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short strut inserts

So a friend I went to town a bit ago and got my 940 billy HD's apart...sure enough theres stops.

IMG_20110102_124203.jpg


so we cut them down and the strut shaft still hits and compresses just the one rubber bumper.

IMG_20110102_124751.jpg


We cut 2.25 inches static rubber out....which I bet is 1.5 inches compressed higth I just gained.
 
Very interesting....way offtopic this thread has gone.....but before I install the coil over sleeve....Ill tack in the camber plate and cycle suspension with just the insert in the tube with tire on. I may need to trim the yellow outer cover and shorten the spindle tube to get the desired outcome.....but I think I can work with what I have. Shortening the yellow tube would only be because the there is more travel left in the strut that the tube will allow hitting the top spring cup for the coil over.

I could even cut all the internal bumps off and install a larger external bump for bottoming reasons.
 
so are you just keeping the billys then?

I think so....my dad came over and we looked it all over....I think I can use the stock upper spring mount with the bearing for turning....just cut it down and weld on a tube to guide the upper coil. We gained some travel by getting rid of some of the isolation from the stock unit. Later tonight Ill put it back together without the spring and see where Im at.....if anything, i can raise the upper mount like an inch and gain all travel I wanted.
 
Yeah on 7s and 9's theres room to cut the tower and raise it for extra travel.. Wish my 240 could do that! Nothing to gain on my 240 i have like 1/4 before it hits the hood
 
So I installed both struts tonight....stock HD Bilstien and the one I cut 3 of the 4 stops off of. I realized tonight, and a good visual of the enpty spring cup.....I was actually getting coil bind. So now will be the trick to get the right coil spring in there!

So I set my ride hiegth to what I want now...lookin good is about 2.25 inches from fender lip to the top of the wheel......with stock HD in there I was able to compress it to 1.375 inches to top of wheel, and with the bumps removed I got it down to a half inch.

SO it looks like just going to a coil setup on the stock 9 tube will get me the travel I want......so Ill look into Bens drop in camber plates that may acutally raise the strut a little since I was just using the stock strut plate.

YAY, no tower mods!!!!!:spin:

ride hiegth

IMG_20110102_201720.jpg


same shot

IMG_20110102_201642.jpg




stock billy compressed

IMG_20110102_202032.jpg



fully compressed modded billy.....with the liner out there is not much room left from the tire to the wheel well, so modding much more wont do much.

IMG_20110102_203331.jpg
 
I need to confirm the strut housing dimensions.

First post says 5, 7cm...

Does that mean 5 to 7 cm or 5.7cm?

Running my strut housings up to the machine shop and want to have this right the first time.
 
What is the part number for the Koni race inserts dual adjustables that can be used in the 240 short struts?
 
universal 8611 is the more expensive dual adjustment. the singles are 8610.
they need to be the universal inserts. they do make this strut for a lot of makes and models, but not for ours (technically)
 
They are pretty much saab struts. im running 480# springs with saab 9-3 HDs and its not under dampened.
 
Comparison shot

Saab 900 top, stock 240 bottom
saabvsvolvodemperf.jpg


Also, saab 99 front dampers apparently fits in the rear.. Will come back with more info once I have fitted them
saab99demper.jpg
 
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Ok the rear dampers are in (SAAB 99 front shocks)

Almost tucking tire with the car jacked up
archgap.jpg


saabdemper.jpg


This much was removed from the spring, and it still has pre tension (or whatever it's called)
Avkapp.jpg


The fronts aren't done yet, as I need to make some bushings for the topmounts.

On the fronts I just made some solid spacers witch fit perfectly in the strut nuts
Demperforing1.jpg


Demperforing.jpg
 
You should put those spacers under the strut not on top unless you are purposely removing travel from the suspension.
 
Looks like you could cut the spacer and put a small piece of it on top if you need it so that the gland nut seats properly. Then put the rest under the strut insert.
 
You should put those spacers under the strut not on top unless you are purposely removing travel from the suspension.

Im just going for slammage here, as this is on my summer cruiser.. I can always redo it in the winter if it sucks..

I forgot to write that the only thing that needs doing to run the saab dampers at the rear is pressing over the metal bits of the bushings from the volvo ones..
 
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