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Hackster's LSA / T56 2 door

Are they going to offer those bushings for sale do you know? Pending testing session. Those things just pillowed out yikes.

Yes that is the plan. Ill get some testing in over the next few weeks and we will see how they hold up. Yeah bushings are trashed.

Whoa you toasted those bushings. Should brake harder without locking up now. How much toe in are you running? With more rigidity i would guess you could get away with less toe in.

Too much Toe in before, too much toe out now. I am thinking Ill set it to 1/16" toe in when it gets aligned tomorrow. Agree, should be able to get less toe in. I also have way more brake than tire.

With Delrin, you can pretty much set it exactly where you want it without allowing for any deflection.

Its amazing the difference in turn in, feel and feedback. Possibly the best of any car I have driven.

What a bitchin' machine! look at those meats under there :oogle:

Thank you, yeah its a lot of tire for a 240, not nearly enough for the crown I am trying to run with though =)
 
You laugh but I hate the rain........I am really hoping for dry weather on Friday and Saturday.

You going to make it down?

Yup. I?ve been killing myself to get my car back in shape. I wouldn?t miss it. I keep checking the weather channel and it?s currently 70% chance of rain Friday and 60% chance Saturday. Rain is supposed to be sporadic for both days.
 
Yup. I?ve been killing myself to get my car back in shape. I wouldn?t miss it. I keep checking the weather channel and it?s currently 70% chance of rain Friday and 60% chance Saturday. Rain is supposed to be sporadic for both days.

so clear for portland until the drags open, then rain enough to shut down PIR? :-P
 
Yup. I?ve been killing myself to get my car back in shape. I wouldn?t miss it. I keep checking the weather channel and it?s currently 70% chance of rain Friday and 60% chance Saturday. Rain is supposed to be sporadic for both days.

Yeah I popped into your build thread this am and took a look, car is looking killer, the small stuff is such a time suck dude.

Looking forward to checking your car out after the repaint, I love white so you get my vote already.

There is a good chance I trailer my **** box over if its raining, I know Ill get **** for it but I am just not ready to drive it in the rain quite yet, everything is still new and clean.

Going to do a tapemeasure alignment on it tonight and give it a once over. Really hoping for a nice track night Friday but doubtful at this point.

Sean
 
So after driving the turbo and supercharged set up how do you like the differences and which one do you like now?

:oogle: See Below

There's only one correct answer to that question :-P

Haha.....knowing your background I get your opinion.

However.

They are both awesome platforms. But very, very different animals.

I love the sounds and power of the turbo, it was not such a hit to the tires and made lots of power up top. Its a complicated system with lots of hot underhood plumbing, oil feel and return lines, lots of potential for leaks and failures.

I love the OEM fit and finish of the supercharger on the GenIV ls. I love how simple it is and that its quiet. My biggest benefit is that its simple, there are no oil feed lines, wastegates or giant front mount intercoolers.

I also don't think that the big turbo goes well with a manual and also doesn't make any sense for what I am doing with the car.

Drag racing, or a daily with an auto, hands down Turbo was awesome.

Track days, Auto X and anything with a manual, the supercharger has a leg up.

Power wise, The turbo truck made boost about 2300 and up, the supercharger is from Idle. I have already driven the Volvo harder than the turbo setup and I love the power, wish it had a little more but nothing a pulley and cam wont pickup.

Sean
 
No worries, I'm just razzing. I completely understand the attraction and benefits of a nice OE supercharger system like your LSA setup. No hate!

Cool to hear your compare / contrast however. When you're referring to the "big turbo" comparison, was that on a 5.3 or Redblock? It's certainly possible these days to set up a turbo car to have nearly instantaneous response and lots of midrange.

It's hard to make up for the off-idle torque of a supercharger, but... e-turbos are coming. Insta-spool is in our future.
 
It's certainly possible these days to set up a turbo car to have nearly instantaneous response and lots of midrange.

The new BMW i6's make peak torque at 1600rpm. I haven't driven one, and it's hard for me to imagine how a turbo motor would behave like that!
 
The new BMW i6's make peak torque at 1600rpm. I haven't driven one, and it's hard for me to imagine how a turbo motor would behave like that!

And those are the gasoline turbos -- if you like that, drive one of their turbo-diesels. Helped a buddy do a water pump/t'stat replacement on his 3.0L X5 turbo-diesel. Man, that baby's got bottom....
 
And those are the gasoline turbos -- if you like that, drive one of their turbo-diesels. Helped a buddy do a water pump/t'stat replacement on his 3.0L X5 turbo-diesel. Man, that baby's got bottom....

and depending on M57 or N57 possible the biggest disaster of a compound turbo setup ever.
 
Well, other than the t'stat - falls into the 8 year old/110k trouble-free miles 'so far so good' category. But - here, we're just talking about umph on the bottom, not reliability....
 
Weather held out on Friday so I snuck out of work a little early headed home, grabbed the trailer and the old **** box and headed to PIR for Track Night in America.

Great group of cars, interesting group of drivers.

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I didnt take too many pics was busy driving and doing some tuning on suspension bits.

First session out, much much better turn in with the delrin bushings, front control arms still have a little wiggle in them, assuming its the bubble gum rear bushings still in there. Does it on hard braking entering a corner, probably need to do more braking before the corner :roll:

Had a little shimmy on the rear of the car on corner exits in the first session but the car was doing well, full 20 minute session, no steering issues, got to 217 (Still on the stock 190 degree stat).

Pitted the car, adjusted the rears 4 clicks softer, adjusted the fronts 4 clicks stiffer. checked tire press, 30 front 27 rear. Good notes.

Rear diff needs a hose on the vent tube, losing a little oil out of that but not enough to stop from running again.

Session 2, much better, less rear wheel hop on corner exits, able to drive the car much harder, notice a little understeer mid corner, car rotates really welll, turn in is excellent.

Had a hell of a time, passed everything in our session except an RS3 that I had an awesome time running with, he was a better driver than I was so once he got around me I hung with him and followed his lead.

There was a guy out there in a McLaren that was a horrible driver, didnt watch his mirrors, wouldnt let anyone around him and though because he had the fastest car out there that he was the fastest driver....he was not, by a long stretch. Passing only on a point by and I wasnt going to break the rules but we both had him covered by a long shot. I was starting to get a little angry, realized it was just for fun and tuning and pull off track a few minutes before the end of the session, a solid 18 minutes out.

Car is getting better, getting used to it. Power and grip in corner exits is awesome, its much faster than I am used to in the F100.

Needs a little softer rear springs, I have 450's in now, ordered some 400's and 350's to try out next week.

I still believe it needs more front bar, I have a 25 on it now, going to go up to a 28mm and see how it does, could make the understeer worse.

I need more front camber.....more on that later.

Rear Diff Breather needs addressed as well as a 160 degree thermostat.

Was stoked to have Robert drop by with his father in law, we had a great evening, car drove into the trailer. Good Day!!!

Saturday was IPD's big annual car show and garage sale, car was pretty well received there and I took home a best of show trophy. Thanks to IPD for putting on this event, its a great time for all of us Volvo Folks was good to see some old friends and make some new ones as well.

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I took half the day off today and cleaned up the shop, ordered a bunch of parts and then got too it.

Havent been looking forward to this but its got to be done.

These are Kaplhenke adjustable caster/camber plates with his strut bar as well. There are no instructions included with the kit so for anyone that needs to do this in the future here is what I did to get the camber gains but still keep the structure in the tops.

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I then traced out the inner shape of the strut tower opening on the top of the strut tower so I had an exact location of where I needed to cut.

Taped up and protected.

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You can see the pencil line

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Drilled the corners so I had a nice radius and gave myself a big hole to start with the airsaw.

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Rough cut.

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I cleaned up the hole with a 1.5" round sanding disc on a die grinder and several different files. I then touched up all of the bare surfaces with color matched paint. Its not perfect but 90% of it is hidden away,

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I think it actually looks better now than before so I call that success!!

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I am not quite sure how much camber I gained, but I gained a bunch of tire clearance, and the strut top moved in a good .75" I still have a little more to gain.

Will get it all buttoned up tomorrow before the rest of the parts show up, hope to have it all together before next Fridays TNIA in Seattle.

This write up came out today, pretty stoked to see this posted up from our shoot a few weeks ago.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/perfect-v8-swapped-volvo/

All in all pretty awesome weekend and last few weeks, fun to see people dig the car.

Thanks for all the help and support over the past year, its been fun as hell!!!

Sean
 
Nice work Sean -- and the article/shoot really seals the deal!

I'd think with a bigger front bar AND softer rear springs, you're gonna see a good bit more push in the front. But more negative camber should help with that -- so you'll see where that all ends up. BTW, in addition to cutting the top of the strut tower for clearance, I opened up the strut tower brace a bit as well to make access to the 4 bolts on top much easier. Makes changing settings a good bit easier.

Edit - oh, if you're seeing 217F on a 190F t'stat, how is a 160F t'stat gonna help? If the system won't reject enough heat keep it closer to the 190F t'stat temp, how is it going to reject the additional heat needed to get it down closer to 160F? It'll buy you a bit of time when you first start lapping, but shortly after either t'stat is gonna be wide open. I'd say you need more airflow across the rad or more rad if you want running temps closer to the t'stat temp. Fatter tune may help a bit too...

 
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Nice work Sean -- and the article/shoot really seals the deal!

I'd think with a bigger front bar AND softer rear springs, you're gonna see a good bit more push in the front. But more negative camber should help with that -- so you'll see where that all ends up. BTW, in addition to cutting the top of the strut tower for clearance, I opened up the strut tower brace a bit as well to make access to the 4 bolts on top much easier. Makes changing settings a good bit easier.

Edit - oh, if you're seeing 217F on a 190F t'stat, how is a 160F t'stat gonna help? If the system won't reject enough heat keep it closer to the 190F t'stat temp, how is it going to reject the additional heat needed to get it down closer to 160F? It'll buy you a bit of time when you first start lapping, but shortly after either t'stat is gonna be wide open. I'd say you need more airflow across the rad or more rad if you want running temps closer to the t'stat temp. Fatter tune may help a bit too...

I think I am going to try the softer rear springs first, then the front bar, but have them all with me at the next track day in case I want to make more changes. I also needed a little more tire pressure up front as I could feel the tires rolling over more than they should be. The extra camber should be a huge help though.

I hear ya on opening up the strut tower bar, like I have said before sometimes its a balance of aesthetics and performance for me. I still cannot believe that there are no instructions provided with any of Kaplhenke's parts as well as not a single one linked off of his website, Moreover, why doesn't the strut tower bar opening match the pattern on the top of the adjustable upper strut mount. I understand that not everyone will run them, but maybe have it as an option? I cut enough, not to mention I don't really want to send it off to have it re powdercoated.

On the engine temps, I understand thermal dynamics pretty well but this one has me a little bit confused. Its not load or speed related.

If I sit in stop and go traffic it will get up to about 211, this is in super mild temperatures like 50 degrees here in Portland as well as 95 degree weather in Vegas.

It will come down to 200 ish when I get moving. When I am on the freeway cruising at say 70 or so, with very little load on the engine 1700 rpm virtually no throttle it will run about 210 or so More accelerator or shift gears and it will drop.

Makes me think that the stat is more likely an issue than airflow. I do wonder if I am going to have to do some hood louvers to get some airflow through the engine bay. When I pop the hood though, its not really hot in there like I would think it would be.

Either way, its a next step, it either helps or it doesnt, but its the best path forward that I can think of.

Sean
 
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