the crossmember from the car again:



Made a template for the motor mount brackets:



They mount like this:



And I have the engine mount plates fixtured up to weld in the mounts:




So now I have to wait for my welding buddy to be free again but it will be a moderately easy task to cut out those plates, weld them to the crossmember, and then make a T out of tubing and weld it to the engine plates with some gussets. Long term I'm kind of worried about aluminum developing cracks but it's all very beefy so I probably have nothing to worry about.

Also while I wait for my friend I can get started on the alternator mounting, the pulley modifications, chopping out the transmission tunnel and re-routing the brake lines, and begin designing the transmission crossmember. I'm trying as hard as I can to do mostly low cost stuff, but like with the alternator there are some things I just have to spend money on to make progress.

So my goal of June 2016 has come and gone, the new goal is June 2017. Lots of progress should be made this winter, I will be spending on credit as needed to keep this project going.
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Old 07-05-2016, 03:32 AM   #61
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Cool project!

A couple of comments:

You should consider welding a 90 degree elbow to the compressor outlet. That will keep you from having to stick a silicone coupler so close to the turbine inlet flange.

I would not recommend replacing the stock crank pulley like that. The stock pulley is also the harmonic balancer for the engine. Running without one can cause all kinds of headaches (like snapped cranks). You can probably get a serp pulley for the alternator. I know you're tight on space, but removing the balancer is asking for trouble.
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Old 07-05-2016, 04:40 AM   #62
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Thanks for the input!

Great suggestion, I definitely will be welding an aluminum elbow on the compressor housing. My welder actually suggested it when I showed him that photo and asked him if I was going to melt the silicone.

The crank pulley issue is an interesting one, there's lots of anecdotal info and scientific info. It seems to be a crapshoot from car to car. I've heard of Porsche engines disintegrating from people replacing the dual mass flywheel with a single mass, I've heard of Ford V8s breaking the crank from having the wrong harmonic balancer... Yet there is a solid lightweight pulley available from Unorthodox Racing that was sold by ARD and lots of guys run them on whiteblock 5 cylinder engines with no problems. I've heard of a couple cases of the pulley damaging the serpentine belt but obviously that wouldn't be an issue for me.

The good news is that I'm not modifying anything to be irreversible so if I have any problems (short of blowing my motor) I can switch back. Supposedly the alternator has a standard shaft, the company sells it with either a serpentine or V belt pulley (but I couldn't find where to buy it with serpentine, it's a fairly new product). And the brackets I plan to build won't affect which belt I use. But the simplicity and space savings, combined with the fairly large number of guys running the UR pulley with no problems is enough that I'm gonna try it this way for a start. Time will tell if I'm an idiot for not heeding your advice.
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Old 07-05-2016, 11:56 PM   #63
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I've always wondered why more of the conversions didn't do the TB like that. Makes a lot of sense to me
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Old 09-26-2016, 01:56 PM   #64
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Good to see there is still some progress on this swap.
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Old 09-30-2016, 01:08 AM   #65
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Yeah I'm coming up on 2 years not running though and it's starting to bug me. The crossmember has been sitting at my buddy's shop for almost 3 months now, but it's hard to bitch at him because he does my stuff for free. Well not really free, but I do CAD work for him in exchange so as a one man shop he can't afford to turn away or delay cash customers. I mean, I stopped by his place at 6 PM on a friday night and he was frantically assembling a pair of Subaru cylinder heads to make his promised delivery. Dude is busy.

The good news is I'm no longer unemployed so progress will continue.
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Old 12-12-2016, 04:09 AM   #66
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Glad to say I can finally update some real progress. I got my welding buddy to give me some time. A month ago he finished welding these brackets which I then primed:



Then I fixtured up the pan with a ratchet strap:





And I cut cardboard templates for the motor mounts:



Then I ordered some square tubing and cut the pieces myself, so all he had to do is weld.





So today he carved out some time and welded the parts all together:





And the finished product, everything lines up as it should:



I have the clearance I wanted for the control arm:



A little more than I planned under the pan:



But the lower part of the pan is flush and parallel to the crossmember which is probably most important. I don't want this hanging down.



And back home ready to go in the car. I bought extra large washers and gave myself 1/2" of clearance in the mounts, so I can move the engine forward and backward as needed, to position it where I want. Also the fat washers allow me to adjust up and down or left and right by simply enlarging the holes in the brackets. So I should be able to fine tune the engine position perfectly:



That was the most frustrating part of the last 6 months, having the crossmember out of the car. This meant the car was immobile on jack stands, in the spot of my garage where I do all my work. So I had a couple other big jobs on my other cars that I had to do on the crowded side, which was not fun. Now that these mounts are done the crossmember does not have to come back out of the car ever again. I will though, to get it powder coated after all the other work is done.

In addition to finishing that, I got a holiday bonus at my new job which means car parts!

Radiator and fan kit! Shamelessly stolen from AndrewNance's project.



This is a 13 x 18 core but it's 2 inches thick. It claims to be able to handle the cooling needs of up to 400 hp motors but we'll see about that. The fan is made for this radiator by flex-a-lite, and at 2.5" is the thinnest fan setup I could find. I like having the two fans, I can use the stock Volvo high/low fan logic to run one or both depending on how hot things are.



But the point of buying it is that it fits with very little modification to the car. I just have to widen the core supports.



So I did! This is the first irreversible damage to the car, no going back now! Heck, even if I did go back to the original motor this radiator is a far superior setup to the original. Also of course the damage isn't really irreversible, it would just require a couple repair panels from a junkyard car.



So while I had the sawzall out I decided to cut out the transmission tunnel:





I also bought an intercooler core but it hasn't arrived yet so no pictures. With the motor mounts done the next step is to try and fit the transmission into the car, and cut away the floorboards and firewall a half inch at a time until it clears. Then I'll know if I need any pedal modifications or anything like that. Between getting these parts done and having a job, I have much more motivation to work on this car again so I should have at least one more update before Christmas. My new goal is to have the car running by the annual import drag races which usually happen the first weekend in June.
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Old 12-12-2016, 10:55 AM   #67
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Those motor mounts came out great! And I wish I'd seen that radiator option before I bought my "universal" Northern Radiators one. It looks like much better quality. Keep up the good work.
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Old 12-15-2016, 01:23 AM   #68
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Holy ****! Two updates in a week? Yeah I have some motivation.

So things don't always work the way you want....



Just kidding, it goes in fine if you just tilt it under one side first. So Tuesday night I spent the whole evening re-assembling the suspension, the car is now back on its own wheels.



They attach to the engine very nicely. Right side:



Left side: You can see why I used such thick plate, since the bolts are fairly sparse and spread out.



But it goes back in generally where I wanted it.



Unfortunately the holes in the crossmember are pretty far off. The motor tilts waaaay back. I'll have to get a burr and elongate the front holes so I can tilt it down quite a bit.



The good news, I have plenty of room up front for everything. This is the radiator, fan, and a cardboard intercooler mockup all with room to move back toward the engine a little. Which is good because the intercooler is touching the grilles in this scenario.



I like this though, the crossmember is the lowest point.



Looks like the engine is slightly off to the left...



We'll deal with that later. Tonight I made a very simple alternator bracket.



Works great!



Plenty of clearance for the intake tubing.



I might have some trouble with an upper bracket though, these are basically the only two bolt holes available in that area. More research needed.



Still, great fit. I can definitely go to one size larger on the alternator if this one doesn't work for some reason.



But yeah, the engine is definitely off to the passenger side. Wonder what's up with that?



So now my up-pipe hits the fender.



Here you can see that the hole will have to go down a full bolt diameter to get the engine at the right angle.




So I'm not sure what's up with the engine misalignment, but I borked my mounts pretty badly. What sucks is that my oil pan centerline mark that you can see in my previous post is still lined up perfectly with the crossmember, and the pan clearance on the control arm is still right where I want it. So I somehow mis-communicated with myself, and things aren't quite adding up.

On the plus side, I think I can fix it by just changing the holes in the crossmember, but I'm worried a little about how severe the misalignment of the mounts will be. I'll have to see how easily bent those plates are. And if I can't bring the engine over to the driver's side I'll have a real problem. But I don't think that will be the case. If that turns out to be my biggest problem I'll take it, everything else is going pretty well so far.
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Old 12-15-2016, 11:49 AM   #69
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Looking great Lloyd! It's fun to see you're moving along. Our two builds are showing two completely different approaches to the same engine swap.
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Old 12-15-2016, 01:39 PM   #70
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I wish I had that kind of radiator clearance. I predict my e-fan situation will be less than desirable.
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Old 12-15-2016, 01:49 PM   #71
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I wish I had that kind of radiator clearance. I predict my e-fan situation will be less than desirable.
Try using a SPAL low-profile fan. I got one for my swap and it's barely 2" deep at the deepest point.
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Old 12-15-2016, 02:06 PM   #72
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It is progressing well now. It is worth strengthen the crossmember as the do have a habbit of ripping the tubes out where the lower wishbone bolt goes through. Should have mentioned sooner



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Old 12-15-2016, 03:11 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tfrasca View Post
Try using a SPAL low-profile fan. I got one for my swap and it's barely 2" deep at the deepest point.
I have one mounted as close to the radiator as possible and it sits about 3/8" from the water pump. I can't find any sort of shroud that works either. If I moved the radiator forward any I wouldn't have any room for an intercooler. That's why I need that 360 water pump deal so badly.
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Old 12-15-2016, 05:43 PM   #74
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If you need 360 parts you do know I am the biggest supplier of 300 series parts and have the short water pumps fo both Bxx and Bxxx engines (the short version)
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Old 12-15-2016, 06:23 PM   #75
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Yes, but can you get the WP pulley? I believe the correct part # for the B19 (B21/B23) pulley is 3283023 and the B200 (B230) pulley is 1346447. The shorter pumps are worthless without the matching pulley.

These are the only pics I can find and they're of the B19 pulley.



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