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Old 02-01-2018, 04:59 PM   #1
GreatDaneShane
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Default Extended lower control arms and sway bar end link mounting- 240

So I daily a lifted 84 244, and it eats up tires like a mf. Due to the lift it has more positive camber than it should, even adjusted all the way out. I have a set of spare control arms I'll be extending with some 1/4 inch plate a la travisminchew's thread. My issue is that the sway bar end link mount is right where the third mounting hole will be located if I extend them.

So my question is this- how much freedom do i have to move the mounting point away from its original spot?

Can I use a piece of 1/4 thick angle iron to mount the end link instead of the U shaped piece?

How critical is having both sides of the fastener supported? I'll be using adjustable end links with heim joints on either side.
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Old 02-01-2018, 05:16 PM   #2
Jack
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1. all depends on angle and how well you weld it. Thankfully the CA are made of good thick steel
2. yes, I dont see why not
3. the more surface area the better for anything you weld

how good are you with a welder ?


better option is to ditch the sways and spend your money on better shocks/coilovers

a lot of Lt (long travel) suspensions ditch those anyway. I dont have any on my t100
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Old 02-01-2018, 06:42 PM   #3
culberro
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KL Racing has 25mm extended control arms, and they have the same issue. General consensus is to make a u-bracket that mounts using the inner most ball joint bolt/stud, or to weld on a u-shaped piece of metal. The u-piece will need a through hole to pick up the lower end-link bushing.

-Choose a spot that has the end-link in a straight line down to the control arm, when the mounting end of the sway bar is horizontal. This should all be done at ride height.

-1/4in angle is beef-cake.

- Single shear connections are not that efficient. There's a reason why the original is double-shear.
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Old 02-01-2018, 06:56 PM   #4
blkaplan
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I got to finish the revamp of my adjustable front arms.
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Old 02-01-2018, 11:44 PM   #5
Tuff240
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My lifted wagon has +1* positive camber and it doesn't wear the tires strangely at all. Have you checked your toe settings?
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Old 02-02-2018, 03:51 PM   #6
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I got to finish the revamp of my adjustable front arms.
YES!!!
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Old 02-02-2018, 05:36 PM   #7
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I welded in a bolt for that rear position when I did mine. Three years of autocross later and there is no problem. I only added 25 mm as that was enough to get me into -2.5° at ride height. So consider this when you go lengthening things.
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Old 02-05-2018, 12:14 PM   #8
towerymt
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We had the ball joint spaced out about an inch on the lemons car. I don't have detailed pics of the spacer Pete made, and the pics are dead on this old thread...

https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=164662

I believe ours was just two pieces stacked and welded. Holes for the outer two bolts, threaded hole for the inner bolt, so it threads into the adapter rather than going through the control arm to attach the ball joint to the adapter. The adapter is bolted through the stock holes, so no issue with the end link bracket.

Here are a few of my pictures of our car:





Keep an eye on your control arms...



I noticed the left front wheel was unusually far forward in the fender opening prior to a race. Couldn't figure it out...the fenders weren't exactly pristine, but the near-tire-rub was definitely not normal. Finally figured it out when I got under and looked things over.
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Old 02-05-2018, 04:18 PM   #9
Tuff240
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Looks familiar...

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Old 02-06-2018, 06:43 PM   #10
towerymt
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Originally Posted by Tuff240 View Post
Looks familiar...

(broken 240 control arm pic)
Was that from Badger (rust to blame?) or a more performance driven car?
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Old 02-06-2018, 07:22 PM   #11
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Was that from Badger (rust to blame?) or a more performance driven car?
I hope to hell not! If so, I need to dip my rust belt car in a vat of unobtanium.
Seriously though, these images reinforce my fears of the 28mm sway bar installed without control arm upgrades. Those are serious breaks not just pull through!
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Old 02-06-2018, 08:32 PM   #12
Tuff240
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Quote:
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Was that from Badger (rust to blame?) or a more performance driven car?
Yes, it was Badger. Badger had no rust. Very dry Cali car.

I attributed it to lots of miles (600k), terrible control arm angle from being so low and just me driving the **** out of it all the time.
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