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Old 01-22-2021, 02:26 PM   #26
VolvoScout
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It looks like it sits above the bearing and below the rubber gasket.
Any idea how to safely remove it?

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 01-22-2021, 02:36 PM   #27
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There is no rubber gasket. That's the old seal. Pry it out with a large screwdriver.
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Old 01-22-2021, 02:42 PM   #28
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Really?
They don't look to be the same size. (This seal is from the IPD Overdrive kit)
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 01-22-2021, 02:52 PM   #29
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They sent you the wrong seal.

IPD sells 2 different seals for J style OD's.

https://www.ipdusa.com/catalog.asp?n...hwords=1232013
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Old 02-07-2021, 05:04 PM   #30
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I cant seem to get the front and rear overdrive housings to sit flush; any tips?
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Old 02-07-2021, 07:02 PM   #31
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I assume the gears are meshed properly. If so, the clutch springs need to be compressed to bring the housings together. You should be able to get a couple of nuts started, 1 on either side of the OD. Don't worry about the lock washers right now. Tighten each one a little at a time until the 2 halves meet. Install the lock washers and nuts on the lower studs and the copper washers and nuts on the top 2. Don't forget to use thread sealer on the top 2 studs as well. Now go back and install lock washers under the first 2 nuts.

You're supposed to have a dummy shaft installed in the OD to align the splines as you tighten the nuts. A spare main shaft works great if you have one.
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Old 02-08-2021, 10:55 AM   #32
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Thanks for the tips, got the housings together.
Mine had the nylon washers instead of the copper washers (the IPD kit also only had the Nylon replacements)
I didn't have any thread sealer, should I go back and apply some?
Without the dummy shaft, could something be misaligned once everything is together or is that just to make it easier while securing the housings together?
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Old 02-08-2021, 01:24 PM   #33
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I don't like the nylon seals because they're a PITA to remove. If the housing doesn't have a good chamfer the seals won't get forced between the housing and stud and cause a leak. You shouldn't need thread sealer if the nylon seals are installed properly.

There a 2 sets of splines that need to be aligned in order to get the OD back on the main shaft. You can still align them by prying up on the link bars with a pair of large screwdrivers and inserting the dummy shaft while twisting until it bottoms. It helps to have 2 people.
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Old 02-08-2021, 01:51 PM   #34
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What/where are the link bars?

I used the twisting method and managed to get the Overdrive on the shaft but it's still about .5-.75" away from flush; can't seem to push it any farther at the moment.

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 02-08-2021, 02:12 PM   #35
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The link bars are the thick rectangular bars that the clutch carrier studs are attached to. Prying up on them allows the planetary gears to rotate. You would need another main shaft to align the splines. It can't be done on the transmission.

If you got it on this far you may be able to tap it on the rest of the way. Use a soft hammer (brass or lead) and try tapping it on. Make sure the eccentric is engaged with the pump before tapping.
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Old 02-09-2021, 11:27 PM   #36
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I got the overdrive back on the car.

Although, it seems I have a minor leak from the rear oil seal I installed.

Do I have to fully disassemble the overdrive again to replace the seal, or can I just remove the shaft flange, pop out the old seal and replace? (overdrive off the car, of course)
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Old 02-10-2021, 01:43 AM   #37
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You don't need to disassemble the OD to change the seal. With the drive shaft out of the way there should be enough room to remove the flange and change the seal without pulling the OD.

Are you sure the leak is coming from the rear seal?
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Old 02-10-2021, 02:15 AM   #38
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How would I secure the flange to undo the screw while still under the car?
It was difficult enough to secure it on my bench vice.

There was a small bit of oil on the inside rim of the seal.
I did slightly dent part of the seal while installing it into the OD, but I didn't think it was too significant.

It's sitting overnight with a towel underneath to see if it's leaking.
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Old 02-10-2021, 02:23 AM   #39
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You can usually blast the nut off with an air gun. Put the trans in gear to keep the flange from spinning or just hold it with a gloved hand.

If you don't have an air gun you'll need a counter hold tool. This is the Volvo tool for holding drive shaft flanges.

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Old 02-10-2021, 02:30 AM   #40
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I might be able to borrow one from a friend.

Do you have the part number to the Volvo counter-hold?
Is it still available?
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Old 02-10-2021, 01:29 PM   #41
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Originally, there were 2 different tools. One for large flange and one for small, 9992837 & 9992854 respectively. They were updated to the tool pictured above, 9995149.

9995149 is NLA but 9992837 (which only fits the large flange) is still available for ~$75. With shipping and handling it's almost $94.

I found a used one on eBay for $51 with free shipping.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-Speci...4383.l4275.c10
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Old 02-10-2021, 03:54 PM   #42
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I went ahead and ordered it.

How exactly does it work?
I assume the bolts slot into the holes on the flange?
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Old 02-10-2021, 04:14 PM   #43
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Yeah, the bolts go into the holes in the flange. It looks like the bolts it comes with aren't original and are longer than necessary.

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Old 02-12-2021, 01:15 PM   #44
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Check all the wiring under the car as well, and where it runs from the interior of the car to the trans tunnel. I had a weird intermittent issue that turned out to be an worn exposed wire that would short, kicking it out of OD.
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