240 flat undertray examples

[Stiggy Pop]

Anyone want to nudge me towards a material choice? I had thought of Kydex initially mostly because of impact resistance and I've read that it thermoforms very well, so I was hoping that might mean I can make curves/bends with a heat gun and forms or something. Material thickness... 1/8"?

For front end ducting (flow panels for heat exchangers basically) I figure I'll use thin aluminum sheet and a brake, but I think the larger panels would be easier/quieter/nice to work with in Kydex/ABS/XDPE.

Originally Posted by Harlard

If you plan on doing a true front mount intercooler, I'm interested in that too, lol

yeah I'll let you guys know. I have to pull the trigger on a core and then look at packaging. I've got a friend lined up to help with overthinking end tank design, he does heat exchanger design at work so hoping he can help me make something with real engineering behind it... like... with math and stuff. How we'll end up producing it I'm not sure yet.

Last year I walked by a huge rack of wiggins clamps in the shop and I was like who can I make friends with in this department

[Harlard]

Speaking of wiggins clamps, Epman stuff is actually good and 1/4 the price of the known scumbags. Looking at placing a big-ish order soon.

[Stiggy Pop]

Originally Posted by Harlard

Speaking of wiggins clamps, Epman stuff is actually good and 1/4 the price of the known scumbags. Looking at placing a big-ish order soon.

Guys at work told me I'm crazy for wanting them; they're a regular source of issues on air handling systems because they get mangled/installed improperly etc., their misalignment tolerance is lower. There's a good argument for a coupler and good clamps being a more reliable solution but... BLANG BLANG.

Same can be said for multi-pin bulkhead connectors in engine harnesses. Race cars have them, we all want them, I want them... but you know what's more reliable then 35 connectors in a backshell? Zero connectors in a grommet. But... BLANG BLANG

all stated by the man asking about dubiously functional race car trays for his car designed with a speed square

[Lankku]

Years ago I thought of making a flat undertray but then gave up. It has surfaced on my mind every now and then. Lately have thought of making just two simpel panels before the rear axle. That way the air won't go over the axle and be trapped in front of the tank. With that little needed I'd use aluminium panels.

Heat from the front muffler and exhaust would require heat shields to the floor. My rear muffler is so big that I don't think much is needed under that.

3.5" fits over the axle, that's what I made for the "B6284T". Only place to tap some is the right side spare wheel tub but no need to touch the bottom seam. Axle won't touch even when (almost)bottoming out on bumps with heavier loads. It's been there now a bit over 5 years.

When it was new and before a homemade(better) muffler:

[Jack]

Well hell looks like I was wrong about going over axle

[Cwazywazy]

My 3" clears over the axle fine but it rubs on the triangle thingy next to the gas tank which is annoying.

[Duder]

I'm confused. This is a turbobricks thread that's actually talking about modifying a Volvo for higher performance... whaaaaat?

[Jack]

use aluminum

not 240 but I did this on my 850... Note the horn relocation (#1 mod on VS back in the day)
shaved all the "flashing" thats pretty bad out of the factory
before.


after
most important thing on this is that I curved the plate down few inches. Getting it powdercoated next

Originally Posted by Duder

I'm confused. This is a turbobricks thread that's actually talking about modifying a Volvo for higher performance... whaaaaat?

handful of those out of ~330k threads. Things are starting to turn around
Sometimes you can’t fix it all with zip ties

[Redwood Chair]

Restore it to stock.

Originally Posted by Duder

I'm confused. This is a turbobricks thread that's actually talking about modifying a Volvo for higher performance... whaaaaat?

Feel better now?

[Stiggy Pop]

Originally Posted by Duder

I'm confused. This is a turbobricks thread that's actually talking about modifying a Volvo for higher performance... whaaaaat?

I know, I feel like I'm going back to my roots . In the warm months I tend to just "do", but I'm up for a little february bench racing!

Originally Posted by Jack

use aluminum

Why though? I'm gonna need a more compelling argument than the nike slogan. I plan to for the front ducting (around HX's, air intake, potentially provisioning for brake ducting), but for the largely flat panels running down the floors I'm not sure I want to. It's sharp, it's not cheap, and I also imagine it would be loud as hell?

Still expect I'll let you all down and leave the exhaust as-is. I'm looking at IC cores, radiators, oil coolers, diffs, steering racks, tires, brakes... list is getting full. Wait, I drove the car about 100 miles last year what am I doing?

The first price I pulled up for a 4x8' sheet of 1/8" Kydex was ~$280... ouch. Will have to call around local and start making some cost based decisions.

I still like the idea of dzus fasteners for quick removal, trying to think out how to make mounts. Little spacer blocks strategically placed around the floor? Or maybe strips so it's more supported? I guess I have to get the SAABs through the garage and actually look at the car to make those decisions

Originally Posted by Redwood Chair

Restore it to stock.

I cut the strut towers for camber plate clearance, it's totaled!!

[Redwood Chair]

Originally Posted by Stiggy Pop

I cut the strut towers for camber plate clearance, it's totaled!!

Indeed, the civilians will never pay anything for a molested car and the 'enthusiasts' are all busy pretending that they don't have any money.

[Jack]

Because it’s cheap - at scrap yards- light and strong enough, can be shaped and welded on

not any louder than the rest of the car - you know made of steel

[Stiggy Pop]

Originally Posted by Jack

Because it’s cheap - at scrap yards- light and strong enough, can be shaped and welded on

The ability to weld it raises a good point (although I don't have a TIG so it's not particularly convenient) - some of the materials I'm looking at don't like to be bonded. I know HDPE can't, or is a huge pain, to try and glue. I have plastic welded a fair amount of HDPE with varying success.

Originally Posted by Jack

not any louder than the rest of the car - you know made of steel

ehh idk I think we'll have diverging opinions on this one. Throw a rock at the side of a tin barn and then again at the side of a fiberglass boat and one of them is going to be a lot louder. Also keep in mind panels would be largely floating over no support, so the aluminum turns into a drum. I actually thought a plastic might quiet the car down; with no undercoating and sticky tires I hear all of the sand and rocks that hit it.

Originally Posted by Redwood Chair

Indeed, the civilians will never pay anything for a molested car and the 'enthusiasts' are all busy pretending that they don't have any money.

Don't worry it's a New England lifer that needs it's second set of rocker panels anyways. I've thought forever I'll eventually pull a dry shell over from your side of the world... probably should have done that 5+ years ago before the v8 swap crowd ruined that market.

[Jack]

“Diverging opinions” I’m going to have to use that one
Why do you have so much experience throwing rocks at stuff ?????


This guy used coroplast, seems to have turned out good for just throwing it on.
https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthre...nder-4093.html

Even for prototyping it should work better than cardboard

[122power]

I just use old election campaign signs, lol
Hmm the tank is a vertical air wall under there now that you guys pointed that out. What about a 45 degree guard deflector up towards the tunnel above axle? So it helps to let the air flow vs hitting the tank and foiling around up in there. Not as good as a flat panel though.

[Duder]

Originally Posted by Jack

This guy used coroplast, seems to have turned out good for just throwing it on.
https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthre...nder-4093.html

Even for prototyping it should work better than cardboard

Originally Posted by 122power

I just use old election campaign signs, lol

Yes! This! I came back to say that we use coroplast in Lemons. Where do we get large flat sheets of coroplast you ask? From election signs, like Luke says.

You have to wait until just after an election and then drive around in a large vehicle with some ziptie cutters and quick feet. My team scored a few panels that were like 6' x 10' a couple years ago.

[122power]

I learned that from you guys! Well always wanted to that but just did it this year lol. No one cares after its over so its free game. Zip ties yes. Ones around here even used wire!

[Duder]

Originally Posted by 122power

I learned that from you guys! Well always wanted to that but just did it this year lol. No one cares after its over so its free game. Zip ties yes. Ones around here even used wire!

We learned it from Dave Coleman. The Eyesore Miata is made out of about 50% coroplast, with another 45% being cardboard. Gotta give credit where credit is due.

[Jussi Alanko]

Chek out at youtube, there is a guy, Julian Edgar, he knows a lots of aerodynamics!