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Would just a thicker front sway bar make a difference ?

I like a balance too, I was just saying why Volvo put the cars out with a hefty amount of understeer backed in.
 
Anti-sway bars should be a final "tune" of sorts when you're addressing the way a car handles. Once you get the geometry and compression/rebound set to your liking/driving taste/type of driving; then you move to the sway bars. Utilize the suspension to get it a nearly set or set. Then a sway bar to tighten(for lack of better words) up the cornering. Take a look at rally cars, they have a long suspension travel, yet corner quite flat. It has to do with the initial suspension set up. Derail complete. :cool:
 
I'm so glad you guys talked about this. I've had a couple scary situations (no autoX yet) where I've gone into corners hard and found the rear end swinging round hard and the front heading straight into the corner just as JohnMc describes... so basically it sounds like I have some pretty decent oversteer with my setup.

I have a 25mm/25mm front/rear bars on the car right now and I guess because of my oversteer I'm looking to decrease the rear bar size or go without a rear bar. Do you guys know if anyone makes/made a rear bar that had dual exhaust cutouts aside from the ipd 25mm unit?
 
Might check other variables first.

Tires the same on all 4 corners? What about the pressure? Lower pressure in the rear might not reduce actual grip all that much (unless it's really low), but in a quick transition a lower pressure can let the rear deflect a bit more, which starts that end of the car moving a little, which can continue on into a loss of traction. Shocks can also do things like that in a quick transition in a way that wouldn't happen if you eased into the corner.
 
I'm so glad you guys talked about this. I've had a couple scary situations (no autoX yet) where I've gone into corners hard and found the rear end swinging round hard and the front heading straight into the corner just as JohnMc describes... so basically it sounds like I have some pretty decent oversteer with my setup.

I have a 25mm/25mm front/rear bars on the car right now and I guess because of my oversteer I'm looking to decrease the rear bar size or go without a rear bar. Do you guys know if anyone makes/made a rear bar that had dual exhaust cutouts aside from the ipd 25mm unit?


Using the 25/25 should give you more oversteer but what you are describing is understeer and a twitchy rear. What springs are you running? It could be the front springs are too soft
 
What I'm describing is oversteer. I go diving into the corner and the car spins around almost facing the direction I came from instead of just turning and sliding in a straight line.
 
I'm so glad you guys talked about this. I've had a couple scary situations (no autoX yet) where I've gone into corners hard and found the rear end swinging round hard and the front heading straight into the corner just as JohnMc describes... so basically it sounds like I have some pretty decent oversteer with my setup.

I have a 25mm/25mm front/rear bars on the car right now and I guess because of my oversteer I'm looking to decrease the rear bar size or go without a rear bar. Do you guys know if anyone makes/made a rear bar that had dual exhaust cutouts aside from the ipd 25mm unit?

The stock 21mm 240 turbo bar or the 23mm 79Gt rear bar have a fit and finish second to none.
 
Do you guys know if anyone makes/made a rear bar that had dual exhaust cutouts aside from the ipd 25mm unit?

IPD will sell you a 22mm rear with the dual kick up for exhaust on either/both sides. I went up to 28mm in front and down to 22mm in the rear to help make throttle-on oversteer surprises with V8 torque a bit less exciting.
 
What I'm describing is oversteer. I go diving into the corner and the car spins around almost facing the direction I came from instead of just turning and sliding in a straight line.

IF everything is right with the car.....

Learn to drive the car!

Practice-practice-practice-practice

Many 'issues' with how a car handles are due to a ham-fisted driver being a savage in his car with mis-matched tires and worn out shocks.

Practice how the car responds to inputs of steering with throttle at the same place.... Under acceleration.... Under braking... Sharp steering inputs... Gentle steering inputs...

Anyone who believes he is 'Dialed in' with our old junk isn't. We just don't have enough time behind the wheel sliding around to be there.

Keep in mind that manufacturers go to considerable effort at making sure their products do not make the evening news due to pirouetting off the road.
 
Driver mod is always the answer.

A really good driver will go around turns faster in a poorly done car then the savage with no talent in a capable car. Getting to where you have a feel for the car... This comes from seat time while sliding around in many situations... Different surfaces... Bumps... Off-camber turns.. Turns cambered such that you can blow through the turn at seemingly impossible speeds... . Knowing how it behaves when you are hard on the brakes and add a steering input.

Practice-practice-practice-practice

Be safe about it.
 
Interesting topic.

No legitimate dry "track" (or 240) experience here, but once I moved my 945 from stock front/rear bars to both 25mm IPD bars, it was much more difficult to handle in 3-6" of snow. Snap oversteer is a shocking concept once you experience it for the first time in the wrong place unexpectedly. I will be going back to stock or no rear bar before the snow flies this year, for sure. Hands down, stock springs and bars handle stability in snow/ice better.

I'd imagine this is an extrapolation or exaggeration that also applies to dry track, but don't have any real evidence.
 
All things being equal, more front bar will help the car transition left/right, more rear bar helps the car turn in steady-state corners. Oversimplification, but accurate.
 
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