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Old 09-27-2015, 12:23 AM   #51
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nah bro, when you've got a low battery you'd best bust out the scope. gotta make sure.


While you're at it, check the rod bolt torque specs ;)
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Old 09-27-2015, 12:29 AM   #52
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I bought a 500$ FLIR so I could see if my exhaust got hot. I guess I could touch it, though, right?
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Old 09-27-2015, 12:31 AM   #53
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For those of us...
Thanks for all your help in this thread. Valuable information added! I suggest you put on your boots and go find your most local rock and kick it incessantly!
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Old 09-27-2015, 12:32 AM   #54
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I'm trying to find the rod bolt thread... what year was that....
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Old 09-27-2015, 12:34 AM   #55
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I'm trying to find the rod bolt thread... what year was that....
gotta reach back a while for that one ;)
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Old 09-27-2015, 12:35 AM   #56
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I think that was circa Corona03
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Old 09-27-2015, 12:37 AM   #57
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i would check the the coil wire sounds like it could be randomly grounding out on something . had this happen on a few cars in the past. could try and close the gap on the plugs too.
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Old 09-27-2015, 12:41 AM   #58
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ohcrap back on topic. Spraying water to plug wires at night would illuminate shorts to ground.
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Old 09-27-2015, 12:41 AM   #59
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Thanks for all your help in this thread. Valuable information added! I suggest you put on your boots and go find your most local rock and kick it incessantly!
Sorry, I didn't mean to dilute your inane bull**** with MY inane bull****. You should flash your ASE certs, maybe it'll get you some respect around here amongst us plebs.
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Old 09-27-2015, 12:53 AM   #60
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Look, I don't think I am any better than the next man. YOU were the one that resorted to name calling.

If my format of discussing advanced automotive concepts comes off to you as elitist and offends you, I strongly urge you to put me on your ignore list.
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Old 09-27-2015, 12:58 AM   #61
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Look, I don't think I am any better than the next man. YOU were the one that resorted to name calling.

If my format of discussing advanced automotive concepts comes off to you as elitist and offends you, I strongly urge you to put me on your ignore list.

I didn't once call you a name, I did, however, call you out on your nonsense. Elitist or not, your ability to have your theories challenged does not scale with how much education you have, unfortunately for you. You engaged, I engaged, you were condescending, I was condescending, I wasn't offended. Anyways.


Hit it with a hammer until it runs right.
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Old 09-27-2015, 01:04 AM   #62
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Which theory did you challenge?
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Old 09-27-2015, 01:09 AM   #63
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I refuse to dignify that.
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Old 09-27-2015, 01:40 AM   #64
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If my format of discussing advanced automotive concepts
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I was instructed, by software, to test a MAF using the labscope.
Posting pictures of what a snap-on scan tool told you to do is quite advanced indeed. Turning ordinary people into expert diagnosticians $14k at a time.
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Old 09-27-2015, 09:37 AM   #65
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Are you clowns done yet? The OP came in here looking for some help with a problem and many chimed in with useful information. But, as this community has become really good at, it had degraded into dick swinging contest. I don't really care who started it, keep it on track. This is a really good example of why many of our more knowledgeable members rarely visit this place anymore...
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Old 09-27-2015, 09:42 AM   #66
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This is a really good example of why many of our more knowledgeable members rarely visit this place anymore...
You are another example. Keep that in mind.
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Old 09-27-2015, 09:47 AM   #67
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$100 says if you put the injectors and amm back to stock it will run perfectly. But what do I know I only battled the exact same problems.
The AMM was always stock and I've done as you and others suggested. Isn't that the point? I was amused as this thread went skidding into the ditch. If I could have found this information (instead of lots of "it's not running right, and I don't have any information but my butt dyno tells me it's off.") then I wouldn't have bothered asking. In fact, I search and read a lot. The fact that this information is not parsed out of the forum and put somewhere useful is a shame. There is a massive database of useful information here - it just gets really cluttered up with noise.

To whoever commented about this being 10 years ago - I'm not taking it personally - but for me this is new and I'm learning. We don't all have the same entry points to this particular dance. It's a good thing I've been on this forum for almost a decade and know how it rolls and who to listen too.

We all need a hand every once in a while.

If the Mods want to clean up this mess - it may be useful for future reference.
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Old 09-27-2015, 09:52 AM   #68
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Fwiw my car behaved similarly when I was having massive spark blowout. 1st and 2nd would usually roll through without trouble but in 3rd and 4th it was like hitting a wall around 4500rpm. A set of new plugs and a tighter gap cleared it up for me.
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Old 09-27-2015, 10:29 AM   #69
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Are you clowns done yet? The OP came in here looking for some help with a problem and many chimed in with useful information. But, as this community has become really good at, it had degraded into dick swinging contest. I don't really care who started it, keep it on track. This is a really good example of why many of our more knowledgeable members rarely visit this place anymore...
At least the OP seems like he got his car running a lot better based on the advice I gave him pretty soon in the thread. Looked like around post 15. Yeah, I stirred the pot really well shortly thereafter with a remark a certain member and, oh yes, the poo flinging began.

It seems like many people just try to copy the guys who have made a cars go fast without really knowing what they are doing. I challenge people to develop their automotive skills using advanced tools and advanced education instead of just trying to imitate people on the interweb.

I realize I am going against the tide of imitators and I expect and accept the friction, but I strongly urge the average memeber here start to refine their skills beyond the multimeter.

Last edited by ZVOLV; 09-27-2015 at 10:35 AM..
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Old 09-27-2015, 10:43 AM   #70
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I do not agree with this statement. Scopes see waveforms and have precision that multimeters can never get near.
I wasn't going to touch this thread, but I had to comment on this.

A multimeter (in voltage mode) measures voltage. A scope measures voltage over time. A multi-meter (even a cheap one) will have generally in excess of 12 bits of resolution +/- 2048 counts, and a scope will mostly have 8 (256) with a real resolution of 7 (128)*. Even the cheapest Chinese multi-meter will have a precision that would cause most scopes to go green with envy. They are completely different tools used for completely different purposes. Like a screwdriver and a chisel, there can be some crossover when in the hands of the un-practiced, but it's not to be recommended.

Glad the OP got it sorted.

* There are some readily available 12 bit scopes but they are a bit more expensive than your average scope (car/boat and most light aircraft).

Can we please go back to recommending diagnostics with a multi-meter? A) it's all you need to fix an LHx.x volvo. B) They are available cheaply anywhere. C) it's all you need to fix an LHx.x volvo.
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Old 09-27-2015, 10:50 AM   #71
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Can we please go back to recommending diagnostics with a multi-meter? A) it's all you need to fix an LHx.x volvo. B) They are available cheaply anywhere. C) it's all you need to fix an LHx.x volvo.
This is exactly what it comes down to. Anyone who suggests you need a tool beyond a multi meter to diagnose an electrical issue with LH has no sense working on cars.
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Old 09-27-2015, 10:57 AM   #72
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Glad the OP got it sorted.

* There are some readily available 12 bit scopes but they are a bit more expensive than your average scope (car/boat and most light aircraft).

Can we please go back to recommending diagnostics with a multi-meter? A) it's all you need to fix an LHx.x volvo. B) They are available cheaply anywhere. C) it's all you need to fix an LHx.x volvo.
Thanks - the OP is pretty happy that this may be done as well. I was advised by others via PM regarding diagnosing LH using a MM. Early in the discussion (funny, their prediction was this thread was going to go pear-shaped.).

Off to weld in another sensor bung so I can put my wideband on and see if these injectors are safe. I'll report back when I get more data.
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Old 09-27-2015, 10:59 AM   #73
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Advanced minds use advanced tools. Simple minds use simple words.

I am not going to let a few bad apples discourage me. The ignore list works just fine!

I will continue to help members as much as I can and try to keep the attitude to a minimum.
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Old 09-27-2015, 11:29 AM   #74
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At least the OP seems like he got his car running a lot better based on the advice I gave him pretty soon in the thread. Looked like around post 15. Yeah, I stirred the pot really well shortly thereafter with a remark a certain member and, oh yes, the poo flinging began.

It seems like many people just try to copy the guys who have made a cars go fast without really knowing what they are doing. I challenge people to develop their automotive skills using advanced tools and advanced education instead of just trying to imitate people on the interweb.

I realize I am going against the tide of imitators and I expect and accept the friction, but I strongly urge the average memeber here start to refine their skills beyond the multimeter.
dude you're a toolbag of the highest order, and apparently functionally retarded as well. Post #4 (your first post in the thread) : look at my boss's scope!

We have post #8 where I suggested a boost leak test after resetting the LH ecu (something nick hinted at in his first post but didn't come right out and say--that's that whole been there done that, if you read and cogitate what was actually posted you gain more insight as to what's going on than "derp reset ecu derp")

post #15 is where you should have bowed out of the thread, as you contributed nothing at all past that point. "I have no idea what's going on with your car, and I'm discarding what little information is available"

This is why I laugh at ASE certs. All the certs in the world don't actually help you to understand what's going on. LH 2.4 is simple. It's old school. getting a grasp on the basics and even some of the slightly higher functions is a matter of spending an hour or two reading up about it. Dirty filthy rich? Drives ok most of the time? Could be a maf but I'd look first at boost leaks and the owner's choices in regards to components. In this case, we have a basic setup with massive injectors (which, for some reason, is the most TB thing ever. I need 400hp worth of fuel injector to make 230hp). It doesn't take much to figure out what's going on, and it surely doesn't require a scope.

Again, twit, right tool for the right job. You don't take cylinder heads off to diagnose a leaking radiator just because you can.
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Old 09-27-2015, 11:43 AM   #75
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I honestly have no clue what is going on with your car and have "disregarded" your dyno graphs. Something is obviously wrong. Fix core issue.

Intermittent issues suggest to me that you possibly have a confused computer due to mechanical issues, but I could be wrong.
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At least the OP seems like he got his car running a lot better based on the advice I gave him pretty soon in the thread. Looked like around post 15. Yeah, I stirred the pot really well shortly thereafter with a remark a certain member and, oh yes, the poo flinging began.
Shouldn't you be passed out in a driveway somewhere?
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