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Old 10-10-2019, 02:09 PM   #1
rb92673
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Default Whatever_Racecar Endurance 745T

I thought I would start documenting my POS Lemons car. This forum has been very helpful to me along this journey.

So I bought this 85 745 with B230FT in 2017 to race 24 Hours of Lemons (24HoL). I had originally planned to build a 84 760T that my dad let sit in his backyard since about 1988, but this car was already caged and was almost ready to go.

Car was basic 1985 745T. It had a stock T3 turbo, cut springs and that was about it.



Wiring was in bad shape. Car did not run.



I didn’t really have much experience with wiring or anything outside of basic DIY car stuff. Brakes, changing shocks/springs, exhaust swap out, etc. I found a green book for wiring and started labeling and tracing everything. Since this is a race car and will never see street use again, I started removing unnecessary wiring to make it easier to troubleshoot.



After a while I found things like a missing over-boost switch, fuel pumps wired incorrectly, stuff just disconnected, etc. and it fired up. Seemed to idle and run pretty good, but was running pretty rich. A new FPR and I was ready for a track day to shake it down.

After a few 20 minute sessions on track it had developed an exhaust leak.



Three studs on the turbo had backed out then sheared off.



These were too far to drill out so I found a shop in Santa Ana, CA that burned them out. Jerry’s Broken Drill and Tap Removal. http://brokentap.com/

I replaced the hardware with nice locking nuts and new studs and thought we would be good. Little did I know, but we would have the same exact problem at our first race 24HoL Button Terrible Sept 2017. We didn’t break any studs, but we did lose a couple.




We managed to finish the race, even with a couple hours off track for some repairs. We did have an intermittent power loss that would occur in some corners, we traced it down to a bad splice in the hall sensor shielded wire after the race. Suspension was sloppy, we would find out later the shocks were completely blown out and we were basically just racing on springs.



After the race I removed the engine wiring harness and double checked every wire end to end and made necessary repairs. I also safety wired every stud between the turbo and downpipe.
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Old 10-10-2019, 02:10 PM   #2
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In March 2018 we entered a true 24 hour race at Buttonwillow with Lucky Dog. Most 24HoL races are really ~14.5 hours with 8 hours on Saturday and 6.5 hours on Sunday. There was about 25 cars running the 24 hour race and we were the slowest one. 6 lbs of boost, but ran for the full 24 hours. With about 3-4 hours left in the race, one of my drivers came in after a spin and said something was wrong with the M46 transmission. Seemed to work fine on upshifts, but downshifts would slip. Probably the one way clutch in the overdrive.

Josh @ Yoshifab is a friend of a friend and has offered me lots of advice in getting the car running and keeping it on track. I told him my m46 was toast and so we used my car for Josh to fabricate parts for CD009 swaps. I found a low mileage JK400 version of the CD009 from a 370z and dropped it and my car off at Josh’s shop.



CD009 with bell housing cut off next to my old m46. You can see how far back the shifter would be in the stock position.



Bellhousing removed from M46 and Deeworks plate on the CD009.







Some pictures of the CD009 in the car with prototype Yoshifab transmission mount. I used a stock pressure plate and a clutch disk that Yoshifab supplied. I also have a temporary shifter that has been on there for four races now.
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Old 10-10-2019, 02:21 PM   #3
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Hey I saw your car on his lift the last time I was around San Diego. Good going.
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Old 10-10-2019, 02:26 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
Hey I saw your car on his lift the last time I was around San Diego. Good going.
Josh is a super nice guy and really helped me out by suggesting the Nissan transmission versus a T5. We have three full races on the trans now and it has been great. No more crunchy gear changes.

More to come...
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Old 10-10-2019, 05:48 PM   #5
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Excited to see the progress, the CD009-redblock swap is on my radar now
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Old 10-14-2019, 11:28 AM   #6
rb92673
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A little more on the CD009 swap. Here is a picture of the front half of the drive shaft that Yoshifab had made for me.



The front of the shaft connects to the transmission with spline yoke and then connects to the stock rear shaft after the bearing support with another spline. When testing the shifting, the shaft was sliding too far back out of the transmission and the slide yoke was rubbing on the shifter. This was fixed with by stiffening up the support bearing by filling it with 3M Windo-weld.

Here is my temporary shifter with custom wood shift know.



1-4 shifting is super smooth, 5th gear takes a while to get used to without a reverse lockout.

On the track it is basically an extra gear. Where I used to be mostly 3-4, now I am 3-4-5. I have not used 6th on track.

M46 Nissan
1 4.03 3.794
2 2.16 2.324
3 1.37 1.624
4 1.00 1.271
5 0.79 1.00
6 x.xx 0.794

I now have three full races on the transmission without issues. Over 50 races hours, less pit stops.
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Old 10-14-2019, 11:59 AM   #7
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We competed again in the 24HoL 2018 Buttonwillow and Lucky Dog 2019 Buttonwillow 24 race. Before the races, we updated the suspension Turbobricks style with some 2.5” 300# springs, on the stock perches. I cut the springs to get to the ride height it was at before. We then put some Bilstein HDs in front and KYBs in the rear. The shocks and struts we had in before were completely blown, basically the springs were our only suspension. I bought some 200# Moog springs for a Ford and cut them down in the back.



The ride is better, but it is not great. I think I need to do a full coilover in the front with shorter inserts and a stiffer spring. Same for rear.

After the Lucky Dog 24, a friend wanted me to come to 24HoL Sonoma. He had a celebrity driving with him and was going to field a second car so that his drivers got more drive time. The celebrity was going to film the race for his ‘reality’ show, so reality sometimes requires re-shoots. I offered to bring my Volvo as it was pretty reliable and I thought it was ready to go.

There was only about 2 weeks between the races, and a few days to go I started making sure everything was tight in the engine bay and that is when I noticed the T3 turbo was leaking exhaust between the hot and cold side. I tried tightening it up, but it didn’t work. Not knowing what to do I ordered a T04E that arrived the day I was supposed to leave for the 8+ hour drive to Sonoma.

I didn’t really know what I was doing, and was unprepared for the larger cold side of the turbo. I managed to get the stock oil and water lines connected and cobbled together some hoses to connect to the stock air box. We left about 2 AM for the race and got through tech at the very last minute. I did not have time to adapt the waste gate activator so I wired the waste gate open. I figured it would run with very little boost, but that was okay.



It was raining in the morning, but my first driver said it felt faster even in the wet. Another driver went in for an hour who was really slow. I put in my third driver and it started to dry up. The third driver came in after about an hour with a blown head gasket. Thankfully he noticed it starting to go and brought it in. Just a slight expansion in the number one cylinder. When I reviewed the video the T04E was developing 12 PSI with the waste gate wired open.




We replaced the head gasket. It’s pretty obvious it’s not the first time the head has been off. We had it back on and ready to go that night. The next day I took the car out for the first time to take the green flag. As soon as the car started building any boost it would dramatically lose power. Check all connections, intake leaks, timing, etc. After many hours we packed up and went home early.

We managed to take a picture with the Celebrity dressed as the Celebrity.




I later changed out the tank pump and AMM.



Some testing determined that was not the problem either. Fed up without any way to troubleshoot other than firing the parts cannon, I decided to install Microsquirt.

Last edited by rb92673; 10-15-2019 at 09:47 AM..
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Old 10-14-2019, 10:49 PM   #8
Vol242vo
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Are those 2.5 inch coils on stock perches? Do they really seat properly?
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Old 10-15-2019, 09:46 AM   #9
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Are those 2.5 inch coils on stock perches? Do they really seat properly?
Yes, they are 2.5". No they don't.

I bought some spring perches from Kaplhenke so I could use the stock bearings on top and they sit on the stock perches on the bottom. They rotate and make a lot of noise on the bottom. Not the best solution. They are also cut at the bottom so that doesn't help.

At full droop the spring would come out of the bearing, so I put some ~10# helper springs on top.
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