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Old 01-16-2018, 01:13 AM   #1
PromiseRing
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Default 91 Regina 740 No Start

Friends car, hasn’t ran for a minute. I hear the fpr click and i hear the pump cycle. Swappped RSR with the fan relay. Pulled cylinder 1 plug, cranked it, got spark. Sprayed brake cleaner in the manifold and it didn’t even crank. Cranks very strong. Timing marks are all good. Not sure if the injectors are firing but i figured with brake clean and apart the vehicle should start. Cleaned injector grounds as well.

Bad crank sensor would equate to no spark right?
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Old 01-16-2018, 01:35 AM   #2
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...1 plug, cranked it, got spark....Bad crank sensor would equate to no spark right?
Correct-O...fuel side issue when spark exists.

On FPR's return side to fuel-tank, the hose can be removed from it. So attach another hose, that's inserted into a bottle, and run fuel pump. Could be plugged fuel filter...
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Old 01-16-2018, 01:40 AM   #3
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I just removed the cap and rotor, checked them, reinstalled, and it sputtered for 5-10 seconds, but won’t start again.
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Old 01-16-2018, 01:45 AM   #4
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Codes were initially 1-1-1 in both ports but since i got it to sputter, i retrieved a 2-2-3 and 3-2-1.
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Old 01-16-2018, 02:03 AM   #5
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We’re getting no tach jump while cranking either.
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Old 01-16-2018, 10:12 AM   #6
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Bad crank sensor can still cause a spark-no start. The ignition timing can be way off from a dying sensor.

You have to clear flood first before brake cleaner will work.
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Old 01-16-2018, 10:18 AM   #7
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Also some brake cleaner is non-flamable, I use carb cleaner.
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Old 01-16-2018, 10:27 AM   #8
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3-2-1.
Radio suppression relay
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Old 01-16-2018, 10:29 AM   #9
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I use carb cleaner.
I use the real stuff: Diethyl ether
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Old 01-16-2018, 12:35 PM   #10
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Bad crank sensor can still cause a spark-no start. The ignition timing can be way off from a dying sensor.

You have to clear flood first before brake cleaner will work.
Crank sensor is new, i know that doesnít mean it works though. So a crank sensor that has completely failed will cause a no spark no fuel symptom right? I didnít know that it could cause wonky timing too.
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Also some brake cleaner is non-flamable, I use carb cleaner.
He also put some gasoline down the intake and that didnít help
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Old 01-16-2018, 12:38 PM   #11
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Radio suppression relay
A google search shows me that a 3-2-1 and 2-2-3 are for IAC signal missing as well as cold start injector signal missing.


If the tachometer is not jumping while cranking (though it did a week or so ago but still no start), is that indicative of a bad ignition coil, or crank sensor, or either?

Also i can hear the RSR when cranking. We jumped the pump with 12v directly, heard it run, and still a crank no start. After cranking for 15 seconds or so, i pulled # plug and it was not soaked in gas. I am now 2 hours away from the car and know the owner is too lazy to test fuel pressure. Maybe he can pick up some actual starting fluid to make sure it will or won’t run off of that.

Forgot to also mention the main filter under the car is also brand new.

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Old 01-16-2018, 12:41 PM   #12
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A google search shows me that a 3-2-1 and 2-2-3 are for IAC signal missing as well as cold start injector signal missing.


If the tachometer is not jumping while cranking (though it did a week or so ago but still no start), is that indicative of a bad ignition coil, or crank sensor, or either?
I believe that's indicative of a Regina car.
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Old 01-16-2018, 12:51 PM   #13
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I believe that's indicative of a Regina car.
He said heís seen the tachometer jump while cranking before. Idk anything about Regina though so maybe heís wrong
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Old 01-16-2018, 12:54 PM   #14
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He said heís seen the tachometer jump while cranking before. Idk anything about Regina though so maybe heís wrong
I was joking that the no start conditon and intermittent tach are indicative that you have a Regina car, because itís less robust than the comparable Bosch system.
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Old 01-16-2018, 12:59 PM   #15
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I was joking that the no start conditon and intermittent tach are indicative that you have a Regina car, because itís less robust than the comparable Bosch system.
Oh yeah it seems to be trash IMO. Lh2.4 was more than capable of satisfying the majority of people, and itís easy as hell to work on.
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Old 01-16-2018, 02:36 PM   #16
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Tach not moving doesn't mean much. Some are wired that way.

What you need to do is basic diag like using a spark tester for $5, a spare spark if, a timing light, test light, scope, or anything to confirm spark. Timing light would be good for seeing if ti.ing is anywhere near where it should be.

Starting fluid works well too. I just had a truck I diagnosed as bad fuel pump in 5 minutes with brake cleaner. It sure as heck runs with brake cleaner busted into the throttle. No fuel pressure at the Schrader valve either.
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Old 01-16-2018, 02:49 PM   #17
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All of your grounds are good and clean, right?
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Old 01-16-2018, 02:57 PM   #18
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Quote:
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I was joking...Regina car, because itís less robust than the comparable Bosch system.
93-940-Rex-I/Regina: 0 įF with 0w-40 oil....Fires right up, no hesitation.

93-240 requires several crank rotations, before Bosch LH 2.4 engages spark/fuel....in hot/warm/cold weather.
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Old 01-16-2018, 03:03 PM   #19
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A google search shows me that a 3-2-1 and 2-2-3
Rex-I Codes - Read from Socket SIX

Regina Codes - Read from Socket TWO
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Old 01-16-2018, 03:24 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
Tach not moving doesn't mean much. Some are wired that way.

What you need to do is basic diag like using a spark tester for $5, a spare spark if, a timing light, test light, scope, or anything to confirm spark. Timing light would be good for seeing if ti.ing is anywhere near where it should be.

Starting fluid works well too. I just had a truck I diagnosed as bad fuel pump in 5 minutes with brake cleaner. It sure as heck runs with brake cleaner busted into the throttle. No fuel pressure at the Schrader valve either.
Is pulling a plug, grounding it to strut tower bolt, cranking motor and watching it spark not conclusive enough? I also pulled the coil wire off the dist cap and cranked motor. Saw a very fat spark. I know for a fact at least some spark is going on. Still weirded out that plugs looked almost dry which would indicate a fueling issue, but it still wouldnít even chuckle with brake clean. I told the owner to go buy some actual starting fluid and we will see if that helps.
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All of your grounds are good and clean, right?
I canít say they ALL are, but i cleaned the injector grounds and valve cover grounds. Did not clean the ones that are on the firewall though
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93-940-Rex-I/Regina: 0 įF with 0w-40 oil....Fires right up, no hesitation.

93-240 requires several crank rotations, before Bosch LH 2.4 engages spark/fuel....in hot/warm/cold weather.
Sounds like an LH issue, mine are perfect albeit cranking slowly which is normal. They always start first try (lh2.4), B cam idles like **** when cold though but thatís to be expected.
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Originally Posted by 84B23F View Post
Rex-I Codes - Read from Socket SIX

Regina Codes - Read from Socket TWO
I found Regina codes to be the same according to brickboard 700/900 FAQ. Maybe i should heck again.
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Old 01-16-2018, 05:45 PM   #21
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^
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Old 01-16-2018, 07:08 PM   #22
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Spark at the king lead doesn't mean spark at the plugs. If its not firing on alternate fuel and has spark at all 4 plug wires, it's mechanical. Like a timing belt jumped.
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Old 01-16-2018, 07:10 PM   #23
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Harbor freight timing light would tell you if you have spark and if your timing is correct. $8 could have saved you hours.
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Old 01-16-2018, 07:17 PM   #24
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Spark at the king lead doesn't mean spark at the plugs. If its not firing on alternate fuel and has spark at all 4 plug wires, it's mechanical. Like a timing belt jumped.
Checked timing and it is in time. Waiting for dip**** owner to try real starter fluid.
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Harbor freight timing light would tell you if you have spark and if your timing is correct. $8 could have saved you hours.
I have a timing light 4 hours from the car, but he doesnít. If it doesnít start on the real starter fluid Iíll suggest he borrows a timing light.
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Old 01-16-2018, 08:08 PM   #25
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I canít say they ALL are, but i cleaned the injector grounds and valve cover grounds. Did not clean the ones that are on the firewall though:oops
My experience with this is limited but I have been working on a Regina 740 recently; so far when it cranks well but doesn't catch and start, it's been a slightly crusty ground that might look fine. That said, I know all the other parts involved in starting the car work OK so YMMV.

The points on the front fenders were prone to this due to exposure, and I started having issues with the ones inside the car after I, uh, removed all the windows and the interior and left it outside.
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