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+T now.....oil leaks

thismachine13

New member
Joined
Sep 22, 2015
Location
Kansas City
'89 245 now a week with a +T install. I'm assuming that the added crankcase pressure that the turbo induces is enough to show every weak seal? Thought it was just the missing o ring at the oil separator box. I had noticed oil there and discovered whoever put it in last didn't use an o ring. Removed the oil separator, cleaned it well. Now it seems to be leaking pretty good and maybe at the rear main seal now too.

So is this common for after adding a turbo?

Thanks
 
Clogged flame trap blows out seals and with the increase pressure in block doesn't help. Once I got past 15psi I added 5/8" hose to a catch can and just vented it into the atmosphere. It works perfectly.
 
Someone else commented on another thread that turbos didn't have the "flame trap" which is the piece on top of the hose.....correct?

Turbo cars still use the oil separator box as well or no?

The oil separator box is super clean after yesterday so I don't understand why it's leaking so bad. Wouldn't think to be that much pressure.

Mine is currently vented to atmosphere. I've got something I'm going to try today to get it recirculated.
 
Did you route the pcv correctly so boost isn't going to the crankcase?

Try using an external catch can
 
Did you route the pcv correctly so boost isn't going to the crankcase?

Try using an external catch can

I've got it just as it was stock NA. Oil separator box with hose up from the box and the stub of "flame trap" at the end of the hose.....that's it.

Maybe I should have poked a wire down the tube under the oil separator box that leads into the block. I know not to try and remove it but maybe that is clogged or restricted.

Thanks for all the feedback. Much appreciated.
 
I've got it just as it was stock NA. Oil separator box with hose up from the box and the stub of "flame trap" at the end of the hose.....that's it.

Maybe I should have poked a wire down the tube under the oil separator box that leads into the block. I know not to try and remove it but maybe that is clogged or restricted.

Thanks for all the feedback. Much appreciated.

Turbos did NOT use the flame trap, correct. They used a different "tee" piece that routed back to pre turbo.

Also, check to see if that oil is coming from your rear cam seal (feel). When I went +T I blew that hot action right out of the head and puked oil all over the bloody place. They make a plate to hold it in place.

This is the piece the turbos used in lieu of the flame trap (can be found other places as well)
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-pcv-breather-nipple-turbo-models-1332660

This is that plate
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/556...s-r4_RvJxokvEPimhr-I5xvwVN6ZSeAAaAm85EALw_wcB
 
Update.....seems the oil is coming from the turbo oil feed and I used the oil warning sensor location for the feed. When I removed the sensor from what I had read I was expecting 1/8" NPT (now know that is the B21/23 blocks), surprised when I saw that it was larger than 1/8". So I "assumed" it was 1/4" npt which was the size of the fitting I had.....which threaded into the hole. Wrapped it with teflon and thought it good. Now realize it is 14m x 1.5, have just ordered the correct adapter fitting to stop the slow drip of oil.

Shot myself in the foot once again.:oops:
 
Nope....wrong again. While it was dripping a bit from the oil feed this thing is definitely pushing oil out of the seals.

So I'm waiting on the Viper ports to arrive so I can put a 16mm port in the side of my silicone turbo intake hose so I can finally get the PVC routed like a stock 740 turbo would have been. Found this piece from the donor 740 that I got all my turbo parts from and my question is....

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...models-1332660

does the vacuum for this also come from a manifold port as well? Seems having the 16mm hose pipe into the turbo inlet hose would create enough vacuum to keep the crankcase evacuated.
 
Link does not work. I am interested to see this "donor" piece you are talking about that would in theory be routed like a stock 740 turbo.

To answer your question, the vacuum /pressure (if you can call it that) is infact drawn in from the inlet/intake hose you are referring to. (and to a lesser degree the second, smaller vacuum hose that connects to the throttle body vacuum hose) Furthermore, I am assuming the majority of PCV gas evacuation is done under boost. (Not much suction at idle in my experience with my recent +T and PCV problems just like you).

(I am kindof starting to regret the plus T as I have added multiple layers of complexity to the car's operation and fault areas. (I now have a oil leaks, idle problems, cold start problems I can live with). I have added a catch can so far, still no suction at oil cap at idle. )
 
That's weird. I'll take a piccie when I get home.

It's basically a small plastic piece with 5/8"(16mm) on both ends to accept the 5/8" hose with a vacuum port sticking out of it. Imagine a flame trap without the end that has holes popped in it.

Well I went from a completely leak free engine to a dripping mess. Lol. My conversion has gone swimmingly minus the leaks, a slight rough idle (I've got ideas about what's causing it) and an exhaust leak where the turbo mounts. That should be fixed with the arrival of my Remflex gasket. The most disconcerting of these at the mo are the oil leaks. Hoping to be resolved when I get the a proper PCV line hooked up, just waiting on a shipment from the UK to arrive.
 
Z2p3IJDl.jpg
 
Vent your valve cover and use the vacuum from the air intake hose like the stock setup. That should help a lot. Check out the Stealthfti pbase page on how he added more pcv to his breather box. Although the problem is a lot of these engines now have a blocked drain back hose in the block so it is best to add something to help.

You can use a separate catch can to vent from the valve cover and stock oil trap. Then from the catch can to the air intake hose for vacuum while running. If I recall correctly Yoshifab or one of the Volvo sites I was browsing also had a vent for where the block off plate is on the block behind the distributor.
 
The Viper pieces I ordered a couple weeks back showed up today.

Ui3NhaIl.jpg


Wasn't happy with the siliconeintakes.com versions so I got these. The larger one inch is for the BOV and the 16mm is for the PCV at the turbo intake. I'll hook it up this afternoon and hope it makes a difference in venting the crankcase. If not allayed plans B,C and D are as you mention above.
 
Looks like some good parts. Don't forget to check out stealthfti pbase information. He also explains how the gas flow speed needs to be correct so the oil will separate properly from the fumes.
 
Will do. Threw it all together then rolled out for the work Xmas party. Seems to be ok. It's got a slightly rough idle but I'm pretty sure that's from the exhaust leak at manifold to turbo.

I'm parked at a newer house for sale across the street from the party. Nice fresh concrete so I'll be able to judge pretty well how much the oil leak has slowed......or not. :lol:
 
The stealthfti pbase is great info!! I may do a homemade catch can like what he has done, sometime in the future.

For now it seems that setting up the PCV vent much like the stock setup is working. Just a drop or two of oil after running an errand on the other side of town. Now I need to clean up the engine so I can keep a better eye on what might show up as a leak later.

Thanks for everyone's input.
 
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