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Old 09-04-2012, 10:05 PM   #51
MikeSr.
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I'm so jealous. Can't wait to see how you guys shoehorn that in there... there may be a v8 in my future.
Yeah, it's on my engine stand, come on down and get it.
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:14 PM   #52
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So the DOD is being removed and replaced with a big cam then? Looking good!
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:14 PM   #53
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They are big trannies. Mine had to move back to get the 2j in, it got pushed back farther than the redblock had it, so I need to relieve the passengers floor area kind up high, and am going to do some creative hammering to get the reverse lock solenoid to workout.


Project is looking great!
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:41 PM   #54
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From Hackster's thread....

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Old 09-05-2012, 04:54 AM   #55
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Yeah , that side is a problem. I thought about attacking the hump with a sawzall and welding in a Firebird hump.
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Old 09-05-2012, 06:22 AM   #56
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Anytime you get to use the words welding, sawzall, attacking and hump (twice) in the same sentence - it's a good project.
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Old 09-05-2012, 03:07 PM   #57
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From Hackster's thread....

If this is all he did to the tunnel to make it work then it should be somewhat easy.
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Old 09-05-2012, 04:00 PM   #58
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Also a function of WHERE you place the engine.....
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Old 09-05-2012, 06:55 PM   #59
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Quote:
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Anytime you get to use the words welding, sawzall, attacking and hump (twice) in the same sentence - it's a good project.
I wish my sig wasn't already so full. Had me in stitches.
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Old 09-06-2012, 05:30 PM   #60
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HaHa!!

I wish I had taken some photos of that patch panel after I finished it, that one really looks like sh#t.

If you were to stand in front of the car with the engine out and look at the tunnel it would look something like this....



After many many hours of beating on the tunnel with 5 and 10lb single jacks, using a porta power to push apart, some cutting grinding relief cutting welding and one hole saw it should look something like this.



placing the engine in the bay was a cake walk, maybe a two hour job. Clearancing the tunnel, building the patch panel rebuilding the shifter to fit up through the stock shifter opening and getting the tranny to fit took me a number of days to make it all work.

Its a big unit when its all together so its slide it all in, mark the spot, move it all back out, make an adjustment slide it in over and over again. All in all, I believe I had the engine and transmission in and out of the car 15 times between the crossmember clearancing and the tunnel.

Its not horrible work, just work.

Have fun and Ill check back on it soon.

I believe that I have the templates for the cutout on the crossmember, is that something that you are intersted in? I could scan them and email them over to you if you are.

Sean
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:36 PM   #61
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i think i got my motor in now with no mods to the x member with he mast pan! ill post pics soon for those who would like to see.
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:38 PM   #62
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HaHa!!

I believe that I have the templates for the cutout on the crossmember, is that something that you are intersted in? I could scan them and email them over to you if you are.

Sean
Yes-that would help a lot. Jr. got a good look at it and I think he has a good idea where the cuts should be. Did you reroute the brake lines? We took them off to fit the motor- they are right in the way.
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:42 PM   #63
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"Its a big unit when its all together so its slide it all in, mark the spot, move it all back out, make an adjustment slide it in over and over again."

Sean - I think you might have posted this in the wrong forum....
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Old 09-06-2012, 09:01 PM   #64
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Yes-that would help a lot. Jr. got a good look at it and I think he has a good idea where the cuts should be. Did you reroute the brake lines? We took them off to fit the motor- they are right in the way.
mine clear with a half inch clearance. i knotched my crossmember assuming i would need to... now i see otherwise!
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Old 09-06-2012, 10:07 PM   #65
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if only i didnt assume it wouldnt fit! damnit! cut it for no reason..
Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App
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also only one mount is on for the pictured... waiting on ploy in the mail for the drivers side
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Old 09-06-2012, 10:41 PM   #66
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Nice mount. That would be higher than we had planned, but looks good.
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Old 09-07-2012, 06:20 AM   #67
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Higher? My engines half inch off the crossmember. You physically cant go lower unless you lower the rack?
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Old 09-07-2012, 08:15 AM   #68
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Sorry, I meant the mount position on the frame rail. We were going lower to the crossmember. I like your idea for placement. Did you use longer bolts?
What tranny are you using? The T56 with the shifter in a usable spot in the Volvo shifter hole won't allow any further rearward positioning. Our Hummer pan clears vertically, but the lowest part of the pan is gonna be an inch or two into the crossmember.
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Old 09-07-2012, 08:33 AM   #69
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Hmm...Interesting
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Old 09-07-2012, 08:48 AM   #70
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When I put the LS3 in mine, I'm pretty sure I'm going with mounts that drop straight down to the cross member. I want to preserve as much space over to the frame rail as possible for more flexibility with exhaust manifolds and the steering shaft.
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Old 09-07-2012, 10:07 AM   #71
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I Have hooker headers they clear with tuns of space. Tranny is still my built up ford t5 so I can keep my drivshaft crossmember etc. If that blows I'll get a tko box. Bolts are super long factory with this 1/4 plate under them the bolt still sticks out 1/8 past the nut!
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Old 09-07-2012, 11:44 AM   #72
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T5-I guess that give you some more rearward movement enough to clear.
Great ideas guys!
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Old 09-07-2012, 12:23 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2fast242gt View Post
I Have hooker headers they clear with tuns of space. Tranny is still my built up ford t5 so I can keep my drivshaft crossmember etc. If that blows I'll get a tko box. Bolts are super long factory with this 1/4 plate under them the bolt still sticks out 1/8 past the nut!
First off, I like your design, but I do have some questions. What about steering column clearance using that design? Are there any issues? I also wonder about not having any bolts holding the vertical part of the plate to the verticle part of the rail. It seems that by only using two top bolts there would be some upward movement from torque at least on one side, which would put stress on those bolts, and allow the mount brackets to move. I wonder if it would be better to just weld the plates to the rails and still have the two bolt holes for the crossmember bolts.

As long as there is no issues on the driverside with the steering column, exhaust, and headers than I think this is the design we'll use.
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Old 09-07-2012, 01:13 PM   #74
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If I sold it as a kit I was going to have a hole in the vertical part if the frame rail plate where the customers could run a half inch bolt threw. Otherwise a simple one inch stitch weld would suffice at the corner of the vertical plate. Honestly I intend to run it with the two bolts I did it with the 16v for two years.
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Old 09-07-2012, 01:16 PM   #75
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Its interesting that you have tons of clearance with your setup 242gt. I am guessing it is because of the use of the t5 tranny. WIth the t56, the transmission really dictates the location of the engine in these cars withoug building an entire new tunnell. If you did not notch the crossmember for clearance, I bet that you would not have been able to physically get the motor in the car with the oil pan on it. I thought the same thing.

Like I said before, if I had it to do over again, I would just put a t-5 behind the ls powerplant, although you have to buy a bellhousing and figure out input shaft, pressure plate and flywheel I think it is a better all around setup.

Have I mentioned how big a t56 is compared to a tiny little t-5?

Mike, I will try and get those scanned and emailed over to you in the next couple days.

Keep going.

Sean
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