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Warmed-over B20

vwbusman66

vwbusman66

Stößelstange über alles
Joined
Oct 12, 2016
Location
SE MI
Now that I am off of the stupid swap train (again), I am planning to hop up the B20B in my 145. At the moment, the engine is bone stock with dual SU HIF 6's.

My plans are:
Very mild port/exhaust polish up on a B20E head (bigger valves than a B20B head?)
VP autoparts D cam and fresh lifters
Most likely a thinner head gasket (based on piston height)
MAYBE IPD header and better exhaust

The question is, do I/can I keep the HIF 6's or would a Weber 38/38 DGAS be a better option. I already have a Weber manifold and linkage, so a conversion wouldn't be horribly expensive. It's my understanding the HIF's do flow fairly well, and I do like the fact I know how to tune them.
 
Weber 45s or keep the hif
IPd headers suck now
Get a used D cam.
Get a efi head and shave it. Plenty of valve in those

/thread

Or you know piss what what you got, then upgrade as necessary
 
Jack said:
Weber 45s or keep the hif
IPd headers suck now
Get a used D cam.
Get a efi

/thread

Or you know piss what what you got, then upgrade as necessary
Click to expand...
Is the IPD header worse than a stock manifold?
[/post]
 
vwbusman66 said:
Is the IPD header worse than a stock manifold?
[/post]
Click to expand...

They are thin walled.

There’s a few stock ones. Some flow better than others. 2.5 inch exhaust with one muffler will do the trick.

Just read what’s been done. There’s plenty of info on these engines. You won’t make crazy power but idk what you’re doing with your car (I don’t think you do either)
 
I'd have to characterize it as 'worse'. Since the stock ones will outlast those thin crappy 'Patriot' headers IPD sells by a few decades. And the 4:1 design of those headers isn't really going to help a mild street engine at all. The better aftermarket headers are 4:2:1... just like the stock headers and double downpipes.

Get a D grind from anyone - it's a stock grind. No point in paying 'vintage car restoration part' prices on it if you can get it at 'old car replacement part' prices.

Agree with Jack - keep the HIF's (possibly with different needles if your other mods add up to much) vs. the DGV crapola. Although who knows, maybe the 38/38 is not as worthless as the usual DGV carbs sold? But really, the awesomesauce lies with the DCOE's. Those make awesome noises and awesome power (if paired with suitable supporting mods).

Basically, you're getting the car to around 130-ish HP with those mods. Assuming you have a manual trans. If you have the (dreaded lump) BW35 automatic, you might not want the D cam. It will make most of its added power in the top half of the rpm range, and the BW35 isn't very conducive to utilizing it.
 
reason why everyone went downdraft webbers is they were cheaper than getting a set of originals rebuilt for a long time. When needed a rebuilt they were already 20+ year old cars and people wouldn't dump monies into them
 
And there aren't many moving parts in an SU, but one of the few is that throttle shaft running on the bare aluminum carb body. It wears (possibly aggravated by the lack of lead in modern fuel?) and causes leaks, then you can't tune them, argh swap.

Same thing happened to lots of D-Jet cars. Old school mechanics were confused by the electrical injection, they'd mess with it trying to work around something like a bad sensor, get it to run horribly, then swap a crappy DGV onto it to 'fix' it.

I had a Patriot header on my PV for a couple of years. Just because the old header cracked after 10 years of use, and I happened to see this thing for sale on Amazon for something like $70 shipped. *Really* cheap. Well, it was *really* crappy too. The 4:1 collector I got actually looked better than the abrupt looking collector show in the pictures, but the runners at the head were horrible. Very small, and with lumpy welding on the inside - tacking the tubes onto the flange. Why didn't they weld the outside? Dunno, I did a litttle bit of grindingon them to take off the worst of the blobby welds. Then the pipes started to crack free from the flange only a couple of years later (65 - 6K miles), although it might have lasted longer if I'd just left it alone.

After that I spent a little more money and got a super sweet 4:2:1 header from KGTrimning. Which is properly made, has larger runners suited to a modified engine, heavier metal in the tubing, well worth the extra money (IMO). Looking at my old emails, it was about $340 total, including shipping.
 
Grab the dual ?67 manifold and a stock downpipe. Any exhaust from 2-2.5? will be fine. F heads are usually cheap and you can mill quite a bit off of them to get the compression up around 9.5-10:1.
 
Post#12 for me to say +T with a 13c. You can dump $1000s into an engine and a b20+T half assed is still faster

I'm also that guy that dumped 1000s into my kjet b20
 
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