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Old 04-26-2018, 11:53 AM   #26
EivlEvo
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No clue, LH is odd and when mixing and matching parts you can get odd issues. Plus we are all using used AMMs.

Let it learn and see how it goes but always be aware of possible issues.
Yeah no doubt... I;m always curious to how the inner workings of a million year old computer works lol. I'm not trying to disregard your suggestions, they're well pointed. I'm going to follow the flow chart for right now and see if it learns properly. If I can't get to where I need to... then I'll begin looking around with the sprays and the smoke and such.
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Old 04-26-2018, 06:26 PM   #27
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So... If I unplug my iac. It idles fine. 2 questions...
1. Where does this device ground? Is it by chance one of these possibly stressed wires on the fuel rail?
2. Should I do exactly what I've said I'd do and "trust the system", or unplug the gd thing? (I'm leaning towards cleaning tbh, but... Also how can I test it's effectiveness?)
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Old 04-26-2018, 09:30 PM   #28
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I ran my 744 without an iac and it ran fine for years. My current 945 still has everything with the 65lb and 012 and it runs fine also. So whatever you want to do just make sure the basics are working ha.
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Old 04-28-2018, 07:34 PM   #29
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So today I yanked the IACV and cleaned it thoroughly and then lubed it all up. Plugged it all back in and the idle is still garbage. If I pinch the hose connected to the IAC and pre-TB I can get the idle to come down.

I pulled the connector for the IACV and it threw a CEL obv, but the idle was much more reasonable... maybe about 1100 and consistent. The AFRs though swayed a lot between 13 and 15 while just idling in a pretty consistent game of chase/tag.

I propane tested for vac leaks as well as a BLT and both were negative. I didn't have time to check with smoke.

I'm getting no codes with everything connected properly. What other options do I have here? O2 sensor is about a year old...

Knock sensor? ECT sensor? Would these throw codes in LH 2.4? Wouldn't they have manifested themselves in my 007 and orange tops setup?
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Old 04-28-2018, 07:40 PM   #30
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Also... does anybody know what the screw (I assume adjustment) ON the IACV does? Mine is like... hot glued over but if this adjusts something useful... now is a great time to know.
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Old 04-29-2018, 08:15 PM   #31
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Ok squad. I went through everything this weekend. What I found was that my car was unable to run if I pinched the iac hose shut. This led me to the throttle plate idle specs and I found that this was eeeeevvver so slightly out. Adjusted this with the felt gauge. Started it up and...

Same problem.

I decided to try my old amm but in my haste, I hooked up my 2.2 amm aaaaand... Same thing. Surprised the car ran though.

After all of this, I ended up here... prior to adjusting my throttle plate, the car would not run with the iac hose pinched completely closed. At all. Post adjustment, it idles fine with the hose pinched off completely. WARMED UP. At cold it's about 500rpm... needs a little nudge to wake itself up.

The iac tested within spec (resistance) and actuated with voltage. I didn't feel it vibrating when the engine was running but like, trying to feel something vibrate on a red block is impossible. Everything vibrates.

Where does this leave me? Is my iac functional but too slow?

Last edited by EivlEvo; 04-30-2018 at 12:58 PM..
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Old 04-30-2018, 12:15 PM   #32
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LH 24 has a test function that allows you to check (hear) the injectors clicking, the iac clicking, and the cold start injector (if equipped). I'd run that test and make sure everything is clicking as it should be.
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Old 04-30-2018, 12:58 PM   #33
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LH 24 has a test function that allows you to check (hear) the injectors clicking, the iac clicking, and the cold start injector (if equipped). I'd run that test and make sure everything is clicking as it should be.
I did and it did/was. The thing is... this really presents as a vac leak and despite the IACV testing completely fine, I STILL suspect it. Just because the resistance and voltage are all good doesn't mean it's o-ring hasn't blown itself up???

Otherwise I'm at a loss. I know I'm still in the early "learning" phase... but with the weather warmed up, sitting in stop and go and revving to 2k+ RPM every 2 seconds is taxing my cooling system. And I'm on the 3 row with tropical fan...

Anyway... flushed/cleaned the coolant this weekend as well.

I'm still open to other suggestions while I drive around with the car revving.
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Old 04-30-2018, 03:35 PM   #34
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If the idle is hunting from 1-2k rpm when stopped you have a leak and need to pressure test. That or maybe something like the TPS isn't set right. If when the iac is blocked the issue goes away it sure sounds like something like the iac or iac hose is at fault.
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Old 04-30-2018, 03:45 PM   #35
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If the idle is hunting from 1-2k rpm when stopped you have a leak and need to pressure test. That or maybe something like the TPS isn't set right. If when the iac is blocked the issue goes away it sure sounds like something like the iac or iac hose is at fault.
Haha... I just sent you a PM.

Yeah man... something is up. I've got a new IACV heading in tomorrow so we'll see if that settles it.

It passed the BLT with no issues. Even with soapy water BUT... I suppose I could just BLT the IACV itself which I did NOT do... hmmm.
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Old 05-01-2018, 08:25 PM   #36
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It's a split hose on the manifold side of the iacv. Of course it was this. I have no idea why I ever would've thought it WASN'T this. But... That hose is like the most impossible one to replicate with auto store parts. But... It's fixed. I'm an idiot.
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Old 05-05-2018, 06:26 PM   #37
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Well... good news. FCP shipped me the wrong parts so I made a hose up out of some PEX 90 degree elbows and vac hose.

The revving is back but this time it's more of a high idle (~1600rpm) and then it chops out, saves itself and comes back up.

I reset the ECU again and my AFRs are like 11s? WTH is going on man????
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Old 05-05-2018, 06:58 PM   #38
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On a reset ECU expect idle and cruise afr's to be rich for the first or second start, once you get one full cold start cycle in it afr's should be correct.

Sure sound like you have a vac leak which will cause a ton of issues.
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Old 05-05-2018, 07:15 PM   #39
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On a reset ECU expect idle and cruise afr's to be rich for the first or second start, once you get one full cold start cycle in it afr's should be correct.

Sure sound like you have a vac leak which will cause a ton of issues.
Yeah I'm working on it. It's not the vac leak style revving so it might be just the ECU squaring up.

Oddly I had unplugged an injector to get my iacv hose into position on the intake manifold. I forgot about it and started it up and it's idle was perfect. Aside from the miss which I thought was just my cam. Anyway. Plugged it in. Reset. Back to high idle.
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Old 05-06-2018, 07:45 PM   #40
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This is coming and going now which is leading me to believe it's more LH trying to sort things out than a vac leak... but that's me being optimistic.

Anybody want to grace me with new vac leak methods? When I did the smoke and also the propane I wasn't able to find anything...
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Old 05-06-2018, 08:05 PM   #41
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Boost leak test with a compressor?
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Old 05-06-2018, 09:36 PM   #42
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Boost leak test with a compressor?
Came up clean. Soapy water included.
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Old 05-06-2018, 11:24 PM   #43
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Is it possible I'm dealing with a speed sensor issue?

Anyone know how to test such things? I would assume that my speedo would stop working but... it SEEMS like it works fine.
This thread made me think about it.
https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=275547

The only other wild card I can think of is that my coolant gauge hasn't ever worked. The other day in traffic (stop and go) and temps in the 80s with my car revving itself constantly it started smelling pretty hot. As I had just pulled my old motor (lh 2.2 (87 244)) I grabbed the coolant gauge sensor (not the ECT sensor) from that motor and popped it into my 93 245 as I thought they were compatible? Maybe I yutzed something here?
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Old 05-06-2018, 11:38 PM   #44
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Current symptoms are erratic idle.
Starts up every time no issue.
Stalls on pressing clutch in during decel sometimes. Other times it'll catch itself.
Sometimes it will idle dead perfect ~800 and other times it will idle at between 1500 and 2000 hang there for 3 or 4 seconds and then drop down to 500 before bouncing right back up. This is opposed to what it was doing before where it would just vac leak idle constantly back and forth from ~1k to ~2k+ with no change in rhythm.

Car drives fine. Popped a couple of fireballs yesterday on the way to the grocery store (I have side exit...)

I'm getting no CELs and no codes. IACV is cleaned and lubed (also swapped to a new Bosch unit for testing. Same results) I've tested all the usual culprits sensor wise and everything has come up clean. I've looked and looked and looked for vac leaks. I haven't come up with any (though ORIGINALLY when I made this thread the IACV hose was cracked on the IM side. This didn't show in my smoke OR boost leak tests for some reason...)
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Old 05-07-2018, 10:31 AM   #45
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Have you checked and cleaned the MAF? It was a known working good one right? When I had a bad MAF on my car, It wouldn't idle, and as soon as I unplugged it the car would idle right away, but any throttle input and it would fall on its face.

The idle function in LH24 is super basic, and there is only a couple things that can really muck with it.

Betcha its a bad maf, unplug it, and fire up the car and report back.
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Old 05-07-2018, 03:41 PM   #46
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So the amm is known good in so much as I plugged it in on my old tune with the new injectors and everything seemed fine. This test is what prompted me to do the battery/ECU reset and then my issues went crazy.

It's not showing any amm codes... Or any for that matter. If I unplug it while the car is running, it dies.

I was unsure of how to test the 012 amm though so I haven't checked it's resistances or anything other than what I posted here.

Thoughts? My understanding was if I unplugged it while running and the car didn't straighten out, it's not the amm.
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Old 05-07-2018, 03:45 PM   #47
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What about putting my stock amm back in? I'm under the assumption that the stock amm isn't able to handle idle with 577cc/min injectors?
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Old 05-07-2018, 04:00 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EivlEvo View Post
So the amm is known good in so much as I plugged it in on my old tune with the new injectors and everything seemed fine. This test is what prompted me to do the battery/ECU reset and then my issues went crazy.

It's not showing any amm codes... Or any for that matter. If I unplug it while the car is running, it dies.

I was unsure of how to test the 012 amm though so I haven't checked it's resistances or anything other than what I posted here.

Thoughts? My understanding was if I unplugged it while running and the car didn't straighten out, it's not the amm.
The correct AMM for 2.4 should be 016, assuming that is what you had on there, I would go back to the first injectors and a 016 AMM and see if that cures what ails.

The correct response from a functioning AMM when you test (it's a bad test, and the reason why so many people have trouble with LH 2.4 is there isn't really a good way to test the AMM) is for the car to drop idle a bit when unplugged, and die as soon as the throttle is touched.

My car wouldn't idle until I unplugged the MAF, so I knew something wasn't right with it.

So something I have not done a ton of research on, But I am not sure the resistance of your new injector is correct for the ECU. I thought the resistance on an injector was in the 16 ohm range, and your 55lbs are 12.2? Not sure if that could cause an erratic idle, but If they are not closing all the way for some reason, that would make the idle suck, and the car would try to compensate?

Purely conjecture until someone way smarter than I chimes in.
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Old 05-07-2018, 04:16 PM   #49
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Ah... Now THIS IS interesting to me... Because you see I'm pretty dumb and essentially thought high imp was high imp but now... Hmm...
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Old 05-08-2018, 12:45 PM   #50
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Anybody have any info on impedance? I searched but couldn't come up with any numbers for the highs.

The car is definitely learning rn which leads me back to what Sbaabs (iirc) was saying about revving during the learning. I'm only getting some minor revving now, it's seeming like it's trying to hunt to get to the correct idle.

The car does stall quite a bit on clutch in decel. It will usually try and catch itself as it dips into the ~500rpm area, but then seems to close the IACV again and it just dies (or floods... haven't checked)

When I walk the throttle down to near idle RPMs it can usually catch itself, but while it's hitting the proper idle, it's rough and shaky. The car doesn't like it and then brings the idle back up into the 1300 range before trying to walk itself back down. Then it gets into some rev matches.
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