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Old 01-11-2013, 12:21 PM   #1
242Bleek
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Default HELP! D-jetronic troubles

I have a 74 164 that doesn't run, i've ran several tests and found out that the injectors aren't firing at all when I crank it. If you pour some gas in the TB the car will kind of sputter on its own for about 30 seconds and thats it, the fuel pressure is fine, brand new fuel pump and good spark. I have another ECU to try on another car but it doesnt look like the wires will even unplug from the box and to make it worse every wire is white, WTF! Id like to fix this car because its for a good friend and he just wants it running but im starting to think it would be better just to convert it over to carbs. I just don't know enough about this system so if someone with some experience could chime in with some words of advice id appreciate it. Thanks
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Old 01-11-2013, 12:34 PM   #2
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Can you hear the fuelpump prime? (buzzing for 2 seconds when turning the key in nr 1 position).
I would clean all the engine bay fuses, and check the relay's on the right fender do they click?

The ECU gets its speed signal from a pair of contacts at the bottom of the distributor, remove the contacts and clean them.
The wire's are white for a reason, then you can read the number they printed on

Remove the ecu, than disconnect the cable, its fixed with 2 screws
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Old 01-11-2013, 12:37 PM   #3
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Could be several things.

1) Fuel injection system 'live'
2) Fuel pressure (fuel pump)
3) Points in base of distributor

First basic check - do you hear the fuel pump running for a few seconds when you turn the key on? If so, that means a lot of stuff is 'right' - the ECU is powering up, and the fuel pump relay and fuel pump works.

I spent an embarrassingly long time trying to figure out why the fuel pump wasn't working on my 1800E once, the culprit was the wire on the positive battery cable had fallen off. Everything else on the car worked, jsut the injection system wasn't powering up, thus no fuel pump priming.

If no fuel pump priming happens, figure that out. There's a power supply, a main injection system relay, the ECU, and a fuel pump relay, and the fuel pump itself.

If it is priming, then leave the key on, go up by the engine, and (it needs to be somewhat quiet) open the throttle by hand. Do you hear the injectors clicking? Opening the throttle should fire off a handful of injector firing events. Maybe even loosen all those shttemetal injector retainers and wiggle the injectors a little to loosen them, then pull the whole fuel rail and injector assembly off, wires and hoses attached. Open the throttle and see if they spritz (this is good at spotting 'stuck shut' injectors - which can often be freed by carefully depressing the pintle - they'll often resume productive service again).

If that works, unplug the coil (low tension wire, no need for sparks to be jumping around with fuel being spritzed) and give the motor a crank or two (turn the key on and off a few times to make the the pump has primed the fuel pressure well). If the injectors fire when the throttle opens, but not when cranked, it's likely an issue with the trigger contacts in the abse of the distributor, this is how D-Jet times the injection cycles.
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Old 01-11-2013, 12:54 PM   #4
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http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/v...%20Tracing.pdf
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Old 01-11-2013, 01:11 PM   #5
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Is that the one with the Vikings?


*pause*

It is!
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:43 PM   #6
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Awesome, I feel like I have some kind of knowledge about this thing now. The fuel pump does prime with the key, I will go and mess with it tomorrow to see if I can get the injectors to fire as well.
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:54 PM   #7
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For it to not be firing injectors at all........ Look for if the injector points are unplugged or the wiring is broken.

Happens!

If you end up replacing injector points.... be sure to apply lube to the new parts. No drysex!!
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Old 01-11-2013, 11:03 PM   #8
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It also needs a signal from the coolant temperature sensor in the front passenger side of the cylinder head to run.
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Old 01-11-2013, 11:10 PM   #9
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To find out if there is an electrical pulse to the injectors:

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Old 01-11-2013, 11:24 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Is that the one with the Vikings?


*pause*

It is!
Yeah, I have some old shiit on my web site including vikings. Hopefully it will help some and make others laugh.
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:22 PM   #11
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Well, im still messing with this car, the original set of distributor trigger points allowed the car to run but it runs terrible because I think it only allows one batch of injectors to fire. I grabbed another set from a 72 and it was hard to start but it started and ran better till it ended up the same way. I did what you said and pulled them out to check their operation by hand but it seems when I actually put them in the distributor they fail to open completely and it's causing the engine to run very rough and inconsistent. Do you know if these thing just get worn out over time causing them to not fully open? Thanks
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:51 PM   #12
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They can corrode and give inconsistent signal to the ECU. Try to clean up the contacts with super fine sandpaper. The plastic blocks that rub on the cam on the distributor shaft can wear out but that can't be fixed.
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Old 02-12-2013, 01:58 PM   #13
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They can be adjusted too somehow. I took my 1800 to a mechanic well versed in D-jet because it was only running on 2 cylinders and I had tried all kinds of various D-jet tests, and had pretty much given up. He said all he did was adjust the trigger points (I had already cleaned them etc). I said, "I didn't know you could do that." And he said, "most people don't." Has run fine ever since.
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Old 02-12-2013, 02:10 PM   #14
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http://www.partbob.com/reparatursatz...026t03035.html
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and gets these repair kits a bit less dear - even with the "gift shipping")...
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Old 02-12-2013, 02:34 PM   #15
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The little blocks on the points themselves may have worn down, and they're not opening enough. Seems like you could adjust the contacts to make up for that though.

it's also (less likely) that the little eccentric on the dist shaft that opens and closes the points is worn down.

But when in place, turning the distributor needs to cleanly open and close those points. Each time it triggers an injector batch fire (1&4 are on one paired circuit, 2&3 are on the other).
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Old 02-12-2013, 02:45 PM   #16
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^^ THIS ^^

you ALSO have to consider the BEARINGS in the DISTRIBUTOR...if the shaft
WOBBLES you get stupid signals...not often but I've been caught out by it a couple
of times (due to long interim of "non-occurrence")
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Old 02-12-2013, 02:58 PM   #17
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Yeah, that could cause a slightly rich condition.
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Old 02-12-2013, 03:33 PM   #18
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Most of the D-jet junk I saw 20 years ago already had the trigger cams rubbed nearly away, same as points ignition dizzies.. Seems the concept of lube on the rubbing parts was universally overlooked for decades.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:30 PM   #19
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Default b30 injection

If you don't trust either set of your trigger contacts, do you want to borrow a known good set to know for sure if that is the problem? 4 and 6 cyl. ones are the same, correct?
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:25 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulcurran View Post
If you don't trust either set of your trigger contacts, do you want to borrow a known good set to know for sure if that is the problem? 4 and 6 cyl. ones are the same, correct?
Same principal dual batch fire.

The 164 distributor is a much larger diameter so I'm not sure it will fit correctly.

John is correct a little silicone grease goes a long way, and don't forget to oil the advance springs, weights, and lower bronze bushing on the tower.
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:59 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulcurran View Post
If you don't trust either set of your trigger contacts, do you want to borrow a known good set to know for sure if that is the problem? 4 and 6 cyl. ones are the same, correct?
Thanks for the offer, if they are the same I might have to take you up on it. I just don't know what else to do...I mean, where do you even get a part like this for such an antiquated system? I must have stared at these things for hours looking for a way to adjust them and im just not seeing it.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:04 AM   #22
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You could always go the expensive route, and replace the the dizzy with one of these:
http://www.123ignitionusa.com/volvo-distributors-2.html

I've never used one, but a good number of people on the 1800 list seem to like them.
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Old 02-13-2013, 01:44 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by 242Bleek View Post
Thanks for the offer, if they are the same I might have to take you up on it. I just don't know what else to do...I mean, where do you even get a part like this for such an antiquated system? I must have stared at these things for hours looking for a way to adjust them and im just not seeing it.
I had a couple of D-jet parts 164 distributors and an 017 ECU but sent them to wagonfetish when he got shot down on the grapevine last year.

They do show up in the JY's but a ~$50 distributor at PnP is worth ~ $20 on here so there's really no reason to invest in them.

Core charge has historically been $80-$100...

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