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Old 05-16-2018, 10:07 AM   #1
billkaz
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Default 240 Manual Swap-Firewall plate question

Question about swapping the firewall plate for a 240 manual swap.

How has everyone handled the steering column portion of the swap?
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Old 05-16-2018, 10:27 AM   #2
oldschoolvolvo
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Why does the firewall plate need to be changed for a 240 manual swap?
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Old 05-16-2018, 10:53 AM   #3
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I handled it by not swapping it, and drilling a hole for my clutch cable.
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Old 05-16-2018, 01:50 PM   #4
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Old 05-16-2018, 02:25 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EivlEvo View Post
I handled it by not swapping it, and drilling a hole for my clutch cable.
Me too. Ain't NOBODY got time fo dat.

Well, maybe if you were going to do an OMGSOJDM LHD/RHD swap.

One little bitty pilot hole, then a bit of hogging out with a cone bit until it was big enough.

I didn't even swap the whole pedal bracket, I just cut off the outer piece and bolted that in to support the outer edge of the clutch pedal - the middle part of the auto pedal bracket had all the holes in the right places. Also swapped the brake pedal.
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Old 05-16-2018, 02:29 PM   #6
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Yeah, just drill it. a 9/16" bit or a unibit works, and you can get a drill up under the dash. As long as you get the hole in the ballpark, it'll work fine.
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Old 05-16-2018, 04:52 PM   #7
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I drilled mine engine bay side. My "ballpark" was a little bigger than it needed to be, which was extremely convenient because the SECOND hole I made was only really able to be like 10% closer lol... it works though.
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Old 05-16-2018, 05:23 PM   #8
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unibit in engine bay using a 90 degree drive adapter on a drill
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Old 05-16-2018, 09:51 PM   #9
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All y'all extra fancy. Hand crank and extensions. Just kidding. I attacked some of the holes from the inside and some from the outside. Which ever I thought I had the most control even if it was at quite an angle. Not to close is close enough in this case.
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Old 05-16-2018, 10:05 PM   #10
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another +1 for drilling the panel. I went with the gymnastics method and did it under the dash after the old pedal-box was removed
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