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Old 12-01-2009, 02:26 PM   #76
Mr.Borrie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbosteen View Post
And White Rice is for 10% property of JW, since that's the amount of metal he welded into it j/k
No its true my car is like 30% property of Turbobricks
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Old 12-01-2009, 02:27 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by Mr.Borrie View Post
No its true my car is like 30% property of Turbobricks
And 50% property of me, due to pain and suffering caused by Borrie
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Old 12-01-2009, 02:29 PM   #78
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Quote:
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And 50% property of me, due to pain and suffering caused by Borrie
yah turns out i only own it for 20%
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Old 12-01-2009, 06:08 PM   #79
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HOORAY. Awesome!
Do you still want my old K&N cone?
Next step, install the christmas present im sending you.
Yeah i am glad it finally runs! (well, 3 weeks ago i started it for fun without AMM+oxygen sensor but that doesnt count).
I drove it around the field for a bit, seems to run well. Even without boost it pulls very good, great pickup at low rpm. Didnt even get into boost before i got wheelspin (poor traction). The M90 works great too, clutch too, no ugly surprises there luckily.
The turbo seems to spool nicely, with a bit more throttle you can hear it spooling up and down after releasing throttle.

The K&N filter i have now seems to be fine, but it has some extra connections and stuff i don't need, i'll let you know if i need one of a better size.
This filter i have now uses a PVC plumbing reduction to attach the AMM to the filter, so there is room for improvement

I'm always eager for 240 goodies
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Don't forget about properly seasoning it on HF jackstands for a couple years whilst dreaming about big powah 'goals'.
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Old 12-01-2009, 06:30 PM   #80
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@JW: congratulations!
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Old 12-05-2009, 07:40 AM   #81
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JW you rock ;) finally got the 240 the way you wanted it! Coolstuff!

Lol@Borrie
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Old 01-16-2010, 12:01 PM   #82
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Originally Posted by Janspeed View Post
@JW: congratulations!
Quote:
Originally Posted by J2_ View Post
JW you rock ;) finally got the 240 the way you wanted it! Coolstuff!

Lol@Borrie
Thanks guys!
It has taken a long time before i had gathered all the parts and had the time to start working on the +T and other upgrades but it is finally coming together. The first parts i bought for the 240 +T project have been bought in 2006, almost 4 years ago.

The good news is that i finally have my exhaust back. I bought it in 2007, together with blabla who bought a system for his 940. Left it at the workshop of a guy i know to fit it, we lost contact etc, fast forward 2.5 years, a lot of phone calls and i finally have it back.



It is a JT superflow 3"/76mm system. p/n JT70-K/2. 2 straight through mufflers. The downpipe wont be used.
From the manual: Som ger din bil smått otroliga prestanda och ett skönt "sound of power".



Used some Mexican chrome (alu-spray) to coat the unprotected welds, bit of the inside of the mufflers and where the original alu coating had been damaged etc. Maybe it helps to keep the exhaust together longer. Bling bling!


Intake tube has been worked over a bit too:

Added tubes for the CBV and the crankcase ventilation. I used TIG brazing again, looks horrible in the pics but it is actually pretty smooth. Some practice needed though before my brazing looks better. The tubes are leftovers from a central heating install btw.


The intake has been fitted too:

Used a black silicone bend to mount the CBV. The CBV is an aluminium version of the normal Bosch CBV (XS-parts lol). Ebay, cheap, works good.
The radiator hoses are a bit folded up. Because i will be upgrading to my Iveco IC asap (in the spring?) i wont cut these hoses to size, the Iveco IC will be mounted between the headlights to keep the radiator in the same position as a N/A car. The hoses won't be folded up then.



I modified the original Volvo T3 lines to be used with the M18 banjo bolts the regular T3 turbo's use. Drilled out the tube end part (olive?) from 16 mm to 18 mm with stepped drill and shortened+turned down the M18 banjo to fit it properly and ensure good water flow. Looks like it is original and easy to service.

Turbo water cooling lines fitted:


Forgot to show my 700/900 series drive shaft support in my earlier updates:

Group A style yo!


Also connected/installed the triple gauge cluster (Thanks Gerb), works great (Thanks Homer!). 4 bar cold idle oil pressure. 20" HG vacuum with the V cam at idle.
Drove it around a bit (no tax/checkup yet so only around the house) and it makes a good impression, it really wants to move and boost seems to come on fast (3000 rpm) in 1st gear! I can't wait to install the exhaust in a few weeks when the exams are over and hit the streets.
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Old 01-16-2010, 12:11 PM   #83
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You keep amazing me.. i need to come by soon again so you will have to make this stuff while i'll keep you in my sight of my russian AK47
Haha no i wont do that...

good work! wauw its gonna be beautifull!
Btw my offer still stands if you need help in a weekend i'll come over and work on whatever you need me for like a good old slave

Edit: So wait what did you to to make those lines fit the cossie, i got the OEM waterlines and they wont fit too small. There is no way you can make the bolt bigger so what did you do there ?
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Old 01-16-2010, 01:34 PM   #84
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Nice.
Uh, so I have an idea for exhaust (for me)
Hit me up on MSN
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Old 01-16-2010, 01:47 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JW240 View Post
Forgot to show my 700/900 series drive shaft support in my earlier updates: http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/236/pb223946.jpg
Group A style yo!
Huh?
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Old 01-16-2010, 02:17 PM   #86
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Good to see some progress on it! In 2 weeks I'll be moving to +- 15km from your place, can I come and visit sometime ?

Last edited by Sander; 01-16-2010 at 02:24 PM..
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Old 01-16-2010, 03:21 PM   #87
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Boris, Homer, get on MSN!

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Originally Posted by klr142 View Post
Huh?
What the Group A cars had: http://www.240grupp-a.se/bilder-file...kardanbalk.jpg
I modified the 240 x-member so that the 700/900 rubber support fits. I'll make some better pics, the one i made doesnt show it well.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Sander View Post
Good to see some progress on it! In 2 weeks I'll be moving to +- 15km from your place, can I come and visit sometime ?
Sure! pm/msn etc, all possible. Where are you moving to? I hope you are taking the 745 with you
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Old 01-16-2010, 08:02 PM   #88
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Originally Posted by JW240 View Post
What the Group A cars had: http://www.240grupp-a.se/bilder-file...kardanbalk.jpg
I modified the 240 x-member so that the 700/900 rubber support fits. I'll make some better pics, the one i made doesnt show it well.
Ah, I see I see... Is the point of this to have a more solid driveshaft support? Any why do we want one? Is this something that's commonly done over there?
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Old 01-19-2010, 02:52 PM   #89
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Originally Posted by klr142 View Post
Ah, I see I see... Is the point of this to have a more solid driveshaft support? Any why do we want one? Is this something that's commonly done over there?
This mod is used often in the VOC rallying etc, there where the cars get a real beating. It should reduce the drive line slop a bit too since the center of the drive shaft can't move around as much as before (esp when going from engine braking to accelerating).
In terms of strength, the stock 240 stuff would probably have been fine for me, reducing the slop was the main goal. The modification of the bracket itself was easy, not much more time invested compared to a stock replacement.

I don't have any good pics of how i adapted the bracket, still searching.
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Old 01-20-2010, 12:39 PM   #90
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I'm all for reducing slop in the driveline... If you can find more pictures that'd be awesome. Thanks!
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Old 02-02-2010, 11:56 AM   #91
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I'm all for reducing slop in the driveline... If you can find more pictures that'd be awesome. Thanks!
No pics yet, I seem to have lost the ones i took of the bracket. I'll drop the center support in the coming week(s) to take a good pic.

Here the writeup of my M90 swap, also posted in the M90 FAQ. A copy here to keep all the pictures in one thread.

Clutch: I used the 240's original dog-dish flywheel with a 940 M90 diesel kit, 260 master cylinder+pedal, 940 slave cylinder and the 940 hydraulic line with a few new bends. I might try a small Teflon spacer between the slave cylinder and the clutch fork to see if it behaves any different, but it is already very good. Not much pedal effort needed.
The gearbox I have comes from a crashed 1995 model 940, it is a M90H (slightly longer 1st and 2nd gear compared to the M90L). I replaced all the gaskets and replaced the oil. No 3rd gear synchro welding, I tried to remove the shaft but it was too much work to remove it and I didn't wanted to lose any parts.

No bodywork mods needed (as expected). The gearbox is a bit close to one part of the tunnel but that is just one of the casted tabs to space out the tunnel insulation on the 9xx models that got that stuff. If it gets too close I'll grind it off.

The gearbox cross member required some work. I used the M47 support of my 240 (the style that uses a rectangular gearbox mount). Just position the 240 under the car with a jack, fit gearbox mount and hold the cross member under a set of bolt holes (the bracket is positioned 2 holes further to the front now) and eyeball where the cutout for the mount has to come. Mark it, measure twice, cut square hole. These pics show it better than i can explain.



Here is the cross member with ready for the mount.


With mount. I used inbus/in-hex screws to attach the mount to the x-member.


How it looks, mounted. You can see 2 small holes on the underside of the x-member to access the in-hex screws.


The shift linkage. I shortened the aluminium piece ~100 mm, the steel shift rod 100 mm too.
For the little shifter support on the left I cut up the little bracket and welded it to a plate that was narrow enough to fit over the 2 mounting holes in the tunnel. The 240 has 4 M6 threaded holes around the shifter. The rear 2 are used for this bracket now.
Because the tunnel of the 240 is pretty narrow you need to install the pin on the right before the transmission is in place. With the engine in the mounts, cylinder head resting against firewall, you can barely squeeze the pin in place.


On top of the tunnel, I used the rubber bellows that came with the 940. The upper and lower bellow fit great in the 240 carpet. The steel plate you see is also from the 940. The 2 little studs on the left are the protruding screws to mount the shifter support. 2 holes drilled in the steel frame to hold it in place and a bit of hammering to massage the steel plate over the 240 tunnel. Use some zipties to hold the leather shifter cover down.
Watch out with the hammer so close to the head unit, a hammer is attracted to expensive stuff.
No bodywork mods here, not even an extra hole drilled.


Drive shaft: I used the rear piece of my 240 since that is the nice thick version of the 89?+ 240s. The front piece came from a 700/900 series with M47. I had the front piece shortened 30-35 mm and balanced together with the rear 240 section. A 700/900 series support bearing was used too. I'll double check the length of the drive shaft for people who want to do this swap in the future.

How it looks in the car:

The shifter fits in perfectly.

I only drove the 240 for 4 km since this swap, still have to finish some stuff like the exhaust, some interior stuff etc. The short test drive showed that everything is working great, no noises, no odd vibrations, all gears work. A very nice upgrade.
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Old 02-02-2010, 12:20 PM   #92
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Hmm i still think you should put the cloth interior back.. it looked really special somehow
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Old 03-30-2010, 12:29 PM   #93
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So. Passed MOT/APK checkup last month, no complaints, CO was 0.0% and other emissions were in spec too. They asked: "this turbocharger is bigger than stock, or?" they liked it.

Engine runs good. not sure how the mixture is since my JAW broke (overheated voltage regulator I think, easy fix). When it worked it showed good values for the load/rpm when i could see it. Maybe only at the highest rpm it gets a bit rich. One small issue is that it likes to stall when it has to idle directly after boosting. Need to check for vacuum leaks.
The exhaust is really silent for 3". During normal driving hardly any louder than it was with the stock N/A stuff. The intake is loud though, the CBV and turbo is really noticeable. Fun fun. People hear something and look for the car with the noise, ignoring the 240. lol.
The M90 works good, only it rubs/grinds a bit in the trans tunnel. Nothing serious. A bit annoying though..
The cooling is marginal. Still using my old N/A rad. Spirited driving is OK as long as i keep the speed up.

Here a vid of how it runs at 6-7PSI. Taking it easy on the clutch.

Had it up to ~100 mph on the Autobahn, it gets there quick. no hassle. The +T has transformed the car. Now it accelerates faster from 80-120 km/h in 4th with just a few PSI of boost than it ever did before (not that I tried hard to get N/A performance). No real lag, even though it has a .63 turbine side, just a bit of boost threshold. at 1800-2000 rpm 3 PSI if you wait a split second, over 2200 rpm it is almost instant, over 2500 rpm boost is instant. With normal driving you almost never hear the CBV like you have with a mitsu equipped car, there you hear the cbv after every minute throttle input.

Last edited by JW240; 10-28-2010 at 03:21 AM.. Reason: video link
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Old 03-30-2010, 01:27 PM   #94
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that looks quick , congrats sucks about the jaw, then again you can also look at mine
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Old 03-30-2010, 03:28 PM   #95
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Nice! Do you have an efan on there or the stock clutch setup? You shouldn't be having any cooling system issues...
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Old 03-30-2010, 04:16 PM   #96
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Nice! Do you have an efan on there or the stock clutch setup? You shouldn't be having any cooling system issues...
Thanks. I have a 82C T-stat and Efan. Well, maybe issue is a bit exaggerated, but it does get hot quickly. Some stop-go traffic make the temp gauge read higher, which drops again instantly when the Efan is on or when the car picks up some speed. That was back when it was N/A and when driving 'normal'. But spirited driving (a few minutes with more boost/braking) makes the temp gauge needle move to slightly above the middle. And that with 10 degree C ambient temp, I cant imagine that it will stand up to much abuse when it is 30C in the summer.
The rad that I have in there now is pretty tired, still the original skinny N/A version. I have a used but semi-OK rad in the turbo size I think, that one should be good for what I do.
Later on I wat to buy a KL-racing aluminium wide 940 style rad and cut down the endtanks to suit my Iveco IC. Thats overkill but it is almost the same price as a new stock rad, only slightly more expensive.
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Old 03-30-2010, 04:22 PM   #97
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Hey JW,

That sounds and looks great, but it needs to be tested thorougly on the Ring
Let me know if and when.

Greetz
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Old 03-30-2010, 05:28 PM   #98
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Originally Posted by JW240 View Post
The M90 works good, only it rubs/grinds a bit in the trans tunnel. Nothing serious. A bit annoying though...
Did you fix the problem with the gearbox mount?
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Old 03-31-2010, 05:19 PM   #99
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Hey JW,

That sounds and looks great, but it needs to be tested thorougly on the Ring
Let me know if and when.

Greetz
Thanks! Yeah, it will need some testing on a proper track. It would be nice if i could find some decent wheels for the summer though
(decent = more than 15" like I have now, with tread left)

Quote:
Originally Posted by jonah View Post
Did you fix the problem with the gearbox mount?
Not yet. It seems to be a bit less than before though, the mounts must be compressing a bit. I did fit a few washers between the M90 and the aluminium bracket that holds the mount to space it a bit further forward. Maybe that helps too, I don't know. Later I'll probably make the same mount as Captain Bondo, that seems to be the better option.
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Old 04-27-2010, 11:40 AM   #100
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Fitted the summer wheels again, much better than the winter tires I had on there before (winter tires+hot weather = thesuck). No pics yet, we all know how Virgo's look.

I have a much improved ignition map in the EZK now, torque in all rpms is better (more advance down low and less up top). Viking ecomax fuel chip. Last fillup i got almost 20 MPG on E85 (2x 60 mile trip+city driving+WOT driving very mixed).
I still smell E85 during/after WOT (maybe from crankcase ventilation? or?) and sometimes the engine feels rich (had some good bangs from the exhaust), so there is still room for improvement. Need to fix the wideband asap.

The base idle has been re-adjusted as well, wont stall after boosting now and when the Efan kicks in the rpm stays stable instead of dropping to 500 rpm shortly.

A ghetto catch can made its way into the engine bay:


Made from some leftover plumbing stuff I grabbed from the metal bin somewhere...


I got a thermocouple from ebay and with some help at school to get a tap/die in the right (non metric) size, it was installed. Chinabay stuff = odd sizes.
The turbine housing has a M12x1 port for a thermocouple (M12x1 is used more for automotive tc's it seems). I used a plug from an ABS unit which was also M12x1, tapped that for the right size at school.


Multimeter on the dash (Sbabbs style Yo!). I need to fix it to the heater vent, it keeps falling off when i accelerate. The values I am getting are strange though, never seen temps above 400 degrees Centigrade. And it doesn't react fast to throttle input. I guess the sensor might not be far enough in the stream (I think it is ~7-8 mm in the stream).
We'll see how temp readings improve with the sensor mounted differently and/or a different dvm. Ideally i'd get the vems EGT sensor+gauge but that one is a bit out of my budget right now

Last edited by JW240; 04-27-2010 at 02:17 PM..
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