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Old 08-02-2016, 05:15 PM   #1
MikeJr.
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Default MikeJr. 65 122s project

For the longest time I've wanted to own and drive a 122. It has been my dream car since before I could even drive. I did have one once http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=92573 but it ended up being a huge project, and my time, interest, and money fizzled out, so after 10+ years of owning I gave up on the project, and sold everything.

I never did stop wanting a 122 though. I tried to fill the void with a few 240 projects, but I was never satisfied... until now.

Early last month I was farting around on ebay when I came across a 1966 Volvo 122 for sale in Tennessee. It's was very close to me and the car sounded so good that I decided to pull the trigger.

Current shot



These are shots from the day I bought it









The car is in amazing original condition, except for a few bolt on mods. It has full ipd suspension with bilsteins. It also has the ipd header and valve cover.

The car only has a documented 55k miles, and it shows. I have all the records dating back to the original owner that bought the car in Atlanta in 1966. The lady that bought was born in 1900 and was 66 at the time. I've been doing some research online and I actually think it's a 1965, because of the chassis number and the paint color. This color (84 Golden Yellow) wasn't available in 1966. I emailed a guy at the 122 registry website with the chassis number and he said it is a 65. I'm still trying to figure that out.

My plan for now is to do only due bolt on mods and keep those to a minimum. It's in such good original condition that I'd be hard to tamper with it to much.

Paint and body will come in the next year or so. I want to drive it for a little while first. The paint does have a nice patina, but the drivers door has been resprayed, and it shows a little. I love the color it's kind of a creamy white rather than yellow, so it will go back the same color.
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Old 08-02-2016, 05:43 PM   #2
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I have already started to do a few things to the car. First being the brakes. When I stepped on the brake pedal it would go in half way, and I'd have to pump it up in order to get good pedal.

I attempted to bleed the brakes first to see if that's all that it needed. I made a power bleeding adapter for the stock master cylinder.


It worked great, but there was no change in the pedal feel. I ordered a new master cylinder from FCP and put it on. I bench bled it and re-bled the brakes and still no change. I did a little research and decided to just go ahead and replace the front calipers too. I found some new ones at VP-Autoparts in SC. I'll give them a try and see what happens.

I also decided to change the automatic transmission to a manual M41 OD transmission. I found a D type locally for cheap. I wanted the stronger J type , but I think this will work just fine for now. I plan on running the long shifter so I don't have to mod the tunnel.

It's ugly on the outside, but looks very clean on the inside, and when I powered up the OD solenoid it clicks so that's good.
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Old 08-02-2016, 05:56 PM   #3
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I had a guy contact me wanting me to do some work on his 67 123gt. I took him up on his offer, because I wanted to see how the M41 is installed. So now I have 2 Amazons at my house.


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Old 08-02-2016, 06:14 PM   #4
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This car is awesome. Mike is awesome.
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Old 08-02-2016, 06:28 PM   #5
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Wow that's a sharp example. Will be watching for progress.
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Old 08-02-2016, 07:00 PM   #6
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This car is awesome. Mike is awesome.
Oh stop
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Old 08-02-2016, 08:51 PM   #7
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If the pictures are at all representative of how nice the paint is everywhere else but the door you mention, IMHO DO NOT PAINT.
Hundreds of newly repainted Amazons around for every survivor worth preserving.
This looks like one...
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Old 08-03-2016, 03:05 PM   #8
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That thing looks awesome
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Old 08-03-2016, 09:08 PM   #9
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I got my new calipers today form VP-Autoparts. They look pretty good.

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Old 08-03-2016, 09:46 PM   #10
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My 122 is titled a 67 but it's a 66. Seems to be pretty common. Maybe back then the year the car was sold was what it got titled?
I remember putting some braided lines in place of the old spongy rubber ones on my old mans 544 back in the day to help firm up the pedal.
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Old 08-04-2016, 10:13 AM   #11
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My 122 is titled a 67 but it's a 66. Seems to be pretty common. Maybe back then the year the car was sold was what it got titled?
I remember putting some braided lines in place of the old spongy rubber ones on my old mans 544 back in the day to help firm up the pedal.
Yeah mine was bought in 66, and it was originally titled as a 66, weird. Maybe it was old dealer stock or something.

It already has braided lines. In fact one of the ways you test the calipers is to pinch off one brake line at a time and check the pedal feel. This method will point to a bad caliper. I couldn't perform this test because of the braided lines. I figured it would just be good to go ahead and replace the 50 year old calipers. I'm just hoping it's not anything on the rear drums. I've never messed with drums before.

Last edited by MikeJr.; 08-07-2016 at 06:18 AM..
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Old 08-04-2016, 01:31 PM   #12
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Mike, that is a very nice car and I watched it on Ebay where the photos showed it very well. As a professional restorer for the last 40-years I agree w/ northNH that it should not be painted. Fix what little damage it has on the passenger side and have someone who is good with matching colors paint only those panels. The upside is it will be worth more both now and in the future and you will have an excellent surviver.
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Old 08-04-2016, 02:38 PM   #13
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Measure how much your master cylinder is deflecting when you hit the pedal. It could be in the firewall.
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Old 08-04-2016, 03:10 PM   #14
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The drums aren't anything spectacular. You just need a super beefy puller to get the drum off. It'll make sense when you look in there. Could be a leaky wheel cylinder that no one could ever replace because the drums are a bastard to remove. You'll get it right though. My car always stopped great with stock parts. I should've just left it all alone.

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Measure how much your master cylinder is deflecting when you hit the pedal. It could be in the firewall.
I would be very surprised to find anything like that. Even if it does deflect a bit, and it may, there's no way it's deflecting as much as half the pedal's total travel.
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Old 08-04-2016, 04:10 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by northNH View Post
If the pictures are at all representative of how nice the paint is everywhere else but the door you mention, IMHO DO NOT PAINT.
Hundreds of newly repainted Amazons around for every survivor worth preserving.
This looks like one...

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Originally Posted by vintagewrench View Post
Mike, that is a very nice car and I watched it on Ebay where the photos showed it very well. As a professional restorer for the last 40-years I agree w/ northNH that it should not be painted. Fix what little damage it has on the passenger side and have someone who is good with matching colors paint only those panels. The upside is it will be worth more both now and in the future and you will have an excellent surviver.
I know it's always better to keep the original finish if you can, and it's pretty good for 50+ year old paint, but its not perfect. There is definitely some body work that needs to be done on just about every panel.










I work in the autobody industry, and have for 20+ years, so any painting and bodywork would be top notch, showroom, type finish. Just like i did on my 242 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=278339


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Old 08-04-2016, 04:13 PM   #16
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You just need a super beefy puller to get the drum off.
Yeah I might invest in a drum brake puller. Kind of pricey though.
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Old 08-04-2016, 04:46 PM   #17
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I rented one from hiperfauto and it got the job done.
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Old 08-04-2016, 05:13 PM   #18
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I rented one from hiperfauto and it got the job done.
Hmm... good to know
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Old 08-05-2016, 08:37 AM   #19
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Quote:
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My car always stopped great with stock parts. I should've just left it all alone.
Andrew, you are right about that, correctly rebuilt 120 and 220 brakes work very well with the exception of fading during extreme continued use in mountainous terrain or during racing on a track w/a lot of corners.

EBC "Green Stuff" pads on the front for street use or original equiptment Volvo pads, and new old stock Ferodo linings on the drums work exceedingly well. When installing new brake linings on the rear make sure the primary shoe is on the front as many of them have become mixed up in the past making the rear brakes ineffective.
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Old 08-06-2016, 09:38 PM   #20
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Well I put the new calipers on, and re-bled the system, but it didn't fix the problem.


The front brake pads were original Volvo pads and still in great condition.



I clamped off the rear brake lines and it had great pedal, unclamped nope. So my problem is in the rear. The front calipers did need to be replaced though. The boots were dry rotted and the pistons were rusty.


I rented a front wheel drive hub puller from advanced in order to get the rear drums off


The wheel cylinders look to be original, and don't seem to be articulating properly. They are cheap enough so I'll go ahead and replace them.



I've been soaking the M41 in ATF and acetone for a few weeks letting everything get all loosey goosey. The M41 cleaned up really well and the inside is very clean. It was sitting outside, under an awning for at least 20+ years. Everything seems to be good so far, but I'm going to wait to do a complete service on it, like seals and such. I want to get it in the car and see if it works before I do that. It's not leaking anywhere that I can tell so I think it'll be ok.



I also started accumulating the rest of the parts for the manual swap. VP-Automotive sells a clutch accessory kit. It's a pretty cool kit. I also got a pedal assemble from hiperfauto. Thanks again man!

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Old 08-07-2016, 08:04 PM   #21
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I decided to use a OD switch on the dash rather than putting it on the column. I think this switch is awesome. I'm going to put it where the lighter goes and add an indicator light in the proper spot.


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Old 08-07-2016, 08:09 PM   #22
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Re the wheel cylinders, if you can find a real craftsman in your city/locality, do so, and get them re sleeved and kitted in stainless steel or brass - then they will last forever, or close enough to it. I have this on all of my VW beetle wheel cylinders, but it's a dying art and only one place left in Auckland that does it AFAIK. Way better than brand new steel ones IMO. 2c delivered :-)
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Old 08-07-2016, 09:06 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by FreeEMSFred View Post
Re the wheel cylinders, if you can find a real craftsman in your city/locality, do so, and get them re sleeved and kitted in stainless steel or brass - then they will last forever, or close enough to it. I have this on all of my VW beetle wheel cylinders, but it's a dying art and only one place left in Auckland that does it AFAIK. Way better than brand new steel ones IMO. 2c delivered :-)
Hmm that's good to know. I'll have to do a little research and see if I can find someone local that does it.
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Old 08-08-2016, 09:08 AM   #24
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Looking GOOD!!
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Old 08-08-2016, 09:20 AM   #25
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Nice 122s and Minilites, remembers my first 122s 65'....
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