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T5 swap, all you need to know

pengee said:
I got the fiber-carbon disk, and the clutchnet pressure plate and had my flywheel resurfaced and the pressure plate balanced with it. Everything is back together and I adjusted the clutch to where it should be sitting. Could not get the car in gear as the pressure plate was not disengaging the clutch. After a million different adjustments and notching the bellhousing I can adjust it in so far that the fork hit the pressure plate?!?! Still with it that far in it was engaged.

(I'm gonna make an assumption that with the engine off you can row through all 5 gears with no difficulty, and with the engine running it won't go into gear) You might want to make absolutely sure that you put the disc in the right way. A buddy of mine did that on his Jeep, he installed the clutch disc backwards, not allowing it to go into gear when running. Just my $0.02
 
Yes, with the car off I can go into any gear with out problem. When the car is running it can't.
When I did the clutch the first time I found that it could not even be put in backwards as the springs in the hub would hit the bolts on the flywheel.
In my 740wagon I was able to put it in backwards one time :oops: but it was obvious when I started the car.
 
I had this problem when I did my T5 swap. Are you using one of JP's pressure plates?

I have a feeling that the "teeth" on the PP aren't tall enough. Noah is using an OEM pressure plate and his works fine, mine however I needed to extended my throw out bearing. It did the exact same thing.
 
This is the pressure plate that JP sells, he gets them from clutchnet. I know I saw a picture of it in someone?s install, maybe it was dbartons, I could be wrong though. They used all the same parts as I have and I don't recall them having problems.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>

That was another thought, to extend the bearing. Do you have any pictures of yours? Also, are you using the same one that you mentioned at the beginning of the thread.
Or do you think it would work very well to make the pivot ball on the other side of the fork stand off farther?
Thanks for the info.
 
I have the same equipment and the same problem. My best guess at this point is that more travel is needed from the Volvo clutch. I'm going to check out under the pedal first to see if I can do anything there first. I don't think we need more than about half an inch. If the tranny has to come out, at least everything is clean.
 
I agree, when I started this I had a centerforce pp and it requires a lot less travel than the clutchnet pp to disengage the clutch. When I talked with JP he wanted me to use that one in the long run so that we could see if it was a better solution than the to the swap. However, he said that he was going with clutchnet, reguardless I think, because centerforce would not sell the volvo pp with the ford clutch.
I got another flywheel yesterday, it is stock and about twice as thick as the lightened one that I have in now. I am going to put it in today when I get it back from the shop and maybe extend the pivot a little. I am guessing this will help out if not solve the problem.
I am also considering getting a new centerforce pp since the old one worked so well.
 
To Dave or Turborg,
I understand you both are using the new t5"Z" transmission. If you dont mind me asking, where did you guys get them and what did you pay? I cant seem to find any sources for the "Z" online. Thanks, Noah
 
well I just thought I would let you guys know that I have narrowed down the problem to the pressure plate. I pulled everything out today and found that the teeth on the pp are not even. I played with it and found that one of the outer springs is, I think, more firm than the rest. I must not have noticed this when I installed it. So, I tossed in my old centerforce pp and clutch just to get me by. I am going to be ordering a new centerforce pp this week and I am saving my other new clutch to go with it. I practically have two of everything now.
As for the centerforce pp I have been more than happy with it. The travel involved was no different than the factory volvo pp. The fork does not come too close to the bellhousing under propper adjustment and the clutch is spinning free. With this pp I can shift into reverse all the time with no grinding and never having to hit first gear before doing so.

Anyways....correct me if I am wrong but it seems that everyone running the clutchnet pp setup has had some problems here and there. Let me know what you all think. Maybe I am just irritated :-P
 
clutch problem

Pengee: I am really surprised it could be the pressure plate, but it does make sense as the guys running OEM plates are having no problems. And your expirence speaks volumes. Are you going to try to get your money back? I am if I can prove it is the plate. Does anyone have a positive expirence I felt that the pressure plate was weak from the get go but I thought it was other problems. Thanks for the post.
 
Being that all pressure plates are just modified oems for the most part I have no way of knowing if what clutchnet is selling is no good. Maybe I just got a bad one, or maybe they just don't have them dialed in yet.
In any case I am not getting another one, but I will be trying to get a refund. Who knows how good they are with that, I guess I will find out. <u1:shapetype id="_x0000_t75" coordsize="21600,21600" u2:spt="75" u2:preferrelative="t" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" filled="f" stroked="f"><u1:stroke joinstyle="miter"><u1:formulas><u1:f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"><u1:f eqn="sum @0 1 0"><u1:f eqn="sum 0 0 @1"><u1:f eqn="prod @2 1 2"><u1:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth"><u1:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight"><u1:f eqn="sum @0 0 1"><u1:f eqn="prod @6 1 2"><u1:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth"><u1:f eqn="sum @8 21600 0"><u1:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight"><u1:f eqn="sum @10 21600 0"></u1:f><u1:path u2:extrusionok="f" gradientshapeok="t" u2:connecttype="rect"><u2:lock u1:ext="edit" aspectratio="t"></u2:lock><u1:shape id="_x0000_i1025" type="#_x0000_t75" alt="" style="width: 11.25pt; height: 11.25pt;"><u1:imagedata src="file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5Cpengee%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmsohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_image001.gif" u2:href="http://forums.turbobricks.com/images/smilies/icon_sad.gif"></u1:imagedata><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shapetype id="_x0000_t75" coordsize="21600,21600" o:spt="75" o:preferrelative="t" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" filled="f" stroked="f"> <v:stroke joinstyle="miter"/> <v:formulas> <v:f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"/> <v:f eqn="sum @0 1 0"/> <v:f eqn="sum 0 0 @1"/> <v:f eqn="prod @2 1 2"/> <v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth"/> <v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight"/> <v:f eqn="sum @0 0 1"/> <v:f eqn="prod @6 1 2"/> <v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth"/> <v:f eqn="sum @8 21600 0"/> <v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight"/> <v:f eqn="sum @10 21600 0"/> </v:formulas> <v:path o:extrusionok="f" gradientshapeok="t" o:connecttype="rect"/> <o:lock v:ext="edit" aspectratio="t"/> </v:shapetype><v:shape id="_x0000_i1025" type="#_x0000_t75" alt="" style='width:11.25pt; height:11.25pt'> <v:imagedata src="file:///C:DOCUME~1pengeeLOCALS~1Tempmsohtml11clip_image001.gif" o:href="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\pengee\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtml1\01\clip_image001.gif"/> </v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]-->:-(<!--[endif]-->
As far as everything sold or recommended by JP I am happy with it, including the clutchnet clutch, but not the pp. <u1:shape id="_x0000_i1026" type="#_x0000_t75" alt="" style="width: 12pt; height: 12pt;"><u1:imagedata src="file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5Cpengee%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmsohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_image002.gif" u2:href="http://forums.turbobricks.com/images/smilies/tongue.gif"></u1:imagedata><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape id="_x0000_i1026" type="#_x0000_t75" alt="" style='width:12pt;height:12pt'> <v:imagedata src="file:///C:DOCUME~1pengeeLOCALS~1Tempmsohtml11clip_image002.gif" o:href="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\pengee\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtml1\01\clip_image002.gif"/> </v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]-->:-P<!--[endif]-->
Seems that oem, centerforce or maybe something else would be the way to go.<o:p></o:p></u1:shape></u1:shape></u1:path></u1:f></u1:f></u1:f></u1:f></u1:f></u1:f></u1:f></u1:f></u1:f></u1:f></u1:f></u1:formulas></u1:stroke></u1:shapetype>
 
I guess there is no getting around pulling back out the trans. It is just that on my car the problem does not seem to be the clutch not disengaging. Usually when the clutch is not releasing, the car wants to move as you "chirp" it into gear. And when you start it in gear, the car wants to move a little in the direction of the gear. Neither of these happen on my car. The fact that I could easily turn the tailshaft with my hand with the clutch fork depressed before I installed the engine and trans, and not having the above symptoms is not mechanically logical to me. The fact that it shifts very easy as soon as the engine is shut off to me eliminates a trans related problem. Something is causing that input shaft to spin and I think it is something to do with pilot being. But it has to come out now.
Doug: Is your clutch working now? I thought the last we spoke you were having the same problem as Pengee and myself. Did you go back to an old set up?
 
I too think that it is the pilot bearing. I shimmed the trans away from the adapter and the trans stopped making noise(I think the noise is gone because the input shaft bearing is now free to float as it should instead of being pressed back to a rearward position)and I have a quick strong engagement of the clutch now. I actually backed off the adjustment of the clutch and the above resulted. I still have noise that I think is a result of a damaged pilot bearing but I am not going to pull the trans for a while as it is working OK for now. I think the pilot bearing was damaged by having the input shaft forced into it by improper clearance. Still just a theory til I pull it. Anyway, Davis here I come! Two days ago I didn't think there was anyway I could possibly make it. All these trans problems has also kept me from enjoying a exceptionally nice running B23FT. I should be happy that it was trans rather than motor problems.
 
1/4" thick plate steel welded to the bottom of the crossmember. Couldn't have been easier.

27481434.jpg



could I get some dimensions for this plate so I can make one?

Thanks,
Jeremy
 
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