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240 1988 244 - Front camshaft seal

O

onionz

New member
Joined
Feb 11, 2012
Location
Saint Paul, MN
Hiya! I have a oil leak that looks to be coming from behind the top of the timing belt. I assume this is the front camshaft seal. Could this be replaced with just basic tools? Could someone talk me through this, this would be more complex than the stuff I've done so far?
 
Ok, did some research and found out it's not that hard plus I can change my timing belt at the same time. A couple questions though. How can I keep the camshaft from spinning when I remove the sprocket? What size socket do I need to remove the sprocket?
 
trafton said:
Use the old timing belt to keep things from spinning
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It's probably bad for everything but if you are going to replace it anyway....I stick a pair of vise grips on the belt to pinch it together and hold it there. It is enough to loosen the cam bolts, not enough for the crank. If you do it make sure you look and listen for the belt slipping a tooth and check your timing marks are correct before installing the new belt.
 
I use an impact gun to loosen the cam bolt.

Get a Volvo cam seal and stay away from aftermarket crap.
 
The picture I saw of this being done, the guy has taken off the cam cover and is holding the cam shaft with vice grips and a piece of towel. I guess I need to take off the cover to get this job done? If so, what other maintenance can I do while it's off?
 
If your taking the entire timing belt cover off (upper and lower), I would go ahead and replace all seals, timing belt, tensioner and why not do the water pump while your at it? :)
 
Replace the camshaft seal, intermediate shaft seal and crankshaft seal all at one time.

Use an impact wrench to remove bolt from C shaft, & I Shaft and C/S. But torque it with a torque wrench when re'installing it. (IIRC 37 ft lbs)

Remove & wash all the T belt pullies off in gasoline & thenin hot soapy water if they are oily.(usually are if seals were leaking)

Also replace the t belt & it's tensioner while you're at it.

Put #1 cylinder on TDC *compression stroke* before removing old belt.

Make sure to start with C/S timing mark when installing new belt. Align the marks, but keep in mind the belt will "pull away" from C/S mark when you place belt on the other pullies.
 
I'd start by checking the breathers aren't blocked; few people bother to clear the nipple in the manifold. It may well be the oil leak goes away once you make the breathers work. Personally I never disturb those oil seals until I have to. My own 940 had original seals at 220K miles and they were dry.
 
Wren said:
Get a Volvo cam seal and stay away from aftermarket crap.
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The last few cam seals I've gotten from Volvo were a dark brown/black material that turned rock hard and crumbled after a year.

They seem to be changing suppliers on some of the older car's parts. The prices are a little cheaper, but the quality seems to be slipping.
 
wennstroma said:
The last few cam seals I've gotten from Volvo were a dark brown/black material that turned rock hard and crumbled after a year.

They seem to be changing suppliers on some of the older car's parts. The prices are a little cheaper, but the quality seems to be slipping.
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The last bunch I got were still the gray color and they work well. Do they say Volvo on them? You get them from a dealer or Tasca, etc.?
 
Wren said:
The last bunch I got were still the gray color and they work well. Do they say Volvo on them? You get them from a dealer or Tasca, etc.?
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Actually I haven't bought any for over a year, so things may be different now.

I got them from the dealer where I worked and they said Volvo on them and were in the original bags.

I do remember the last front crank seal I got being gray, maybe they're making the cam seals out of that now too? :x:
 
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