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Old 09-15-2017, 02:39 PM   #151
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I like where you are going with this project. Good move on the new position of teh fuel pump.

The only slight issue I have is the poly steering coupling. In most cases I'm a fan of poly but it is not a good material for the steering coupling as once it starts to tear it will rip all the way through, its not progressive like rubber in that aspect. The rubber also have fiber to strengthen it.

Out of interest what did you do with the 142?
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Old 09-15-2017, 04:31 PM   #152
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The only slight issue I have is the poly steering coupling. In most cases I'm a fan of poly but it is not a good material for the steering coupling as once it starts to tear it will rip all the way through, its not progressive like rubber in that aspect. The rubber also have fiber to strengthen it.
I'll look into that. It was on it when I bought the car.

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Out of interest what did you do with the 142?
I sold it to someone on the board.
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Old 09-17-2017, 04:14 PM   #153
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So with this new M41 I decided to re-wire the overdrive using a 240 relay and a momentary switch. I used this wiring diagram from the Swedish embassy website http://sw-em.com/OD_Retrofitting.htm#OD_Solenoid_Notes


So now whenever you take it out of 4th in OD, it takes it out of OD without having to press the switch just like a 240. Also I replaced the Lucas on/off switch with a momentary button.




I hid the relay under the dash a re-routed the harness



It all works perfectly

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Old 09-17-2017, 04:25 PM   #154
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I bought some cheap EMPI air filters for now. Later I'd like to built a plenum with a fresh air supply.



Got the idle dialed in and WOT is amazing. Mid throttle is ok, and part throttle starts to sputter.
I'll need to play around with them some more, maybe buy a jet kit. I think the 45s might be to much for the b18. May have to get the b20 in there sooner, rather than later.

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Old 09-17-2017, 06:57 PM   #155
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Hell yeah Mike, this is a nice ass car.
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Old 09-18-2017, 07:35 AM   #156
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Hell yeah Mike, this is a nice ass car.
Thanks man!
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Old 09-18-2017, 07:35 AM   #157
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Old 09-18-2017, 10:44 AM   #158
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Here's a few more shots of the current engine bay.




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Old 09-18-2017, 10:55 AM   #159
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Solid work dude, it looks great. I agree on getting that B20 in there. Will it be stock or will you have any kind of special cam, work, etc... ?

Easiest thing to do would be to jet down for now. It's not hard on these carbs.
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Old 09-18-2017, 11:31 AM   #160
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Will it be stock or will you have any kind of special cam, work, etc... ?
I will cam it, but I haven't decided which one.
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Old 09-18-2017, 11:33 AM   #161
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You can get a bit more aggressive with the DCOE's. SU's get more confused about cams with more reversion, the DCOE's just don't care (as much).

I got an Isky VV81 last time, but I think there are more modern cams out there. The Isky was just cheap and readily available on short notice las time I needed one.
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Old 09-18-2017, 01:57 PM   #162
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I just ordered some F8 65 idle jets to replace my 60s. According to the tuning manual if the idle mixture screw is more the 2-1/2 turns off seat than then you need to change to the next largest size which would be the 65s. I am currently 5-1/4 turns out.

I read on another forum were a guy was having the same hesitation off idle. He found that changing the idle jets to a larger size corrected the problem, even though he was told idle jets only effect idle.

Here is his post:
DCOE Weber "hesitation" tip!
After having the 40DCOEs for about a year - and always accepting a slight hesitation off idle
constantly told: "they're racing carbs kid - what do you expect"
.... I have finally C U R E D the lean spot / stumbling problems. No more slipping the clutch and blipping the throttle to keep the engine happy (although I'll miss the well timed "blipping" at traffic lights :-) !

I felt the motor was hitting a "lean" spot in the fuel delivery / rpm curve - and after being told by many that idle jets DON't affect anything but idle, resigned myself to chasing timing, float level,etc...and just living with it -
Decided yesterday that I'd try fat idle jets anyway.

Here's what I did:
removed 50F8 idle jets - installed what are probably "overkill" 65F8 jets just for kicks. I readjusted idle mix a bit - and the car is as smooth as Motronics!!!! As smooth as a tii? YESSSSS!
So there you have it - Idle jets Can and DO affect progression circuitry in the DCOEs!!! I'll probably go back to a leaner 60F8 or somesuch - but that's where my problem lied the whole time!
Now I can drive "eggshell" if I want to, without motor bucking or complaining. Paul


I'm hoping this is the case, but even if it doesn't effect the hesitation the current ones are still to lean according to the tuning manual.



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Old 09-18-2017, 02:02 PM   #163
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Yeah, there are only two sets of jets. The idle mixture itself is adjusted by those little needle valves, but once you crack the throttle open the 'idle' jets are feeding fuel in via those progression holes. That's not adjustable, that takes jet swaps.

It's only when the throttle is opened up further that the main jet starts feeding fuel in. With the throttle mostly closed, it's the partial vacuum pulling the fuel in via the progression holes (and that's why they are spread out along the roof of the carb throat - as the throttle opens up it exposes more of the holes to the vacuum).

At some point the vacuum created by a partly closed throttle fades, and the carb choke starts moving enough air to create a vacuum, and that's where the main jets put fuel in - this is based on the volume of air going in (and the size of the venturi/choke).

Obviously, there's plenty of overlap in all three circuits - the idle-actual idle, the idle-part throttle, and the main-open throttle.
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Old 09-18-2017, 02:08 PM   #164
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How many turns past contact are the idle screws? Any more than 1/8 turn and you're off the idle circuit and into progression. If it won't idle there, adjust the bypass screws.
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Old 09-18-2017, 02:47 PM   #165
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How many turns past contact are the idle screws? Any more than 1/8 turn and you're off the idle circuit and into progression. If it won't idle there, adjust the bypass screws.
The idle speed screw is only about 1/8, but I'm out 5 1/4 turns past contact on the idle mixture screw. That's where it would finally run and idle. The Redline instructions that came with the carbs say to keep the air bypass screws closed while setting the idle, and I've just left them closed.

Remember I'm still in DCOE Pre-k. The redline instructions seem vague. I downloaded the big weber manual, but it's like reading a Chinese phone book.
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Old 09-20-2017, 08:09 AM   #166
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So I sold my wheels to stick70 aka Kyle, and bought some factory widened steelies with dog dish hub caps. I've always loved the way these wheels and hubcaps look on 122s.

I ordered them from VP Autoparts in SC. They are a great company by the way. Most of the stuff I buy for my car comes from them. They have everything





I also order some new Goodyear RS-A 195/60R15 tires for them.
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Old 09-20-2017, 03:19 PM   #167
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Nice choice of wheels, I forget that Mattias carries those.

Did you get your carbs dialed in ? What are you running for a distributor ?
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Old 09-20-2017, 07:38 PM   #168
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Nice choice of wheels, I forget that Mattias carries those.

Did you get your carbs dialed in ? What are you running for a distributor ?
I got the idle jets today and threw them in when I got home from work. I went for a quick drive and tip in has gotten about 90% better. There is a very slight stumble now so I'm on the right track. I may return these and go with a f9 50s, but I want to see what size the Venturi and main jet are so I can do some calculating. Need to retune idle now though and see where I'm at.

It has a stock distributor and pertronix breakerless ignition

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Old 09-20-2017, 11:11 PM   #169
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Nice choice of wheels...
I agree. The fat steelies will suit the car well
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Old 09-25-2017, 08:17 AM   #170
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I got the wheels installed







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Old 09-25-2017, 08:25 AM   #171
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I got the F9 50 idle jets and installed them. It improved the tip in even more. I'd say its about 99% better over the original set up. The idle mixture screws are at their max recommended 2 1/2 turns out from full seat which make me think I could go even bigger on the F9s. Maybe 55s or 60s. There is still a very slight stutter under very light throttle, but I would never drive it like this. During my normal driving there is no stutter at all. I'm going to leave the jets where they are for now until I get the B20 in.

I have to say that for me anyway the DCOE are much easier to tune, than the SUs. Now I know that the SUs were 50+ years old, and they surely needed a rebuild, but I could never get them dialed in. The SUs at WOT would spit and sputter, and they never idled very good. The DCOEs are far easier to tune, and the car drives great with them.

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Old 09-25-2017, 09:25 AM   #172
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Car looks great on those wheels. I have the same ones from VP sitting in my backyard, and seeing your car makes me want to put them back on my 140.
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Old 09-25-2017, 09:43 AM   #173
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SU tuning was also not very static. You'd get them tuned up just right, and 6 month later you'd need to do it again. Just a fairly constant ongoing task. Sort of seasonal in nature?

The DCOE's, however, are almost completely set it and forget it. Side benefit of having most of the tuning comprised of non-adjustable parts. They can't drift out of adjustment.
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Old 09-25-2017, 11:31 AM   #174
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SU tuning was also not very static. You'd get them tuned up just right, and 6 month later you'd need to do it again. Just a fairly constant ongoing task. Sort of seasonal in nature?

The DCOE's, however, are almost completely set it and forget it. Side benefit of having most of the tuning comprised of non-adjustable parts. They can't drift out of adjustment.
Yeah I like the Webers a lot better.
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Old 09-27-2017, 05:59 AM   #175
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Car looks great on those wheels. I have the same ones from VP sitting in my backyard, and seeing your car makes me want to put them back on my 140.
Yeah, They look good on 140s too. They look so much wider than they actually are.
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