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740 Brake Pads for Lemons Track Days, or how to avoid fires.

vinzclortho

New member
Joined
Oct 13, 2008
So, we raced last weekend in Lemons Southern Discomfort 2011 at Carolina Motorsports Park. Halfway through Saturday, thing were going well.. about 5 hours in we were in 9th place (out of 50) after a driver change and the car was running great. All of a sudden Hoggster comes in and says that he has no brakes. I take the front driver wheel off and see a small fire coming from the caliper... awesome. I spray it w/ a fire bottle and it goes out, mostly.. and we see that there is a small amount of brake fluid leaking from the calipers because the pads are totally gone and the backing plates are red-hot and melted to the pistons. So, we try to pull the pads out to replace them and the pistons come out welded to the backing plates, followed by all of the brake fluid in the reservoir, which promptly lights on fire.

This picture is just after the fire got put out :
IMG_2293.JPG


The pads & pistons:
IMG_2295.JPG


Other side of that pad :
IMG_2297.JPG



Luckily we managed to find another caliper about 30 mins away, but it still ruined the rest of the day of racing and put us back about 20 places. So we need better brake pads.

We've been using PBR MetalMasters/XPGs in previous races and haven't really had problems with them. We usually got a whole race out of a set of front pads, but just barely. The performance of the brakes were always good.. it was one of our advantages on the track. Two things changed this race -
1) The track was a lot faster due to fewer cars, less flags, etc. The car was marginally faster, so all in all more/harder braking. Lots of other teams had similar issues this race.
2) Before the race, one of our 36mm rear calipers died and we replaced both rears with 40mm calipers. This seemed to make the pedal travel further to get the brakes to bite, which would have the effect of burning through the fronts faster.

We had a pair of PBR Ceramic pads that we tried on the track day before the race and didn't like.. we were advised against those, so we used (and burned through) 2 sets of crappy organic pads on Sunday and finished metal-to-metal again, minus the fire, by the end of the day.

We really need to find better pads that can preferably make it through a whole race. We can deal with pads that will make it through 1 day if we have to. Other teams at the race evangelize their Hawk pads, but I've been having a hard time finding Hawks for our 2-piston Girling calipers. It looks like I can find EBC pads for the Girlings, but I can't find too much info on them. Upgrading to larger rotors isn't really an option for us.. we have ~15 virgos and can't fit anything larger under them.

So, what are our options? Brakes don't count for the $500 Lemons budget, so cost is not an issue, within reason.
 
For AutoX, I've been very happy with the EBC Yellows on my wife's Mini. On standard, non-slotted/xdrilled rotors, the car really shrugs off speed. And they seem to work great, hot and cold. But how they would last in that kind of environment, I have no idea.

How bad were they fading before the massive failure?
 
That should not have happened... Are you sure the calipers weren't sticking? As for brake ducting, cut a big chunk out of the backing plates and use what's left of them to attach some brake ducting. Just fasten the ducts to holes in the chin spoiler or just let their inlets hang underneath.
 
I'd call up Carbotech. They'll make them for you (cheaper than Porterfield and very comparable) and they've got a wide selections of linings that they should be able to help you pick through. They're great guys to deal with and make an excellent product.

Going to a very high quality ceramic should increase both pad and rotor life. And look into adding ducts.
 
Those rotors are going to wear the pads faster because of those slots. Get solid steel rotors if your not having fade problems.

Also, I'm pretty sure you dont need backing shields for racing.

Good luck finding a good pad.
 
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Thanks for the custom-pad suggestions. We'll look into them.

re: 'maintenance crew', we started the day with fresh pads and ideally you only make stops in the hot pit where you are only allowed to change drivers and add fuel, so we need the pads to last all day.

re: sticking calipers. Nope, the other side was out of pad as well, so they were wearing at roughly the same absurd rate.

re: rotors/not needing backing shields. Yeah, the rotors might wear the pads a bit faster. We're probably going solid next time. We don't need the backing shields except that there's pretty often debris on the track and we hadn't had brake issues in the 3 races before this one, so we didn't have a reason to mess with them. We'll definitely be ditching and/or modifying them.
 
I have about 10 years experience on the slotted rotors on both 240's and 940's and I've always used OEM pads on those cars. I've found the slotted rotors to wear the pads at about 15-20% faster than a smooth rotor. I would imagine the same would hold true of any pad.



And... you don't have brake trouble on the track until the pads seize to the rotor which rips off the caliper which in turn beats the rest of the suspension to death. :)
 
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Jumbos

Jumbos (280 mm) and bigs (287mm but thinner) will go under any other 15 inch other than a Virgo! Dracos should be the easiest to find, or steels if you think you won't fatigue them around the stud-holes.
 
Do you dare rig up some sort of oil temp sensor, close to the caliper? That way, if you notice the gauge getting way up there, you can dial the aggressiveness back a bit.

Not sure if they have temperature gauges that go up that high or not....but it's just an idea.
 
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