240 ignition lock plate

While I was in there, I noticed my key is getting harder and harder to turn. On one occasion, the key would not turn off the engine. It eventually did, and now it still sticks even after blasting it with air, wd-40 graphite, etc.

When I turn the key, I notice the square plate in the pictures below moves a bit. I'm not really up for being without a car for weeks, and was wondering if I could remove the plate, take out the bits inside, and still use the key for the car. I would still like it to "look" like it needs the correct key for the car.
It's a 91 240 manual trans.

I wanted to ask before I destroyed it some more.

Thanks for entertaining my hackish ways.


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Right, the OE chicken fat grease was drying up in the 140s ~20 years ago and now it's the 240's turn.

I wouldn't use WD 40 because it's hygroscopic, and graphite is made for brass lock cylinders, plus it is carbon which is the catalyst for rust because the lock is made of pot metal and steel bits.

I'd use teflon based lubricants like Tri-flow or CLP Break Free [gun oil] which are designed to protect and lubricate dissimilar metals in contact with each other.

Well, I got it off out of curiosity-- the break free was a good idea, but it still would catch, and this is how I believe my starter burned up. The square part is now off...it was quite thick with a spring in the middle. Apparently, it is for the detent in the lock. So now it turns quite freely--more freely than I ever imagined or wanted...

I suppose I need an ignition lock and a super long extension cord to run my drill! Unless anyone has any suggestions.

Redwood Chair said:

I'd use teflon based lubricants like Tri-flow or CLP Break Free [gun oil] which are designed to protect and lubricate dissimilar metals in contact with each other.

Click to expand...

So true. I never thought about using break free for ignition locks, but if it's good enough for guns (and the military) then it's got to be great for locks.

In hindsight, I probably should have checked the ignition switch for smooth operation. With the switch off, and a screwdriver inserted into the hole, I turned the switch and it caught in the same place it did when it was installed on the lock. I didn't think it could have been the switch because I just bought it this year--but it was.

After taking the switch apart and greasing the heck out of it, but not the contacts, it now works smoothly. One would think that paying 70 dollars for a new part that it would be made well. Oh well. It is a beck arnley model.

In the future, I know now since this ain't my first rodeo ride to check the smoothness of the switch operation first and send it back if necessary.

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Welcome Volvo re-pop hell.