• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

252R - Built Whiteblock swap

I never had a problem also in my last car, besides when I had my headlight relay upside down, it shorted out in the rain. Flipped it and it never happened again.
 
I support your driveshaft. I welded a t5 driveshaft to a 73 toyota hilux drive shaft. Didnt balance it or anything. Barely vibrates at all
 
Any chance you could toss that angle finder that I see on your passenger side strut tower on your cam cover and tell me what angle you're running the engine at?
 
Canuck said:
Any chance you could toss that angle finder that I see on your passenger side strut tower on your cam cover and tell me what angle you're running the engine at?
Click to expand...

For some reason I want to say that ~11 degrees is the factory mounting angle... but that's just off the top of my head.
 
Canuck said:
Any chance you could toss that angle finder that I see on your passenger side strut tower on your cam cover and tell me what angle you're running the engine at?
Click to expand...

The Full Banana said:
For some reason I want to say that ~11 degrees is the factory mounting angle... but that's just off the top of my head.
Click to expand...

That's what I remember as well. I put a piece of plywood under the crossmember and engine/oil pan to get the proper position (used a jack to press it against the crossmember). The front of the engine needs to be supported a bit this way, but thats how I made sure the angle is about right.
 
I can also confirm the factory 960 engine angle is 11 degrees. I lucked out and got a precision angle gauge with some other inspection tools I bought this summer. I just measured the oil pan.
 
Nick Oc said:
Did that car have a manual rack in it, or were the holes just plugged?
Click to expand...

When I got the car it had an older version of the a PS rack in it. I swapped a 90 or 91 rack into it for better clearance of the whiteblock oil pan. (older racks are a bit more bulky).
 
blkaplan said:
do yourself a favor and ditch those poly axle bushing if you are gonna be using the truetrac. They dont work well with each other if you are ever gonna be cornering hard and wanting to accelerate out of the corner.
Click to expand...

What's the problem with PU-bushings and a TrueTrac??
 
justlie said:
That's what I remember as well. I put a piece of plywood under the crossmember and engine/oil pan to get the proper position (used a jack to press it against the crossmember). The front of the engine needs to be supported a bit this way, but thats how I made sure the angle is about right.
Click to expand...

Sorry - not being clear. I'd like the front to rear angle of the engine.
 
Estoque said:
What's the problem with PU-bushings and a TrueTrac??
Click to expand...

It over-constrains the rear axle and makes the suspension bind up when the car rolls. The rear lower trailing arm bushings are supposed to articulate. I have OEM volvo rubber bushings on my car with spherical bearings in all the other hardpoints and it works really well.
 
Fixed the HG in the 940 that I blew up on the dyno earlier this year. Only took 3 hours or so, mostly dicking around too.
7485_10100124054317895_3239026546613062557_n.jpg


Got adapters for my new wheel set. Test fit in the spring. Car is tucked away in the garage for the winter.
10150634_10100124054292945_4779084279077040970_n.jpg


Got me a small mill that I am going to convert to CNC so I can make small parts when I need them. I don't expect to do a lot of steel stuff so this should to fine. Would have gotten a Bridgeport if I had the room.
1925262_10100124054287955_1049356616706773031_n.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top