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1+1=245

One star rating for misaligned fog lights.

those are aligned perfectly to blind 7/900 series owners vision causing them to go blind and swerve off the road (fingers crossed)


this was the first car I got.
22352643_1X.JPG


Do you know the weight difference between that and the factory tar paper?

the roof and door tar is super skinny but I can measure today when I do the rest
the floor stuff is long gone.

I'll get back to you
 
Do you know the weight difference between that and the factory tar paper?

oem tar from the roof (almost all the glue came off with it) - 14" x 31.5" weighs 495 grams
IMG_8624_zpszypkewlb.jpg


IMG_8627_zpsneosaqrz.jpg



dynamat extreme 31.5" x 14" on one end and and 14.5" on the other (me good with scissors) with the heavy backing paper weighs 658 grams

I would bet it's very close to 600g without paper and the exact 31.5x14
IMG_8628_zpskmjzpslr.jpg



Grumpy cat
her name is Tardar Sauce, she too hates 7/900. My daughter loves her!
 
Everyone knows who grumpy cat is.
but did you know her name?


correction:factory door stuff is actually different from the roof stuff

2"x2"
IMG_8682_zpsp8ket6wb.jpg


vs dynamat
IMG_8683_zps2q73fog7.jpg


Decided to remove the oem tar from passenger door and clean them up

before
IMG_8676_zpstlfuu3sc.jpg


after
IMG_8677_zpsrxgxzzyf.jpg


before
IMG_8674_zpspi8qe32b.jpg

[/IMG]

after
IMG_8675_zpsxqo1a0ln.jpg



With the windows removed I replaced the badly hazed glass with old tint that was scratched/pealing/turned purple. Thomas hooked me with with a front and rear set out of his 244 parts car

IMG_8680_zpsfmgrw3k5.jpg


I also did a quick test with the color matched paint for the hood
IMG_8681_zpsiwsfxixf.jpg



background on video
front door has the dynamat installed with no door panel
back door:oogle: factory stuff striped and no glass installed

http://vid122.photobucket.com/albums/o250/jack8745/VID_20160512_175915767_zpslxc9fdjh.mp4
 
Nice! Is the the paint from Tower that we talked about? I'm assuming it requires a clearcoat, due to the metallic?
Hard to tell from the picture if the paint is a good match. It might be correct for the color code, but mismatch due to the rest of the car being faded. Might consider painting the tops of the fenders and the cowl, for a more seamless match, if it looks funky.

Great to see the windows getting used! That tint was about 3 weeks old when I got the car. It's light tint, but it should look great, even with darker tint in the cargo area. Be sure and post pics of them installed when you get to it.

Keep the momentum going! That's going to be a luxury wagon by the time you finish putting $5K worth of Dynamat in there. LOL
 
Nice! Is the the paint from Tower that we talked about? I'm assuming it requires a clearcoat, due to the metallic?
Hard to tell from the picture if the paint is a good match. It might be correct for the color code, but mismatch due to the rest of the car being faded. Might consider painting the tops of the fenders and the cowl, for a more seamless match, if it looks funky.

Great to see the windows getting used! That tint was about 3 weeks old when I got the car. It's light tint, but it should look great, even with darker tint in the cargo area. Be sure and post pics of them installed when you get to it.

Keep the momentum going! That's going to be a luxury wagon by the time you finish putting $5K worth of Dynamat in there. LOL


Not sure if it need clear or not I keep putting off calling them, but yes paint is from tower. Hopefully I'll be paining today. Seems like a good match to the non-faded paint - which is only where trim was. Painting the fender tops will do nothing to the faded fender bottoms :-P


Im glad you hooked me up with them. Tint is almost non exhistant but it was the right price and really heps with the sun. Will post pictures soon. Im very happy with it.

This weekend I installed more dynamat and started the dynaliner (keep heat out) this stuff is awesome but expensive. I ran out and ordered more.

(sorry for the crap pictures)
IMG_20160513_151609789_zpsuhcm1ndw.jpg


back of the wagon with original deadener coming off...
IMG_20160513_155935780_zpsdhcztjii.jpg


IMG_20160513_174633204_zpslhw4qvnt.jpg



I also got a new license plate frame :oogle:
IMG_20160517_102506586_HDR_zpssqnypyzq.jpg
 
no, it's just really fine foam. Covered the roof on the black 850. On a 90F day I can't touch the roof but 1/4 inch (I used 1/2 inch in mosy places) dyanaliner is cool to the touch

they advertise is for heat insulation and as "fluff" mostly
 
Painting the fender tops will do nothing to the faded fender bottoms :-P

Two things. First, paint fades a lot more on the horizontal surfaces, because it gets hit directly by the light all the time. It's never in shade, like the vertical surfaces occasionally are. It's also being hit perpendicularly, which means the light reflects straight back up, harming the paint twice as much. It also gets much hotter than the sides. That's why you always see sunburn on the horizontal surfaces.

Second, there's that rounded corner at the top of the fenders, so there's a color change there due to the difference between light and shade. A paint change at that top fender corner would be more hidden than a paint change between the edge of the hood and the edge of the fender.

BUT, that being said, it's hard to blend metallics mid-panel like that. Even at the corner. You can't color sand the bare paint without hitting the metal flakes, which turns them into silver glitter. So you have to spray it down wet, skip sanding, then cover with clear and hope it's pretty flat. You can wet sand the clear, but it will show if it's all goofy and bumpy in the color underneath.

You're probably better off painting only the hood, and dealing with the fenders being slightly faded. Repaint the whole car someday when you have a lot of extra thousands of dollars.

And yes, I am fairly certain you will need clear on top of the blue layer. You should call them.
 
^ I just talked to them, single stage no clear needed.
what sandpaper grit should I use on hood before painting 400?

and after

look at the difference in "original" color vs faded where the trim and pin stripe was

IMG_20160517_125604316_HDR_zpsydcv40ne.jpg
 
You can use 400, yes. I just did fenders and hood on my VW that way and there are no scratch marks visible through the paint. Are you using cans or a gun ? Consider getting a small amount made to spray with a gun.
 
You can use 400, yes. I just did fenders and hood on my VW that way and there are no scratch marks visible through the paint. Are you using cans or a gun ? Consider getting a small amount made to spray with a gun.

cans, I need to buy a gun and do the roof next

400 yeah. Put a few drops of soap in your water while your wet sanding. You have a soft sanding block or similar?

I forgot all about that, I just had the hose on all the time. Good thing my nephew came over and helped me, made sanding a lot easier


IMG_20160517_160228125_HDR_zpsh4p3gahw.jpg



light first coat. I will let it cure and wetsand with 1500? tomorrow then spray it in the garage surrounded by plastic the next day. Any suggestions?

IMG_20160517_162032347_HDR_zpsbmrgn8yt.jpg
 
Looks good, especially for a rattle can job.

I'd give a few days before doing anything to it.

Thank you. I will give it about a week, I have more cans coming in so it's a good excuse to let it cure right. I learned early on that with paint it takes patience. I use to build model airplanes and other ww2 crap when I was in my early teens....

Looking good! Can't wait to see it on the car.

Thanks for all your pointers.
Like an idiot I didnt check the hood latch adjustment when I put it on and slammed it shut. My excuse is I was tired after a long day in the sun yesterday. I did however remember to remove the grill so it shouldn't be too bad to get it open again:oops::oops::oops: I know better too
 
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