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Need help with first turbobrick project!

OK so you are saying a 90+ turbo manifold from a turbo 240 preferably? And the stock NA header pipe is fine? Then run a straight pipe from header? Of course we have to keep in mind the front muffler, the cat, the rear muffler, then the tail pipe but I can cut the first muffler out at least?

Also, why do you advise against an aftermarket manifold? (Doesn't have to be ebay)
 
1990+ mani from a 7/9 series turbo
Stock NA header pipe will not work
Aftermarket manifolds are crap mostly and a waste of $$
 
It does say the the T3 turbo will be a direct fit for the aftermarket manifold I posted above^^^

I am looking to header pipes and saw a bosal which seems to be of better quality than starla for only $100. The sizing looks similar to NA 2" I assume. I know I need bigger. Specs aren't listed. Also will stock NA intake manifold be ok?
 
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A t3 might fit that eBay manifold, but it won't fit your car without modification, and without added support it'll crack and fail.

Also that bosal down pipe is for NA cars and won't work on a turbo.
 
OK sweet. I just did some research about those cheap stainless steel manifolds and they are JUNK. If I go 90+ turbo mani what do you recommend for exhaust from header on? Thoughts on sport exhaust from ipd?
 
940 down pipe can be made to fit I think, with some tinkering.
There's some fuss with conical vs flat flange turbo.
Or get a 240turbo downpipe and IPD turbo exhaust kit would work.
 
The down pipe and header are the same thing correct? Is there any way of assembling the exhaust without mods? If not, what kind of mods are the usual?

And with aftermarket exhaust parts, I feel will be easier than trying to find stock turbo parts.

Thanks
 
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Correct
By turbo-ing a NA car, you are doing 'mods', no way to avoid that.
Get a 90+ exhaust mani from a 7/9 turbo, a 13c or 15g turbo and oem turbo downpipe and an IPD turbo exhaust system

And since most of the aftermarket stuff is crap, it might be easier to source, but it'll be harder to install and won't last. That makes it not easier. The IPD aftermarket exhaust components are ok though.
 
90+ manifold, 13c, and either a 2 series turbo downpipe or a 7/9 series that you'll have to modify slightly. I would piece together your own exhaust.
 
Yea I figured assembling my own exhaust would be best. I guess I need to start learning how to weld :-P

Would it be best to assemble after the header or from manifold? I got the injectors I needed as well and tried them on my 92 240 in the yard. They were direct fit as McLovin stated!!! Does anyone know the stock NA 240 injector flow rate?

Also, no one answered my question about the stock intake manifold. Will the NA intake be fine?
 
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Any recommendation on piecing exhaust after downpipe?

IPD sport exhaust would be doable here correct? If I decide to go that route. I would just have to make sure downpipe outlet is 2.25"?
 
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He called me mclovin:lol:

So you have a turbo manifold, and the turbo goes on that. Then you have a downpipe (no header here! Just manifold>turbo>downpipe. The downpipe end just looks like a piece of exhaust. Maybe have a shop weld it straight piped for you (trust me, if you can't weld, it's money well spent paying someone who knows what they're doing. I speak from experience). Or if you give a **** about the environment or your neighbors you could get a cat and a muffler. The free-er flowing the better. 2.5" or larger from the downpipe back would be my recommendation.
 
Can you guys give me a rundown on head and cam suggestions? Will stock head and cam be OK? I know I can do some additional things for extra HP. Will ports on NA head but substantial enough with turbo manifold, etc?

Thanks
 
Can you guys give me a rundown on head and cam suggestions? Will stock head and cam be OK? I know I can do some additional things for extra HP. Will ports on NA head but substantial enough with turbo manifold, etc?

Thanks

Turbo and NA heads are IDENTICAL. Only variations are the turbo motors have a 't' cam (hence turbo) and sodium filled exhaust valves. The t cam, just like the m cam in the NA motors, is best served as a paper weight. It's a very boring cam. The sodium filled exhaust valves are used to dissipate heat more quickly I believe, but they are NOT required and would be a waste of your time to install.

You do not need to 'open up' the motor by taking the head off to turbo it. I wasn't kidding, it's literally as simple as pulling off your stock exhaust, installing the turbo manifold and turbo, and plumbing everything up. You don't need to touch the timing belt, head, cam, or anything like that.

That being said, I would rock the m cam you have until your car is a fully functional +t. Don't do 2 projects at once unless you really know what you're doing.

After that, many people recommend an iPd turbo cam (not the same as the t cam found in factory turbo motors!), or perhaps a K or V cam. But worry about that another day.
 
Ok sweet. So I found a guy with an altogether running 92 240 B230F that got wrecked he is selling for parts or the whole car (The passenger door literally just got side swiped). He said JY offered him 200$. It has 250,000 miles on it but that's nothing since I am rebuilding anyway. I am doing this entire brick from the ground up. I would have liked to get a hold of a block alone so I could just start immediately without pulling an engine but I will do what I have to. I will get the block placed on the engine stand and clean it up. It would then be a good idea to get my turbo oil lines taken care of. I will then apply head gasket and head and then begin everything else.

Back to exhaust for a moment. Sorry! :oops:

I want something loud but not too loud. I see a lot of people go with just a cat or just one muffler, no cat. Is it just preference? Will a cat make it louder but a muffler help quiet the sound?

Thanks!
 
Ok sweet. So I found a guy with an altogether running 92 240 B230F that got wrecked he is selling for parts or the whole car (The passenger door literally just got side swiped). He said JY offered him 200$. It has 250,000 miles on it but that's nothing since I am rebuilding anyway. I am doing this entire brick from the ground up. I would have liked to get a hold of a block alone so I could just start immediately without pulling an engine but I will do what I have to. I will get the block placed on the engine stand and clean it up. It would then be a good idea to get my turbo oil lines taken care of. I will then apply head gasket and head and then begin everything else.

Back to exhaust for a moment. Sorry! :oops:

I want something loud but not too loud. I see a lot of people go with just a cat or just one muffler, no cat. Is it just preference? Will a cat make it louder but a muffler help quiet the sound?


Thanks!

Although 250,000 miles is 'high' you might just want to do a compression test and leak down test or whatever to see what kind of condition it is in. It could still be in great condition, ready to be boosted.

I have a 60mm downpipe (stock) to 2.5" exhaust piping, to a thrush turbo muffler. Last weekend I cut apart the muffler and pulled out the insides, but it's basically straight piped with no cat or muffler. I'll try to upload a video. It is very quiet. If you're going 2.5", I would straight pipe it. Any larger and you might be better off with a muffler to keep things quiet.

For the record, I'll probably go back to that muffler shop and have them 'delete' the muffler so it's straight piped.

Here is open downpipe. Much louder in person, especially when you got on it.
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/0N2FCec8PCg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Heres after they welded it up. So 60mm downpipe>2.5" piping>thrush turbo muffler with the insides bashed out.
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Prd71Bj5GZc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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Hell yea! So I guess a cat isn't necessary but maybe a nice turbo muffler will do. I do plan on going 3" just for a little more bite. Also it will help with keeping the exhaust tip at the original location (the muffler). It would probably cost more to weld it around the backside and then at the exhaust tip opening?
 
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