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Old 04-01-2012, 09:03 PM   #26
M.H. Yount
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Well - after two folks I respect asked about the wisdom of having the tie-wraps sitting in gasoline for long periods of time, I decided I better do something about it. I think it would be ok -- but no need to take any risk as other alternatives are available. After the same amount of holding my mouth just so -- the unit came back out. I removed the tie-wraps -- and one of the large clamps that was making clearance a challenge. And I used some annealed stainless wire to hold things that need to secured. Picture below. I'll attach the electrical wiring permanently tomorrow morning and put it back in the tank. Last 2 fittings should arrive Monday -- and I'll start routing hose from back to front.

Thanks Joe and Brad -- turns out that the 'holder' on one of the tie-wraps probably would've interfered with the sender float going all the way to the top. Good that I took it back out now - while it's relatively easy.

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Old 04-02-2012, 10:20 PM   #27
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Pulling the assembly back out and modifying it was a really good move. MUCH easier to install with a few adjustments that I made as I moved clamps, removed clamps, removed tie-wraps, etc. Got it wired up before I installed it, and ran a dedicated ground from the battery (trunk-mount = easy) over to be sure the pump is well grounded. The big brown truck brought my 2 90-degree fittings so I can start plumbing tomorrow. Or not....
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Old 04-05-2012, 10:10 PM   #28
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I bought $6 worth of 3/8" clear tubing at Home Depot. I was willing to sacrifice 6 bucks in order to not drag the 'nice' new textile covered fuel line all over the garage floor (not to mention the bottom of the car) while I was laying out line and installing padded clamps. As planned - ran the return line out the stock triangular shaped opening in the Panhard support, through the clamp at the top of the driver's side frame rail and along the path of the original supply line. It will be supported in the original supply line clamps/rubber isolators.

I ran a short line from the pump outlet to the inlet of the filter. I modified the bracket that used to support the stock in-line pump to hold a second clamp on the passenger side (same location as the new return line) -- and basically hung about 6 clamps between there and the front of the car to locate the new supply line just inside the frame rail on the passenger side. Both return and supply lines are clamped at the stamped piece that holds the A-arm bushing and again on the leading edge of the engine crossmember.

I'll have to make a small heat shield around the cat on the passenger's side - already have one on the driver's side since all the lines passed through there originally. Once I have it plumbed up with the actual fuel line -- I'll take some pics. Getting close...
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Old 04-06-2012, 12:14 AM   #29
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Looking good sir! On an off topic note, will you be at cars and coffee this Saturday? I'm going to go ahead and assume the 240 won't make it but you still could.
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Old 04-06-2012, 09:03 AM   #30
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Correct - the 240 won't make it; don't know whether I will or not. You goin'?
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Old 04-06-2012, 09:35 AM   #31
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I'll be there in my 240. I got it out of the garage and up a muddy hill yesterday, and it runs okay. I should be able to tune it a little today and nurse it the mile and a half there tomorrow.
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Old 04-06-2012, 10:21 AM   #32
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I'll try and make it. You can text me at 704.996.4493... ??Is '...up a muddy hill...' a pre-Cars/Coffee test??

Here's an idea of what we're dealing with on the new supply side. Didn't have the camera with me when I was under the car yesterday -- just 'leaned in/under' to take this one.





Keep in mind - once I have final routing with all clamps in their final locations -- I'll pull all the fittings/clear tubing and make everything up with the 'good' hose using the clear as a template. Then it will simply bolt right in. And fit.

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Old 04-09-2012, 09:03 PM   #33
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Started work on the electrical circuit today. Remove back seat; pull the wiring from the inline fuel pump through the floor into the interior. Extend the hot wire into the trunk. You can see it laying up against the base of the wheel well here inside the corrugated protection...



I remove the male connector from the fuel pump/sender plug in the trunk. I've gotten pretty good at opening up these factory connectors ---- I'll add the additional wire into the plug. This way the wire for the original in-tank pump will be augmented by the wire for the inline pump in terms of carrying current to the new in-tank pump.



Here you can see the finished plug -- both wires connected. Now when I plug it in - the factory connection for the pump remains intact; and I have plenty of wire/capacity for current to the new pump. In the background you can also see where I ran a dedicated ground from the battery to the ground for the pump/send housing.



Now to the front -- here I've removed the female connection from the factory fuel pump relay -- this is the source of 12V+ to the two wires pictured in the back. I'll use the output of the stock relay (the male connector where these wires connect) to 'trigger' a new, heavier duty relay. The new relay will get it's hot input for the pumps and for the relay coil from the hot input to the stock relay. I'll ground it to the chassis -- and the 'output' of the relay will be connected to the stock fuel pump wires you see in the picture. This will provide the factory fuse protection -- but reduce the amount of current through the stock Volvo relay to next to nothing. Dave Barton has a great detail of this upgrade on his site www.davebarton.com -- click on 240 mods and scroll down.


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Old 04-10-2012, 04:05 PM   #34
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Another great update. Thanks.
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Old 04-10-2012, 08:43 PM   #35
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Spent the day in the front footwells and under the hood with a test light, 35 aligator-clip jumpers, a DVM, a Volvo manual and a Probst Ford EECIV manual --- and most of the time, a very puzzled look on my face. I didn't do the conversion on the car -- it was one of the early ones done by Frank Plumbley in Augusta, GA back in '96. In fact, IPD did a newsletter feature on the car right after Frank converted it -- sometime in the fall of '96 I believe. The car has been remarkably reliable since I got it in 2000 -- Frank did a nice job. But I don't know exactly how or where the Ford engine harness and the Volvo harness connect. That lack of knowledge is particularly acute when it comes to how the Volvo fuel pump relay fires the fuel pump. The stock connections (Volvo relay) to the neg. coil and the regulator/idle valve are clearly not connected to those things any longer as none of that stuff remains. But they are connected to something because something was triggering it in a 'factory' fashion - it primes for a second or so when the ignition is switched to 'run'; it will prime for 3 seconds or so if the starter keeps turning but the engine doesn't start. Of course if the engine fires - the pump keeps running. I started having problems with the circuit about 6 months ago. Replaced the Volvo relay - worked for several months, but I began having problems again just before I started this project. I suspect -- just a guess -- this has to do with the last little bit of the 30 year old Volvo engine harness that is remaining and trying to connect Ford things to Volvo things under the hood. I cleaned up most of that when I pulled the motor for some hot-rodding back in '02 -- but I didn't get all of it. Should have.

The Ford ecu provides a ground to the Ford FP relay coil that functions the way I've described above. Get a temporary ground to prime -- but if it doesn't see the motor running pretty quick (PIP signal at the dizzy) it kills the pump. I've checked the Ford fp relay - and it seems to working just as it should. But all is dead at the Volvo relay. So --- I'm going to use the Ford fp relay output (that would normally go to the hot side of the pump) as a 'trigger' for a new 40A relay to fire the pump. The ground and hot side will come from the Volvo relay circuit. Should work. I'll report back assuming I don't let all the smoke out of it.

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Old 04-10-2012, 09:09 PM   #36
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That seems to be pretty much what I did. Used the Ford PCM ground signal to operate the Ford FP relay, which supplied fused power to the Volvo in tank pump fuse #5 and connected using the Volvo wiring to a new relay in the rear to operate both pumps. The original Volvo fuse panel supplied 8A on fuse #5 for the tank pump and 16A on fuse #6 but now the wiring to the rear is only 'signal' power to operate the relay.

The original converter is most likely using your Ford computer to operate the Volvo FP relay as the original operation was direct connection from the ignition switch to the relay to the pumps.
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Old 04-10-2012, 10:21 PM   #37
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Original operation was more complex than that Tom. It used a 6-pin relay (essentially a 'double' relay in one housing) that looked not only for 'ignition on' but also checked to see if the engine was running. In the event of an incident that shuts the engine off but not the ignition (accident) it stopped the pump. And it only primed for a few seconds at start unless the engine started. Similar to the way the Ford methodology works -- but it got there entirely differently. Ford did it with an ecu-switched ground. Volvo did it with a miniature circuit board inside the relay that looked for ignition and engine run signs. However, the Volvo relay and plug are intact and were firing the fuel pumps. So there is some connection to the Ford system -- it's just not the switched ground circuit. My guess is that it replaced whatever it was looking for to determine engine running with something similar from the Ford ECU - probably the PIP signal from the dizzy. But, I'm just making that up....

My relay will be up front essentially in place of the old one -- I can take the hot "in", ground and hot "out" (to the fuel pump) pins out of the existing relay plug and hook them straight to the new relay. And then connect the 'output' of the Ford fuel pump relay (which is controlled by the Ford ECU) as the new trigger.
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Old 04-10-2012, 10:54 PM   #38
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PIP signal from the dizzy?
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Old 04-10-2012, 11:02 PM   #39
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You don't have one. The Hall-effect sensor that tells the system when/where #1 is so it can sync the injector signals. It's at the bottom of the distributor housing.
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Old 04-10-2012, 11:05 PM   #40
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Distributor housing?
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Old 04-10-2012, 11:14 PM   #41
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It's next to the carb.
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Old 04-11-2012, 12:44 PM   #42
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Well - the investigation was taxing -- but the result was a pretty easy solution. Turns out the output of the Mustang/Ford fuel pump relay was providing the power input to fuse #5. As I traced the wire from the relay (underhood) back into the car -- it was connected to a 'new' wire that ran to the backside of fuse #5. I recall having to cut this wire when I pulled the motor (and computer) -- because I put a male/female plug in to make disconnection easier the next time. Didn't know what it did or what it was -- just knew I needed to reconnect it. So all I had to do was unplug it from the power-supply/backside of fuse #5 at the fuse box -- and plug it into the new relay. Now power supply comes into the relay through fuse 7. It's triggered by the output of the Ford FP relay -- and it sends power to both of the original Volvo fuel pump wires, which if you've been following along, are now connected through the original plug in the trunk to the new fuel pump. According to the test light - it's working as it should. Primes for about a second with 'key-on'. Primes as long as it's turning over at more than 120 rpm. Should keep running when the engine starts.

Here I've pulled the 3 wires needed out of the Volvo relay plug - red is the power supply from fuse #7; black is ground for the relay coil; and the 2 yellow/red wires head back to the fuel pump.



Here I've rigged up the new relay with a jumper to simulate the signal input from the Ford relay. Sure enough -- I get power at the pump plug at the back, as I should.



Here I've put some shrink wrap around the plugs --- just a bit of help so that something hot is less likely to touch something it shouldn't when plugs are being pulled on/off.



And here - I decided to leave the Volvo fp relay/plug in place and just taped the new relay to it. (thanks Sean) I've got the 'trigger' wire from the Ford relay hooked up (green wire). Everything is all buttoned up after testing. Can't do any more now until my hoses come back from Fragola Perf. Systems. Turns out it's VERY difficult to make up the -6AN hose ends. The interference fit is extremely tight - and despite coaching from the folks at Fragola, use of boiling water and/or a heat gun to heat the hose (Fragola recommended this as they do it this way) I was never able to get a hose past the first barb. And it must go completely over two. So I mocked everything up, cut the Series 8000 hose to length -- and sent the hoses/ends to the good folks at Fragola who will make them up for me and ship them back. I'm ready. I've got a pump to test!!!


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Old 04-13-2012, 06:15 PM   #43
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Brint and the fine folks at Fragola Performance Systems received my hoses/fittings on Tues and had them on the way back to me Wed. I got them today!!!



I was able to pretty quickly get the shortest one (8") installed -- from the supply bulkhead fitting to the filter inlet.



The other two are 10' (supply) and 13' (return) long and have multiple hangers along the way. I don't want to start that until I can finish it. My wife had oral surgery this morning (metal implant screwed into the lower jawbone!) so I'm in nursing mode this evening. And it's Friday the 13th anyhow -- I'll try and get it running tomorrow!!

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Old 04-14-2012, 08:44 PM   #44
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Well - got the hoses in today -- everything hooked up and tightened. Still have a small heat shield to build for the passenger side cat -- and then I can start the car. In the morning I'll take a stab at jumpering the pump and see if we have any leaks.

Both lines hooked up at the back. Line on the left (driver's side) is the return - it follows the same path/hangers that the stock supply line was in.



Here's the return line exiting through the little hole in the Panhard support and headed to the front of the car.



Here's the supply line (passenger side) leaving the filter and running to the front. I put new rubber lined clamps all the way to the front --- basically the same route as the original supply line, but on the passenger side of the car.



Here's the termination point up front. Simple barbed fittings to connect to the Ford supply and return lines. All of this will be hidden by the 'splash' pan.



And here's a broader shot from up front -- you can see (sort of) how the return line comes up and crosses under the engine.



Now I have 3/8" (-6AN) fittings right up front so if new powerplants require more fuel, the system should have no problem delivering it. And plumbing it up can all be done with a bit of work at the front of the car.

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Old 04-15-2012, 08:46 PM   #45
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First success this afternoon!!! I put the battery on the charger -- and jumpered the hot side of the pump plug. This allowed me to easily test the pump by turning my ground disconnect switch off and on. Pump fired right up -- and miracle of miracle -- not one leak. Pump sounded fine (quiet!) and you could hear it push the air out of the system as it gurgled through the return into the tank. Put the pressure gauge on it -- and it came right in at about 41 psig. That's on the high side -- 39 psig is preferred so I'll check that at warm idle once I've got 'er down off the stands and running again.

Here's a pic of the jumpered plug....



I crawled underneath to try and take a few pics of the heat shields around the cats, as well as the general routing of the lines. But it's tough without the car on a lift. (must get lift....getting too old) So the next few shots just show a bit of the routing. First one shows how the return line snakes past the rear brake line proportioning valves; next couple show some of the heat shields; and perhaps the last one is with the trunk finally back together.









So - with any luck tomorrow I'll get it back on the ground and see if she'll start. No reason to think that will pose a problem as I have pressure where I should; I know the pump is circulating fine; and my electrical checks seem to be showing that the relay circuit is working as it should. Then on to mounting a new set of wheels and tires.

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Old 04-15-2012, 10:51 PM   #46
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Good deal. Glad you are doing it the right way.
I hadn't thought about extending the inline pump supply wires to the rear like that. I'll definitely do that when I convert to a single pump!
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Old 04-15-2012, 11:25 PM   #47
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Looks like your whiteblock conversion is coming along nicely. Ultimately, I want to LS3 mine - and this fuel system will manage that quite nicely. I also wanted the space to put two mufflers in front of the rear axle -- so the inline pump had to go. Am intrigued by your muffler fab --- I've often wanted to make my own and may yet give it a go.
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Old 04-16-2012, 09:42 AM   #48
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The Ford engine has supply/return connections on the front/passenger side of the compartment.
Do these connections point down towards the ground? Just wondering why you didn't bring the feed line up the firewall and across to the engine instead of routing under crossmember and up from the bottom of engine.
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:36 AM   #49
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Do these connections point down towards the ground? Just wondering why you didn't bring the feed line up the firewall and across to the engine instead of routing under crossmember and up from the bottom of engine.
Just saw this, it seems a bit risky exposing the line on the forward most point under the car.
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Old 04-16-2012, 03:28 PM   #50
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"Just wondering why you didn't bring the feed line up the firewall and across to the engine..."

Because the connections to the Ford system are at the bottom of the engine (yes -- pointing down towards the ground) under the alternator and air injection pump on the passenger side front of the engine. They sit about 2" away from the downward 'dip' the front V6 sway bar takes to clear the balancer. The connections to the system previously came via two 6' long rubber efi hoses from the stock Volvo filter/return line high on the firewall on the driver's side running alongside the driver's side framerail (in close proximity to the steering shaft and the driver's side exhaust manifold). This change was, in part, to get rid of that routing which was terrible given the location of the stock rails on the Ford motor. Not only did the new routing remove about 6' of fuel line from the supply route and 3' of line from the return route (both of which reduce risk) - it removed about 12' of rubber fuel line (supply and return) from the ravages of engine compartment heat. And I was very careful to keep it higher than all the hard parts (oil pan bottom, bottom of bell housing, lower braces/suspension arms, front 'frame rails', front sway bar....). If I have a big enough excursion to damage the fuel lines -- I will have run into (literally) much bigger problems than that.

A big part of the reason for going this route is that when the time comes to swap the Ford lump for an LS lump -- I can very easily modify this new 3/8" system to deliver fuel exactly where it's needed. In the case of the LS with a car manifold it's right at the top/rear of the intake manifold. And in the meantime -- I have much less fuel line (and MUCH more robust) in the system than I did before subject to much less heat than it was before. So I'm pretty sure I'm better off in all respects than before. I did give it a good bit of thought before jumping in.... And yes -- I wish the connections to the Ford system were on the driver's side, high near the back of the engine. But they didn't ask me.

A footnote -- unless you've played with V8 conversions - you're probably unaware of just how tiny the real estate is you have to work with running anything from below up the firewall. On both sides you now have exhaust manifold joints that are nearly right up against the frame rail. I'll take advantage of the engine being out of the car when I do the LS conversion to make choices on fuel line routing and exhaust manifolds so that I minimize the interference between the two.

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