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'82 245 No Start/Fuel Issue

In my last visit to my favorite auto parts store I noticed that at least one brand of brake cleaner advertised that it was now environmentally friendly in that it was not flammable.
 
So i took my starting spray and sprayed it on the accordion hose (this was to see if it would leak in and start it im assuming), nothing.

I also just pulsed spray into the intake again while it was running, it ran fine and didnt sound like it had any hiccups (but i dont really know what to listen exactly for).

I checked the connection on the MAF, seemed a little dirty so i cleaned it just in case with an electronics cleaner (ive used it on amps and kettles before). That didnt change anything.

And i also took another listen to the fuel pump relay, it did click while cranking. (Would this mean somethings not energizing it until i crank? is that normal?)

I tried finding replacement fuel pumps & filters, i found the main pump & filter easily, but couldnt find an in-tank one at all. Also would i need to change hose clamps, or other little bits that dont come with the pump?


EDIT: also i recently asked my dad why it didnt pass smog last time we sent it in, he said the tests had too much NOx, and also that he changed the MAF tuning screw, but this was a couple years ago, so before the no-start,
 
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The intake fuel pump should come with 2 new clamps and one hose. I recently purchased one and it came with those parts.
 
so ill be changing the fuel bits soon, but before i buy them i had a question. If i was planning on change it from LH1.0 to LH2.2, or even +T it as long term plans, should i get bigger fuel pumps now since im already replacing them, or just stick with what fit originally? would stronger fuel pumps cause any pressure issues if im not using the extra fuel they supply yet?

i had these two in mind.
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-61944-Universal-Inline-Fuel/dp/B003WL73OK
https://www.amazon.com/WALBRO-255LPH-PRESSURE-GSS342-Authentic/dp/B0098MC3GU
 
No not yet, im fairly certain its bad fuel pumps. It worked off starting fluid, so i looked more into the fuel system. The fuel pump relay energizes when i crank, so its not burnt. The main fuel pump is getting 12 V even when I bypass the fuel relay, but it only spins once I tap it with a rubber mallet. If I tap it with a rubber mallet, get it spinning for a bit, and crank, it'll start up fine, but will stall after a couple seconds once the pump stops spinning again. I also couldn't hear the in-tank pump when i put my ear in the gas filler neck.

The fuel pump connections were also falling apart in my hands, so i dont thinks it been changed recently, possibly ever.
 
Replace fuel pump fuse - regardless of what it looks like - and clean the terminals.

At least half of 240 no starts are the result of that fuse.

Costs nothing and it saves you the hassle of the rest of the stuff if that was the issue.
 
Replace fuel pump fuse - regardless of what it looks like - and clean the terminals.

At least half of 240 no starts are the result of that fuse.

Costs nothing and it saves you the hassle of the rest of the stuff if that was the issue.

*Sorry missed 12v at pump. :wave:
 
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