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Old 01-17-2018, 07:07 PM   #1
VB242
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Default Best fit flares for early 242

Go ahead I'm ready to take the abuse, but I want/need much more rubber on the road, like 315 section width in the rear. Because autocross. I've hacked out the inner fender, hammered it up and welded it back, so the hard part is done I can just get some wheels and hack it the edge of the fender with a cutoff wheel. These remind of the one period correct pic I saw posted on a popular science or mechanics on TB.



Are there direct fit flares out there, maybe in the motherland?
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Old 01-17-2018, 07:51 PM   #2
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Add on flares for 242. 10" wide wheels and 275's.
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Old 01-17-2018, 08:24 PM   #3
dl242gt
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The berserker has flares. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=328513
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Old 01-18-2018, 01:51 AM   #4
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If you are cutting and welding already, why not just pull the fender out?

315 Hoosier Race tire (steam rollers ):


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Old 01-18-2018, 04:52 AM   #5
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I think I'm at the limits of pulling, I was running 235/45/18 last year, a smaller diameter wheel might let me go wider I suppose
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Old 01-18-2018, 04:30 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VB242 View Post
I think I'm at the limits of pulling, I was running 235/45/18 last year, a smaller diameter wheel might let me go wider I suppose
I think you are missing something. That pic is tucking a 315/30-18 Hoosier with a pulled 1/4 panel.
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Old 01-18-2018, 05:37 PM   #7
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Take a cut down the butt check and up over the wheel arch then you can pull the rear 1/4 out quite a bit. I pulled mine ~ 1.5 inches at the widest point which was right where the mud flap attaches. It really opens up the back of the arch which is the most constrictive point.
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Old 01-18-2018, 10:42 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuff240 View Post
If you are cutting and welding already, why not just pull the fender out?

315 Hoosier Race tire (steam rollers ):


More information on this mod please! My fender lips are rusted and need changing.
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Old 01-18-2018, 10:50 PM   #9
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I know towery is busy these days, maybe this post will summon him.

He's got a lot of good info out there if you feel like digging for a bit, and haven't done so already.
I.E
Edit because I found the more recent post I was looking for:
Quote:
Originally Posted by towerymt View Post
It's a lot of work either way. You can move the inside or the outside. I chose to move the body outward and just mash the inner fender in as much as I could. I also ground down the flange on the trailing arm where the tire still rubbed after I hammered on the chassis.

A few pics here where I hammered and ground and then painted white so I could easily spot tire rubs and address further tire rubbage: http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/240&page=25

If you're willing to pull the quarter ~1.5", you can fit a lot of tire w/o rubbing, even when cornering.






Last edited by MDVLN; 01-18-2018 at 11:02 PM..
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Old 01-19-2018, 02:04 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canuck View Post
More information on this mod please! My fender lips are rusted and need changing.
Green = Drill out all the spot weld and separate the 1/4 panel from the car.
Blue = Solid cut along the bottom of the 1/4 panel. Wider tires will need longer cut here. Usually sufficient for 275-295's.
Red Dashes = If you are going really wide like 305+, you will most likely have to cut up to near the trim line to relieve the stress on the 1/4 panel. Warning, this looks weird in person. A small stretch to fit 275's-295's isn't bad, but above that you are really moving the 1/4 panel out quit a bit. At that point you should maybe cut the top and move it out also so it doesn't look so weird.

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Old 01-19-2018, 10:54 AM   #11
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Body work is one of the things I haven't done much of in my years. How are you guys pulling the fender? Like... physically? Are you welding tabs and pulling it? Are you doing it by hand?

Also that blue car in the OP is one of my fave Volvo's ever.
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Old 01-19-2018, 11:50 AM   #12
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Perfect - thanks for taking the time to doodle that up. It may be a few years before it gets done, but it needs doing. I'll shape it up so it doesn't look weird.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuff240 View Post
Green = Drill out all the spot weld and separate the 1/4 panel from the car.
Blue = Solid cut along the bottom of the 1/4 panel. Wider tires will need longer cut here. Usually sufficient for 275-295's.
Red Dashes = If you are going really wide like 305+, you will most likely have to cut up to near the trim line to relieve the stress on the 1/4 panel. Warning, this looks weird in person. A small stretch to fit 275's-295's isn't bad, but above that you are really moving the 1/4 panel out quit a bit. At that point you should maybe cut the top and move it out also so it doesn't look so weird.

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Old 01-19-2018, 12:14 PM   #13
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Craig, you can always practice on mine first.....


EvilEvo- once the spot welds are drilled out, use a scissor jack inside the spare tire well to push on the fender to the desired location.

Jordan
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Old 01-19-2018, 02:18 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTJordan View Post
Craig, you can always practice on mine first.....


EvilEvo- once the spot welds are drilled out, use a scissor jack inside the spare tire well to push on the fender to the desired location.

Jordan
Are you finding the spot welds on the inside or grinding or what?
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Old 01-19-2018, 02:37 PM   #15
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Where the quarter skin wraps over the inner wheel well. There’s little dimples every so often. Drill them out or cut them out.
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Old 01-19-2018, 04:03 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTJordan View Post
Craig, you can always practice on mine first.....


EvilEvo- once the spot welds are drilled out, use a scissor jack inside the spare tire well to push on the fender to the desired location.

Jordan
Get it running and drive it down (gauntlet thrown...or at least casually dropped)! Mine are pretty rusty so when I cut them off and replace them, I will either find a set of front fenders and use them as flares or just do this. Either way, I'd like to be able to go to maybe 245's on this car.
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Old 01-19-2018, 08:12 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canuck View Post
Get it running and drive it down (gauntlet thrown...or at least casually dropped)! Mine are pretty rusty so when I cut them off and replace them, I will either find a set of front fenders and use them as flares or just do this. Either way, I'd like to be able to go to maybe 245's on this car.
245's would be really easy since you can do that with rolled fenders and perfect offset.
Here is me playing with 275's on 18x10's with front fender arches:

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Old 01-19-2018, 10:01 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuff240 View Post
245's would be really easy since you can do that with rolled fenders and perfect offset.
Here is me playing with 275's on 18x10's with front fender arches:

Wish I had those wheels. I may look for something lighter than the Tethys that I have now. I just never see 240's in the JY anymore. If anyone has a set of front fenders they would cut the arches out of - I'd make it worth their while.
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Old 01-19-2018, 11:32 PM   #19
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My parts car is an 87 244. I'm in Raleigh though... might be a bit of a trip to Alberta?

Not too sure how good they are anymore either. The car did good hard duty as my winter car up north before being retired. Can snap pics tomorrow. PM if interested.
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Old 01-20-2018, 12:22 AM   #20
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Perhaps graft on another set of rears overtop:




https://raybuck.com/product/1975-93-...assenger-side/
(they have the other side too)
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Old 01-20-2018, 03:59 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canuck View Post
Wish I had those wheels. I may look for something lighter than the Tethys that I have now. I just never see 240's in the JY anymore. If anyone has a set of front fenders they would cut the arches out of - I'd make it worth their while.
Those wheels aren't expensive at all.

If you are not in a rush, I'll be doing a front end swap on an 83 242 probably sometime this summer. The old fenders aren't very good, but they should be fine for what you are wanting to do. Rust free California car of course.
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Old 01-23-2018, 10:15 PM   #22
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Front fender lips cut and flipped (left front goes on right rear, right front goes on left rear)









295/35/17 on 17x11:




I'm hoping to be back in a garage this fall to get back on this thing. Sad.

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Old 01-23-2018, 10:18 PM   #23
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where'd the other three pieces go??
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Old 01-24-2018, 11:52 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stiggy Pop View Post
where'd the other three pieces go??
tape v. welds
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Old 01-24-2018, 12:34 PM   #25
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Quote:
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tape v. welds
Well yeah, I just assumed you had them all cut and taped in place you'd have zapped em on
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