oil cooler/ adapter sizes? and a PS question

cant run the oem oil cooler lines due to my 16vt diesel mounts. does anyone know what AN sizes fit on the oil cooler threads and what AN size will fit on the oil filter adapter? i know its not 10an because my oil return on the turbo is 10an and its a little loose on the oil cooler threads. i believe its 2 6an fittings for the oil filter adapter and 2 8 ans for the oil cooler threads.

anyone know for sure?

also does anyone know what i can do about running my PS? its the PS setup from when the 8v was in witht the hydro mounts. now i have the 16v in with the solid diesel mounts and i cant get the pump to bolt to the block (passenger side)
has anyone ran intho this problem and what did you do?

thanks!!!

They are a strange flare crimped/shrunk on the metal lines. It's not AN I'm almost certain (I've seen it on foreign heavy equipment), its more like a brake line flare, but it isn't...sort of a hybrid of an AN and flare fitting. I don't know the proper name for those, sorry. The oil cooler itself has strange threads. The sandwich plate just has metric threads (M14 or M16) with a crush washer to seal to the strange flare fittings on a 7/9 series and a banjo bolt with crush washers on a 240T.

You can use the earlier hard lines where the oil cooler sandwich plate is mounted direct to the block. '86 and earlier 700T have solid motor mounts too and the sandwich plate is mounted directly to the engine block (like a 240T) and have appropriate hard lines and bracket to match. You can keep your existing soft lines. You use the PS bracket from those cars as well.

Nothing quite like a...factory solution.

Notwithstanding that, you can use some banjos like this:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=291819

And use 2 high quality hose clamps per barb and some reinforced, heat range appropriate, oil resistant, steel (or kevlar) reinforced oil hose...something like this:
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=3064&location_id=3825

If you cut the crimps off of your oil cooler or any of the soft line fittings, you are left with a barb that looks just like the banjo barbs pictured. Sometime ~90 they went to the kevlar reinforced hose instead of the double steel braid reinforced hose.

If you don't want to use double hose clamps (I have and it works...oil pressure is ~80-100psi absolute max, but its not quite as...perfect or pressure apporpriate as a crimp), once you get it fitted and routed where you want, how you want, you can get it up and running on hose clamps and go down to whatever hose/hydraulic/industrial shop you like, mark the hose to index it, and make sure it stays routed just-so and get them to smack a crimp on it just like the factory did. Work and look like factory, but be routed where/how you want. If you do all the leg work, a decent hydraulic shop would probably smack a crimp on the existing barbs with appropriate hose for very reasonable money.

mine is bolted to the block (different then yours pictured in the thread), comes off the block to the filter and 2 threaded parts underneath it as the oil cooler has 2 threaded parts on it to, i figured a AN fitting would screw onto it.

^originally, your car came with the relocation arm thingy that sticks the oil filter over by the downpipe, yes? 87+ turbo cars have the hydraulic mounts and the relocation arm thing.

86 and earlier 700T have solid motor mounts and brackets and have the plate on the block between block and oil filter directly. No relocation arm with its gigantic banjo bolt.

Kjets On a Plane said:

The oil cooler itself has strange threads. The sandwich plate just has metric threads (M14 or M16) with a crush washer to seal to the strange flare fittings on a 7/9 series

Click to expand...

I think these are "Ermeto-fittings", L for low pressure, and with pipe OD in millimeters.

For example:
L10
L12
L15
L18

Kjets On a Plane said:

^originally, your car came with the relocation arm thingy that sticks the oil filter over by the downpipe, yes? 87+ turbo cars have the hydraulic mounts and the relocation arm thing.

86 and earlier 700T have solid motor mounts and brackets and have the plate on the block between block and oil filter directly. No relocation arm with its gigantic banjo bolt.

Click to expand...

yes sir the arm piece, the one you have wont work with my car due to the header, i have to find something that'll work with what i have unfortunately

OttoB said:

I think these are "Ermeto-fittings", L for low pressure, and with pipe OD in millimeters.

For example:
L10
L12
L15
L18

Click to expand...

im not worried about the pipe, i was gona get new "soft" line braided reinforced to run new lines. you know if whatever your talking about will convert over into AN fittings because i can order them off ebay then use some nice hose clamps to keep them on

You'll need these -8 AN to 16mm x 1.5 Male adapters and crush washers for the oil thermostat and these 1/2 BSP Female to -8 AN Male adapters for the oil cooler.

If your using the replacement oil cooler, you'll need a different fitting.

Setrab makes a nice mounting bracket for the oil coolers if you want to relocate.

^that's pretty.
I thought it was BSP. I've seen a ton of that stuff on the Volvo heavy equip. Mostly just repairing worn out hydraulic parts more than re-inventing hose routing or adding coolers, however.

Yeah, I wasn't sure if it would work or not.

I'd just use hose clamps with appropriate reinforced hose to get it up and running and make sure it fits well and doesn't rub or anything, mark it and take it down to the hose shop and get them to whack some crimps on it for $10ish.

Buying all that stuff new would be like $600+. Used and a little hose and some clamps to get it up and going and then a couple crimps, maybe under a bill or so? You'd spend that in new shiny AN fittings alone!

I get the appeal though, it is a lovely little deal and picture with that nice updated green viton o-ring there in the center.

Saab hoses screw to the oil cooler nipples, just get hose to length put on those ends.

^thats exactly what I was suggesting...just use he Volvo/Saab/Volvo heavy equip ends and fittings.

It's not shiny and anodized and cost $80 in shiny fittings and a isn't mix match of hoses tho, just boring black industrial hose bracketed properly that work but It isn't all that "bling."

Funny thing is when I'd install the Volvo oil coolers (960 or 740) in vws I'd raid the SCAABs for fittings and hoses. Benzs too. Get it mocked up with two Benz hose clamps per barb, once it's in and working fine, have the hydraulic shop smack crimps on it.

^

fwiw

Some of that pretty decorative anodized junk will screw in too far, and split the sandwich plate's housing before it's tight enough to seal.

I'd stick to the 14 x 1.5m banjo program, and convert directly to AN if that's what fittings you want to convert to.


Banjo Bolt kit M14x1.5 mm to -6AN

$14 a pop isn't outrageous.

running the 8an fittings on the oil filter relocator (stock one) and 8an line going to the cooler (with 8an fittings) wont be too big of a line for that right?


and as for the 5/8 BSP Female to -8 AN Male adapters, i cant find any on ebay and 19 bucks a peice is a little expensive plus shipping. do the original oil filter screw pieces come out like to replace the whole fitting and if you know what size thatd be?

i appreciate your help!

Dash 8 AN is ?" id which is perfect for oil coolers and remote oil filters.

The 5/8 BSP Female to -8 AN Male adapters are used to convert the odd fittings on the cooler to AN. The fittings are permanently attached to the original cooler. They're a little pricey, but the alternative is a different cooler which will cost even more.

I can get coolers for under 50 bucks shipped. Might just snag a new one

got my oil cooler situtaion figured out, anyone have a idea for power steering?

sleepySOHC said:

yes sir the arm piece, the one you have wont work with my car due to the header, i have to find something that'll work with what i have unfortunately

Click to expand...

You already have most everything to make it work. An oil filter extension uses the same block mount filter holder, just take the filter holder off the extension housing (and also has one of those nice green o-rings in there too) and use the metal 740 lines to run flat against the block down and under the filter. Use the OE kevlar lines from a 740 to connect to the metal lines, just need a new ferrule and re-use the old fittings after cutting/bending/customizing the lengths to protrude forward below the alternator. Dealer parts for the ferrules, straight (not banjo or 90 deg elbow) cooler block fittings and crush washers. I found a source for the metal line ferrules at a hydraulic shop, it is a common 12mm metric ferrule. Using hoses w/clamps isn't a great idea. You may need to get the longer stud for the block if you don't already have one.
This is what I have on my 91 245 n/a, all parts from a 91 740T, leak free now has ~160k miles on it since I put it in 10 yrs ago. To tel,l how durable this set-up is, I break the two metal lines every time I do a 5k mile oil change, drain the cooler, re-connect and have yet to change out the ferrules I put there 10 yrs ago. Somewhere on TB I have a thread w/pic's.

i appreciate the reply, i couldve done that but i went ahead and picked up a new cooler, 10an lines to and from the cooler to the oem block mount filter adapter thing with fragola thread adapters

vvpete said:

You already have most everything to make it work. An oil filter extension uses the same block mount filter holder, just take the filter holder off the extension housing (and also has one of those nice green o-rings in there too) and use the metal 740 lines to run flat against the block down and under the filter. Use the OE kevlar lines from a 740 to connect to the metal lines, just need a new ferrule and re-use the old fittings after cutting/bending/customizing the lengths to protrude forward below the alternator. Dealer parts for the ferrules, straight (not banjo or 90 deg elbow) cooler block fittings and crush washers. I found a source for the metal line ferrules at a hydraulic shop, it is a common 12mm metric ferrule. Using hoses w/clamps isn't a great idea. You may need to get the longer stud for the block if you don't already have one.
This is what I have on my 91 245 n/a, all parts from a 91 740T, leak free now has ~160k miles on it since I put it in 10 yrs ago. To tel,l how durable this set-up is, I break the two metal lines every time I do a 5k mile oil change, drain the cooler, re-connect and have yet to change out the ferrules I put there 10 yrs ago. Somewhere on TB I have a thread w/pic's.

Click to expand...

hiperfauto said:

Dash 8 AN is ?" id which is perfect for oil coolers and remote oil filters.

Thread revival

The 5/8 BSP Female to -8 AN Male adapters are used to convert the odd fittings on the cooler to AN. The fittings are permanently attached to the original cooler. They're a little pricey, but the alternative is a different cooler which will cost even more.

Click to expand...

In your excellent 3/02/2014 post you have stated 1/2 BSP to -8 ; Can you verify whether its 5/8" or 1/2" BSP? I may need to go this route to relocate the cooler.

Many thanks

The fittings are ?" BSP.

I had originally posted they were 5/8" but someone who relied on my bad info let me know I was wrong and I corrected the post on 11/28/2016.