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240 Directional Indicators not working

Crazychopstick

Crazychopstick

(/// _ - )
Joined
Dec 22, 2004
Location
Receiving Transmission from David Bowie nipple ant
The directional indicators (blinkers) are not working on my '88 244.

Headlights, tail lights, parking lights, brights, and hazards all work and all bulbs are good.

Headlight relay is good, flasher is good.

Connection from the bulb socket-to-the relay is good, connection from the relay-to-the turn stalk is good, connection from the turn stalk-to-the flasher is good. All grounds and fuses are good.

So where's the break? Also the instrument cluster light doesn't work, but all gauges do. Any relation?
 
Also check the fuse box for the sneaky corroded fuse on the turnsignals. The turnsignal stalk switch can fail and still feel like it's working.

The instrument lights go through the rheostat above the headlight switch. Be sure to check that voltage is going in and coming out of the rheostat. They corrode and fail just from age.
 
→With the ignition on, check the socket for the flasher, one terminal (most likely a white wire) should show 12V+ when the hazards are off but the ignition is on (from fuse #5), or (same relay socket terminal) when the ignition is off but the hazards are on (from fuse #9). Might want to test this with a test lamp (incandescent, not LED type) in case there is enough current to tell a digital meter you have 12V but not enough to run a lamp.

→If both modes↑↑↑ show power in the socket, and the hazards also dont work: odds are the flasher is bad, but if the flasher is proven good, the hazard switch is likely bad.

→Otherwise if the hazards do work: next at the turn signal stalk: Remove the yellow wire and touch it to the blue or the blue-green wire terminals, this should turn on one side or the other, and if so the stalk is bad; if not the flasher or fuse are likely bad.
→To test the lamps: take a wire and jumper a hot fuse like #6 and touch this to the blue or blue-green terminal at the turn signal stalk: this should turn on the related turn signal lights.
 
Odds are fuse #5 is not supplying power (or enough current) to the flasher. Or the hazard switch is defective when in the off position.

Try a jumper wire from a hot fuse (like #6) to the white wire at the hazard switch socket (unplug the switch if needed). Then try the turn signals. If it works, the fuse or hazard switch is bad. If still nothing, try a jumper from a hot fuse to the green or green blue wires at the turn signal stalk, make sure the lamps are functional.
 
Three Fat Tigers said:
Odds are fuse #5 is not supplying power (or enough current) to the flasher. Or the hazard switch is defective when in the off position.

Try a jumper wire from a hot fuse (like #6) to the white wire at the hazard switch socket (unplug the switch if needed). Then try the turn signals. If it works, the fuse or hazard switch is bad. If still nothing, try a jumper from a hot fuse to the green or green blue wires at the turn signal stalk, make sure the lamps are functional.
Click to expand...

There was a bit of corrosion on fuse 5 holder but nothing serious. The hazard is good for sure all tests checked out and I even swapped in a known good one off my dd.

Jumping a hotwire to the blue and green wires at the stalk causes them to turn and stay on so the lamps are working.
 
When the turn signal is on either direction it connects a path to that bulb. The bulb is a current load and it is then connected to the flasher output. The flasher supplies the battery voltage to the turn signal but turns on and off when under the load from the lights of either direction. With no load on the flasher the output will read battery voltage but when connected to the right or left turn lights it turns on and off. Except for the indicators the main wiring for the turn signals does not go through the cluster I do not believe.
 
Still sounds like #5 fuse power (sufficient current) is not reaching the flasher relay.

Try a jumper wire from a hot fuse (like #6) to the white wire at the hazard switch socket (unplug the switch if needed), or to the white wire at the flasher relay socket (leave flasher plugged in). Then try the turn signals. This bypasses the fuse, harness and hazard switch.
 
Sounds like the hazard switch. 3-4v at the yellow wire on the stalk indicates a poor electrical connection.
 
ccbob said:
Sounds like the hazard switch. 3-4v at the yellow wire on the stalk indicates a poor electrical connection.
Click to expand...

Did you not read?

I already stated the hazard switch is not the problem.

moxy123 said:
Are there two flashers, one signals and one hazard or just one on the 240?
Click to expand...

The 240 has one flasher and both the signals and the hazard run off of it. It is also not the problem.

kyote said:
GDS had the same problem. My money's on a fuse issue.
Click to expand...

I don't understand what the fuse actually does or how I would go about correcting it.
 
My Chilton manual shows the directional switch and hazard in one block diagram. The power is supplied by fuse 9 (hot all the time, wht/grn) and fuse 13 (hot when the key is on, blu/red).

If this is true then I would think that the fuse 9 which is hot all the time is for the hazard and fuse 13 which is switched is for the signals.

The manual may be wrong of course but it is listing a '88, 240.
 
moxy123 said:
My Chilton manual shows the directional switch and hazard in one block diagram. The power is supplied by fuse 9 (hot all the time, wht/grn) and fuse 13 (hot when the key is on, blu/red).

If this is true then I would think that the fuse 9 which is hot all the time is for the hazard and fuse 13 which is switched is for the signals.

The manual may be wrong of course but it is listing a '88, 240.
Click to expand...

My wiring diagram stated the same thing, 9 and 13. And those were the first things i checked.

No broken fuses.

I went ahead and just replaced number 13 a minute ago and now the signals work. :roll:

Thanks all.
 
Chris-

If the fuse is corroded or not passing full voltage, the relay wont see enough voltage to function as it should. It will then click only once, or not at all. Ask me how I know this...

I spent weeks tryint to figure this out on my first 245T, took it to the mechanic for something else and he asked why my dash was apart. I told him about the directionals, and he said he would take a look. He hit me up for all new fuses and a fuse box cleaning, but they worked!
 
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