Conversion Questions: LH 2.1 to 2.2 for a Chrysler to EZK

Currently I have an 1983 244 AW71 and would like to convert the Chrysler ignition to EZK. I have read that my 83 will require a upgrade from LH 2.1 to LH 2.2. So I would like to ask so questions about the conversions.

For this conversion to LH 2.2 I have read some different things.
1. Is the harness the same between the LH 2.1 and LH 2.2?
I read here that I only need to swap the ECU to a 2.2 and the AMM to a 007, repining the connector for the 007. In this article he talks about also pulling the fuel pump relays and injectors.
Is a 2.1 to 2.2 as simple as unplugging the 2.1 ECU and plugging in the 2.2 ECU and repinning the AMM connector and swapping the AMM?

2. I read here the 2.2 ECU for non turbo is 544, as apposed to here using a 541 for a turbo. I plan to stay NA, so I want a 544, correct? What donor cars have 544 boxes?


Once the LH 2.2 is installed then I can go about installing the EZK.
for the EZK swap I will need the
EZ117K box
power module
EZK harness
004 distributor
knock sensor
IAC 501

I think these posts 1 2 and 3 do a great job of explaining, I just mainly need more info on the LH 2.1 to 2.2 conversion.

Thanks
Mario

Mario.

What is your desired outcome in going to 2.2? I understand that the Chrysler ignition sucks, but if you're intending to go turbo or something, 2.4 may be better? Or megasquirt?

What's the goal here?

My goal is to ditch Chrysler ignition system, thats it. I have no desire to add a turbo to this car. The car has had idling problems for about 2 years and it broke down on me last week. I have not had time to look into it past determining I have no spark, but I suspect the hall sensor went out, because the distributor rotor only has ~10,000 miles on it. It could also be a broken wire, because I was poking around the alt when I replaced the belts and it died two days later. The Ignition harness for the knock sensor and distributor travel through that area correct? This incident has made me potentially want to move away from the Chrysler ignition system, pending the swap is not too hard to do.

Ah fair. Well then my friend... I'm not certain I can offer much help simply with how unfamiliar I am with 2.1.

I did have Chrysler on my 2.2 and it was of course meh. I endorse you trying to get rid of it.

This is what you're looking for I suspect in terms of what you need. 541 and 591 are turbo ECUs. You can definitely run a turbo ECU in a non-turbo car without much issue... it'll be rich though (iirc)
http://www.nuceng.ca/bill/volvo/database/ecu.htm

I also plausibly have a ton of these parts for you if you're interested as my old winter car (now parts) is 2.2 with chrysler. I had all the parts (again, IIRC) to convert it to EZK but ultimately ended up with a nicer 2.4 car. Those parts are for turbo though.

EivlEvo said:

I also plausibly have a ton of these parts for you if you're interested as my old winter car (now parts) is 2.2 with chrysler. I had all the parts (again, IIRC) to convert it to EZK but ultimately ended up with a nicer 2.4 car. Those parts are for turbo though.

Click to expand...

Thanks for offering EivlEvo, I might take you up on the offer. I was thinking of trying to pull parts from the yard but if you have all the stuff I might grab it all from you, let me know if you can find it all.

We'll lh 2.2 ezk still uses the Hall sensor so you'd still need a working one of those. Probably your problem is bad deteriorating wiring harness.

Now there was never ever made a 240 lh 2.2 EZK harness. You have to make that from scratch. 740's had lh 2.2 non turbo with EZK stock. Some people harvest that part of the harness out of the 80's 740 and use that in there EZK swapped 240.

Dave Barton makes an LH2.2/EZK 117 conversion harness as well as an LH2.4/EZK 116 conversion harness for 240's.

http://www.240turbo.com/volvoharnesses.html#240conversionharness

Buy the Dave Barton harness or switch to the breakerless ignition system used from 76-81 on most 240s.

Your car has LH 2.0, btw.

Another option, if you were going to go turbo, would be to go LH 2.1 from an '84 760T. Uses EZK102K, instead of EZK115 or EZK117, but would be compatible with the current AMM and engine harness. You'd need to use the 760 EZK ignition harness and add the resistors, then use the LH 2.1 computer.

The better route is to skip LH 2.1 altogether and go to 2.2, though. Cheaper and more common AMM, plus you're not stuck with the LH 2.0 cube relays, which, while mostly reliable, are a less elegant solution than the white LH 2.1 and newer system relay.

wow lots of great information here

sbabbs, I have the Chrysler distributor in my 83, with the ugly white cap and all. So if I convert, the distributor has to go. My understanding is the hall sender puts out a different signal.

hiperfauto, thanks for the link, those harnesses look like a really good idea. They address an issue that I had not considered. The 700 cars ran lower resistance injectors with a resistor pack. That answers why some people were pulling injectors in this swap. I take it the resistor pack just serves the purpose of adding resistance to the solenoid coils. So if I do end up trying to make a harness from a 740 I should remove the resistance pack and I should be able to keep my current injectors. Do I have that correct?

John242TI, I checked the AMM and the part number is 0280212002 is so this means I am running LH 2.1 correct? I was using this as my guide.

And for the my current woes, I do not think my problem is bad wiring surprisingly! I tried the procedure in the bentley manual. I didn't make a whole lot of sense, but it made me believe my problem is the hall sensor. it says to disconnect the hall sensor from the distributor. Then jumper terminals B and C. With the ignition on and a jumper wire installed pull a plug and plug wire. Ground the spark plug and pull the jumper, this should cause a spark, if you have a spark then the problem is the hall sensor. Well I didn't pull a plug, but I had the wire close to the strut mount to see if I could get a spark. when I would pull the jumper I wouldn't get a spark, but i did get creeks from the injectors cycling. This tells me the ICU was getting the signal from what I was doing at the plug and that the problem is probably the hall sensor. I did check the power at terminal A and it had battery power. Why I think I didnt get a spark, well who is to day the rotor is lined up with plug wire I pulled. Are you supposed to pull all the plugs or what. Anyone know how to test the hall sensor? I was thinking of turning over the engine by hand with the key ignition on and listening for the injectors cycling. People say they pull the distributor and turn it by hand to test the hall sensor, but that seems like a lot of work to pull the distributor.

Thanks for all the help!

Unfortunately, iPd is incorrect.

LH 1.0 = certain late 1982 production cars with the B21F, 001 AMM used
LH 2.0 = 1983-84 240 with B23F, has cube relays near ECU, 002 AMM, Chrysler ignition, later versions have Bosch coil and distributor, but use Chrysler box and knock sensor
LH 2.1 = 1984 760 Turbo with B23FT, uses 002 AMM, like 2.0, but has EZK ignition and white transistorized relay, like 2.2 in 740/760
LH 2.2 = 1985-88 n/a cars, 1985-89 turbo cars - uses 007 AMM, either Chrysler (240), EZK (740/760) ignition
LH 2.4 = 1989-on n/a, 1990-on turbo - uses 016 AMM, EZK ignition with crank sensor
LH 3.1 = certain manual 1990-93 240, uses hot film AMM.

I didn't include the V6 760, which used K-Jet for most of its production, switching to LH 2.2 in 1987.

Thanks John. Sounds like this project just got more complicated. Your telling me my car is 2.0, and thus my harness will not play with a 2.2. Seems I would need to either pull a complete harness from a 740 with a 2.2 and EZK and modify to a 240, or buy one from Dave Burton and get the computers. That makes it a bit more of a challenge, I was hoping the swap to 2.2 would be easy. You are saying it won't.

Is the only way to test a hall sensor is with an oscilloscope? Or can I turn the engine over manually with the ignition on and listen for injector clicks?

Mario,

Even if your car had been an '84 760 Turbo with LH 2.1, you'd still have to find a LH 2.2 harness to get stuff working right. I'd do the dbarton conversion harness. You'll need to change the terminal for the oil pressure sender, since it's a 1/4" faston style terminal on a B23F, instead of the B230 style bullet connector. There are a couple ways of doing it. The simplest is to snip off the terminal and replace it with the correct one. More elegant would be to take a junk turn signal assembly, snip one of the wires close to the bullet connector, install the 1/4" terminal on the other end of the wire, then plug that into the wire on the harness. That way, if you wind up needing to do an engine swap, you could just take a 1993-95 squirter block B230F with block-mount distributor, swap your harness and distributor to it, then drop it into the car.

-J