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T5 swap with Deeworks plate issue

Yeah, I did and it still ripped. In my picture the o-ring isn't even installed, that's as far as it goes before it bottoms out. I guess there are a few different sizes of speedometer holes? I looked at some other plugs that look different size such as this one on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/BILLET-ALUMINUM-TAILHOUSING-SPEEDO-PLUG/dp/B013ZTGU2E.
carver said:
Mine fit perfectly, did you lube the o-ring with a little ATF before you installed? Only issue I had was the bolt was a little to long.
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Thanks, I'll let you know how it goes. After removing my aw-71 I bought the HF jack because I was not eager to do any more trans work without it, especially reinstallation. Before I go out and buy a magnetic holder for my dial indicator should I have any reason to believe my bellhousing alignment is off? I've never used the bellhousing before though, not sure if that would affect anything.
carver said:
Hell of a lot easier with the bellhousing done separately otherwise you need to rotate the whole damn thing to get the starter hump cleared. I would think it should just slip right in after initial alignment. Hope you have a transmission jack, makes life a lot easier unless you're fond of bench pressing 75 pounds of aluminum while under a car. The cheapo Harbor Freight scissor trans jack works fine for cars on jack stands. Try to get the trans input shaft splines lined up with the clutch hub before hand as close as possible. You may have to rotate the crank from the front bolt or if you have a helper follow culberro's advice. Take your time and check the clearance going in from time to time, don't force it. You don't want to mess up the pressure plate splines. I'm actually popping mine back in tomorrow as well... Good luck!
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DavePolyakov said:
Thanks, I'll let you know how it goes. After removing my aw-71 I bought the HF jack because I was not eager to do any more trans work without it, especially reinstallation. Before I go out and buy a magnetic holder for my dial indicator should I have any reason to believe my bellhousing alignment is off? I've never used the bellhousing before though, not sure if that would affect anything.
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My bellhousing was bang on for concentricity. I wouldn't say its 100% necessary but it helped me as a sanity check when tracking down all the rumbles and vibrations I had later on. If it off there isn't a whole lot you can do about anyway unless you can source some metric offset dowels.

I have to ask but when you installed you clutch did you use a alignment tool?
 
Yeah, a plastic clutch alignment tool came with Yoshifab's kit. It's good to hear that yours was bang on, I'm just trying to prepare myself for all the vibrations I'll encounter on my first drive, hopefully in the next week or so.
smoothdurban said:
My bellhousing was bang on for concentricity. I wouldn't say its 100% necessary but it helped me as a sanity check when tracking down all the rumbles and vibrations I had later on. If it off there isn't a whole lot you can do about anyway unless you can source some metric offset dowels.

I have to ask but when you installed you clutch did you use a alignment tool?
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DavePolyakov said:
Yeah, a plastic clutch alignment tool came with Yoshifab's kit. It's good to hear that yours was bang on, I'm just trying to prepare myself for all the vibrations I'll encounter on my first drive, hopefully in the next week or so.
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Did you change your pilot bearing as well? Things just keep coming to mind as I recall my swap.
 
DavePolyakov said:
Yep, It's a ford pilot. I'm going to try slapping it in in the next few hours.
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I double checked mine against the input shaft just to be certain. When trying to line up the splines I found it was helpful to have a "loose" slip yoke in the back of the trans so I had something to hold on to a twist the output shaft to aid in the spline alignment.

Best of luck. I hope you have a hoist!
 
It's quite a pita aligning the clutch with the input shaft. I've rotated the crank bolt slightly many times and keep wiggling and pushing the trans but it won't slide in.
 
Did you verify the clutch disc is correct, fits the input shaft?
Ford pilot bearing, not Volvo, correct?
You swapped the tube out in the bellhousing, correct?
Did you try putting the trans in gear, rotate the output shaft, to help the input line up to the clutch splines?
 
Yes to all of the above but I still have not purchased my slip yoke so I've been rotating the crank instead of the output shaft. Have not had any luck though. If it was aligned how much force does it normally take to push it in? Maybe I wasn't pushing hard enough?
 
If it is aligned and straight it should slide in pretty easy. If you have pressure on the trans while turning the engine over, you may be rotating the input shaft with the engine, negating what you're doing.
 
I think the angle of the trans on my jack was not quite perpendicular to the engine and that's why I was having trouble last night. I'll try to get it in today. Everything looks correct so I think it should slide in once I get the angles right. Now I just need to figure out why my speedometer block off plug doesn't fit.
gsellstr said:
If it is aligned and straight it should slide in pretty easy. If you have pressure on the trans while turning the engine over, you may be rotating the input shaft with the engine, negating what you're doing.
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So I got it to align with the clutch disk but there is still a gap, probably a centimeter now. I think it takes a little more force to get it to slide all the way into the pilot? I've tried laying down on my back and pushing it in the rest of the way with my feet but it will not go any further. Would I do damage if I evenly and slowly tighten the bolts to the trans? I feel like that's not the proper way to do it but I physically cannot push it in any further.
IMG-1790.jpg
 
Try using a ratchet strap to pull on the clutch fork and disengage the clutch as you push the trans in.
You want the trans mostly seated before you do this, otherwise the disk will fall down and you’ll have to use the clutch disk alignment tool again.
Doing this allows the clutch disk to float, and you only have to worry about seating the pilot end.
 
Thanks for that tip, it worked. However, the trans still isn't all the way on. I'm now having the same problem I had when I started this thread; that I can't mount the bell+plate to the transmission. I could only mount it all together by doing plate+trans and mounting the bellhousing by itself. Is it true the only way to use the Dee works plate is to mount it to the transmission first, then attach the bell? I swear this is the only way I've got mine to come together, for whatever reason. Unfortunately, it seems very difficult to install a t5 with the bellhousing attached so I feel like I'm honestly pretty confused.
IMG-1793.jpg
 
on the blue car I put the whole trans in after making sure the clutch was centered up. HF atv jack makes for a decent transmission jack if you're working with jackstands and such (which I was). some wiggling and shaking and an occasional spin on the crankshaft is all really took to put in.
 
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