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Old 04-15-2019, 09:56 AM   #26
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Good deal! Check engagement teeth etc. The last one I bought for cheap turned out to be a turd. Luckily you can find parts for those things easily.
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Cool car. Smells period correct. Would follow through twisties again. A+
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Old 04-15-2019, 11:00 AM   #27
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Good deal! Check engagement teeth etc. The last one I bought for cheap turned out to be a turd. Luckily you can find parts for those things easily.
I figured it was probably worth the gamble because even as a core, the 4 cylinder WC units can run $200+ near me. Worse comes to worst, I throw some synchros and bearings in it. I'm not planning on putting much beyond 200hp through it.
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Old 04-15-2019, 04:01 PM   #28
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So far I have a lead on:
NA pistons
Good complete 16v head with all the accessories and manifolds
Set of GSXR 1000 ITB's with fuel rail

And already have:
T5 and adapter
B230FT engine (getting clearance NA pistons)
V70r/S60r fuel injectors
Dished flywheel and turbo pressure plate

Planning on:
Ebay $70 swirl pot
$30 High volume/low-pressure pump for swirl pot feed
Walbro 255lph for high-pressure
Yoshifab $100 clutch
Microsquirt OR Speeduino
EDIS wheel and VR sensor
Diesel ranger pilot bearing

I'm planning to cut the 16v intake plenum off and use some kind of rubber/silicone hose to join the ITB's to the trimmed down intake. Should be able to use a 7xx accelerator pedal and cable with the spool adapted to the ITBs. DIYAutotune EDIS wheel and sensor on the crankshaft to trigger a set of cheap JY LS coils. Planning to keep the engine on an angle and can run the stock exhaust manifold or build some kind of 4-1 header. I figure that should be enough noise/power for a ~2500 pound car. I'll also put new bearings in the engine and a set of rings to make the used pistons keep some seal and I won't feel as bad if I decide to wind it out once and a while .

I have a set of tan leather S60r seats that I'll wire up for some more comfort, plus the driver's seat is kinda broken and worn out.

So yeah, that's the tentative plan. 16v/ITB backed by a T5 and some eBay goodness.

Last edited by vwbusman66; 04-15-2019 at 04:09 PM..
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Old 04-15-2019, 10:04 PM   #29
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Thought you were turbo-ing the B20?
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Old 04-15-2019, 10:27 PM   #30
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Thought you were turbo-ing the B20?
That was the original long-term plan. I was originally planning on bringing this to college with whatever drivetrain I had in it and then realized a non-built budget B20 turbo may not be the most reliable for a 200-mile one-way trip. I had visions if keeping this car at home and picking up something else to drive to and from Morgantown with.

I did the math and realized I'd be better off spending the money and doing the swap I really wanted in the 142 and make that into a reliable street car than buying another project and throwing money, time, parts, and insurance at that too.

It's staying NA in the hope it'll be powerful enough to have fun but not run the risk of blowing up.
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Old 04-16-2019, 11:48 AM   #31
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Sounds like a fun project! I'll have to check it out sometime! Keep us posted.
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Old 04-21-2019, 09:57 PM   #32
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These'd look pretty cool...
Too bad they're $650.
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Old 04-29-2019, 11:22 AM   #33
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This arrived in the mail today.
Spotted it on FB marketplace for dirt cheap (like the manual cost less than shipping).


All the diagrams are there and its in good condition overall.
w00t
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Old 04-29-2019, 05:34 PM   #34
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This arrived in the mail today.
Spotted it on FB marketplace for dirt cheap (like the manual cost less than shipping).


All the diagrams are there and its in good condition overall.
w00t
Nice. I snagged one on ebay for like $12.... it's an impressively detailed little book. Fun to read just for the heck of it.
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Old 05-03-2019, 08:37 PM   #35
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142 is home and undercover for the first time in ~10 years.

Not sure what the plans are besides making it roadworthy and driving it. If I can get a job that pays roughly as well as my last one, 16v swap or a B20 turbo is feasible, but I'll have to wait and see.

How do the vent windows lock? Is there a lever on the bottom that I'm missing? I need to re-glue the upper hinges on the vent windows with rear view mirror glue.

Tomorrow will be a wash, buff, and wax day as the outside is filthy and covered in lichens. May also get into diagnosing the two nonexistent cylinders and horrible brake pedal and brake fluid leak.
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Old 05-04-2019, 06:46 PM   #36
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Nice looking car!
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Old 05-06-2019, 03:38 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by vwbusman66 View Post

How do the vent windows lock? Is there a lever on the bottom that I'm missing? I need to re-glue the upper hinges on the vent windows with rear view mirror glue.


There's a latch on each window, here is a link of examples iirc:


https://picclick.ca/Volvo-140-142-24...656519571.html

https://www.the-blueprints.com/vecto...6/volvo_142_l/
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Old 05-06-2019, 05:43 AM   #38
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^
I suspect he is asking about the door vent window locks.
They are small levers that are glued to the glass that rotate and "latch" behind the aluminum window frame to lock.
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Old 05-06-2019, 06:52 AM   #39
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^
I suspect he is asking about the door vent window locks.
They are small levers that are glued to the glass that rotate and "latch" behind the aluminum window frame to lock.
Originally. Most have fallen off & replaced with the EMPI sliding latches.
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Old 05-06-2019, 02:47 PM   #40
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Car looks great; congrats on getting it home. Should buff out nicely!

A nickel's worth of free advice - get it running well and on the road before you start any modifications. A solid "stage zero" in other words. Then approach each upgrade as a self contained small project that is doable in a weekend. Prep all the parts off the car to minimize downtime. The old pushrod Volvo engines are fun and easy to work on, chances are you can get it running pretty quickly.

Once you blow a project like this apart with grand plans for tons of upgrades and mods, reality sets in and the sheer amount of work in front of you will compound and it will seem like forever before the car is back on the road (if you do reach the finish line).

After approaching projects many different ways over the years - I'll say for a younger enthusiast just starting out, working mostly on your own, it's best to keep the car running and driving as much as possible. You will enjoy the process so much more. You won't know what the car really needs until you get some miles on it. Plus, the motivation of driving it again right away after a smaller manageable upgrade or repair will keep you moving towards the goal. You'll feel the instant results of whatever change you just made. Sort that out completely, then move on to the next thing.

When you're sitting there with a dead shell of a car in front of you, it's hard to see the finish line, and easy to start procrastinating.
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Old 05-06-2019, 02:51 PM   #41
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Nice 142! I'll reiterate the above. Definitely don't do what I did... 3 years later still assembling at a snails pace.
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Old 05-06-2019, 05:48 PM   #42
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Duder, at this point, the game plan is to get it roadworthy. Once I'm happy with that, the T5 will go in. I'm still not sold on the turbo B20 or NA b234 idea after staring at it today. I definitely understand the 'insurmountable project' challenge blowing a car apart can bring, and intend to heed your advice (and yours, R32).
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Old 05-06-2019, 05:49 PM   #43
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Any guesses or alternative diagnosis?

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Old 05-06-2019, 06:13 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by vwbusman66 View Post
Duder, at this point, the game plan is to get it roadworthy. Once I'm happy with that, the T5 will go in. I'm still not sold on the turbo B20 or NA b234 idea after staring at it today. I definitely understand the 'insurmountable project' challenge blowing a car apart can bring, and intend to heed your advice (and yours, R32).
Good plan!

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Any guesses or alternative diagnosis?
Well your rocker isn't moving at all, and it looks like the pushrod is not moving either, but can't see for sure. Meaning that if the pushrod isn't bent, and is the correct length, then it's either a lifter issue or a cam issue....right?

Calling Ian & Eric - HiPerfAuto batsignal...
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Old 05-06-2019, 06:57 PM   #45
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That's the flattest cam lobe I've ever seen. Time for a new bump stick.

Definitely check the valve and lifter to make sure they move freely but flat lobes are fairly common on these engines.
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Old 05-06-2019, 09:24 PM   #46
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That's the flattest cam lobe I've ever seen. Time for a new bump stick.

Definitely check the valve and lifter to make sure they move freely but flat lobes are fairly common on these engines.
Would that flat lobe explain the popping out of the carbs? It won't rev past ~2500rpm.
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Old 05-06-2019, 09:34 PM   #47
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It sure does. The exhaust has no where to go but back out the intake when it opens.
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Old 05-07-2019, 10:43 AM   #48
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Got busy with the buffer this morning- I'm pretty pleased- I can now see my own shadow in the paint as well as the color of the sky. There are so many small scratches, I may need to wet-sand with 2000 grit before buffing.





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Old 05-07-2019, 10:56 PM   #49
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It's a color! You may need a few rounds to get it properly shiny. Nice work though.

I have found that a round of IronX followed by clay bar before buffing will get rid of most of the crap that gets stuck in old paint. Will be much smoother and easier for the cutting compound to do its thing.
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Old 05-08-2019, 11:47 AM   #50
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Looking good man! Keep up the good work. And I agree, new cam.
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