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Old 09-09-2018, 09:40 PM   #26
Redwood Chair
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Originally Posted by VB242 View Post
Lol old guys are funny, I should know I'm one of them. I'm using a 940T water/oil cooler, efan and radiator. I doubt Volvo went that route because it was cheaper, I don't think they would compromise on their reputation for reliability either. The Saab tee in the lower hose comes on at 199F and back off in about a minute at 189-190F, I don't smell anything the RWC is cooking. Different strokes for different folks though I reckon.
Tell that to Thomas / stealthfi.

I seem to remember he couldn't find a good E-fanned 940T engine block to build.

But hey if you're in a hurry and it revs up a tiny bit faster go for it!
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Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi stock cna support?

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Old 09-09-2018, 09:47 PM   #27
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Go whole hog 4 speed then, you know you wanna.
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Old 09-09-2018, 10:03 PM   #28
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So just being clear, the tee goes in the lower hose on the left? And is it recommended to get a fuse for the wire that goes to the battery?
Yes. Never install such a high current draw item without fusing it, you are just asking for trouble. Ask me how I know..

There are many many wrong and many many right ways to install and electric fan. Use good quality crimps, relays, fans,switches, and a good shroud.
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Old 09-09-2018, 10:07 PM   #29
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Don't forget the 100A Denso when you're picking the donor car.
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Old 09-09-2018, 10:14 PM   #30
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Tell that to Thomas / stealthfi.

I seem to remember he couldn't find a good E-fanned 940T engine block to build.

But hey if you're in a hurry and it revs up a tiny bit faster go for it!
I don't know anything about this, mine is a 200k mile work hardened B21 block that's been decked and cleaned up, maybe you'll be right eventually, I'll let you know.
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Old 09-09-2018, 11:01 PM   #31
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Enjoy your ~1 hp when the alternator isn't getting slammed with the e-fan.
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Old 09-10-2018, 08:11 AM   #32
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Just follow the instruction on the link below for your cooling fan install instructions.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...tric_fan.shtml

Only thing I did different is my coolant switch adapter. I bought a cheap aluminum one off ebay... Drilled it out with a 1/2 drill bit then tapped 14X1.5 threads in it for my adapter.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Radiator-ho...cAAOSwVXZbQ~hH

I installed a larger radiator from a 92 turbo, removed the water/oil cooler and have it mated to a manual transmission and live in Maine. Overkill maybe, but it gives me peace of mind when hauling my trailer.

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Old 09-10-2018, 09:14 AM   #33
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Nice, I've watched the video from David Bello a few times already, but this is more in depth.

Quick question, a friend has a relay and plugs, but the middle plug for the fan switch is missing the wires. Can I just rewire that plug or do I need a new complete one?
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Old 09-11-2018, 07:56 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by GeneralBurrito View Post
Nice, I've watched the video from David Bello a few times already, but this is more in depth.

Quick question, a friend has a relay and plugs, but the middle plug for the fan switch is missing the wires. Can I just rewire that plug or do I need a new complete one?
I could be mistaken, but I think a washer bottle plug is the same...yes you can hard wire it but you can also get a plug.
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Old 09-11-2018, 08:12 AM   #35
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I'll look into it, thanks
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Old 09-11-2018, 12:44 PM   #36
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I have all the specs on all those connectors here if you need to see: http://www.240turbo.com/blackvinyl.html#relaycoolingfan
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Old 09-11-2018, 12:54 PM   #37
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I'll keep your page in mind if I get his relays.
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Old 09-11-2018, 01:11 PM   #38
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....... If it has those, then no. It will ultimately produce less airflow through the smaller 940 shroud opening that the stock belt fan can pull.
Dave B
Dave, do you have on/off data from the belt driven fan thermostatic clutch to validate this?

Doesn't the total airflow in SCFM depend upon how it is controlled? I don't believe the LH2.4 ECU controls the 9 series E-fan in the same fashion as an external trigger source.

I know you went far beyond 99% of TBers in E-fan experimentation and development of control for your 2 series. For most of the users, I expect their issues occur when bogged down in traffic with AC cycling..... the 9 series fan on HIGH moves some air. The only T-stat fan I've got in my fleet is on my 93 AERO Van with 4.0L, and I know I can hear that thing ROAR in the cabin when engaged..... but that is only in traffic with AC operating.
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Old 09-11-2018, 01:19 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by DET17 View Post
Doesn't the total airflow in SCFM depend upon how it is controlled? I don't believe the LH2.4 ECU controls the 9 series E-fan in the same fashion as an external trigger source.

I know you went far beyond 99% of TBers in E-fan experimentation and development of control for your 2 series. For most of the users, I expect their issues occur when bogged down in traffic with AC cycling..... the 9 series fan on HIGH moves some air. The only T-stat fan I've got in my fleet is on my 93 AERO Van with 4.0L, and I know I can hear that thing ROAR in the cabin when engaged..... but that is only in traffic with AC operating.
Does the fan only turn on with AC or does it also operate without?
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Old 09-11-2018, 01:21 PM   #40
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My God! Just put the damn thing in!
It ain't rocket science.
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Old 09-12-2018, 06:47 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by GeneralBurrito View Post
Does the fan only turn on with AC or does it also operate without?
LH2.4 ECU control:

Low fan for temp setpoint via head mount CTS
HIGH fan for AC pressure set point (switches in condenser on 7/9; single switch used on late 2)

Theory of ops explained in the 700/900 UK Maint.pages, of course.
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Old 09-12-2018, 08:22 AM   #42
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I just wired mine for high speed operation off the Saab tee, I installed the tee in the lower hose which seemed to get hot quicker and I did have an issue with low coolant once when I had it triggered off the switch in the radiator where the fan didn't come on when it needed to.
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Old 09-12-2018, 09:04 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by VB242 View Post
I just wired mine for high speed operation off the Saab tee, I installed the tee in the lower hose which seemed to get hot quicker and I did have an issue with low coolant once when I had it triggered off the switch in the radiator where the fan didn't come on when it needed to.
I'm on lh2.2 if that changes anything. And I'm still thinking of which hose to put the tee in. So the lower hose gets hotter quicker? I thought that was the hose sending the "cooler" coolant.
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Old 09-12-2018, 09:17 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by GeneralBurrito View Post
I'm on lh2.2 if that changes anything. And I'm still thinking of which hose to put the tee in. So the lower hose gets hotter quicker? I thought that was the hose sending the "cooler" coolant.
2.2 won’t make a difference since you’re using an external switch (so non ecu operated).

I too thought the upper would get hit quicker since it’s right after the thermostat.

Here’s a post from the past
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Originally Posted by Captain Bondo View Post
Always in the lower hose (outlet). You don't switch the fan on because the coolant entering the rad is hot. Of course it's hot, it just came out of the cylinder head. You switch the fan on when the coolant leaving the rad (entering the motor) starts to get too hot. That means you need to increase airflow through the rad.
Upper hose may cause more sporadic cycling of the fan.

Last edited by PromiseRing; 09-12-2018 at 09:24 AM..
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Old 09-12-2018, 10:21 AM   #45
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2.2 won’t make a difference since you’re using an external switch (so non ecu operated).

I too thought the upper would get hit quicker since it’s right after the thermostat.

Upper hose may cause more sporadic cycling of the fan.
Ah, I get it now. So lower hose is the one to go with.
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Old 09-12-2018, 10:47 AM   #46
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What about the good old tried and true Nissens / IPD 3-row radiator, Tropical fan clutch & done?

In all my cars. Even in the 93 2.4 that runs slightly cooler. Otherwise these cars WILL overheat in the hours of traffic of 100* plus temps

Dont forget the belly pan and hood pad so the woosh cools down the entire engine bay.
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Old 09-12-2018, 10:56 AM   #47
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In all my cars. Even in the 93 2.4 that runs slightly cooler. Otherwise these cars WILL overheat in the hours of traffic of 100* plus temps

Dont forget the belly pan and hood pad so the woosh cools down the entire engine bay.


Let them eat cake.
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Old 09-13-2018, 10:54 AM   #48
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Let them eat cake.
The countless warped melted timing belt covers from the heat soak tho.

Ive melted the aftermarket spark plug wires, the rubbery ones without the metal boot
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Old 09-16-2018, 10:57 AM   #49
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So the middle relay plug needs 3.5mm female bullet connectors? Would these work?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F191719882681
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Old 09-16-2018, 11:04 AM   #50
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So the middle relay plug needs 3.5mm female bullet connectors? Would these work?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F191719882681
Are yo looking for a relay setup? Pretty sure I have a spare.
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