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Old 05-09-2018, 07:49 PM   #1
jayden_schef
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Default Kjet to lh2.4

Trying to get lh2.4 to work in kjet 240. Iíve read tons of forums on tb and still canít seem to figure it out. Ecu and ezk have power when ignition is on and while cranking, grounds are good as well. Coil and power stage are powered up with switched 12v and getting power while cranking. When I turn ignition to on position I hear fuel pump turn on then shut off after a second or two. Iíve checked self diagnosis pin 2 and 6 come back with 1-1-1, and Iíve done injector test from self diagnosis and injectors works. Although while cranking injectors donít seem to be firing, there is no spark, or fuel pressure. CPS seems to have good resistance and is getting power. Any suggestions?
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Old 05-09-2018, 09:40 PM   #2
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It all starts with the CPS sensing the missing tooth region during cranking. Until then, the ECU doesn't know when to fire the injectors nor when to fire the spark. How far away from the toothed flywheel/flexplate is the tip of your CPS sensor? Got a picture of the CPS mount on the KJet engine?

Last edited by bobxyz; 05-09-2018 at 09:51 PM.. Reason: typo
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Old 05-09-2018, 09:47 PM   #3
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Seems like you have your bases covered.
Check the CPS plug and make sure the pins haven't pushed out, and for wires that are cracked.
Have you tried a different set of ECUs? Bad LH or EZK have definitely caused issues before.
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Old 05-09-2018, 11:35 PM   #4
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It is a 92 block so the crank position sensor is in the stock location so it should be picking up the teeth. And the missing teeth were placed in stater hole when in TDC. I have checked all pins and wires for cracks. I pulled motor harness and modules out of a running car about a year ago. Haven’t tried diffent ecu or ezk though.
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Old 05-10-2018, 12:04 PM   #5
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Since you already know you have no spark I would check at the power stage and see if you have the pulsing signal. I think it is pin 2? Whatever pin comes from the EZK to switch it. If that isn't switching and you know the wiring is good. Then either the engine speed sensor is bad or the EZK box is bad. Make sure you are getting power switched on with the fuel pump relay. The system part of the relay turns on the spark system.
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Old 05-10-2018, 06:42 PM   #6
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Since you already know you have no spark I would check at the power stage and see if you have the pulsing signal. I think it is pin 2? Whatever pin comes from the EZK to switch it. If that isn't switching and you know the wiring is good. Then either the engine speed sensor is bad or the EZK box is bad. Make sure you are getting power switched on with the fuel pump relay. The system part of the relay turns on the spark system.
Checked power stage signal and it is not pulsing, it stays at .1v with ignition on and while cranking moves up to .15v and stays there. I’ve gone over my wiring a few times and can not find any thing wrong with it. So it must be ezk or crank sensor? Also pulled the cover off my fuel pump relay to see, both sides click over with ignition on then one side of the relay clicks off after a second or two, simultaneously to the fuel pumps turning on and off, and while cranking that side of the relay stays off while other side stays on. Is this correct?

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Old 05-10-2018, 06:48 PM   #7
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The second side of the relay should be on (and the pumps running) as soon as an RPM signal is picked up by the ECU.
Looks like that is not happening.
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Old 05-10-2018, 06:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by culberro View Post
The second side of the relay should be on (and the pumps running) as soon as an RPM signal is picked up by the ECU.
Looks like that is not happening.
Okay, could crank sensor be bad even if itís reading the proper resistance, or is it likely that problem is not the crank sensor itself but somewhere else?
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Old 05-10-2018, 08:14 PM   #9
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CPS ohms between pin 1 and 2 is 175ohms and voltage between those pins at 1v with ignition on, and then drops down around .7v while cranking.
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Old 05-10-2018, 08:44 PM   #10
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I checked an unconnected CPS and it measures 178ohms, so yours sounds OK.

There's a diagnostic EZK mode that should flash a certain pattern if it senses a good CPS signal during cranking. See Bentley 280-4 step 4. I don't have LH installed so I've never tried this.

Does your EZK show any diagnostic codes after trying to start (before turning the ignition switch off)?
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Old 05-10-2018, 09:36 PM   #11
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Quote:
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I checked an unconnected CPS and it measures 178ohms, so yours sounds OK.

There's a diagnostic EZK mode that should flash a certain pattern if it senses a good CPS signal during cranking. See Bentley 280-4 step 4. I don't have LH installed so I've never tried this.

Does your EZK show any diagnostic codes after trying to start (before turning the ignition switch off)?
If I did diagnostic for the CPS right, the light continued to flash while cranking and did not turn off and come back with a code. Meaning its not picking up a signal right? Meaning a bad CPS?

Ezk shows 1-1-1 meaning everything is okay. (After cranking and befor tuning ignition switch off)
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Old 05-10-2018, 10:08 PM   #12
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Hmmm.... The CPS resistance seems OK, and the sensor itself is just a coil of wire around an iron core plus a magnet, so not much to go wrong. Since you were measuring voltage at the sensor, it must be wired to something, so no completely broken wires. Getting diag LEDs to blink means that EZK is getting power and at least somewhat working.

Did you install the engine+tranny as a pair, or could the CPS bracket have been bent during re-assembly? Hold a camera in there and take a picture.

A different CPS or a different EZK box seems like a reasonable next step to me. Maybe give it a day here and see if there's any other suggestions?
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Old 05-11-2018, 01:28 AM   #13
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I installed the engine and tranny separately so it’s possible it got bent. I’ll have to take a look at that. And if that’s not the case then try a new CPS then EZK if that doesn’t work.

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Old 05-11-2018, 04:36 AM   #14
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I'm pretty sure I had to run everything, coil, power stage, ezk and lh2.2 off of the blue wire, it seemed to be the only thing hot while cranking.
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Old 05-11-2018, 10:08 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VB242 View Post
I'm pretty sure I had to run everything, coil, power stage, ezk and lh2.2 off of the blue wire, it seemed to be the only thing hot while cranking.
Well my ecu seems to be getting power while cranking, I have it connected to one of the switched 12v wires at the old fuel pump relay. Are you talking about the original blue wire that goes to the coil?
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Old 05-11-2018, 09:10 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayden_schef View Post
Well my ecu seems to be getting power while cranking, I have it connected to one of the switched 12v wires at the old fuel pump relay. Are you talking about the original blue wire that goes to the coil?
Yes I have it operating a relay to power all that stuff.
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Old 05-11-2018, 11:14 PM   #17
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Replaced cps with a brand new one tonight this changed nothing. Bracket seems to be straight and like it should pick up the teeth fine. Any other suggestions? Is the ezk bad? Is there a way to check this?
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Old 05-11-2018, 11:18 PM   #18
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Also both the ezk and ecu are chipped. I’m not sure if something could go wrong there. Also checked the pins and everything is getting the right voltage and ground besides rpm voltage.

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Old 05-13-2018, 06:52 PM   #19
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If you know the crank sensor is good and wiring to the amplifier and elsewhere is good. Then substitute another ezk box is the next step. I've had fails. Not often but it happens.
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Old 05-13-2018, 07:45 PM   #20
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What injectors? When you do the LH 24 dish command, can you hear the injectors?
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Old 05-13-2018, 07:51 PM   #21
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Sorry to hear that it's still not working. One last thing to try before swapping EZKs is to unplug the EZK and measure the CPS resistance at the EZK connector (engine off key off). Looking at the EZK connector with the cable on the left, the top row left-to-right is pins 1-13, and the bottom row l-to-r is 14-25. Pin 10 goes to CPS-1 VR-, pin 23 to CPS-2 VR+, pin 11 to CPS-3 shield. From your earlier measurements, resistance across pins 10 and 23 should be ~175ohms. If you then unplug the CPS, resistance across EZK pins 10 and 23 should be no connection even on 1Meg ohm scale.
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Old 05-13-2018, 07:58 PM   #22
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How about the ignition switch? I had the same type problem on 2 other swaps. Had current cranking but not on run.
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Old 05-13-2018, 08:54 PM   #23
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Quote:
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Sorry to hear that it's still not working. One last thing to try before swapping EZKs is to unplug the EZK and measure the CPS resistance at the EZK connector (engine off key off). Looking at the EZK connector with the cable on the left, the top row left-to-right is pins 1-13, and the bottom row l-to-r is 14-25. Pin 10 goes to CPS-1 VR-, pin 23 to CPS-2 VR+, pin 11 to CPS-3 shield. From your earlier measurements, resistance across pins 10 and 23 should be ~175ohms. If you then unplug the CPS, resistance across EZK pins 10 and 23 should be no connection even on 1Meg ohm scale.
Okay so I just did this test and somethings going on. Earlier test I measured right at the sensor and not at ezk connector. When I measure at the ezk plug Im getting a resistance of Zero ohms between pin 10 and pin 23 with sensor plugged in. And no change when sensor unplugged. This must indicate a short somewhere?

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Old 05-13-2018, 09:28 PM   #24
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Turns out I’m an idiot and had the Tbs connector plugged into the rpm sensor and the rpm sensor plugged into the tbs.. now let’s see if this thing will start.
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Old 05-13-2018, 10:12 PM   #25
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So switched plugs and started right up. It’s not idling well goes to 1k then goes up to 3k and back down to 1k and keeps doing this. I don’t have speedo sensor hooked up but i do have idle control valve hooked up and seems to be working. And don’t seem to see any vacuum leaks.

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