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Old 09-21-2011, 09:13 PM   #1
JohnMc
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Default PV gets a bumper

The PV has been without a rear bumper for about 7 years, maybe more. Mostly because the stock bumper looks clunky, heavy, bulky, etc.




But it doesn't look quite right without a bumper either. The rear end visually pinches in too far, looks sort of unfinished.


So we're trying to empty out my grand-mother-in-laws house recently, I'm out in the garage poking around, and I see an old bumper. Uncle-in-law John says it's from a '41 Ford he used to have, certainly hasn't the faintest need for it any more, at all, go ahead and take it.

It's not nearly as bulky, has a sort of roughly matching patina (ok, maybe a little too rusty). Just too wide. And it doesn't curve around the corners. But, just maybe, if I chop out a hefty center section? Here it is lined up for pondering on the right side:





Yeah, I can see this working. So take off the bumper brackets from the old bumper (had to angle grind 2 of the bolts, typical for ancient rusted shiz on this old heap). Measure lined up like I like it on both sides, mark the center. Then measure from the bolt holes - not bad - 1/16th of an inch off on the eyeballing. Correct, mark, and cut with an angle grinder. Then eat dinner, and it turned dark. And I'm lazy, so that's where I stopped. It's cut to length, I still need to weld it together, modify the bumper brackets (the part to the outside is way too long now, just chop off and use two bolts on the inside), and bolt it on. Err, and do something with the license plate. With the brackets on it sits a little lower and further back than I was holding it prior, should still look good. Good enough, anyhow.




Tomorrow, a weld, some chopping at the bumper brackets, and some drilling. Voila, a rusty old bumper on the back of a rusty old car.
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Old 09-21-2011, 10:06 PM   #2
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Looks really good John. Those stock bumpers do look goofy.
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:08 AM   #3
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Only question is - leave the rust on the bumper, or wire wheel it and spray some silver paint on it?

I'm leaning toward leaving the rust on. The car, in general, doesn't need any shiny looking parts on it. They'd look out of place.
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:36 AM   #4
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nice replacement!

I wouldn't leave the rust on there...
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:58 AM   #5
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I like it!

...and +1 to not leaving the rust on it. While I wouldn't spend the $$ to have it rechromed, I'd probably go for the strip it down and paint it silver look (maybe caliper paint silver?). You do have little shiny bits all over the car still; window trim, side trim, head/tail lamp trim, emblems, door handles, etc. The rusted bumper would look more out of place than a chrome or silver one IMO. Just my
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Old 09-22-2011, 10:01 AM   #6
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Looks like the diamond's getting cut and polished a bit. Looks good. I also vote to paint it.
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Old 09-22-2011, 10:17 AM   #7
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I stuck the MSD 6A box I took off the 245 (went to COP's on it) on it Tuesday. It feels... slightly peppier now.
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Old 09-22-2011, 10:42 AM   #8
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Be careful, you could black out and wake up in the middle of a full resto...
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Old 09-22-2011, 11:30 AM   #9
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Not likely. I got a fresh look at the underside bolting those bumper brackets back on.

Not a rational restoration candidate.

If anything, I'll eventually find a solid 444 body and put all the fun parts from my 544 onto it.

And then....


...get a rusty Bronco II, take the body off, and make me a Mini-Sugga with the old 544 body!


A couple of packs of angle grinder wheels, a new big spool of MIG wire, some rattle cans of olive drab paint, NO PROBLEM!
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:43 PM   #10
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^^^^

That would look awesome. Imagine going off road with it. Too cool.
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:48 PM   #11
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Looks good so far John! Been meaning to get those big pendulums off both ends of my PV for a while now...
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:55 PM   #12
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lookin' good. I do like the no bumper look better than the stock bumpers, but I think the smaller bumper is a step in the right direction.
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Old 09-25-2011, 06:03 AM   #13
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Old 09-25-2011, 12:02 PM   #14
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Sweet! I got an old 41 Ford pickup bed trailer. It's missing the rear bumper...



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Old 09-26-2011, 06:33 PM   #15
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OK, welded, ground the outside smooth, then wire-wheeled everything off that wanted to come off. Which was about 80 of the chrome (driveway looks glittery now). And painted it with some 'brushed nickel' rattle can paint that was hanging around in the garage not looking busy enough.





I just used the PV bumper brackets as they were, after cutting loose the outer halves. I might redo it slightly still, to move the bumper up and a little closer to the back of the car. And I need to stick the license plate on it, don't think the police will appreciate the plate hiding behind the bumper.

Friggin old steel bumper was chewing up my cheap HF drill bits drilling the new holes, good grief I hate cheap drill bits. Why do I keep buying them???
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Old 10-02-2011, 05:36 PM   #16
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Next up on the agenda - front seatbelts for the old rust bucket.

Many years ago, when I first got the car going, I stuck some retractable belts from a 240 sedan in the rear, since it didn't have any belts at all. And if it had them, it would have been lap belts anyhow.

It already had original factory front gray shoulder belts. Manually adjustable (but you really have to get out of the car to do that - the adjuster is bolted to the sill by the rear seat). The clasps were big clunky 'lobster claws' that latched onto a simple metal loop bolted to the tunnel between the seats. They worked well enough that I left them alone for a long time. Then a spring broke in the driver's lobster claw. Time for something new.

I looked around in the PnP for a while. Had to be a vertical mount reel, designed to bolt to a flat surface. 240's were out - their front belts are built into the front sills. Finally found what I needed on a convertible Saab. But the center latches were far too wide for the narrow spot between the seats on the PV, so I looked and found a center latch from a rear-facing Volvo wagon seat - right kind of latch - right kind of buckle. Actually - the Saab reels look exactly like the 240 reels I have in the rear already - probably the same manufacturer?

Time to install them. I did the passenger side first. I put a wrench on the belt that holds the bottom end of the belt to the sill. Turned it. Grunch, pop, crunch. Oh dear, that's not right. Did I mention it's a rust bucket? Well apparently it had *almost* rusted the passenger belt mount off. Good thing I'm doing this. That was srsly unsafe. Well, there are lots of aspects to the car that are unsafe (no crumple zones, single circuit brakes, already light (2200 lbs) structure weakened by plenty of rust...), but at least the belts should work.


A little closer:


Hey look, all sorts of pavement/sunlight where it shouldn't be!!! Narf.


A quick look at the rear sway bar reinforcements. I put IPD sways front and rear about 10 years ago. They bolt through the rear pans under the rear seat. One side ripped out in about a week. I patched it. The other side ripped out about a week after that. I patched that too. I used some fairly solid shallow channel iron pieces, cut them to length, then tacked them in with the MIG. then drilled a hole for the sway bar mount. Crappy welding, but they're still holding strong after 10 years of abuse:


On with the seatbelt project. The missing bolt didn't really change my plans. I already needed to bolt 2 things to the sill, not one (the reel, and the far end of the belt). Plan was vaguely similar to the sway bar patch (and similar to the front sway bar patches I'd had to do to both sides in the intervening 10 years - the bars are strong, the car isn't, anymore). Take a solid chunk of metal, bolt the seatbelts to it, then tack it along a wider area of PV body, hopefully encountering enough solid metal along the way.

Got a chunk of scrap steel about 12 X 3 X 3/16ths. Cut it in half. Set it in place, held the various parts up where they needed to be, and marked where the two bolts needed to be. Drilled. Then a little hammering to both the sill (it had a bump poking out) and the bar (needed a slight curve to match the sill).


I decided to stick bolts through the holes, and weld the heads to the bar on the backside.

Yes my MIG welding is crappy. But hopefully solid enough to work.

Tacked it into the sill. I sort of stitch it in, little welds every 1/2 or so. The metal further forward is solid. I also welded the end to the solid(ish) rear seat support/crossmember. If I was a perfectionist, this car would have hit the junkyard a long time ago. I just keep working to find solid metal and attaching it to the bar. After it's all welded in (pause to see if anything catches fire) it seems very solid.


With the seatbelt components bolted in:


The wagon jumper seat latches between the front seats:


Carpet and rear seat back in:


Drivers side done too - you can see the sort of flipped rear seat belts there. I put the latches outboard, and the reels in the center. Seemed to work better with the existing mounts, and really, if you get hit on the side, the belts will hold your upper body better crossing over the inner shoulder.


That's it for now. I have a limited slip diff that's been waiting to go in the PV for years, but I keep putting it off...
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Old 08-21-2012, 08:19 AM   #17
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Haven't taken too many pics of the current little project - a cam swap. Seems like lifters and cam lobes have a short, hard life in this motor. Double valve springs, aggressive cam (Isky VV181), lots of revs. This time the #1 lifter (exhaust on cyl 1) was going flat. Just sounded a tiny bit off at full throttle, and was popping on deccel a lot more than normal. Took off the valve cover, unplug the coil, and crank it round and round, and yes, there's definitely a flat lobe.

Swapping cams on a pushrod motor involves pulling the head, so you can fish the old lifters out of the little slots. Here you can see the dished B21FT pistons I used in this build to suit the very shaved down (small combustion chambers) R-Sport head. And the old crusty rusty cracked/patched/cracked/patched/cracked again header.


A few days later. New cam is in, new lifters (Isky VV181 again, and a half set of Isky SBC solid lifters, no, you can't see any of that from here). I'm trying to use a copper HG as the 2.1L sized regular HG's are hard to find. I'm half thinking I'll be pulling the head in a week or two and ordering a Cometic? But for now, fingers crossed.


I'm also test fitting the new $64 header I got on Amazon. Ridiculously cheap, and seems to be about as good as the last cheap crappy header was. I was talking to John Parker (V-Perf) about one of his 4:2:1 headers, and a Targa cam, but he sort of dropped out of communication after a while, and I sort of remembered his track record of shipping parts.

The new header has longer tubes, placing the collector further back, next order of business is to chop the exhaust pipe, chop the 3-bolt collector off the header, and weld on some V-band clamps. I've not had good luck with those damn 3-bolt flanges in the past. I've had great luck with V-band clamps.
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Old 08-21-2012, 08:25 AM   #18
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and this is coming to SE? oughta be neat
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Old 08-21-2012, 09:38 AM   #19
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Yes. That's the plan. It will be a little more 'interesting' driving that old thing that far.
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Old 08-23-2012, 12:34 AM   #20
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Lookin great John!
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Old 08-23-2012, 12:39 AM   #21
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Probably my favorite car at the Midsommar meet, and I enjoyed very much driving it a few laps around the parking lot. Makes me want one bad! John, you leaving the parking lot sideways with tires smoking was a nice show too.
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Old 08-23-2012, 01:29 AM   #22
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Nice little bit of progress John!

I've actually been running a Cometic on the B20 for a couple years, had good luck with it, even with winding it to 6500. Motor's only 9.1:1 though, not the insane:1 yours is with that head.

I do hear ya on those damn 3-bolt gaskets though. Aside from the alum ones in there now, nothing held up. Given mine will see boost, I'm not going to worry about pulling the Clifford header off, fixing the leak in the collector, and putting a v-band on it, just not worth the time and hassle.
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Old 08-23-2012, 09:19 AM   #23
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I never got around to replacing the 3 bolt collector on the old header until the flange on the header it bolts onto actually cracked off. At which point it was either weld on a V-band or pitch the header. If' I'd seen the $64 header then I'd have replaced it, but I was still thinking the cheap crappy ones were $200 (which is what everyone else sells the Patriot brand header for).

I just wanted to skip the hassle this time around, and use V-bands from the start.

I've been using Cometic's in the 245 with great success, not a single issue with leaks, drips, combustion leaks, blown gaskets, nothing. I just had this big bore copper HG sitting around the garage from the last time I worked on the engine, and thought I should at least give it a try. I gave it a nice spray of Permatex copper spray-a-gasket (hard to get an even coat when you spray copper paint onto a copper gasket, it all looks the same...) and torqued the head bolts a little over spec.

I'm a bit embarrassed to say why I didn't use the copper HG last time. But (ahem) - the directions said to give it a thin coat of Permatex Copper gasket sealer, and without thinking much, I grabbed a tube of this stuff I had laying around the garage:

and smeared a thin layer over the whole headgasket. Didn't think that through very well. Sure, it's 'Permatex Copper' - but not the very thin spray on paint stuff, the thick silicone based stuff. Anyhow, even with the hedbolts torqued to spec, the layer of silicone was enough to gap the block and head slightly apart, and instead of a nice steel block/copper HG/steel head metal to metal to metal combustion chamber seal, it had a layer of silicone in the mix. Basically, on the first drive I made it about halfway down the block before a massive cloud of steam came out the tailpipe.

Deeeeerp. I just found a conventional big-bore Elring and hastily fixed it last time. Just thought I'd give it another try this time and see if it works any better with all the silicone scrubbed off and a coating of the proper sealer. It's possible that it might weep coolant, or ooze oil, or be annoying in some manner, so I'm ready to order off the Cometic 92mm gasket on a moment's notice.
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Old 08-23-2012, 06:59 PM   #24
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Did a little more work today. Not much. Mostly just getting the roller rockers situated on the head again I took a few pics of them before they get hidden under the valve cover again. It's a set of KgTrimning roller rockers, with an aluminum bridge in place of the 4 little pedestals the stock rockers sit on.

First, a shot of the olde stock rockers, don't mind the dust.


Does the shaft flex under the loads of high lift cams, double valve springs, high rpms? Dunno. But the KGTrimning bridge supposedly supports the shaft on all sides of the rockers, and prevents flex and vibration.



I took a few measurements. The rocker shaft seems to be the same diameter (.855") between the stock and KGTrimning shaft. I think the KGTrimning catalog says the shaft was modified somehow, my Svenska reading isn't really good enough to decipher it.




I measured the height that the shaft sits above the top of the head. The stock pedestals are 1.04" tall. The bridge is .92" tall. In theory, this is good for higher lift cams, lowering the shaft puts a more equal amount of angulation on either side of level for the rocker. Otherwise, all the added lift on a high lift cam would come via the rocker going farther past horizontal (assuming same base circle). Which wouldn't be good.

Some pics of the rockers. They're in pairs, with subtly offset rollers for the valves, and adjusters for the pushrods. Are these custom ordered like that? Or was it very craftily ordered as a sort of stock-ish part from something mainstream and domestic? Dunno. There are a variety of shaft mounted rockers from domestic cars. Even some shaft mount conversions for engines that normally have stud mounted rockers. There's no clue on the rockers where they came from, no part numbers, no company names.



The bridge sits directly against the head, and reaches out to the valve cover mounting surface. Which means it needs to seal without a gasket. So smear on some Indian Head Shellac (I seem to have better luck with that than silicone), setting it in place, and positioning it with bolts. I also glued my rubber valve cover gasket to the bridge, I'll leave the top of that dry against the valve cover itself. I nestled the valve cover on to hold it all in place as the shellac dries.


I might use the 'VOLVO' valve cover this time. I've had the no logo post Volvo warning IPD cover for a while, because it seats the valve cover gasket a little better. But my older Volvo logoed cover is cooooooler.
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Old 08-28-2012, 09:46 PM   #25
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Took it for the first drive back together today. And... the damn copper gasket is not holding compression. The temp gauge was jumpy on the drive, went back home and took the cap off and a steady flow of vapor rolled out of it as it idled. No white fog out the tailpipe, but it's obvious a fair amount of compression byproducts are making their way into the water jacket.

Ordered a 92MM bore .036 Cometic for it. Head comes off again this weekend. Just like the last time I tried to use the copper HG. Only that time I'd obviously done something wrong. Ah well, I'm just glad Cometic sells big bore B20 HG's and I don't have to try to track down one of the very hard to find 92MM Elrings.
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