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Old 08-16-2010, 12:40 PM   #26
stick70
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I had the same deal. I ended up cutting up the spot welds on the seat pan and pulled it up and cut out the rust to weld in new panels of sheet. Wasnt overly difficult, just alot of work.
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Old 08-16-2010, 01:30 PM   #27
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I'm not that worried about it.
But, as you said it will be some work.

My wife's response when I told her there were holes in the floor was: "you can just weld those up, don't you want to put a roll cage in it anyway?"
Yes, yes I do.
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Old 08-16-2010, 01:47 PM   #28
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just bought an 84 242 dl m46- have the same concern behind driver's seat. it can be fixed in a weekend (if i can find one). killer ride, bud.
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Old 08-17-2010, 03:30 AM   #29
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Looks good so far!
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Old 08-18-2010, 11:42 PM   #30
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I started digging through the boxes full of parts that have been sitting inside the 242 for the past 3 years and found some good stuff.

A 139 module that I knew I had and a distributor that I completely forgot about.
One less thing to buy I guess


A billet fuel rail,
Going to try and mount it on the head and use the K-jet holes with a B21F intake manifold if I can find the throttle body and stuff I need.
If not I'll probably use the 940(?) manifold in the pic.


The Innovate LC1, I've got a brand new sensor in one of the boxes somewhere.


A dirty HKS BOV for that mad JDM sound.


And a good ol resistor pack.
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Old 08-19-2010, 11:33 AM   #31
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Progress!!!!
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93 245 m47 300k miles, one owner, zero compression
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Old 08-23-2010, 08:53 AM   #32
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I have some nice seats that my sister bought me for a birthday present('cause she's cool like that) but they were out of a 245 so they don't flip forward the way the 242 seats are supposed to.
I've never taken one of these seats apart but it can't be that much trouble to swap over the exterior right?
I should be able to cut a hole for the back release without too much trouble

They are also brown instead of black.
Maybe I need to break out my sewing machine skills and re-upholster these things, I've got a beefy old sears kenmore sewing machine that should be able to handle upholstery type stuff.

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Old 09-07-2010, 12:12 PM   #33
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I swapped out the front springs the other day.

The decarbon struts were still stiff to compress and would extend fully on their own.


I cut down a coleman racing threaded sleeve and let it rest on the stock spring seat.
With the kaplhenke camber plate and upper spring seat up top and the threaded lower seat as low as it would go the car sat at the same height as stock with the 10" 250# springs.


I want more travel than this setup will give me so I guess I'll be grinding off the stock spring seats and welding a new stop ring on and getting some longer (and probably stiffer) springs as well as having the struts rebuilt.
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Old 10-04-2010, 05:01 PM   #34
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I picked up an NA 850 Throttle Body two weeks ago while I was down in ATL.


Still working on figuring out what I'm going to do with this,


And a shot of the workspace,
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Old 10-04-2010, 05:27 PM   #35
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Nice to see you are getting it done.
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Old 10-04-2010, 05:46 PM   #36
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bring it to SE next year!
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Old 10-04-2010, 05:57 PM   #37
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bring it to SE next year!
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Old 10-11-2010, 12:10 PM   #38
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I pulled out some more wiring yesterday.
No more ancient tape deck or melted fuel pump relay wiring.


I pulled the old dizzy out and swapped in the LH dizzy for the Megasquirt stuff.


A 3rd engine mount is in works.
Thanks to Mike Towery for the bracket.
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Old 10-11-2010, 05:15 PM   #39
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mens classic fit TURBO
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Old 10-12-2010, 01:34 PM   #40
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My wife's response when I told her there were holes in the floor was: "you can just weld those up, don't you want to put a roll cage in it anyway?"
Yes, yes I do.[/QUOTE]


Thats a good wife.
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Old 10-13-2010, 09:56 AM   #41
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Thats a good wife.

Time to start work on the Megasquirt wiring.
I've got a box full of wiring bits, including a 740 harness of some sort that I may pull wire and connectors from.

I cleaned up the 850 throttle body with some lemon softscrub so it smells nice and fresh and I can pick it up without getting my hands dirty.
It was the only 850/960 throttle body at the junk yard and it didn't have a Throttle Position Sensor so I'm going to try using this old Nissan TPS.


I had a plug that would fit on the tps but the wires were rotted out.


The plug only had two wires in it as well.


I had some spare fuel injector pigtails so I swapped the leads out of those into my TPS plug.


Lookin better.


Next up was the three wire plug for the dizzy.


The plastic sheath and the rubber boot had done their job and the wire was ok but the outside was kind of dirty so I cleaned it up a little.
In this picture you can see how the pin numbers for the plug hide under the rubber boot.
Black = Ground, Yellow = Signal output, Green = 12volt in.
I cut the green wire short because I was going to splice in a 10ohm resistor but I didn't have any of the right value, time for a trip to radio shack.


Because the Megasquirt I'm using is a MS1 V2.2 board set up for MSnS or something I have to connect a resistor from 12v(pin 28 I guess) to the tach input(pin 24).
I decided to just do this on the bottom of the relay board going from the Pin24 lead on the phoenix terminal strip to the switched 12v side of the main relay.
I think this should work
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Old 10-13-2010, 11:01 AM   #42
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I was just kindly informed by nic 242GT that the plug I made for the TPS is only an on off switch.
The other plug hanging out the side is the variable TPS that I want to use.
Time for more wiring.
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Old 10-20-2010, 05:21 PM   #43
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Cleaned out the HKS BOV, it still had dirt in it from rolling into the side of the highway down in GA 4 years ago.
The recessed cap screws that hold the outer piece on were kind of rusted and the threads were kinda chewed up looking so I got some new M3 x .50 at Lowes.
The only M3's they had were pan head slotted and the heads were too big so I chucked them into the multi axis mini mill and turned them down until they would fit.

I forgot to take pictures.

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Old 10-20-2010, 05:43 PM   #44
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nice. i ran a 1k ohm resistor + 12v pullup into the dizzy signal line, that's apparently how all the volvo hall sensors like to work.
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Old 10-21-2010, 07:39 AM   #45
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This sounds very familiar to me.
I must have done it on the last one and forgotten about it.
I was wondering why I had a pack of 1kohm sitting around.

The things I have forgotten...
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Old 08-05-2013, 09:24 PM   #46
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Looking back at this thread to try and remember what it is I've already done.


Still too much that needs to be done.
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:26 AM   #47
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This car now resides in my driveway. JPB and I brokered a trade advantageous to us both.

The car has been sitting a long time, and needs a bit of TLC. That TLC will involve removing the B21 and a lot of the extraneous wiring, and installing a 4.8 GM lump. Should be fun.
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My Project (It's a 1979 244DL...sort of.)
K-Jet to Megasquirt Article

The Departed: 1981 245, 1983 245 Turbo, 1983 244 Turbo, 1983 242 Turbo, 1984 244, 1985 245 Turbo, 1989 244, 1989 765, 1990 245 Turbo, 1991 244, 1992 245, 1997 855
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Old 10-08-2015, 02:13 PM   #48
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Gonna pull the motor and transmission this weekend and donate them to another local Tbricker who has use for a B21. I'm keeping a little bit off of it, but not much.

The interior is pretty rough, so it'll be completely stripped. If anyone needs stock B21FT parts, let me know.

Probably going to use the coilover stuff on my '79, and swap on some cut springs onto this car. It's gonna go straight at a brisk pace. I'm not too concerned with turning this one.
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Old 10-08-2015, 02:28 PM   #49
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You might want to buy another threaded sleeve since the one on the car is kind of hacked up.

Looking forward to seeing where this goes.
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Old 10-08-2015, 02:45 PM   #50
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Quote:
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You might want to buy another threaded sleeve since the one on the car is kind of hacked up.

Looking forward to seeing where this goes.
Should be picking up my 4.8 from a friend's shop either today or tomorrow. I have a "universal" GM LS mount kit I hope will sorta work. Should be able to bolt it to the motor, tack weld the mounts to the crossmember, pull the motor, and finish welding.

Haven't found a trans yet, but TH400s are plentiful and cheap. I'm torn between using the MS1 that came with the car to run everything or buying a Microsquirt and going that route. It's only like $350 for the Microsquirt, and I think it's probably worth it in the long run to go that route...not that Micro is exactly groundbreaking, but putting the MS1 on a boosted V8 would just be silly.
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