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Old 10-20-2019, 03:20 PM   #1
fatcatbestcat
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Default Hacked: Getting a '67 144S Back On the Road

Right, before we get to the images, some backstory. I was looking for a project car to fill my time, and I'd gotten into the routine of checking my local Kijiji classifieds for unwanted projects. I narrowed it down to these three cars;

1) A 1969 Buick Riviera with a 425 - $800 (it sold like, the day after the ad was posted)
2) A 1976 Mercedes 300D which was mint, just in pieces (sold the day I called the seller up)
3) A 1996 Impala SS (the owner never got back to me)

So then, Kijiji refreshed, and applied filters that I hadn't checked before (usually, I filter out cars under $500 to get rid of those plebs with '59 Impalas listed for $59). The first ad that came up was for this car, a 1967 Volvo 144S. For $200. I rang the seller up and he confirmed the price was accurate. I drove up the next day to see if it was legit, and a month later, it was delivered. In total, for the car, the parts included, the U-Haul trailer fee and gas money cost me $530.

I realize I'll probably spend well over ten times that on it, but hey, it's a neat car.
The car's a '67, but the previous owner swapped in a B20B, M41 O/D transmission and a later-model rear-end.


The grill is held in with nothing but hopes and dreams. This car came with ZERO fasteners or bolts.


The engine. Note that I have a fiberglass FR fender, and a mismatched steel FL. Also, the tires are 165 spares.


Apparently the fiberglass fenders take different bolts than the steel ones. Fun.


While the interior is terrible, the floors are rust-free.


Some of the parts included with the car. I need to find a new rear bench (since this one doesn't exist).


The car came with five of those steelies (with Volvo hubcaps) and five of those 'Corona' rims.


This is definitely the car's worse side. You can see how small my garage is.


The view from the driver's seat. Note the original blue paint. Hopefully I don't get hantavirus or something.


This is the worst of the rust on the car. I have patch panels, and a welder.


I just had to resize like six images. RIP
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Old 10-20-2019, 03:26 PM   #2
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Something's fishy. The car has a '72 wood grained dash and short shifter but the door handles are '67-'71.

What's the VIN #?
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Old 10-20-2019, 03:30 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
Something's fishy. The car has a '72 wood grained dash and short shifter but the door handles are '67-'71.

What's the VIN #?
According to the registration, it's a '67, but I'll look again.
Ok...on the paperwork, the VIN is 11930.... that doesn't seem right.
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Old 10-20-2019, 03:53 PM   #4
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It could be correct. 11930 is in the range for a '67 144.



Was the dash swapped and a late tunnel welded in?
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Old 10-20-2019, 04:09 PM   #5
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Was the dash swapped and a late tunnel welded in?
I have no clue. I only know of the engine/trans/diff swap and the grill being different.
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Old 10-20-2019, 04:29 PM   #6
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The grill is correct for a '67 but the front panel has been swapped for a later one. Early front panels didn't have the vertical vent slits between the bumper brackets.
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Old 11-08-2019, 12:33 PM   #7
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Update:

Been a while since I've really done anything to the car, I've instead been doing mostly research and doing parts runs, as well as figuring out exactly what I'm going to need for the car.
My biggest obstacle at the moment is finding bolts and fasteners for the car, since the car came with very few (if any). Every time I try and mount a part to the car, I cry because I need to pay $60 to get two or so bolts shipped direct from Europe. What I SHOULD do is make a list of all the bolts I'm missing, and actually, that's what I will do.

-Bolts for the fenders (the FR is fiberglass and takes different bolts from the steel FL)
-Hood hinge bolts
-bolt to mount the hinge to the hood
-Seat mounting bracket bolts
-probably some more that I haven't found yet

EDIT: I also figured out what's going on with the car (in terms of mismatched parts).
The body shell and doors are from a '67 car (a factory 144S), but sometime around 1981, a previous owner painted it red (it was originally blue), swapped in a B20 and M41 from a '69 car, and replaced most of the interior components with 70's parts. The grille is from a '69 144S, apparently.

In the meantime, I got some really important parts as well as some aspirational items that I'd like to put on the car, but really don't need to.

-Vital: brand new bosch starter
-Vital: brand new fuel pump - no bolts for it >:(
-NE: MSD 6A Box
-NE: 'D' profile cam
-NE: used B20F cylinder head (I'm probably going to have it shaved down to try and get 10.5:1 compression so I can make that extra 3 horsepower)
-NE: Cloyes aluminum timing gear set (when I change the cam, I might as well)
-NE: Linkage kit for the redline DCOE manifold that came with the car - despite them being the same brand and the salesperson assuring me that it's the right kit, the heim joints are way too big, so I'll probably either get new joints, or drill the manifold's holes bigger.
-NE: vibration mounts for DCOEs

On a side note, I got the airbox off, and found a hole in the air cleaner element. Looking further, I found a squirrel's nest inside the airbox. The carbs seemed to be stuffed with stuff, so that'll be fun.

Last edited by fatcatbestcat; 11-08-2019 at 12:48 PM.. Reason: yes
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Old 11-08-2019, 03:17 PM   #8
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Do you have a bolt supply house or well-stocked hardware store somewhere in driving distance? I find that's the most cost effective way to get a bunch of hardware quickly for a project. Get a set of thread gages so you can check the nut plates and threaded holes in the car to determine needed thread size & pitch, then estimate lengths and make a list. I don't think you need to be ordering most of your nuts & bolts from Sweden unless there are some really unique / specific ones that are missing.

Vintage Volvos used a lot of Imperial fasteners with a few metric sprinkled in, and then at some point they went full metric. I'm sure Ian can chime in with the year (or year range) that changeover happened, but I think a 1967 car should be mostly Imperial (inch) fasteners. Are those commonly available at your local hardware store in Candanavia? For stuff like fenders, lights, and cosmetic parts a lower grade should be fine. Use Grade 8 for anything safety related, Grade 5 should be fine for most mechanical parts.

Looks like it should be a fun project...
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Old 11-08-2019, 03:45 PM   #9
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Nice find. Really weird that all the fasteners are gone. My '68 had all imperial fasteners, by the way.
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Old 11-09-2019, 11:28 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duder View Post
Do you have a bolt supply house or well-stocked hardware store somewhere in driving distance? I find that's the most cost effective way to get a bunch of hardware quickly for a project. Get a set of thread gages so you can check the nut plates and threaded holes in the car to determine needed thread size & pitch, then estimate lengths and make a list. I don't think you need to be ordering most of your nuts & bolts from Sweden unless there are some really unique / specific ones that are missing.

Vintage Volvos used a lot of Imperial fasteners with a few metric sprinkled in, and then at some point they went full metric. I'm sure Ian can chime in with the year (or year range) that changeover happened, but I think a 1967 car should be mostly Imperial (inch) fasteners. Are those commonly available at your local hardware store in Candanavia? For stuff like fenders, lights, and cosmetic parts a lower grade should be fine. Use Grade 8 for anything safety related, Grade 5 should be fine for most mechanical parts.

Looks like it should be a fun project...
I probably quoted too much there, but my local hardware store seems to have certain bolts, but not in nearly the quantity that I'm going to need them. I'm sure if I go downtown, I'd be able to find what I need though. Also, it does appear that most of these bolts are imperial.

An obstacle that I'm running into is the FR fender (the white fiberglass one) using a different bolt pattern from the FL. I have, like, 2 bolts to start with for the FL at least, but the only thing holding the FR in is hopes and dreams.
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Old 11-09-2019, 12:03 PM   #11
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McMaster has bags of SS bolts pretty cheap.

Well not TBcheap™ but real world cheap compared to buying onesies at your hardware store.
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Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi stock cna support?

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