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Old 08-20-2018, 09:26 PM   #51
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oh no...I'm only hitting ~14 psi as of right now, but I've read it is a good idea to bump up the pressure while testing just to ensure no leaks. I understand the turbo inlet is vacuum only and doesnt generate any positive pressure, BUT I'm still kind of lost when it comes to pressurizing the intake manifold. Open throttle?

My thoughts are, you put air thru the inlet, comes out turbo, thru intercooler, but wont pass thru throttle body unless opened? am I correct or should I pressurize from a different point?
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Old 08-21-2018, 06:56 AM   #52
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If you still have the factory IAC installed, when you key up ignition to IAC should be open. You'll pressurize that intake..... worst case hold the throttle body plate open with a zip tie.
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Old 08-21-2018, 10:03 AM   #53
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awesome, gonna try testing manifold and hopefully engine soon. thanks for the step by step!
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Old 09-12-2018, 07:28 PM   #54
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Not much has happened since the last update. I did pressure test the whole system, found a couple leaks from various places, including the cbv still. But other than that, it seems to be pretty tight up to ~28ish psi.

I've most recently hit the 20k miles mark on the new engine, thats pretty exciting. What's not exciting is to see drips of oil under the car...we went to myrtle beach to visit my grandparents that came down from Tennessee, happened to see a couple drops fell off one of the suspension bars. My first thought...RMS. But after cleaning the area and watching constantly, it doesn't seem to be the rms, so maybe the cam plug at the back of the head or the valve cover. THANK GOD.

The hurricane has pushed us and my grandparents back from myrtle, to Kingsport, Tennessee for the week. Car drove like a dream, conquered to mountains with no issues. Lost no noticeable amouny of oil on the dipstick. Suprisingly enough I averaged 25mpg! Its good practice for the Mountain meet coming up in the next few weeks. Ill definitely get some pics on the scenic overlooks, will also get to check out Dollywood!

On another note, the parts cannon is almost done being fired...rubber couplings for the 940 mid mount IC from rock auto ordered, 940 rad hoses, 940 mid mount hard pipes from a member on here, a 954 turbo ecu to replace my 563 (I'm hoping this will fix my fueling issues), ill have to check out some fuel chips for the new ecu, I'm on the verge of buying a saab t for the efan that I have, just awaiting shipping costs. Oh and some new brake hardware to stop the obnoxious brake squeal I have.

Psh , I forgot...as soon as the klracing 940 mid mount IC is back in stock it will be on its way to my door. I'm hoping all this will happen before MountainMeet2k18 , but we will see...
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Old 09-20-2018, 08:09 PM   #55
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Got some things in the mail over the last week. Still waiting on more, but really cant do anything until I decide either to go universal IC or wait on the Klracing to be back in stock...decisions decisions..





Figured I didnt post a pic on my new RSR, but honestly it'll probably revert back to the original OEM relay and connector from Dave Bartons site.



Went to myrtle beach to visit my family that was vacationing in Myrtle beach, but after a couple days they evacuated the coast, so we took the chance to go back home with them. To Kingsport, Tennesse, went to Dollywood among other places and saw some cool old cars too.











A lot of rain otw home, but saw some cool hilly things I dont see everyday



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Old 09-24-2018, 12:18 PM   #56
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The tine for the MountainMeet2k18 is coming fast. I have made a list of things to be done before the second ~5.5 hour trip for the wagon in the last 3 weeks, plus this time I have people to impress...

Oil change -done
Trans pan fluid change
Coolant flush
Pressure wash engine bay -done
Pressure wash under body -done
Replace a couple small vacuum lines -done
Wash and wax- washed...not waxed yet
Detail interior- done
Brakes, front and rear, new rear hardware -done
Clean and oil cone filter- done
Lets see if I will chop half a coil off the front.. - not doing that
And finally, up the boost from 12 to 15 - yet to do this, but will.

Shouldn't be to bad to do in a 3 day span, and I have 1 of those days off. Gotta start rummaging thru my crap and find spare relays,fuses, exterior bulbs etc..

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Old 09-24-2018, 03:33 PM   #57
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Replace your rear shocks while you're at it. It's only two bolts and since you'll already be back there... It might also helplevel out the front to back with some fresh shocks.
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Old 09-24-2018, 05:43 PM   #58
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Quote:
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Replace your rear shocks while you're at it. It's only two bolts and since you'll already be back there... It might also helplevel out the front to back with some fresh shocks.
Oh man...I totally forgot that you gave me those. Ill definitely do that. Now, do you lift the body to extend shock to the max and then remove? That sounds right, right?
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Old 09-25-2018, 06:59 AM   #59
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Oh man...I totally forgot that you gave me those. Ill definitely do that. Now, do you lift the body to extend shock to the max and then remove? That sounds right, right?
The rear suspension will articulate further than the shocks allow..... take care when you go back in with new shocks and lift slightly to enable installation of bolts.
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Old 09-30-2018, 03:19 PM   #60
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Got back from MountainMeet2k18 and had a blast. Met some cool volvo people, saw some bad ass volvos and definitely drove the car the hardest I have ever before. You can definitely feel the body roll and lacking suspension when trying to maneuver the hairpin turns at 40mph.. It was awesome, an adrenaline rush from the get go. The power was there, the one tire fire going up hard inclines and sliding around the non terrifying corners. Very pleased that the car didn't explode during the ride.

Finally got a new camera for the trip, now 16 megapixels will show all...









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Old 12-08-2018, 02:49 PM   #61
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Bump for some motivation. Change your water pump!
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Old 12-08-2018, 04:01 PM   #62
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haha okay. So, since trying to track down this dumb fuel issue that I've been having forever, my water pump starting leaking pretty severely. Ordered a new pump and gasket set from IPD, that was before Thanksgiving...Since it was leaking so bad, it lost its DD status and i switched to driving the Jeep everyday. The jeep had a bad wheel bearing, so i got that, then out of nowhere my year and a half old starter decided to fail. leaving me stranded in the middle of nowhere at a gas station.

On top of everything with the vehicles, it is the holiday season, which means alot of money spent on not things car. Along with that, we are moving. Eventually. We are buying a place closer towards Charleston, but it needs to some work. SO, that just means more less things car, unfortunately.

Now, after fixing the things that go wrong on the jeep i finally have time to change the water pump.











I am now waiting for the gasket material stuff to dry, then i have to fill with coolant, but hopefully it will not leak.
After i confirm it is not leaking, i will lower the boost, swap the fuel ecu with a 9xx one and hopefully drive away with no rich misfires!
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Old 12-09-2018, 09:12 PM   #63
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And it leaks. alot. like way more than it did previously. I'm almost positive the oring when the tube goes into pinched or something. So had to do it again today, finished in about an hour , apposed to the 2 that it took yesterday...Filled her up and no apparent leaks, sweet. Started it up and there is a weird metallic banging noise...like a bolt or nut is banging around somewhere in the front of the engine. I can't pin point exactly, but i would assume wp since thats what i was messing with. It also hasn't many miles lately, maybe the alternator is started to make some noise?

I let it run and the noise didn't go away, it warmed up and didn't overheat in the time it was idling. I also didn't see any leaks when i shut it down. I am going to drive it to work tomorrow, so that will be the real test to see wtf is going on...before i leave tomorrow morning, i will check once over everything again to make sure i didn't miss anything stupid. sigh.

My water pump/power steering belt is rather loose, even at the max tightness on the tensioner. Ill be looking into a new belt here soon.
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Old 02-06-2019, 09:53 PM   #64
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Alot has been going on lately, mostly with moving and renovating, but i have been getting in some Volvo time lately.

Really, it's because things have been going wrong since i have been so busy....

First off, my driver side front brake pads wore down substantially quicker than the other wheels. So some new pads now, and rotors soon...it chewed it up pretty good.



here is the pad...well, the outer metal plate of the pad...



I've been thinking the caliper is probably to blame for that one wearing faster, when i get the rotors ill grab some new calipers for the front, and possibly buy some rebuild kits for the old ones.

Also that same tire wore the outer edge of the tire down to the wires. so two new tires and an alignment happened a couple days ago.





Now last but not least, i ordered a NPR intercooler from fleabay...i know i have been talking about switching to efan, going for the 940 intercooler setup, but i finally decided i did not want to do all that, for what? a little cleaner engine bay and maybe a few more horsies from not having the mechanical one.





Well, it's been annoying. It just so happened to not fit like i thought it was going to. I know it's not a direct fit, but only small modifications for a good fit.
I will definitely be changing some things, but will need to think about it and look at pipes/couplings to figure out what i need. For now, it's in, but not well.







It's crooked as of now because the cold side pipe is too long, the oil cooler is not going to fit in the stock location. Plus i bent the charcoal canister frame back and it'll clear like that. Also, i'm not sure if because i bought the chinabay "direct replacement NPR intercooler", but the in/outlets are smaller than the stock Volvo intercooler. Maybe 2 compared to 2.25? I'm not sure, but the cold side, i had to ghetto rig for now, a quick run to advanced and that side works. The hot side felt tight honestly. But i was wrong.

After everything was ready for the test drive i did a pull at 40 till about 60 and all was good. I turned around, kinda excited, stomped it from a stop and supringly the hot side hose popped off the turbo...and it started backing off the intercooler. So while on the side of the road shoving this hose back onto the turbo, i can move the turbo...the compressor housing is loose to the point i could rock it left and right.

I'll wait for it to cool and tighten the clamp between the two halves. I'll also shove a silicone ring around the intercooler inlet to try and fatten it up...sigh...I should've spent the extra 100 bucks and went with the klracing 740 direct replacement...i guess lesson learned?
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Old 02-11-2019, 11:05 AM   #65
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Today, I've taken a sick day, unfortunately it is raining...So i'm not able to mess with the placement of the npr right now.

But i'm excited to say, it's amazing! I love it. You can definitely feel the difference immediately. The boost comes on so much stronger, downshifting from around 30 mph and i can spin the tires if it hits just right. At a roll, the power comes in smoother and sooner. AFR's are still solid at around 11.0 at 15psi, I'm very tempted to push it up a hair, but i think i'll wait till i get the 3 inch exhaust in.

Another thing i noticed is how much louder the turbo is now. You can hear the hiss of the spool around 5 vacuum and it gets louder and louder as it makes its way up to 15psi. I don't think it's a problem? just less restrictive air, so it's easier for the turbo to do it's thing?

So overall, as of right now, the NPR is an eyesore...BUT i love it. totally worth it soley for the performance benefits. Maybe after i have time and energy to make it fit better, it will be everything i expected
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Old 03-01-2019, 09:50 PM   #66
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So, I got time to mess with the intercooler placement...only because some bad things happened. I can't believe I didn't realize how close the charcoal canister bracket was to the positive battery terminal. When i bent the canister back to make room for the oil cooler to fit, it left maybe a quarter inch between that and the battery. As expected, if i would of looked beforehand, on a hard turn pedal to the floor the car shut off. Thinking i blew off a charge hose, i put it in neutral while rolling and tried to crank the car. No power, confused and coming to a stop, I see smoke coming from under the hood. Run out and pop the hood and the charcoal canister is on fire. Thankfully i was able to blow it out, bend the bracket away just enough to not ground the battery, stuck a piece of cardboard inbetween the two and miraculously made it home, 30 miles away. With some burnt up wires and a huge vacuum leak...

Here is some of the carnage...









It melted the insulation on the negative terminal all the way to the body. I thought that was pretty crazy, also that nothing else in the system shorted out, no computer issues or anything like that.



Now, obviously i can't drive it till it gets fixed, so off to the junkyard the next morning and grabbed a factory ground wire and another charcoal canister without a huge hole in it. Then found an old positive terminal clamp my brother gave me when he moved his battery to the trunk. This also gave me the time and energy to try and adjust the intercooler.

everything off.



I was able to push the cold side pipe a little farther into the 90 at the intake and get it to straighten just a tad. I found some old chunks of rubber I epoxied to the bottom to push it a little higher. The radiator clamps now sit in place and hold the rad like they should. The transmission cooler, I had to bend the lines about a half inch so the npr could scoot to the left and give room for my new oil cooler location.



Ha. luckily the fire from earlier burned a hole thru the CC bracket and i was able to bolt the top of the oil cooler to it and zip tie the bottom half to the top of the splash guard.

I turned the CC bracket 90 degrees or so and now it sits about 2 inches away from the battery. A tie down of some sort will happen shortly so this nonsense doesn't happen again.



New battery terminal clamp WITH a plastic cover cap



All buttoned up and no problems in about 500 miles

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