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my diff done went boom

Wren said:
That being said, the late 240 axles shafts are shorter which allows one to use a G80 without modifications. It has nothing to do with 940 axles or their length. John did not put a 940 axle shaft into his 240 axle because that does not work.
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That is what I did. I replaced the open diff carrier in my 240 axle with a G80 carrier from a 940, and did not need to shorten my 240 axle shafts. You need to slice 1/4 inch or so off one (both?) axle shafts on earlier 240's.

The 940 axle shafts are considerably wider, do not work, same with the whole axle housing, wider, wrong suspension mounts, etc.


On mine, I took the calipers off, unbolted the axle bearings, slid the axle shafts out a few inches. Then unbolted the Panhard rod for clearance, took the cover off, took the diff carrier out, put the G80 in. It felt pretty good (lol shade tree shens) so I just stuck the cover back on, slid the axles back in, bolted the calipers on, and it's been good for 5 or 6 years so far. But generally speaking, I wouldn't recommend that anyone else shade tree a diff like that. Gear clearances have to be right or the diff will blow up. I just got lucky.
 
Cwazywazy said:
Lol I stripped the drain plug. I just slapped a couple HDD magnets to the cover. Doesn't seem to have made much difference though.
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No, seriously, I'd expect a soup of metal shavings and gear teeth in there with how you're describing the noises and problems. Drain it and look at it.
 
Khrrck said:
No, seriously, I'd expect a soup of metal shavings and gear teeth in there with how you're describing the noises and problems. Drain it and look at it.
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Why bother? It's ****ed anyway, and jacking up lowered cars takes forever.
 
My Dana 35 in my Jeep Wrangler YJ was making some noises so last weekend I pulled the cover off and drained the fluid. Metal shavings and 2 busted spider gear teeth. New Spicer spider gears and side gears are on their way to my house off of ebay for a total of $74. In my case, the bearings, ring, pinion, and oil seals are still functional.

If the goal is to fix it on the cheap, a junkyard axle assembly is probably the cheapest thing for him to do.
 
DanMarino said:
If the goal is to fix it on the cheap, a junkyard axle assembly is probably the cheapest thing for him to do.
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I think the cheapest thing would be drive it as-is until it no-go anymore.
Then crush. It's a $200 rustbucket.

Why throw good money after bad?
 
Cwazywazy said:
Put in the thickest gear oil I could find and it's leaking really fast from the driveshaft seal thing at the front. I know it had a very slow leak from the cover, but this is new.
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Pinon seal. Learn how to do one on this beater so if you ever get something nice you will have practice.
 
I did the front diff on a Buick rendezvous this year that bled out and failed; the complaint was that the tires locked up while driving. Don't be a fool.
 
Even around town, if your diff locks up and you get rear ended it could be life changing. I got smacked from behind at a light due to my old bosses **** driving. We barely got hit and years later I still have neck pain.

Good luck.
 
Actually had that happen. Scary.


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alschnertz said:
I think the cheapest thing would be drive it as-is until it no-go anymore.
Then crush. It's a $200 rustbucket.

Why throw good money after bad?
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Correction.

If the goal is to FIX IT on the cheap, the best thing is probably a junkyard axle.

If the goal is to be cheap and NOT FIX IT, then do nothing I guess.
 
Yeah, you guys have me worried about it locking up now. So here's my options, I guess:

1. Do a burnout and see if it explodes, then part it out.
2. Drive it as is until I kill myself or someone else, then part it out.
3. Do the pinion seal and empty any pieces of metal, then fill and see how long it lasts, then part it out.
4. New rear end.

I did drive it a couple miles earlier. Mostly just loud whining and engine braking makes it grind. Putting fluid in it and magnets on the cover made no noticeable difference. And it's all just leaking out anyway.
 
I had a pinion bearing sieze up at 100mph. I got lucky. The inertia of the engine and wheels, and grip of the tyres pulled it through and loosened it up. Could easily have locked up. Felt like someone pulling the handbrake lever but not quite enough to lock up the tyres.

Lift off grinding is because the front bearing is gone and the gear can travel backwards into the carrier. Fix or crush. Don't drive it in traffic.
 
Might as well post this, I tried to drive it one more time before ripping the intake off.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/4HX5wumKtUE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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