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ISO Aftermarket Axles for 240

D

dkrause

Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2012
We have problems with the hub flanges cracking and breaking on the stock rear axles of our road racing 240, Has anyone had custom axles built by Moser, Dutchman etc.? Looking for recommendations.

I cannot consider an complete rear end change out at this time.
 
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dkrause said:
We have problems with the hub flanges cracking and breaking on the stock rear axles of our road racing 240, Has anyone had custom axles built by Moser, Dutchman etc.? Looking for recommendations.

I cannot consider an complete rear end change out at this time.
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Something seems odd, that is a pretty unusual failure for these. Are you having somebody body rubbing interference?
 
We have no rub issues, but we have had 1 catastrophic failure and 2 more with cracks identified by dye pen testing that I do annually after the major failure. We race about 5000 miles a year, it is defiantly a fatigue failure.

I have also reached out to the Vintage Volvo racing community and was told YES this is a common problem.

I am working with an USA axle vendor now and we should have a solution shortly, I will post details once it is verified.
 
dkrause said:
We have no rub issues, but we have had 1 catastrophic failure and 2 more with cracks identified by dye pen testing that I do annually after the major failure. We race about 5000 miles a year, it is defiantly a fatigue failure.
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I tried to find the video of the catastrophic failure to post here, but I can't find it outside of facebook.

Jordan
 
dkrause said:
We have no rub issues, but we have had 1 catastrophic failure and 2 more with cracks identified by dye pen testing that I do annually after the major failure. We race about 5000 miles a year, it is defiantly a fatigue failure.

I have also reached out to the Vintage Volvo racing community and was told YES this is a common problem.

I am working with an USA axle vendor now and we should have a solution shortly, I will post details once it is verified.
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Interesting, I have never heard of that before. I suppose I could start offering new replacements.
 
Moser Engineering is in my town in Indiana and my cousin's son works for their drag racing team. You want me to check?
 
lummert ; I have been in contact with Moser and they actually have done some axles for a friend who races a 142, thanks for the offer, but I am good now,

blkaplan ; Yes a full float is the optimum way to go, I do plan to do a conversion to another axle housing next winter.
 
You know I'm going to ask it, but: if you do, please consider offering them with 48t ABS tone rings. 8)
 
DrZiplok said:
You know I'm going to ask it, but: if you do, please consider offering them with 48t ABS tone rings. 8)
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That is part of the differential.

Have you tried a set of cryogenically hardened axles? That may be an affordable option to try. I've used rotors with this treatment and they lasted longer than any rotors I've ever used.
 
blkaplan said:
From your experience where would be the best place to have the rings/
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Our conversion discarded the parking brake and fit the reluctor ring over the machined section of axle that normally passes between the shoes.

This is obviously not OK for any vehicle that wants to retain the stock parking brake. We looked at a few other options, e.g. cutting notches in the outside of the parking brake drum, cutting a hole in the axle tube & welding in a bung, etc. but none of them was simpler than this.

I was being a bit facetious; TBH I think that if there's a market for this, having rings available as an add-on and making sure that they will sit in a sensible place is all that's required. I'd be happy to share more detail shots if that'd be any use.

dl242gt said:
That is part of the differential.
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Not if you want to convert to 4-channel ABS. 8)
 
Ok what about mounting a sensor from the inside of the brake backing plate? Then you could machine the inner part of the rotor to have the trigger teeth. Rotor and sensor are easily replaced if damaged and you can keep the ebrake. A VR sensor like the LH2.4 diff sensor or engine speed sensor might work?
 
dl242gt said:
Ok what about mounting a sensor from the inside of the brake backing plate? Then you could machine the inner part of the rotor to have the trigger teeth. Rotor and sensor are easily replaced if damaged and you can keep the ebrake. A VR sensor like the LH2.4 diff sensor or engine speed sensor might work?
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Find/make slotted rotors with 48 slots?
 
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